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Description

A small area with nice setting

Approach

Access as for Fort Knox Top Carpark but instead of veering right down get lost trail continue 2.2km to small track on right (after short steep hill). drive to end of trail (about 100m) and park. From car head down right to the right (facing out from cliff) and then back down under cliffs to climbing area

Ethic inherited from Coffs Harbour

Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
16 Chance Meeting Trad 10m

Cnr crack - It was there. Natural Pro

FA: Bruce Jones

2
21 Mobile Moments Trad 12m

Obvious line on BH’s. Crux near top

FA: Bruce Jones

3
19 * Mangle Sandle Trad 19m

Start 2m left of BROKEN TOE, directly under first BR. 3BR's plus natural. Natural after third BR. Nice moves well worth the effort. Tree Belay.

FA: Bruce Jones

4
15 Drum Beat Trad 18m

An easy way to the top. Left of 'Broken Toe' up past a tree. Natural Pro and Belay.

FA: Bruce Jones

5
19 * Broken Toe Trad 20m

Follow crack to top. Tree belay.

FA: Bruce Jones

6
22 Iron John Unknown 20m
7
16 Nudge Nudge Trad 17m

Start in line with arete 2m left and below WINK WINK. Pro in horizontal crack. Up and left for pro in left cnr crack. Move up and right to first BR Follow BR line to top. 3 BR's plus natural. Nice and pleasant. Tree belay

FA: Bruce Jones

8
20 * Wink Wink Trad 15m

First face past first cnr left of RAIN DANCE. Start near tree and use face only. Follow BR line to top. Very nice and sustained. 4 BR's with tree belay.

FA: Bruce Jones

9
20 ** Rain Dance Trad 20m

Arete to the right of 'WINK WINK'. Start below arete and move right then left. Go to left of overhang. Move up and traverse right to arete and mantle up. Move left onto face and head for tree at top

FA: Bruce Jones, 1996

10
22 ** War Dance Unknown 25m

Around the cnr to the right of 'RAIN DANCE'. Start in depression and move right then up onto block. Veer left over bulge then right past shrubbery to top.

FA: Matt Hutton

11
19 Grapevine Trad 25m

4 BR’s wires and cams. Start as for War Dance. Clip first FH then traverse right. Follow BR’s & finish as for War Dance. A little pumpy at top third

FA: Bruce Jones