Topo #1773

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1 ** You Can't Touch This

On a small buttress about 50m left of the main crag. Onto the wall and up through the right side of the roof. 2 bolts and a tree belay.

20 Sport 8m, 2 Unlink route

Topo #1774

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2 * Rum And Coke

The first route on the main section of the cliff. A thin crack in a wall. Shoot up crack to horizontal break, then it's suddenly hard. 2 carrot bolt belay 2m back from cliff edge.

22 Sport 8m, 2 Unlink route

Topo #1755

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3 * Deceiving Decisions

Start on the block below the right leaning crack. Up crack then wall with small iron hand holds, wires low down then 3 BR's to the top.

19 Mixed 8m, 3 Unlink route
4 Swingin' Oldies

Just right of DECEIVING DECISIONS. Up short wall, thin moves to top, 3 carrot bolts.

18 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route
5 Cosmic Energy

A blunt arete arete, 2 carrots and 2 carrot bolt belay.

20 Sport 8m, 2 Unlink route

Topo #1754

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6 Fantasy And Fiction

The short wall in an alcove, 1m right of COSMIC ENERGY. This moves up the short wall. 2 carrots and 1 bolt plus tree belay.

18 Sport 8m, 2 Unlink route
7 Phantom Cockroaches

In the same alcove as FANTASY AND FICTION, 2m right. Don't use the block on the right hand side, you cheat! 1 bolt and a large cam.

19 Mixed 8m, 1 Unlink route
8 Son Of A Beach

A funky looking crack left of the big overhang (ROOM WITH A VIEW), up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top.

16 Trad 8m Unlink route

Topo #1777

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8 Son Of A Beach

A funky looking crack left of the big overhang (ROOM WITH A VIEW), up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top.

16 Trad 8m Unlink route
9 ** Room With A View

The obvious roof just right of the approach trail. 4 BR's and a small cam down low. 2 BR's are next to each other at the start of the hard bit. Belay back on trees. Was originally graded 22 (in the days when climbing roofs was a new thing).

18 Sport 8m, 4 Unlink route
10 Shady Retreat

Perfect on a hot sunny day. Up the wall just right of (and perpendicular to) ROOM WITH A VIEW. 3 bolts. Beautiful!

17 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route
11 Steamer

One of the first routes done here. A wide corner rack, bridge and jam.

17 Trad 8m Unlink route

Topo #1753

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9 ** Room With A View

The obvious roof just right of the approach trail. 4 BR's and a small cam down low. 2 BR's are next to each other at the start of the hard bit. Belay back on trees. Was originally graded 22 (in the days when climbing roofs was a new thing).

18 Sport 8m, 4 Unlink route
10 Shady Retreat

Perfect on a hot sunny day. Up the wall just right of (and perpendicular to) ROOM WITH A VIEW. 3 bolts. Beautiful!

17 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route
11 Steamer

One of the first routes done here. A wide corner rack, bridge and jam.

17 Trad 8m Unlink route
12 Quasimodo

The black wall right of STEAMER.

18 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route
13 ** Silver And Gold

The golden wall with 2 pieces of silver, right of QUASIMODO. Technical and strenuous. In contrast to Room With A View (also by Stephens) which was downgraded, this route was originally graded 22 and is now considered by some to be closer to 24.

23 Sport 8m, 2 Unlink route
14 Ballroom Blitz

"Ready Steve, alright fellas, lets go......". The narrow wall 1m right of SILVER AND GOLD. Large Friend and 1 bolt. A little contrived, don't bridge off the right hand wall. Techno and streno. (Sorry Ralph!)

19 Mixed 8m, 1 Unlink route
15 Cable Layer

The crack in the corner just right of BALLROOM BLITZ. Named after the feeling you get just after you put on your harness. Bridge and jam.

12 Trad 8m Unlink route

Topo #1757

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16 * Planet Earth

A classic. The wall right of CABLE LAYER. Another Ramones inspired route. Large cam in cave and 2 bolts.

19 Mixed 8m, 2 Unlink route
17 Wasp

The next crack right of PLANET EARTH. A flared crack in a steep wall, hard jamming to top.

16 Trad 8m Unlink route
18 ** (Unknown 1)
20 Sport 8m Unlink route

Topo #1758

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19 Life's A Beach

A steep jam crack, better than it looks.

17 Trad 8m Unlink route
20 Sandy Sandshoes

Great little short wall, out of the sun. Good small holds, pumpy. 2 bolts and a cam.

18 Sport 8m, 2 Unlink route
21 Like A Virgin

The corner right of SANDY SANDSHOES. Neil's first route! Up onto the step then bridge up corner.

11 Trad 8m Unlink route

Topo #1759

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21 Like A Virgin

The corner right of SANDY SANDSHOES. Neil's first route! Up onto the step then bridge up corner.

11 Trad 8m Unlink route
22 Powered By Bosch

1.5 metres left of 'Chicken Heros'. Up easy slab to bolt with fixed hanger. An interesting sequence leads past this then pad on up to double bolt belay.

18 Sport 8m, 2 Unlink route
23 Chicken Heroes

A juggy looking wall with poor pro up high. A large cam about half height, a 1/2 inch Hero loop over the chicken head and a small wire for pro.

18 Trad 8m Unlink route

Topo #1760

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23 Chicken Heroes

A juggy looking wall with poor pro up high. A large cam about half height, a 1/2 inch Hero loop over the chicken head and a small wire for pro.

18 Trad 8m Unlink route
24 Giblets

A crack with a cave near the top. The first rack right of CHICKEN HEROES. Hard start then easier climbing to top.

16 Trad 8m Unlink route
25 Obscure Route

Up trad crack and tend right to carrot bolt on arete.

20 Mixed 8m, 1 Unlink route

Topo #1761

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26 Rags To Riches

The wall right of GIBLETS. Up steepening wall. 3 bolts and trad belay. Superb.

20 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route
25 Obscure Route

Up trad crack and tend right to carrot bolt on arete.

20 Mixed 8m, 1 Unlink route

Topo #1762

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30 Don't Drop The Soap

A couple of metres right of STEAMY WINDOWS. A little contrived but an excellent route if you keep over to the left. Steep and juggy to start, leading to a flake and easy finish. 1 bolt plus small trad gear to tree belay.

17 Mixed 8m, 1 Unlink route
31 Luke Warm

The left hand arete of the "Shower Recess". Up the arete then easily to top. A great beginners' route.

10 Trad 8m Unlink route
32 Cold Tap

The left hand corner of the "Shower Recess". Up the corner with jugs to tree belay. The first good route climbed at the Fun Parlour (and possibly all of the Coffs area).

14 Trad 8m Unlink route
33 * Hot Tap

The right hand corner of the "Shower Recess" Short but much harder than it looks. Sustained.

16 Trad 8m Unlink route
34 Just Add Water

The right arete of the "Shower Recess". Low angle arete with one bolt and trad gear. Cruise up and right on jugs to top to a double bolt belay.

13 Mixed 8m, 1 Unlink route

Topo #1763

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34 Just Add Water

The right arete of the "Shower Recess". Low angle arete with one bolt and trad gear. Cruise up and right on jugs to top to a double bolt belay.

13 Mixed 8m, 1 Unlink route
35 Where's My Burrito

The face 3m right of the 'Shower Recess'. Up to horizontal break (cam) then up steep wall past one or two bolts to a double bolt belay.

18 Mixed 8m, 1 Unlink route
36 Short And Sweet

The right side of the wall to the right of the "Shower Recess". Beautiful! Do it! Up bulging wall to top. 2 bolts.

22 Mixed 8m, 2 Unlink route

Topo #1764

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40 * Walt Disney's Picking Strawberries

One of the hardest routes at the crag. The obvious roof right of CONFIDENCE. A short steep wall, then muscle round the roof, then easier to tree belay. 2 bolts. It's great!

23 Sport 8m, 2 Unlink route
41 Lambada

2m right of WALT DISNEY'S PICKING STRAWBERRIES. A crack then wall. Small cams and 2 bolts. Be gentle on the footholds up high. Quite nice.

17 Mixed 8m, 2 Unlink route

Topo #1765

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42 Summer

his route and the next two go up the wall with the large tree close to the wall. Technical, strenuous and it wanders around a little bit - don't bridge off the tree you cheat! Originally reported to have 3 or 4 bolts but may be missing the last one (?)

22 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route

Topo #1766

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43 * Treeology

Right of SUMMER. A crack in a steep wall next to the big Blackbutt tree. Natural pro. Strenuous start, scary in the middle and a tricky finish. A lot of fun.

17 Trad 10m Unlink route
44 * Intreeg

Great fun. Superb moves. A couple of metres right of TREEOLOGY. Swing up the wall. 2 bolts and some natural pro.

20 Mixed 10m, 2 Unlink route

Topo #1772

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45 * The Golden Dog

An excellent climb, named after the friendly Glenreagh Pub. The Pub burnt down during winter 1991 but was rebuilt. The classic Golden Dog statue was added in 2011. A good long route. The left leaning, diagonal crack to the cave then up the wider crack to top. Tree belay.

17 Trad 10m Unlink route
46 * Long Tall Texan

Start as for THE GOLDEN DOG, into the cave then move right from the cave and up the steep wall past 2 bolts and trad gear. Strenuous and sustained. Tree belay.

21 Mixed 10m, 2 Unlink route

Topo #1768

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48 * The Raw

One of the BEST on the cliff... A definite must do! A long, steep, slightly overhanging wall perpendicular to the main crag. Very sustained. 4 bolts. Originally had a double bolt belay but apparently someone has chopped them (?). Either rap off the dodgy tree or walk down.

21 Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
49 And The Cooked

The wall/arete right of THE RAW. It'll keep you guessing. 1 bolt plus trad gear.

17 Mixed 10m, 1 Unlink route

Topo #1769

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51 Funnel Web

One of the best at this grade. The first bolted route at Fun Parlour and the Coffs area. Start at the arete next to SANDMAN. Clip the first two bolts then move onto the face, 2 more bolts and a steep little wall to finish.

17 Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #1770

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57 * Bubble And Squeak

The shaded wall right of BACON AND EGGS. One of the best on the cliff. Love it...Love it...Love it! Up the steep wall with horizontal breaks. 2 bolts and a cam to a 2 bolt belay.

20 Mixed 8m, 2 Unlink route

Topo #1771

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58 Power And The Passion

Left of these little wonders is a large boulder that is about to roll down to the road and squash your car. It is called the "Gazebo". The two routes on the eastern side are out of the sun in the afternoon. There's an abseil chain at the top. 'Sometimes you've got to take the hardest line...'. This goes up the northern end, the first line you come to. Forget the passion, it's all power on this one. 2 bolts. Belay off a bolt and chains. Technical and sustained.

21 Sport 8m, 2 Unlink route
60 Wedding Cake Island

2m left of POWER AND THE PASSION, the middle of the wall. Straight up past 2 bolts to chains. Nice on a hot afternoon.

19 Sport 8m, 2 Unlink route