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Description:

A small area with nice setting

Approach:

Access as for Fort Knox Top Carpark but instead of veering right down get lost trail continue 2.2km to small track on right (after short steep hill). drive to end of trail (about 100m) and park. From car head down right to the right (facing out from cliff) and then back down under cliffs to climbing area

Ethic: inherited from Coffs Harbour

Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Bolts with fixed hangers and routes with lower-offs are encouraged. Tape on the first bolt of a route indicates routes that are incomplete. Please respect these routes as projects until the tape is removed.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Chance Meeting

Cnr crack - It was there. Natural Pro

FA: Bruce Jones,

16
Trad 10m
2 Mobile Moments

Obvious line on BH’s. Crux near top

FA: Bruce Jones,

21
Trad 12m
3 * Mangle Sandle

Start 2m left of BROKEN TOE, directly under first BR. 3BR's plus natural. Natural after third BR. Nice moves well worth the effort. Tree Belay.

FA: Bruce Jones,

19
Trad 19m
4 Drum Beat

An easy way to the top. Left of 'Broken Toe' up past a tree. Natural Pro and Belay.

FA: Bruce Jones,

15
Trad 18m
5 * Broken Toe

Follow crack to top. Tree belay.

FA: Bruce Jones,

19
Trad 20m
6 Iron John
22
Unknown 20m
7 Nudge Nudge

Start in line with arete 2m left and below WINK WINK. Pro in horizontal crack. Up and left for pro in left cnr crack. Move up and right to first BR Follow BR line to top. 3 BR's plus natural. Nice and pleasant. Tree belay

FA: Bruce Jones,

16
Trad 17m
8 * Wink Wink

First face past first cnr left of RAIN DANCE. Start near tree and use face only. Follow BR line to top. Very nice and sustained. 4 BR's with tree belay.

FA: Bruce Jones,

20
Trad 15m
9 ** Rain Dance

Arete to the right of 'WINK WINK'. Start below arete and move right then left. Go to left of overhang. Move up and traverse right to arete and mantle up. Move left onto face and head for tree at top

FA: Bruce Jones, 1996

20
Trad 20m
10 ** War Dance

Around the cnr to the right of 'RAIN DANCE'. Start in depression and move right then up onto block. Veer left over bulge then right past shrubbery to top.

FA: Matt Hutton,

22
Unknown 25m
11 Grapevine

4 BR’s wires and cams. Start as for War Dance. Clip first FH then traverse right. Follow BR’s & finish as for War Dance. A little pumpy at top third

FA: Bruce Jones,

19
Trad 25m
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