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Routes as trad in Fun Parlour

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Showing all 38 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
19 Deceiving Decisions

Start on the block below the right leaning crack. Up crack then wall with small iron hand holds, wires low down then 3 BR's to the top.

FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1989

Mixed trad 8m, 3
19 Phantom Cockroaches

In the same alcove as FANTASY AND FICTION, 2m right. Don't use the block on the right hand side, you cheat! 1 bolt and a large cam.

FA: G. Dean, L. Dixon & Dave ?, 1989

Mixed trad 8m, 1
16 Son Of A Beach

A funky looking crack left of the big overhang (ROOM WITH A VIEW), up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top.

FA: A. Stephens, L. Dixon & G Stewart, 1987

Trad 8m
17 Steamer

One of the first routes done here. A wide corner rack, bridge and jam.

FA: L. Dixon & N. (Dicko) Dixon, 1984

Trad 8m
19 Ballroom Blitz

"Ready Steve, alright fellas, lets go......". The narrow wall 1m right of SILVER AND GOLD. Large Friend and 1 bolt. A little contrived, don't bridge off the right hand wall. Techno and streno. (Sorry Ralph!)

FA: Al Stephens, M. Colyvan, L. Dixon & Neil Crabb, 1988

Mixed trad 8m, 1
12 Cable Layer

The crack in the corner just right of BALLROOM BLITZ. Named after the feeling you get just after you put on your harness. Bridge and jam.

FA: L. Dixon & A. Stephens, 1988

Trad 8m
19 Planet Earth

A classic. The wall right of CABLE LAYER. Another Ramones inspired route. Large cam in cave and 2 bolts.

FA: L. Dixon & A. Stephens, 1988

Mixed trad 8m, 2
16 Wasp

The next crack right of PLANET EARTH. A flared crack in a steep wall, hard jamming to top.

FA: L. Dixon & M. Spence, 1988

Trad 8m
17 Life's A Beach

A steep jam crack, better than it looks.

FA: A. Stephens & L. Dixon, 1987

Trad 8m
11 Like A Virgin

The corner right of SANDY SANDSHOES. Neil's first route! Up onto the step then bridge up corner.

FA: Neil Crabb & Al Stephens, 1988

Trad 8m
18 Chicken Heroes

A juggy looking wall with poor pro up high. A large cam about half height, a 1/2 inch Hero loop over the chicken head and a small wire for pro.

FA: A. Stephens & L. Dixon, 1986

Trad 8m
16 Giblets

A crack with a cave near the top. The first rack right of CHICKEN HEROES. Hard start then easier climbing to top.

FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens & R. Thomas, 1986

Trad 8m
20 Obscure Route

Up trad crack and tend right to carrot bolt on arete.

FA: Unknown

Mixed trad 8m, 1
17 Don't Drop The Soap

A couple of metres right of STEAMY WINDOWS. A little contrived but an excellent route if you keep over to the left. Steep and juggy to start, leading to a flake and easy finish. 1 bolt plus small trad gear to tree belay.

FA: L. Dixon & A. Stephens, 1990

Mixed trad 8m, 1
10 Luke Warm

The left hand arete of the "Shower Recess". Up the arete then easily to top. A great beginners' route.

FA: L. Dixon & M. Spence, 1986

Trad 8m
14 Cold Tap

The left hand corner of the "Shower Recess". Up the corner with jugs to tree belay. The first good route climbed at the Fun Parlour (and possibly all of the Coffs area).

FA: L. Dixon & N. (Dicko) Dixon, 1984

Trad 8m
16 Hot Tap

The right hand corner of the "Shower Recess" Short but much harder than it looks. Sustained.

FA: L. Dixon R. Thomas & A. Stephens, 1986

Trad 8m
13 Just Add Water

The right arete of the "Shower Recess". Low angle arete with one bolt and trad gear. Cruise up and right on jugs to top to a double bolt belay.

FA: D. Carter & A. Donoghue, 1994

Mixed trad 8m, 1
18 Where's My Burrito

The face 3m right of the 'Shower Recess'. Up to horizontal break (cam) then up steep wall past one or two bolts to a double bolt belay.

FA: D.Carter & A. Donoghue, 1994

Mixed trad 8m, 1
22 Short And Sweet

The right side of the wall to the right of the "Shower Recess". Beautiful! Do it! Up bulging wall to top. 2 bolts.

FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1989

Mixed trad 8m, 2
8 Snowman

One of the first routs at this cliff by the Dodgy Brothers. A fist sized crack in a short wall. Strait up. Right of SHORT AND SWEET.

FA: L. (Pieman) Dixon & N. (Dicko) Dixon, 1984

Trad 8m
12 Confidence

A very short wall between SNOWMAN and WOMAN. Nice moves.

FA: G. Stewart A. Stephens & L. Dixon, 1987

Trad 8m
8 Woman

A waste of space. No .. not women .. just this route. A very short crack. More of a quick way to the top of the cliff.

FA: A. Stephens & L. Dixon, 1986

Trad 8m
17 Lambada

2m right of WALT DISNEY'S PICKING STRAWBERRIES. A crack then wall. Small cams and 2 bolts. Be gentle on the footholds up high. Quite nice.

FA: A Stephens & G. Dean, 1990

Mixed trad 8m, 2
17 Treeology

Right of SUMMER. A crack in a steep wall next to the big Blackbutt tree. Natural pro. Strenuous start, scary in the middle and a tricky finish. A lot of fun.

FA: A Stephens & L. Dixon, 1986

Trad 10m
20 Intreeg

Great fun. Superb moves. A couple of metres right of TREEOLOGY. Swing up the wall. 2 bolts and some natural pro.

FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1990

Mixed trad 10m, 2
17 The Golden Dog

An excellent climb, named after the friendly Glenreagh Pub. The Pub burnt down during winter 1991 but was rebuilt. The classic Golden Dog statue was added in 2011. A good long route. The left leaning, diagonal crack to the cave then up the wider crack to top. Tree belay.

FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens & G. Stewart, 1987

Trad 10m
21 Long Tall Texan

Start as for THE GOLDEN DOG, into the cave then move right from the cave and up the steep wall past 2 bolts and trad gear. Strenuous and sustained. Tree belay.

FA: A. Stephens, G. Stewart & L. Dixon, 1987

Mixed trad 10m, 2
15 Whip It

Whip it ... Whip it GOOD! This is good. The first crack on the next wall. A hand to fist crack, with crux near the top.

FA: L. Dixon & I. Allen, 1985

Trad 8m
17 And The Cooked

The wall/arete right of THE RAW. It'll keep you guessing. 1 bolt plus trad gear.

FA: W. Anderson & G. Dean, 1989

Mixed trad 10m, 1
16 Sandman

The next corner right of AND THE COOKED. A corner with a jam crack near the top, bridging, layaways and jams, it's got it all.

FA: A. Stephens, W. (Image man) Fairly, R. Falls & L. Dixon, 1987

Trad 8m
14 Pus In Boots

This and the next route are on a short, orange section of the cliff with small roofs and caves. Imagine having pus in your boots! An overhanging arete then easy to top.

FA: T. (Tadpole) Balla & L. Dixon, 1989

Trad 8m
15 Boot The Puss

2m right of PUS IN BOOTS. Up overhanging wall past crazy thread runner in roof, then cruise.

FA: L. Dixon & Davey, 1989

Trad 8m
12 Shaky

The next corner right of BOOT THE PUSS. Every cliff needs a horrible climb. Up corner crack to cave, up wall to top.

FA: L. Dixon & I. Allen, 1985

Trad 8m
14 Sandcastles

The original start on the right side of the arete is about 17. However, a better start is on the left side of the arete and is more in keeping with the grade of the rest of the climb - 14. Excellent value. Straight up the arete to top, natural pro.

FA: G Stewart. A. Stephens & L. Dixon, 1987

Trad 8m
18 Bacon And Eggs

The next arete right of SAND CASTLES. All natural pro, take a full rack of small sizes. An intense arete that becomes an easier wall. 2 bolt belay. This one for the purist.

FA: G. Dean & W. Anderson, 1990

Trad 8m
20 Bubble And Squeak

The shaded wall right of BACON AND EGGS. One of the best on the cliff. Love it...Love it...Love it! Up the steep wall with horizontal breaks. 2 bolts and a cam to a 2 bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean & W. Anderson, 1990

Mixed trad 8m, 2
9 Gazebo

An access route. No pro. Better not to do it. On the easy side.

FA: G. Dean, 1990

Trad 8m

Showing all 38 routes.

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