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Table of contents

1. Fun Parlour 63 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.020701, -30.019853

Unique Features And Strengths:© (tholmes)

A small but fun sandstone cliff near Coffs Harbour, NSW. Most of the routes are in the 15-20 grade range.

Description:© (tholmes)

The 'Fun Parlour' is not a big cliff, being only 8 to 10 meters high. But the lines, cracks and walls are a lot of fun. The cliff is situated just out of 'Glenreagh', which is approximately half way (half an hour's drive) from Grafton and Coffs Harbour on the Orara Way.

Being a NW facing cliff summers are generally too hot for climbing at this crag, however winters days can be surprisingly warm and pleasant. After a hot day of climbing it is worth stopping at Middle Creek (500m towards Glenreagh) where a short hike leads to beautiful swimming holes.

Approach:© (tholmes)

About the middle of 'Glenreagh' Sherwood Creek Rd heads off across a bridge spanning the Orara river. Set your odometer to zero here. Follow this across the railway line, then hard left to Middle Creek (bridge at 5km). The parking for 'Fun Parlour' is a small, cleared, roadside area 500m past the bridge over Middle Creek on the Southern (right) side of the road (5.5km from turn off at Glenreagh). The crag is not visible from the road. The trail leaves the road about 10m up the hill from the parking lot. Follow a vague trail diagonally up and generally left for about 150m. When you reach the crag you are near the left hand side with the most obvious feature being the prominent, bolted roof Room With A View. Climbs are listed from left to right as you face the cliff.

Where To Stay:© (tholmes)

The nearest bush camping is at a nearby climbing area called Wonderland. For all other levels of accomodation, it is about a 45 minute drive back into Coffs Harbour or Woolgoolga which offers everything from caravan parks and backpackers hostels to five star resorts.

Ethic: inherited from Coffs Harbour

Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.

History:© (tholmes)

The Fun Parlour was founded by a Nymboida River Whitewater Rafting Guide, Larry Dixon some time in the early eighties. In the summer of 1984, during a moment of weakness, his brother Neil 'Dicko' Dixon agreed to see what climbing was all about and tied onto the end of the rope. They put up three routes that year, the best being Cold Tap (14), nearly melted in the process and then rushed back to the Golden Dog for some life-saving beers.

The following year, Dicko found that rock climbing interfered too much with his social life. As a result, another River Guide, Ian Allen, was talked into visiting the cliff. The result was two more new routes by Dixon, the best being Whip It (15).

The first wall route, Chicken Heroes (18) by Al Stephens from Armidale went up in 1986 along with 7 other crack routes.

The true potential of the Fun Parlour began to dawn on Dixon and Stephens in 1987 when they bolted the classic Funnel Web (16) by Dixon and Long Tall Texan (21) by Stephens. A total of eight new routes went up that year. Other visiting climbers that year were Richard Thomas (the long, tall Texan) and Mark Spence from Coffs Harbour.

The year of the Bosch, 1988, resulted in five beautiful routes, the best being the Ramones inspired Planet Earth (19) by Dixon and Quasimodo (18) by Stephens. Other visiting climbers involved int the first ascents were Graham Stewart from Armidale, Wade (Image Man) Fairly and Richard Falls from Tamworth.

1989 saw many visitors come and go and 16 superb routes being put up. Gavin (Coke) Dean, a climbing and abseiling instructor from Coffs got very serious about new routes and, with a variety of seconders, put up 12 new ones (nothing compared to what he did at Wonderland later), the best being The Raw (21) and the infamous, almost impossible for some, Rum and Coke (22). Other visitors during the winter were Niel Crabb and Mark Colyvan from Armidale, Karl Shultz from downtown Glenreagh and Davey and Tim Wood from Ulong.

In 1990 Larry Dixon became more involved in developing his Whitewater Rafting Business and temporarily retired from climbing. Dean, with Stephens and Wayne Anderson, at various times, were involved in 14 of the 15 new routes put up during the year. The best was Walt Disney's Picking Strawberries (23) by Dean (one of the hardest at Fun Parlour). Other climbers involved in the first ascents were Tim (Tadpole) Balla, Patrick Thompson, Toldy Thompson and Tim Loughlin.

In 1991, Gavin Dean discovered Wonderland which became the focus of attention for development. Since then, only a few routes have been added to the crag although it always seems to attract a few climbers every year, especially those who are looking for moderate routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** You Can't Touch This

On a small buttress about 50m left of the main crag. Onto the wall and up through the right side of the roof. 2 bolts and a tree belay.

FA: W. Anderson, G. Dean, 1990

20Sport 8m, 2
2 * Rum And Coke

The first route on the main section of the cliff. A thin crack in a wall. Shoot up crack to horizontal break, then it's suddenly hard. 2 carrot bolt belay 2m back from cliff edge.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1989

22Sport 8m, 2
3 * Deceiving Decisions

Start on the block below the right leaning crack. Up crack then wall with small iron hand holds, wires low down then 3 BR's to the top.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1989

19Mixed 8m, 3
4 Swingin' Oldies

Just right of DECEIVING DECISIONS. Up short wall, thin moves to top, 3 carrot bolts.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1989

18Sport 8m, 3
5 Cosmic Energy

A blunt arete arete, 2 carrots and 2 carrot bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens,, 1989

20Sport 8m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Fantasy And Fiction

The short wall in an alcove, 1m right of COSMIC ENERGY. This moves up the short wall. 2 carrots and 1 bolt plus tree belay.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1989

18Sport 8m, 2
7 Phantom Cockroaches

In the same alcove as FANTASY AND FICTION, 2m right. Don't use the block on the right hand side, you cheat! 1 bolt and a large cam.

FA: G. Dean, L. Dixon, Dave ?, 1989

19Mixed 8m, 1
8 Son Of A Beach

A funky looking crack left of the big overhang (ROOM WITH A VIEW), up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top.

FA: A. Stephens, L. Dixon, G Stewart, 1987

16Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 ** Room With A View

The obvious roof just right of the approach trail. 4 BR's and a small cam down low. 2 BR's are next to each other at the start of the hard bit. Belay back on trees. Was originally graded 22 (in the days when climbing roofs was a new thing).

FA: A. Stephens, 1988

18Sport 8m, 4
10 Shady Retreat

Perfect on a hot sunny day. Up the wall just right of (and perpendicular to) ROOM WITH A VIEW. 3 bolts. Beautiful!

FA: G. Dean, T. Loughlin, P Thompson, 1989

17Sport 8m, 3
11 Steamer

One of the first routes done here. A wide corner rack, bridge and jam.

FA: L. Dixon, N. (Dicko) Dixon, 1984

17Trad 8m
12 Quasimodo

The black wall right of STEAMER.

FA: A. Stephens, L. Dixon, 1988

18Sport 8m, 3
13 ** Silver And Gold

The golden wall with 2 pieces of silver, right of QUASIMODO. Technical and strenuous. In contrast to Room With A View (also by Stephens) which was downgraded, this route was originally graded 22 and is now considered by some to be closer to 24.

FA: A. Stephens, 1989

23Sport 8m, 2
14 Ballroom Blitz

"Ready Steve, alright fellas, lets go......". The narrow wall 1m right of SILVER AND GOLD. Large Friend and 1 bolt. A little contrived, don't bridge off the right hand wall. Techno and streno. (Sorry Ralph!)

FA: A. Stephens, M. Colyvan, L. Dixon, N. Crabb, 1988

19Mixed 8m, 1
15 Cable Layer

The crack in the corner just right of BALLROOM BLITZ. Named after the feeling you get just after you put on your harness. Bridge and jam.

FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens, 1988

12Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 * Planet Earth

A classic. The wall right of CABLE LAYER. Another Ramones inspired route. Large cam in cave and 2 bolts.

FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens, 1988

19Mixed 8m, 2
17 Wasp

The next crack right of PLANET EARTH. A flared crack in a steep wall, hard jamming to top.

FA: L. Dixon, M. Spence, 1988

16Trad 8m
18 ** (Unknown 1) 20Sport 8m
19 Life's A Beach

A steep jam crack, better than it looks.

FA: A. Stephens, L. Dixon, 1987

17Trad 8m
20 Sandy Sandshoes

Great little short wall, out of the sun. Good small holds, pumpy. 2 bolts and a cam.

FA: G. Dean, L. Dixon, 1989

18Sport 8m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 Like A Virgin

The corner right of SANDY SANDSHOES. Neil's first route! Up onto the step then bridge up corner.

FA: N. Crabb, A. Stephens, 1988

11Trad 8m
22 Powered By Bosch

1.5 metres left of 'Chicken Heros'. Up easy slab to bolt with fixed hanger. An interesting sequence leads past this then pad on up to double bolt belay.

FA: D. Carter, A. Donoghue, 1994

18Sport 8m, 2
23 Chicken Heroes

A juggy looking wall with poor pro up high. A large cam about half height, a 1/2 inch Hero loop over the chicken head and a small wire for pro.

FA: A. Stephens, L. Dixon, 1986

18Trad 8m
24 Giblets

A crack with a cave near the top. The first rack right of CHICKEN HEROES. Hard start then easier climbing to top.

FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens, R. Thomas, 1986

16Trad 8m
25 Obscure Route

Up trad crack and tend right to carrot bolt on arete.

FA: Unknown

20Mixed 8m, 1
26 Rags To Riches

The wall right of GIBLETS. Up steepening wall. 3 bolts and trad belay. Superb.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, L. Dixon, 1990

20Sport 8m, 3
27 * Flat Batteries

Totally excellent. A wall in a slight alcove right of RAGS TO RICHES. Up the wall with a bulge, 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay. Nice one Wayne!

FA: W. Anderson, K. Bennett, G. Dean, 1990

21Sport 8m, 3
28 * Light And Easy

Not so easy if you're not light! Between FLAT BATTERIES and the "Shower Recess" (I think!). A steep wall with a thin crack near the top. 4 bolts to a 2 bolt belay. Just great!

FA: G. Dean, P. Thompson, T. Loughlin, T. Thompson, 1989

20Sport 8m, 4
29 * Steamy Windows

This route and the next half dozen are located around the "Shower Recess" (an obvious, square alcove).

5m left of the "Shower Recess". Tricky off the ground. Up through bulge past a bolt to an overhanging wall finish. 3 bolts and a 2 bolt belay.

FA: A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1990

19Sport 8m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
30 Don't Drop The Soap

A couple of metres right of STEAMY WINDOWS. A little contrived but an excellent route if you keep over to the left. Steep and juggy to start, leading to a flake and easy finish. 1 bolt plus small trad gear to tree belay.

FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens, 1990

17Mixed 8m, 1
31 Luke Warm

The left hand arete of the "Shower Recess". Up the arete then easily to top. A great beginners' route.

FA: L. Dixon, M. Spence, 1986

10Trad 8m
32 Cold Tap

The left hand corner of the "Shower Recess". Up the corner with jugs to tree belay. The first good route climbed at the Fun Parlour (and possibly all of the Coffs area).

FA: L. Dixon, N. (Dicko) Dixon, 1984

14Trad 8m
33 * Hot Tap

The right hand corner of the "Shower Recess" Short but much harder than it looks. Sustained.

FA: L. Dixon R. Thomas, A. Stephens, 1986

16Trad 8m
34 Just Add Water

The right arete of the "Shower Recess". Low angle arete with one bolt and trad gear. Cruise up and right on jugs to top to a double bolt belay.

FA: D. Carter, A. Donoghue, 1994

13Mixed 8m, 1
35 Where's My Burrito

The face 3m right of the 'Shower Recess'. Up to horizontal break (cam) then up steep wall past one or two bolts to a double bolt belay.

FA: D.Carter, A. Donoghue, 1994

18Mixed 8m, 1
36 Short And Sweet

The right side of the wall to the right of the "Shower Recess". Beautiful! Do it! Up bulging wall to top. 2 bolts.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1989

22Mixed 8m, 2
37 Snowman

One of the first routs at this cliff by the Dodgy Brothers. A fist sized crack in a short wall. Strait up. Right of SHORT AND SWEET.

FA: L. (Pieman) Dixon, N. (Dicko) Dixon, 1984

8Trad 8m
38 Confidence

A very short wall between SNOWMAN and WOMAN. Nice moves.

FA: G. Stewart A. Stephens, L. Dixon, 1987

12Trad 8m
39 Woman

A waste of space. No .. not women .. just this route. A very short crack. More of a quick way to the top of the cliff.

FA: A. Stephens, L. Dixon, 1986

8Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
40 * Walt Disney's Picking Strawberries

One of the hardest routes at the crag. The obvious roof right of CONFIDENCE. A short steep wall, then muscle round the roof, then easier to tree belay. 2 bolts. It's great!

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1990

23Sport 8m, 2
41 Lambada

2m right of WALT DISNEY'S PICKING STRAWBERRIES. A crack then wall. Small cams and 2 bolts. Be gentle on the footholds up high. Quite nice.

FA: A Stephens, G. Dean, 1990

17Mixed 8m, 2
42 Summer

his route and the next two go up the wall with the large tree close to the wall. Technical, strenuous and it wanders around a little bit - don't bridge off the tree you cheat! Originally reported to have 3 or 4 bolts but may be missing the last one (?)

FA: A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1990

22Sport 8m, 3
43 * Treeology

Right of SUMMER. A crack in a steep wall next to the big Blackbutt tree. Natural pro. Strenuous start, scary in the middle and a tricky finish. A lot of fun.

FA: A Stephens, L. Dixon, 1986

17Trad 10m
44 * Intreeg

Great fun. Superb moves. A couple of metres right of TREEOLOGY. Swing up the wall. 2 bolts and some natural pro.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1990

20Mixed 10m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
45 * The Golden Dog

An excellent climb, named after the friendly Glenreagh Pub. The Pub burnt down during winter 1991 but was rebuilt. The classic Golden Dog statue was added in 2011. A good long route. The left leaning, diagonal crack to the cave then up the wider crack to top. Tree belay.

FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens, G. Stewart, 1987

17Trad 10m
46 * Long Tall Texan

Start as for THE GOLDEN DOG, into the cave then move right from the cave and up the steep wall past 2 bolts and trad gear. Strenuous and sustained. Tree belay.

FA: A. Stephens, G. Stewart, L. Dixon, 1987

21Mixed 10m, 2
47 Whip It

Whip it ... Whip it GOOD! This is good. The first crack on the next wall. A hand to fist crack, with crux near the top.

FA: L. Dixon, I. Allen, 1985

15Trad 8m
48 * The Raw

One of the BEST on the cliff... A definite must do! A long, steep, slightly overhanging wall perpendicular to the main crag. Very sustained. 4 bolts. Originally had a double bolt belay but apparently someone has chopped them (?). Either rap off the dodgy tree or walk down.

FA: G. Dean, P. Thompson, 1989

21Sport 10m, 4
49 And The Cooked

The wall/arete right of THE RAW. It'll keep you guessing. 1 bolt plus trad gear.

FA: W. Anderson, G. Dean, 1989

17Mixed 10m, 1
50 Sandman

The next corner right of AND THE COOKED. A corner with a jam crack near the top, bridging, layaways and jams, it's got it all.

FA: A. Stephens, W. (Image man) Fairly, R. Falls, L. Dixon, 1987

16Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
51 Funnel Web

One of the best at this grade. The first bolted route at Fun Parlour and the Coffs area. Start at the arete next to SANDMAN. Clip the first two bolts then move onto the face, 2 more bolts and a steep little wall to finish.

FA: L Dixon, A. Stephens, 1987

17Sport 10m, 4
52 Pus In Boots

This and the next route are on a short, orange section of the cliff with small roofs and caves. Imagine having pus in your boots! An overhanging arete then easy to top.

FA: T. (Tadpole) Balla, L. Dixon, 1989

14Trad 8m
53 Boot The Puss

2m right of PUS IN BOOTS. Up overhanging wall past crazy thread runner in roof, then cruise.

FA: L. Dixon, Davey, 1989

15Trad 8m
54 Shaky

The next corner right of BOOT THE PUSS. Every cliff needs a horrible climb. Up corner crack to cave, up wall to top.

FA: L. Dixon, I. Allen, 1985

12Trad 8m
55 Sandcastles

The original start on the right side of the arete is about 17. However, a better start is on the left side of the arete and is more in keeping with the grade of the rest of the climb - 14. Excellent value. Straight up the arete to top, natural pro.

FA: G Stewart. A. Stephens, L. Dixon, 1987

14Trad 8m
56 Bacon And Eggs

The next arete right of SAND CASTLES. All natural pro, take a full rack of small sizes. An intense arete that becomes an easier wall. 2 bolt belay. This one for the purist.

FA: G. Dean, W. Anderson, 1990

18Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
57 * Bubble And Squeak

The shaded wall right of BACON AND EGGS. One of the best on the cliff. Love it...Love it...Love it! Up the steep wall with horizontal breaks. 2 bolts and a cam to a 2 bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean, W. Anderson, 1990

20Mixed 8m, 2
58 Power And The Passion

Left of these little wonders is a large boulder that is about to roll down to the road and squash your car. It is called the "Gazebo". The two routes on the eastern side are out of the sun in the afternoon. There's an abseil chain at the top.

'Sometimes you've got to take the hardest line...'. This goes up the northern end, the first line you come to. Forget the passion, it's all power on this one. 2 bolts. Belay off a bolt and chains. Technical and sustained.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1990

21Sport 8m, 2
59 Gazebo

An access route. No pro. Better not to do it. On the easy side.

FA: G. Dean, 1990

9Trad 8m
60 Wedding Cake Island

2m left of POWER AND THE PASSION, the middle of the wall. Straight up past 2 bolts to chains. Nice on a hot afternoon.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1990

19Sport 8m, 2
61 I Don't Mind

Named in honor of the great Bob Geldoff. The wall/arete on the far side of the Gazebo that steepens near the top. Avoid the heat of the afternoon. Great.

FA: A. Stephens, G Dean, 1990

19Unknown 8m, 2
62 delete

.

19Sport 2
63 * delete 19Sport 2

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
8 Snowman Trad 8m
Woman Trad 8m
9 Gazebo Trad 8m
10 Luke Warm Trad 8m
11 Like A Virgin Trad 8m
12 Cable Layer Trad 8m
Confidence Trad 8m
Shaky Trad 8m
13 Just Add Water Mixed 8m, 1
14 Cold Tap Trad 8m
Pus In Boots Trad 8m
Sandcastles Trad 8m
15 Boot The Puss Trad 8m
Whip It Trad 8m
16 Giblets Trad 8m
* Hot Tap Trad 8m
Sandman Trad 8m
Son Of A Beach Trad 8m
Wasp Trad 8m
17 And The Cooked Mixed 10m, 1
Don't Drop The Soap Mixed 8m, 1
Funnel Web Sport 10m, 4
Lambada Mixed 8m, 2
Life's A Beach Trad 8m
Shady Retreat Sport 8m, 3
Steamer Trad 8m
* The Golden Dog Trad 10m
* Treeology Trad 10m
18 Bacon And Eggs Trad 8m
Chicken Heroes Trad 8m
Fantasy And Fiction Sport 8m, 2
Powered By Bosch Sport 8m, 2
Quasimodo Sport 8m, 3
** Room With A View Sport 8m, 4
Sandy Sandshoes Sport 8m, 2
Swingin' Oldies Sport 8m, 3
Where's My Burrito Mixed 8m, 1
19 Ballroom Blitz Mixed 8m, 1
* Deceiving Decisions Mixed 8m, 3
I Don't Mind Unknown 8m, 2
Phantom Cockroaches Mixed 8m, 1
* Planet Earth Mixed 8m, 2
* Steamy Windows Sport 8m, 3
Wedding Cake Island Sport 8m, 2
delete Sport 2
* delete Sport 2
20 ** (Unknown 1) Sport 8m
* Bubble And Squeak Mixed 8m, 2
Cosmic Energy Sport 8m, 2
* Intreeg Mixed 10m, 2
* Light And Easy Sport 8m, 4
Obscure Route Mixed 8m, 1
Rags To Riches Sport 8m, 3
** You Can't Touch This Sport 8m, 2
21 * Flat Batteries Sport 8m, 3
* Long Tall Texan Mixed 10m, 2
Power And The Passion Sport 8m, 2
* The Raw Sport 10m, 4
22 * Rum And Coke Sport 8m, 2
Short And Sweet Mixed 8m, 2
Summer Sport 8m, 3
23 ** Silver And Gold Sport 8m, 2
* Walt Disney's Picking Strawberries Sport 8m, 2