A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

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Table of contents

1. Music Hall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 153.025432, -30.027746

Description:

A small area with nice setting

Approach:

Access as for Fort Knox Top Carpark but instead of veering right down get lost trail continue 2.2km to small track on right (after short steep hill). drive to end of trail (about 100m) and park. From car head down right to the right (facing out from cliff) and then back down under cliffs to climbing area

Ethic: inherited from Coffs Harbour

Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Chance Meeting

Cnr crack - It was there. Natural Pro

FA: Bruce Jones

16Trad 10m
2 Mobile Moments

Obvious line on BH’s. Crux near top

FA: Bruce Jones

21Trad 12m
3 * Mangle Sandle

Start 2m left of BROKEN TOE, directly under first BR. 3BR's plus natural. Natural after third BR. Nice moves well worth the effort. Tree Belay.

FA: Bruce Jones

19Trad 19m
4 Drum Beat

An easy way to the top. Left of 'Broken Toe' up past a tree. Natural Pro and Belay.

FA: Bruce Jones

15Trad 18m
5 * Broken Toe

Follow crack to top. Tree belay.

FA: Bruce Jones

19Trad 20m
6 Iron John 22Unknown 20m
7 Nudge Nudge

Start in line with arete 2m left and below WINK WINK. Pro in horizontal crack. Up and left for pro in left cnr crack. Move up and right to first BR Follow BR line to top. 3 BR's plus natural. Nice and pleasant. Tree belay

FA: Bruce Jones

16Trad 17m
8 * Wink Wink

First face past first cnr left of RAIN DANCE. Start near tree and use face only. Follow BR line to top. Very nice and sustained. 4 BR's with tree belay.

FA: Bruce Jones

20Trad 15m
9 ** Rain Dance

Arete to the right of 'WINK WINK'. Start below arete and move right then left. Go to left of overhang. Move up and traverse right to arete and mantle up. Move left onto face and head for tree at top

FA: Bruce Jones, 1996

20Trad 20m
10 ** War Dance

Around the cnr to the right of 'RAIN DANCE'. Start in depression and move right then up onto block. Veer left over bulge then right past shrubbery to top.

FA: Matt Hutton

22Unknown 25m
11 Grapevine

4 BR’s wires and cams. Start as for War Dance. Clip first FH then traverse right. Follow BR’s & finish as for War Dance. A little pumpy at top third

FA: Bruce Jones

19Trad 25m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
15 Drum Beat Trad 18m
16 Chance Meeting Trad 10m
Nudge Nudge Trad 17m
19 * Broken Toe Trad 20m
Grapevine Trad 25m
* Mangle Sandle Trad 19m
20 ** Rain Dance Trad 20m
* Wink Wink Trad 15m
21 Mobile Moments Trad 12m
22 Iron John Unknown 20m
** War Dance Unknown 25m