Showing all 38 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
19 | ★ Deceiving Decisions
Start on the block below the right leaning crack. Up crack then wall with small iron hand holds, wires low down then 3 BR's to the top. FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1989 | 8m, 3 | |||
19 | ★ Phantom Cockroaches
In the same alcove as FANTASY AND FICTION, 2m right. Don't use the block on the right hand side, you cheat! 1 bolt and a large cam. FA: G. Dean, L. Dixon & Dave ?, 1989 | 8m, 1 | |||
16 | ★ Son Of A Beach
A funky looking crack left of the big overhang (ROOM WITH A VIEW), up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top. FA: A. Stephens, L. Dixon & G Stewart, 1987 | 8m | |||
17 | Steamer
One of the first routes done here. A wide corner rack, bridge and jam. FA: L. Dixon & N. (Dicko) Dixon, 1984 | 8m | |||
19 | Ballroom Blitz
"Ready Steve, alright fellas, lets go......". The narrow wall 1m right of SILVER AND GOLD. Large Friend and 1 bolt. A little contrived, don't bridge off the right hand wall. Techno and streno. (Sorry Ralph!) FA: Al Stephens, M. Colyvan, L. Dixon & Neil Crabb, 1988 | 8m, 1 | |||
12 | Cable Layer
The crack in the corner just right of BALLROOM BLITZ. Named after the feeling you get just after you put on your harness. Bridge and jam. FA: L. Dixon & A. Stephens, 1988 | 8m | |||
19 | ★ Planet Earth
A classic. The wall right of CABLE LAYER. Another Ramones inspired route. Large cam in cave and 2 bolts. FA: L. Dixon & A. Stephens, 1988 | 8m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Wasp
The next crack right of PLANET EARTH. A flared crack in a steep wall, hard jamming to top. FA: L. Dixon & M. Spence, 1988 | 8m | |||
17 | Life's A Beach
A steep jam crack, better than it looks. FA: A. Stephens & L. Dixon, 1987 | 8m | |||
11 | Like A Virgin
The corner right of SANDY SANDSHOES. Neil's first route! Up onto the step then bridge up corner. FA: Neil Crabb & Al Stephens, 1988 | 8m | |||
18 | Chicken Heroes
A juggy looking wall with poor pro up high. A large cam about half height, a 1/2 inch Hero loop over the chicken head and a small wire for pro. FA: A. Stephens & L. Dixon, 1986 | 8m | |||
16 | Giblets
A crack with a cave near the top. The first rack right of CHICKEN HEROES. Hard start then easier climbing to top. FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens & R. Thomas, 1986 | 8m | |||
20 | ★★ Obscure Route
Up trad crack and tend right to carrot bolt on arete. FA: Unknown | 8m, 1 | |||
17 | ★ Don't Drop The Soap
A couple of metres right of STEAMY WINDOWS. A little contrived but an excellent route if you keep over to the left. Steep and juggy to start, leading to a flake and easy finish. 1 bolt plus small trad gear to tree belay. FA: L. Dixon & A. Stephens, 1990 | 8m, 1 | |||
10 | ★ Luke Warm
The left hand arete of the "Shower Recess". Up the arete then easily to top. A great beginners' route. FA: L. Dixon & M. Spence, 1986 | 8m | |||
14 | ★ Cold Tap
The left hand corner of the "Shower Recess". Up the corner with jugs to tree belay. The first good route climbed at the Fun Parlour (and possibly all of the Coffs area). FA: L. Dixon & N. (Dicko) Dixon, 1984 | 8m | |||
16 | ★ Hot Tap
The right hand corner of the "Shower Recess" Short but much harder than it looks. Sustained. FA: L. Dixon R. Thomas & A. Stephens, 1986 | 8m | |||
13 | Just Add Water
The right arete of the "Shower Recess". Low angle arete with one bolt and trad gear. Cruise up and right on jugs to top to a double bolt belay. FA: D. Carter & A. Donoghue, 1994 | 8m, 1 | |||
18 | ★ Where's My Burrito
The face 3m right of the 'Shower Recess'. Up to horizontal break (cam) then up steep wall past one or two bolts to a double bolt belay. FA: D.Carter & A. Donoghue, 1994 | 8m, 1 | |||
22 | ★★ Short And Sweet
The right side of the wall to the right of the "Shower Recess". Beautiful! Do it! Up bulging wall to top. 2 bolts. FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1989 | 8m, 2 | |||
8 | Snowman
One of the first routs at this cliff by the Dodgy Brothers. A fist sized crack in a short wall. Strait up. Right of SHORT AND SWEET. FA: L. (Pieman) Dixon & N. (Dicko) Dixon, 1984 | 8m | |||
12 | Confidence
A very short wall between SNOWMAN and WOMAN. Nice moves. FA: G. Stewart A. Stephens & L. Dixon, 1987 | 8m | |||
8 | Woman
A waste of space. No .. not women .. just this route. A very short crack. More of a quick way to the top of the cliff. FA: A. Stephens & L. Dixon, 1986 | 8m | |||
17 | ★ Lambada
2m right of WALT DISNEY'S PICKING STRAWBERRIES. A crack then wall. Small cams and 2 bolts. Be gentle on the footholds up high. Quite nice. FA: A Stephens & G. Dean, 1990 | 8m, 2 | |||
17 | ★★ Treeology
Right of SUMMER. A crack in a steep wall next to the big Blackbutt tree. Natural pro. Strenuous start, scary in the middle and a tricky finish. A lot of fun. FA: A Stephens & L. Dixon, 1986 | 10m | |||
20 | ★ Intreeg
Great fun. Superb moves. A couple of metres right of TREEOLOGY. Swing up the wall. 2 bolts and some natural pro. FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1990 | 10m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ The Golden Dog
An excellent climb, named after the friendly Glenreagh Pub. The Pub burnt down during winter 1991 but was rebuilt. The classic Golden Dog statue was added in 2011. A good long route. The left leaning, diagonal crack to the cave then up the wider crack to top. Tree belay. FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens & G. Stewart, 1987 | 10m | |||
21 | ★★ Long Tall Texan
Start as for THE GOLDEN DOG, into the cave then move right from the cave and up the steep wall past 2 bolts and trad gear. Strenuous and sustained. Tree belay. FA: A. Stephens, G. Stewart & L. Dixon, 1987 | 10m, 2 | |||
15 | Whip It
Whip it ... Whip it GOOD! This is good. The first crack on the next wall. A hand to fist crack, with crux near the top. FA: L. Dixon & I. Allen, 1985 | 8m | |||
17 | ★★ And The Cooked
The wall/arete right of THE RAW. It'll keep you guessing. 1 bolt plus trad gear. FA: W. Anderson & G. Dean, 1989 | 10m, 1 | |||
16 | ★ Sandman
The next corner right of AND THE COOKED. A corner with a jam crack near the top, bridging, layaways and jams, it's got it all. FA: A. Stephens, W. (Image man) Fairly, R. Falls & L. Dixon, 1987 | 8m | |||
14 | Pus In Boots
This and the next route are on a short, orange section of the cliff with small roofs and caves. Imagine having pus in your boots! An overhanging arete then easy to top. FA: T. (Tadpole) Balla & L. Dixon, 1989 | 8m | |||
15 | Boot The Puss
2m right of PUS IN BOOTS. Up overhanging wall past crazy thread runner in roof, then cruise. FA: L. Dixon & Davey, 1989 | 8m | |||
12 | Shaky
The next corner right of BOOT THE PUSS. Every cliff needs a horrible climb. Up corner crack to cave, up wall to top. FA: L. Dixon & I. Allen, 1985 | 8m | |||
14 | ★ Sandcastles
The original start on the right side of the arete is about 17. However, a better start is on the left side of the arete and is more in keeping with the grade of the rest of the climb - 14. Excellent value. Straight up the arete to top, natural pro. FA: G Stewart. A. Stephens & L. Dixon, 1987 | 8m | |||
18 | ★ Bacon And Eggs
The next arete right of SAND CASTLES. All natural pro, take a full rack of small sizes. An intense arete that becomes an easier wall. 2 bolt belay. This one for the purist. FA: G. Dean & W. Anderson, 1990 | 8m | |||
20 | ★★ Bubble And Squeak
The shaded wall right of BACON AND EGGS. One of the best on the cliff. Love it...Love it...Love it! Up the steep wall with horizontal breaks. 2 bolts and a cam to a 2 bolt belay. FA: G. Dean & W. Anderson, 1990 | 8m, 2 | |||
9 | Gazebo
An access route. No pro. Better not to do it. On the easy side. FA: G. Dean, 1990 | 8m |
Showing all 38 routes.