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Table of contents

1. The Scones 103 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 152.982514, -30.001230

Unique Features And Strengths:

Sandstone bouldering area near Glenreagh with a very short approach.

Description:

A great mini-crag with nice boulders below it. The crag itself has a variety of juggy faces, aretes, and cracks. Landings are generally quite flat but one or more crash pads are recommended. Some of the problems have deceptively slopey top-outs. The Scones seems to see waves of activity over the years so a wire brush (and possibly an old rope) can be handy if you want to attempt more obscure problems or put up new ones. The area faces west and is on Crown Land.

Although many problems have been done over the years. Until the development of this guide, none had been recorded. They have been described as 'Projects' in this guide but should be updated with a name and grade as they get 'repeated'.

Approach:

The Scones are about 100m east of the Orara Way, 6.7km north of the Golden Dog in Glenreagh.

From Glenreagh, drive 6.3km until you see Boundary Rd on the western side of the road. Drive another 400m and park on the east side of the road, opposite the end of the long road barrier. You can see the boulders in the forest to the east. The best walking access is near the sign at the bottom of the hill. Walk 50m to the Kremnos Boulder.

The routes are described in two areas: the south and north. The south area is described starting at Kremnos boulder, going up to the crag, south along the crag and then back through the boulders. The northern areas are described from south to north.

Ethic: inherited from Coffs Harbour

Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.

History:

The Scones was first visited in the late 1980s by Larry Dixon and his mates but in those days 'bouldering' consisted of soloing high ball cracks and faces. Being about 20 years before the introduction of crash pads, bouldering was a lot more serious. No boulder problems were ever recorded in this era. The area saw sporadic visits over the next two decades but energy was mainly focussed on the developing sport climbing areas.

The Scones was 'rediscovered' by Ben Whittaker and Artie Schultz in the mid 2000's, who bought a modern bouldering ethic to the area. They established around 30 problems from short and steep through to high and scary including the routes on the classic Kremnos Boulder. They called the area 'Kremnos', due to the northern boundary being flanked by Kremnos creek.

1.1. Kremnos Boulder 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * A Volley of Dunlops

SDS, LH arete

V2Boulder 3m
2 ** The Kremonator

SDS at big hueco. Straight up. Probably harder now that the starting foothold has broken

FFA: Artie Schultz

V5Boulder 4m
3 ** Mini Ninja

SDS at big hueco. Traverse R and up.

FFA: Rhys Van Gastel

V4Boulder 4m
4 * Rumplesgotskillskin

A cool traverse under the lip left of the Scarlet Manuka, cool slopers.

FFA: Artie Schultz, Brian Cork, 2012

V2Boulder 3m
5 The Scarlet Manuka

SDS. Up central, juggy arete.

V1Boulder 4m
6 Cecil

SDS as per Scarlet Manuka but traverse R onto ramp.

V0Boulder 4m
7 ** Slap and Tickle

SDS overhanging wall L of RH arete.

V2Boulder 2m
8 Iron Paw

SDS, face to R of arete.

V0Boulder 3m

1.2. Blowboy boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

A small boulder that would be very cool if it was taller

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blowboy

Short and easy

V0Boulder
2 Blowgirl

SDS, a bit hard but too short to be worth it.

V1Boulder 2m
3 Slabblown

Back side of the boulder, couple of techy slab moves.

V1Boulder 2m

1.3. Low Boy Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Low Boy

SDS Short flake

V3Boulder 2m
2 Low Blow

SDS just right of corner. Up to jugs and mantle

V1Boulder 2m
3 Loafer

Rounded arete left of corner

V2Boulder 2m

1.4. Impossible Wall 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rangi

Slab in centre of face, left of chimney

V0Boulder 3m
2 Footrot

Right side of slab, left of chimney

V1Boulder 3m
3 * Project 22

LH arete of amazing, blank looking wall. Probably quite hard.

Boulder 4m
4 ** Project 23

Centre of face. Looks impossible.

Boulder 4m
5 * Project 24

RH arete of Impossibe Wall. Probably pretty hard too.

Boulder 4m

1.5. The Fortress 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dolores

Highball face left of crack

V0Boulder 6m
2 * Project 25

Highball face right of crack.

Boulder 6m
3 Jess

Highball corner crack/slab

V0Boulder 5m
4 Project 26

Highball face right of corner. Looks hard.

Boulder
5 The Cry of the Grey Ghost

Highball crack

V0Boulder

1.6. The Alcove 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project 14

Arete

Boulder 5m
2 Slabba Dabba Doo

Short, slabby face

V0Boulder 3m
3 Shaggy

Prominent crack left of tree

V0Boulder 4m
4 * Anti Power

Slabby face/scoop right of tree

V4Boulder 4m
5 * Block Head

Blocky face right of corner/chimney

V1Boulder 4m

1.7. High Ball Wall 14 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project 27

Highball crack to Offwidth. Yeesh!

Boulder 6m
2 ** Lick My Greasy Crack

Highball, orange crack.

V1Boulder 6m
3 ** Fallen Figures / Project 29

Highball arête. Not as hard as it looks, but a couple of scary moves near the top will get you thinking. Named to honour the loss of Marty and Denali Schmitt who passed away on K2 not long before the FA.

FA: Artie Schultz, 2013

V1Boulder 6m
4 Project 30

Highball face.

Boulder 6m
5 Project 31

Highball face/arete

Boulder 6m
6 Scared Frog

Highball corner crack

FFA: Brenton Owens, 2014

V1Boulder 6m
7 ** One Eye and the Optometrist

Highball face, excellent climbing

FFA: Artie Schultz, 2013

V0Boulder 7m
8 * Jug Rattler

Highball face, marginal R rating due to big rock in landing zone and possibly loose jug at 2/3 height

FFA: Artie Schultz, 2013

V0 RBoulder 7m
9 Project 35

Highball corner crack

Boulder 6m
10 Project 36

Highball face

Boulder 6m
11 Project 37

Highball face

Boulder 6m
12 Project 38

Highball face

Boulder 6m
13 Project 39

Crack

Boulder 6m
14 Project 40

Highball face left of descent gully

Boulder 6m

1.8. Orange Wall 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sugar

Featured grey face left of tree

V0Boulder 6m
2 ** HoCho

Orange face to roof

V1Boulder 6m
3 Choccybiccy

Face to roof

V1Boulder 6m

1.9. Jam and Cream Wall 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Cream Puff

Arete

V2Boulder 4m
2 * Jam and Cream

Face 1 m right of arete

V0Boulder 4m
3 * Strudel

Face 5 m right of arete, just left of Jam and Scream

FA: Ben Whittaker, Artie Schultz

V4Boulder 5m
4 ** Jam and Scream

Crack above small cave.

V1Boulder 4m
5 Project 10

Face right of crack

Boulder Project 5m

1.10. South Central 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Face-scooped

Face to scoop

FFA: Artie Schultz, Brian Cork, 2012

V1Boulder 4m
2 Fed-ex

Face with letterbox slot, thus the name

FFA: Artie Schultz, Brian Cork, 2012

V1Boulder 4m
3 Project 43

Highball face right of dead log

Boulder 5m

1.11. Oreo 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left Oreo

Lefthand side of juggy face to ledge

V0Boulder 3m
2 * Oreo

Centre of juggy face to ledge

V0Boulder 3m
3 * Oreo Traverse

Traverse the prominent rail

V0Boulder 4m
4 * Super Cruise

Highball arete right of the Oreo

V0Boulder 5m

1.12. South Park 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project 49

Highball face between Oreo and the next crack

Boulder 5m
2 Project 50

Crack

Boulder 4m
3 Project 51

Face right of crack

Boulder 4m
4 Project 52

Face left of tiny tree on cliff

Boulder 5m
5 Project 53

Face right of tiny tree on cliff

Boulder 5m
6 Project 54

Short face

Boulder 3m
7 Project 55

Short face

Boulder 3m
8 Project 56

Very short flake to right of crack to roof

Boulder 3m

1.13. The Smoulder Boulders 12 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Snootch

Start left of the tree

V0Boulder 2m
2 * Cooch

Face left of arete

V0Boulder 3m
3 ** Smoulder

SDS face/arete

V1Boulder 4m
4 Donkey

Face above roof. Painful.

V3Boulder 4m
5 Horse

RH arete

V0Boulder 3m
6 Project Boulder 2m
7 Pew V0Boulder 3m
8 Prince Charles

Face R of tree

V0Boulder 3m
9 Project 4

Face R of corner

Boulder
10 Project 5 Boulder
11 Jambalaya

SDS, up to good sidepull and long move to the top

FFA: Brian Cork, Artie Schultz, 2012

V1Boulder
12 Skinless

SDS on angled rail, up to finish on massive horn

FFA: Artie Schultz, Brian Cork, 2012

V1Boulder 3m

1.14. Aussie Mateship Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 C'mon Mate

SDS Horizontal flake to jug

V0Boulder 2m
2 * Aussie Mateship

SDS Vertical flake to jug

V0Boulder 2m
3 Onya Mate

SDS Huge arete/flake

V0Boulder 2m
4 Yeah Mate

Arete

V0Boulder 3m

1.15. Jugville Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Horn Dog

SDS to large, prominent horn feature. There are many variations of this problem.

V0Boulder 3m
2 Jugville Central

Loads of V0 variations

V0Boulder 2m
3 Gloria's Jeans

Low Traverse right to left.

FA: David Michael, Matt Miller, 2013

V1Boulder

1.16. Northern Rooves 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Rasta

Roof to slopey top out. Awesome.

FFA: Luke Cornish, Artie Schultz

V3Boulder 5m
2 Project 12

Roof problem

Boulder 5m
3 Project 13

Bulges

Boulder 5m

1.17. Skip's Highball 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

A tall prominent overhang with two established highball problems so far

Approach:

About 30m north of the Northern Rooves boulders, along the same contour.

History:

Brendan Heywood snagged the FA of the left hand route in the mid 2000s. Rhys Van Gastel did the FA of the harder right hand route some time later.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Skip's Highball

Start on left block, up into break below big roof, then over the lip to huge pocket and up wall above

FFA: Brendan Heywood

V1Boulder 5m
2 Rhys's Highball

Start on right hand block, through the right side of the overhang and up the wall

FFA: Rhys Van Gastel, Artie Schultz

V3Boulder 5m

1.18. Graniteish Bloc 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

A black granite-looking boulder with some small crimps on it

Approach:

Just to the north and down the hill slightly from 'Skip's Highball'

History:

Ben Whittaker likely did the FA of the route to the left. Artie Schultz did the FA of the other three routes some time later.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Ben's arete

SDS on the left side of the boulder, up the arete on sidepulls and crimps.

FA: Ben Whittaker

V1Boulder 3m
2 Have a Blow Job Boys

Hard, use the tiny two finger nubbin, huck for the top.

FFA: Artie Schultz

V4Boulder 3m
3 * Have a Blow Boys

Stand start on sidepulls, too slopey hold in the middle of the wall, huck for the top

FFA: Artie Schultz

V3Boulder 3m
4 After the Blow

Not as good as the rest of the problems on this boulder

FFA: Artie Schultz

V1Boulder 3m

1.19. Low overhang 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

A small bloc a bit north of the Graniteish bloc

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Leftest

SDS on the left of the overhang.

FFA: Probably Ben Whittaker

V1Boulder 2m
2 Underhang

SDS right of overhang, traverse under.

FFA: Probably Ben Whittaker

V1Boulder
3 Overslap

SDS right of overhang up to obvious pocket, up and left along the lip

FFA: Artie Schultz

V2Boulder
4 Cool pocket

SDS right of overhang up to obvious pocket, exit right

FFA: Ben Whittaker

V1Boulder

1.20. Thread Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Thread

The southern side of the boulder with the cool thread. Don't break it.

V0Boulder 3m
2 Project

The western side of the boulder

Boulder 3m

1.21. Far North 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

North again from the Granitish Bloc and the Low overhang. little roof at the base to jugfest above

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left wall

Up the wall left of the little roof

V0Boulder 4m
2 Left roof

SDS under left of roof, then up the wall

FFA:

V1Boulder
3 Right Roof

SDS under right side of little roof, then up the wall on jugs.

FFA:

V1Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
V0 Cecil Boulder 4m 1.1. Kremnos Boulder
Iron Paw Boulder 3m 1.1. Kremnos Boulder
Blowboy Boulder 1.2. Blowboy boulder
Rangi Boulder 3m 1.4. Impossible Wall
Dolores Boulder 6m 1.5. The Fortress
Jess Boulder 5m 1.5. The Fortress
The Cry of the Grey Ghost Boulder 1.5. The Fortress
Shaggy Boulder 4m 1.6. The Alcove
Slabba Dabba Doo Boulder 3m 1.6. The Alcove
* Jug Rattler Boulder 7m 1.7. High Ball Wall
** One Eye and the Optometrist Boulder 7m 1.7. High Ball Wall
Sugar Boulder 6m 1.8. Orange Wall
* Jam and Cream Boulder 4m 1.9. Jam and Cream Wall
Left Oreo Boulder 3m 1.11. Oreo
* Oreo Boulder 3m 1.11. Oreo
* Oreo Traverse Boulder 4m 1.11. Oreo
* Super Cruise Boulder 5m 1.11. Oreo
* Cooch Boulder 3m 1.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Horse Boulder 3m 1.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Pew Boulder 3m 1.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Prince Charles Boulder 3m 1.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Snootch Boulder 2m 1.13. The Smoulder Boulders
* Aussie Mateship Boulder 2m 1.14. Aussie Mateship Boulder
C'mon Mate Boulder 2m 1.14. Aussie Mateship Boulder
Onya Mate Boulder 2m 1.14. Aussie Mateship Boulder
Yeah Mate Boulder 3m 1.14. Aussie Mateship Boulder
Horn Dog Boulder 3m 1.15. Jugville Boulder
Jugville Central Boulder 2m 1.15. Jugville Boulder
Thread Boulder 3m 1.20. Thread Boulder
Left wall Boulder 4m 1.21. Far North
V1 The Scarlet Manuka Boulder 4m 1.1. Kremnos Boulder
Blowgirl Boulder 2m 1.2. Blowboy boulder
Slabblown Boulder 2m 1.2. Blowboy boulder
Low Blow Boulder 2m 1.3. Low Boy Boulder
Footrot Boulder 3m 1.4. Impossible Wall
* Block Head Boulder 4m 1.6. The Alcove
** Fallen Figures Boulder 6m 1.7. High Ball Wall
** Lick My Greasy Crack Boulder 6m 1.7. High Ball Wall
Scared Frog Boulder 6m 1.7. High Ball Wall
Choccybiccy Boulder 6m 1.8. Orange Wall
** HoCho Boulder 6m 1.8. Orange Wall
** Jam and Scream Boulder 4m 1.9. Jam and Cream Wall
* Face-scooped Boulder 4m 1.10. South Central
Fed-ex Boulder 4m 1.10. South Central
Jambalaya Boulder 1.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Skinless Boulder 3m 1.13. The Smoulder Boulders
** Smoulder Boulder 4m 1.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Gloria's Jeans Boulder 1.15. Jugville Boulder
Skip's Highball Boulder 5m 1.17. Skip's Highball
After the Blow Boulder 3m 1.18. Graniteish Bloc
* Ben's arete Boulder 3m 1.18. Graniteish Bloc
Cool pocket Boulder 1.19. Low overhang
Leftest Boulder 2m 1.19. Low overhang
Underhang Boulder 1.19. Low overhang
Left roof Boulder 1.21. Far North
Right Roof Boulder 1.21. Far North
V2 * A Volley of Dunlops Boulder 3m 1.1. Kremnos Boulder
* Rumplesgotskillskin Boulder 3m 1.1. Kremnos Boulder
** Slap and Tickle Boulder 2m 1.1. Kremnos Boulder
Loafer Boulder 2m 1.3. Low Boy Boulder
* Cream Puff Boulder 4m 1.9. Jam and Cream Wall
Overslap Boulder 1.19. Low overhang
V3 * Low Boy Boulder 2m 1.3. Low Boy Boulder
Donkey Boulder 4m 1.13. The Smoulder Boulders
** Rasta Boulder 5m 1.16. Northern Rooves
Rhys's Highball Boulder 5m 1.17. Skip's Highball
* Have a Blow Boys Boulder 3m 1.18. Graniteish Bloc
V4 ** Mini Ninja Boulder 4m 1.1. Kremnos Boulder
* Anti Power Boulder 4m 1.6. The Alcove
* Strudel Boulder 5m 1.9. Jam and Cream Wall
Have a Blow Job Boys Boulder 3m 1.18. Graniteish Bloc
V5 ** The Kremonator Boulder 4m 1.1. Kremnos Boulder
? * Project 22 Boulder 4m 1.4. Impossible Wall
** Project 23 Boulder 4m 1.4. Impossible Wall
* Project 24 Boulder 4m 1.4. Impossible Wall
* Project 25 Boulder 6m 1.5. The Fortress
Project 26 Boulder 1.5. The Fortress
Project 14 Boulder 5m 1.6. The Alcove
Project 27 Boulder 6m 1.7. High Ball Wall
Project 30 Boulder 6m 1.7. High Ball Wall
Project 31 Boulder 6m 1.7. High Ball Wall
Project 35 Boulder 6m 1.7. High Ball Wall
Project 36 Boulder 6m 1.7. High Ball Wall
Project 37 Boulder 6m 1.7. High Ball Wall
Project 38 Boulder 6m 1.7. High Ball Wall
Project 39 Boulder 6m 1.7. High Ball Wall
Project 40 Boulder 6m 1.7. High Ball Wall
Project 10 Boulder Project 5m 1.9. Jam and Cream Wall
Project 43 Boulder 5m 1.10. South Central
Project 49 Boulder 5m 1.12. South Park
Project 50 Boulder 4m 1.12. South Park
Project 51 Boulder 4m 1.12. South Park
Project 52 Boulder 5m 1.12. South Park
Project 53 Boulder 5m 1.12. South Park
Project 54 Boulder 3m 1.12. South Park
Project 55 Boulder 3m 1.12. South Park
Project 56 Boulder 3m 1.12. South Park
Project Boulder 2m 1.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Project 4 Boulder 1.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Project 5 Boulder 1.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Project 12 Boulder 5m 1.16. Northern Rooves
Project 13 Boulder 5m 1.16. Northern Rooves
Project Boulder 3m 1.20. Thread Boulder