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Table of contents

1. Glenreagh 487 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 153.021162, -30.041853

Unique Features And Strengths:

The Glenreagh area (about 45 minutes NW of Coffs Harbour) offers an extensive sandstone escarpment with more than ten established crags and a variety of climbs from cracks to steep sport routes.

Description:

The Glenreagh area offers an extensive sandstone escarpment with more than ten established crags. It is possible to climb in the area year-round (by chasing shaded cliffs) but the best temperatures are from about March to October.

A brief summary of the crags near Glenreagh is as follows:

  • 'Fort Knox' is the most popular crag in the area. The area consists mostly of sport routes that are generally well protected with bolts and fixed hangers. Although there are routes of all grades, the highest concentration of the routes are from grade 21 to 25. Fort Knox also offers the a fine selection of routes at grade 25 and above. Fort Knox faces east and can be approached by 2WD vehicle (from below) or a 4WD vehicle (from above).

  • 'Fun Parlour' is a small but relatively popular cliff, especially for climbers looking for moderate grades and easy access for top-roping. Although being only 8 to 10 meters high, the cracks and walls are a lot of fun. Being a NW facing cliff summers are generally too hot for climbing at this crag, however winters days can be surprisingly warm and pleasant. The crag is easily accessible with a 2WD vehicle.

  • 'Wonderland' offers routes ranging from sketchy, old-school bolted routes and cracks to modern sport clip-ups. Most routes require a combination of bolts and traditional gear. The broken, multi-layered crag offers a variety of grades, faces west and can be approached with a high-clearance 2WD vehicle. Wonderland is the closest crag to the Pacific Highway if you are driving by and have limited time.

  • 'Never Never' is one of the larger cliffs in the area. It faces South so stays shaded most of the day and the Dead Mans Cave stays dry after rain due to the roof capping it. The area offers a mixture of sport and traditional routes. The hike-in approach is a bit longer and more involved than for some of the other crags.

  • 'Waihoo' is one of the newer crags offering a mix of sport and trad routes, however all the routes are well equipped with lower-offs and bolts with fixed hangers. The area boasts the shortest hike-in approach (about 2 minutes), faces south and is overhanging enough that it is even possible to climb some routes in heavy rain. The crag can be approached with a high-clearance 2WD vehicle. There is a lot of potential for new routes at Waihoo.

  • 'Solinari' offers a limited number of climbs (but a lot of potential for more) with the easiest being grade 23. The crag can be approached with a high-clearance 2WD vehicle and faces south.

  • 'Sherwood Buttress' offers a good mix of easier routes in a beautiful bushland setting. Most routes require a mix of sport and traditional gear (requiring bolt plates). The area is popular for top roping but the belays nearly all require traditional gear and are quite tricky to arrange. Sherwood Buttress generally faces east and can be easily accessed with a 2WD vehicle.

  • 'Obscurity Wall' offers five fun sport routes ranging from grade 20 to 24. The crag faces west and can be approached with a high-clearance, 2WD vehicle.

  • 'Gods Cliff', Music Hall, Bunyip and Kilowatts are less popular than some of their counterparts but offer a variety of interesting sport and trad routes and lots of potential for new routes.

  • 'The Scones' are a bouldering area beside the Orara Way, just north of Glenreagh. It consists of a short cliff (with highball problems) overlooking some nice boulders.

Approach:

To the newcomer, the forestry roads in the Glenreagh area can be a bit of a maze. To make it even more interesting, the condition of the forestry roads varies greatly from year to year, especially after heavy rain.

Generally, there are three main access roads from the Pacific Highway. Which one to use depends on where you are approaching from. Try driving out one way and back another for the full experience.

  • The Orara Way from Coffs Harbour is best for approaching all of the crags except for Wonderland if you are travelling from Coffs.
  • Bucca Road and Sherwood Road provide good access to the bulk of the areas when travelling from north of Moonee Beach.
  • Sherwood Creek Road (as opposed to Sherwood Road) provides the best access to Wonderland and is also good for getting to the bottom of Fort Knox, Sherwood Rock and Fun Parlour if you are approaching from the north.

The finer details of the approach to each crag are described separately.

Where To Stay:

The nearest bush camping is at the parking lot for Wonderland. Otherwise, the towns of Coffs Harbour, Woolgoolga or any of the other coastal villages offer everything from caravan parks and backpackers hostels to five star resorts. The ability to combine a combine climbing with a beach holiday is hard to beat.

Ethic: inherited from Coffs Harbour

Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.

History:

The first recorded climb in the Coffs Harbour area was Cold Tap (14) at the Fun Parlour, which was climbed by Larry Dixon, a dreadlocked, whitewater rafting guide from Ulong, in about 1982 . Throughout the '80s Larry, his brother Dicko, Ian Allen, Al Stephens, Richard Thomas (the long, tall Texan), Mark Spence, Graham Stewart, Wade Fairly and Richard Falls continued the gradual development of the small but fun crag.

Surprisingly one of the other areas visited in those days was 'The Scones', where 'bouldering' consisted of soloing high ball cracks and faces. Being about 20 years before the introduction of crash pads, bouldering was a lot more serious than it is these days. No boulder problems were ever recorded in this era (as it wasn't really climbing...).

Around that time, Larry also found and named the Godzone (originally called Gods Cliff). He so named the crag due to a large crucifix and altar he found under the large overhang. Gavin Dean and Al Stephens added a few routes to the area but didn't record them.

In 1989 Gavin Dean got serious about putting up new routes and Coffs climbing was about to get a major boost. Gavin started at the Fun Parlour, quickly claiming the first ascent of 12 routes including The Raw (21) and 'Rum and Coke' (22).

In 1990 Larry started spending more time kayaking first descents around the Dorrigo Plateau than climbing but Dean, with Al Stephens and Wayne Anderson, continued developing the Fun Parlour. They upped the top grade of the area, establishing 'Walt Disney's Picking Strawberries' (23).

Wonderland was founded in 1991, by Gavin Dean and company and the area was used as an abseiling school for a couple of years.The potential for rock climbing was soon realised and 25 routes were put up by Gavin Dean, Keith Bennett, Allan Stevens, Dick Curtis and Ed Sharp during June and July of that year! By the end of 1993 the area had 56 routes. Rarely has the development of a crag been dominated so greatly by one person with Gavin Dean being either leader or seconder in 44 of the first ascents.

The first printed guidebook to the area 'A Climbers Guide to the Mid-North Coast' by Gavin Dean was released in 1994, covering Fun Parlour and Wonderland.

1995 saw the 'rediscovery' of Sherwood rock when patchy weather had turned Bruce Jones and Danny Rose away from the Fun Parlour which is just a few minutes South West. Wonderland also saw some serious action that year when Ben Christian and Gordon Low (from Armidale) came down the mountain and established ten routes harder than grade 25. The prototype climbing walls they had built (which later became the climbing hold company 'Uncarved Block') was obviously working at raising the technical skill level, especially on overhanging sandstone. The top grade that year got bumped to 26.

1996 saw the discovery of Fort Knox when Ben Christian and Jeff Gracie were on another winter climbing break from Armidale to visit Wonderland. After quickly realising the crags potential they met up with he rest of the Armidale crew and moved camp from Wonderland to the infamous ‘Camp Butthole’ (where the top car park now is but camping is now banned). The first route to be completed was Gordon Lows 'Missing Monkeys' and by the time the dust and smoke settled at the end of the week another 20 routes had been completed. The top grade was pushed to 27 that year with Ben's ascent of Agent Scully. Matt Kelly also discovered Solinari sometime in this era.

1997 saw the production of the second guidebook for the area, ‘Climbers Guide to the Coffs Harbour Area' by Bruce Jones which covered Fun Parlour, Wonderland, Daydreams, Wild Dog Wall (at Fort Knox), Music Hall, Kangaroo Creek, Water Towers (Mal’s Rock) and Sherwood Rock.

Soon after, the third guide to the area was prepared by Sally Goode called “Climbing Guide to Coffs Harbour”, mainly to reflect the frenzy of development at Fort Knox and the adventure routes of the Nymboida Gorge.

Also around that time, Mal Drummond, Bruce Jones and others revisited Godzone, put the first route up at Never Never and Music Hall and E. Houton also upped the top grade to 28 with his ascent of 'Shit Chick' at Wonderland although the date and details of this ascent are a mystery. Apparently he had just broken up with his girlfriend and was taking his anger out on the rock...

Bunyip was found by Tristan Ricketts & Paul Daniel sometime around 1999. Unfortunately they only got a few routes done before Tristan got a job and moved to Sydney. Luckily Marc Bailey and Terry Bernutt were there to finish the job.

2002 saw the guidebook move into the digital era with the development of Bruce Jones website www.verticalmania.com.

From 2002 to 2005, Marc, Terry and Peter Higgs established some of the best and longest routes in the area at Never Never and Bruce Jones established Kilowatts.

The Scones was 'rediscovered' by Ben Whittaker and Artie Schultz in the mid 2000's, who bought a modern bouldering ethic to the area. They established around 30 problems from short and steep through to high and scary including what is probably the best boulder problem in the area 'The Kremonator' (V5).

The Waglands moved into the Area in 2009. The father and son team of Dave and Nick bolted a number of hard projects and routes around the Motherlode' area and elsewhere at Fort Knox. Nick also dispatched the abandoned project at Wonderland, establishing 'Defence Mode' (27), at age 16!

In 2010 Steve Hawkshaw and Artie Schultz established Obscurity Wall and Steve and Brian Cork put up the first recorded routes at Waihoo after getting rained out of climbing day and deciding to bush bash instead. It turns out Marc Bailey had been secretly sniffing around there too.

In 2011 Steve got a new drill and gave Fort Knox a second wind. In a (relative) spurt of new route activity Steve and his cronies unearthed a number of hidden gems, many of which were moderately graded and had been overlooked amongst the harder lines.

In 2012, Allan Ezzy finally sent an abandoned project to establish the hardest line at Fort Knox 'Monkey See, Monkey Do (28)' and Steve re-discovered the Twilight Wall (also at Knox) which had somehow been mostly overlooked even though it is about 50m from the parking lot!

2013 continued to see the addition of routes at many established crags (mostly Knox and Waihoo) as well as the beginning of the replacement of many of the aged bolts on the most popular routes, thanks to the dedication of Steve.

There has also been a lot of unrecorded development in the Glenreagh area over the years as is evident by the discovery of old bolts and pitons in the search for 'new' routes.

Note: Please feel free to edit or fill in the blanks of this history.

1.1. Fort Knox 99 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.035428, -30.037402

Unique Features And Strengths:

The Largest concentration of routes and great rock in the Coffs Area

Description:

Great crag with most routes in the 21-27 range. Majority of routes are on fixed hangers or ring bolts but a few need bolt plates and pieces of gear. Some climbs stay dry in the rain.

Approach:

Access from the top

Access to the top of the crag provides an easier walk but needs car with decent clearance as it can be bumpy.

Top Access from Coffs Harbour:

Take the Pacific Highway North. After about 14km turn west onto Bucca road. Set your odometer to zero here and use the following mileages:

  1. After about 4.6km turn right onto Sherwood Forest Road

  2. 12.1km stay left at the junction with Marys Waterhole road.

  3. 15.1km stay left a the junction with Plum Pudding Road.3

  4. 21km go straight ahead/right at the junction with Waihoo Rd.

  5. 25.8km turn right onto Conglomerate Trail.

  6. 27.3km turn right onto Get Lost Trail.

  7. 28.1km park at the end of the road.

From end of road there is a walking track heading down the hill. Walk about 200m down the hill, cross a creek and continue another 50m until a vague track veers right. The track then traverses left around to the Strong Room.

Access is also available via Nana Glen however Waihoo road is often in a poor state so it is best to use the access outlined above. If you are approaching via Nana Glen:

At Nana Glen turn east onto Bucca Rd. After 1.5km turn left onto Morrows Rd and set your odomenter to zero:

  1. 0.0km - Follow Morrows Rd for a few kilometers where it forks.

  2. 5.0km - Take the right fork across the railway line. The road now becomes Waihou Rd. Keep going up zig zags until you reach Sherwood Forest Rd

  3. 12.3km - Turn a sharp left onto Sherwood Forest Road. Continue along Sherwood Forest Road until you reach Conglomerate Trail (sign posted) on your right.

  4. 17.2km - Turn right into Conglomerate Trail (4 Wheel drive) and travel for approx. 1.5 km to the junction of Get Lost Trail and Brush Trail.

  5. 19.7km - Veer right down Get Lost Trail and continue on.

  6. 20.5km - Park at end of road. From end of road there is a walking track heading down the hill. Cross a creek and continue another 50m until a vague tack veers right which will take you to the strong room. A fairly well worn trail continues along the top of the cliffs and can be used to access pooh wall.

Bottom Access

Use this if you are coming in with a 2wd. Total distance from Glenreagh (start) to bottom of Fort Knox is 9.5km.

  1. 0.0km - From Glenreagh follow Sherwood Ck Rd east, which crosses the river and heads to railway line

  2. 0.8km - After Railway line turn Left running parallel with the tracks before veering right into and changing to a windy dirt road.

  3. 5.0km - You will cross a bridge over ‘Middle Creek’.

  4. 8.0km - You will hit tar again in a lower section of the road. This is a small section of tar before it changes to dirt again. Turn right here, off this tarred bit, down Athol Glen Rd. There is a sawmill over to the right about 100m in from the road.

  5. 9.1km - a gravelly road veers off and up to the right (no gates), take this road which goes up to sand mine area. Park off to the side. AT THE MOMENT THE LAST ROAD IS WASHED OUT AT THIS TURN OFF. PARK HERE AND WALK UP TRAIL.

At old sand quarry walk diagonally across the other side of the sand pit (30m). Turn left on the other side and walk along the edge of the quarry (heading south) until you get to the end of the quarry. Continue to follow 4wd track for another 150m or so and a track will head off right. Its an obvious track so keep walking till you see it.. Walk up this track, it will steepen suddenly and become a walking track following old rock cairns. Head uphill and tend left until you reach the cliff, probably around the 'The Alcove' or 'Andy Goodvibe's Wall'.

Ethic:

Fort Knox is a sport Crag. There are a few trad lines or mixed routes and theses are marked as such but in general you can have a great day with a handful of quickdraws and a rope.

History:

Fort knox was discovered by Ben Christian and Jeff Gracie on their way to a winter climbing break from Armidale to visit Wonderland crag. After quickly realising the crags potential they met up with he rest of the Armidale crew and moved camp from Wonderlands to the infamous ‘Camp Butthole’ (where the top car park now is but camping is now banned). The first route to be completed was Gordon Lows 'Missing Monkeys' and by the end of the week another 20 routes had been completed. Most of the early development occurred in 1996 and 1997 which was still early days for sport climbing in Australia so some of the anchors are a little experimental! A number of routes on Pooh wall were added in 2001 which pretty much ended the development of new routes at Knox until late 2009 when the Waglands moved into the Area. Nick and Dave bolted a number of hard projects ('Overshadowed' 26 being the pick of the completed ones) and with the aid of others put up a number of routes around the Motherlode' area. In 2011 Steve Hawkshaw showed up with a new drill and gave the main crag a second wind. In a spurt of new route activity Steve and his cronies unearthed a number of hidden gems which have provided a lot more in the 16-20 grade range, many of which had been overlooked amongst the harder lines. In 2012, Allan Ezzy finally sent an abandoned project to establish the hardest line at the cliff 'Monkey See, Monkey Do (28)' and Steve re-discovered the Twilight Wall which had somehow been mostly overlooked even though it is about 50m from the parking lot!

1.1.1. Twilight Zone 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 153.037121, -30.040483

Approach:

Twilight Zone is located under the upper Knox Carpark. To Access it head diagonally left (facing towards cliff) from the car park and down a ramp, then back under the cliff to access to climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT

1 ** Uzi Packing Drug Lords

Up Wall on Trad Gear

17Trad 12m
2 Dr Farquhar's Space Age Sleeping Vessel

Up flack and through bulge

14Trad 12m
3 * Carnage At The Mouse Machine

climbs the right leaning orange crack

15Trad 12m
4 When Twighlight Turns To Dark

the corner crack on left of wall

FA: J. Gracie, T. Hill, 1996

13Trad 15m
5 35 Degrees

Up short corner and wall through overlap and up to anchors.

16Mixed 15m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 * Convergence

left trending steep wall past 4 RB's

20Sport 10m, 4

The Next wall and routes is down and left project

7 The New Oriental Chinese Restaurant

Up Crack and wall on trad gear.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1998

23Trad
8 Project

Start just left of Crack. Needs Independent finish. sharp!

23Sport 15m, 5
9 * New Moon

Hard boulder problem through Rooflet and crack then up head wall as for TDK

FA: Alan Ezzy, 2013

26Sport 12m, 3
10 The Dark Knight

Up SF for 1 bolt then step right and up face.

19Sport 12m, 4
11 ** Solar Flare

Up orange wall and white streak.

20Sport 13m, 4
12 * Paranormal

up the black and yellow streak wall past flake and rooflet

22Sport 13m, 4
13 Poltergeist

Unknown entity. left line of hangers to chains

18Sport 12m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 Breaking Dawn

Up through Rooflet to anchor.

16Sport 10m, 3
15 Close Encounters

Up left yellow wall.

19Sport 8m, 3

1.1.2. Wild Dog 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

Wild Dog Wall are directly below the upper Fort Knox car park but at the bottom of the valley (two tiers down)

Approach:

head down towards the twilight zone but instead of cutting back continue diagonally downhill (towards creek) to get down another tier in the cliff. once you are down next tier cut back under cliff until you reach the wall. Its a bit further than you think it will be.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Moon Shadow

Start on face and cnr crack below first BR and fig tree. Can solo to first BR. Follow BR and crack line to top. (Don't use tree) 5 BR's plus SLCD. Tree Belay Single BR for directional.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

21Mixed 20m, 5
2 Gopher

Up to big bowl, then up to tree. All gear

15Unknown 15m
3 Adder

5m right of Moon Shadow. Follow crack to top. Finish to the right of tree. Crux at top. Most of the climb is 16-18 but the top move is a little scary and is about 19. Natural Pro and belay.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

19Trad 20m
4 Sting

1m right of 'Adder'. Up face to tree. 3BRs plus SLCD's. Tree Belay.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

23Mixed 15m, 3
5 Monkey Boots

The arete 5/6m right of 'Adder'. Start around on the right face. Use brass offset or RP past first BR. A little contrived but generally follow arete and BR's. Beware Chossy rock. 5 BR's plus 2 natural. DB Belay.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

18Mixed 19m, 5
6 Stoned

The second obvious crack to the right of 'Monkey Boots'. Crack to tree then Cnr crack to top. Beware loose rocks. Natural Pro and Belay.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

16Trad 15m

1.1.3. Niles Roof Area 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 153.036394, -30.039351

Description:

About 10m below and 30m left of 'The Strong Room'

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Niles Roof

From ledge in middle of wall, if you're short step onto cairn, then jugs and trend left through jugs and rail to lower of 5th hanger

24Sport 8m, 5
2 Project Sport

1.1.4. Strong Room 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The first section of cliff that you approach from the top car park. The climbs are described from left tonight. This contains a good selection of moderate routes. The middle section of the cliff can drip after rain. Most routes are equipped with fixed hangers and chain anchors.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dicky Seat

First route on left end of cliff, past two bolts to lower off.

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1996

22Sport 7m, 2
2 * White Lane

Two ring bolts, big move from pockets to the break, lower off.

FA: Nic Wagland, David Wagland, 2009

23Sport 7m, 2
3 Black And White

Line right of NR. Up wall to lower off

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1996

24Sport 8m
4 Shane Of The Jungle

The small roof right of BAW. Go up through the roof and wall with small pockets

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

23Sport 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 * Jeff's Live Round

3 hangers to chain

FA: Jeff Gracie

21Sport 8m, 3
6 Jeff's Orange Barf

Up the wall with 3 bolts to shared lower off with JLR.

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

24Sport 10m, 3
7 Spanking Monkeys

Short corner crack then up through breaks to top, natural gear.

FA: J. Langston, 1997

19Trad 10m
8 Unknown

heads straight up orange wall

24Sport 12m, 3
9 Homo Gordonis

Becoming a classic, a tall man’s nemesis.

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

25Sport 12m
10 Unknown 2

Heads left and up wall to finish at anchors as for HG

25Sport 12m, 4
11 ** Missing Monkeys / Missin Munkins

A bit run out up high, 3 bolts to chain. Originally graded 21 but harder now the flake at the top of the crux has been ripped off. Still an excellent route.

FA: Gordon Low, 1996

22Sport 15m, 3
12 (Unknown 1)

Shares a few holds with MM. Run out up high, safest to exit to anchors at MM, beware the tree.

24Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Hilti Hijackers

Good fun. Great warm up. Can take a medium cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to reduce the runout.

FA: Jeff Gracie, Tim Hill, 1996

16Sport 15m
14 Thin Red Line

4m right of 'Hilti Hijackers', and around the corner on the East facing wall. Up to obvious small ledge then up seemingly empty wall, finish at anchors for MDS. 2 BRs

FA: Tristan Ricketts, 2000

20Mixed 12m, 2
15 ** Magic Dick Sixteen

Right of TRL. Classic, technical climbing through big pockets. 3 bolts to lower off.

FA: T. Walters, 1997

21Sport 15m, 3
16 *** Agent Scully

Climb the arete to chains. 4 FHs.

FA: Ben Christian

27Sport 15m, 4
17 * Leaking Boy Beno

To the right of AS, up the wall into the roof (3 bolts), a big move to clip the 4th bolt then continue up corner past another bolt to clip chain up high.

FA: Gordon Low, 1998

25Sport 16m, 4
18 Agent Mulder

Old abandoned project. Start 5m right of LBB. Up through steep roof past 2 RB and 2 FH to anchor over mantle.

FA: S Hawkshaw

24Sport 15m, 5

1.1.5. The Alcove 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

Beautiful curved orange wall just past the strong room. Some routes stay dry in the rain.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 New Slang

first bolt of TVLJ then step left and up to anchors

24Sport 15m, 5
2 *** Tim's Vital Life Juice

Powerful & pumpy, well worth doing. Climb the arete, 4 bolts to lower off

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

23Sport 15m, 4
3 *** Laaabia

Variant finish to WMV, go left at fourth bolt past a fifth and up to chain.

FA: Ben Christian, 1997

27Sport 15m, 5
4 *** White Man's Voodoo

Up wall past 4 bolts, hard moves at top. Originally graded at 26.

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

25Sport 15m, 4
5 Elders Voodoo

Start as for elders have wisdom then up left to anchors for WMV

24Sport Project 12m, 5
6 Elders Have Wisdom

Up orange wall tending right to anchors on JW

FA: M. Schmidt, 1997

23 RSport 16m, 5
7 * John West

Climbs Black Arete on left of wall. Fun pockets at start then edges up high. Direct start from ground or traverse in from ledge

FA: S Hawkshaw

20Sport 12m, 5
8 ** The Malloy

A tribute. Great moves, deceptively pumpy, left hand edge of ledge. Can be started from ground now. REBOLTED FEB 14

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1997

22Sport 15m, 5
9 Wet Patch

up wall just right of the Malloy.

FA: R Ferguson, G Ferguson

23Sport 15m, 6
10 * Lewis The Crag Dog

Start 5m right of TM, off ledge and up past the crack on NP to bulge and past 4 bolts to lower off.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

24Sport 15m, 4
11 ** Marty's Route

Starts under obvious overhung Scoop at top of wall. Anchor and final bolt replaced July 2011

FA: Unknown, 2000

24Sport 16m, 5
12 Prize Winning Duck

Start as for HOC or there is an optional direct start. Up wall to mantle ledge and anchor under roof.

FA: S Hawkshaw

18Sport 10m, 4
13 House of Cards

Start under block. Optional first bolt clip or skip it. Up orange face to anchors under roof. Could be extension through roof.

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2011

19Sport 12m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 ** Milk and Honey

Start under obvious pocket. Up Past 2 original fixed hangers then straight up steep wall past 3 RB's to anchor.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2011

21Sport 15m, 5
15 * Wisdom Of Youth VS

Two FH's protect moves through the pockets to join original route.

FA: Gareth Lewellin, Aaron Jones

23Sport 15m, 5
16 * Wisdom Of Youth

The middle of the Alcove, monkey up on big holds until suddenly… there's nothing… much. Don't cheat by traversing right. 5 bolts.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

23Sport 20m, 5
17 *** Sex And Drugs On The Rock And Roll

Simply great. Campus start if you’re short. Power up past 7 bolts to chain and possible small cam in horizontal break near the top.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

23Sport 15m, 7
18 ** Kanoon

The corner at the right hand end. Up the corner on natural gear, clip bolt before huge move. Head left to anchors.

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1997

24Mixed 12m, 4
19 * Poor Man On Bourbon Street

Start as for 'Kanoon', then tend right and up thin wall to anchor

FA: Ben Christian, 1997

26Sport 15m, 6
20 ** Alter Ego

Start as for first 4 bolts on Bourbon Street but then continue right to the arete past 2 ring bolts and back left to anchor.

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2012

24Sport 12m, 5
21 * Bourbon Street Direct

Direct start for PMOBS, 1 bolt to join main route.

FA: James Scarborough, 1999

26Sport 15m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 * Groovin the Move

Starts at end of ledge 50m past bourbon street. Climb tree to gain over hanging belay ledge. Up flake then out left to gain arête and up airily to anchors on ledge.

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2012

23Sport 10m, 4

1.1.6. Narcissus Roof 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

This area is below the Alcove, to reach it walk straight down from the Alcove. Then down and right of the big block to the roof.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Narcissus Raining Down

It’s the only route on the wall. Up past 2 bolts and a piece of gear to roof, and last bolt to lower off

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

21Mixed 10m, 3

1.1.7. Goodvibes Wall 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Will of the Word

Climbs up wall traversing left to top out passing 5 Carrots. No Anchor

FA: Bruce Jones, 1996

23Sport 15m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Corky's Crack

Up the nice corner crack, step left around the roof and then tend right to the bolts at the lip.

FA: Brian Cork, 1997

15Trad 15m
3 Stealth Mode

About 2m right of Corkys Crack. Up the wall past 2 bolts and then through the rooflet on trad gear. Anchor bolts at the lip. A little bit spicy.

FA: Brian Cork, Toby Holmes, 2012

16Mixed 15m, 2
4 * Steves Preposterous Hypothesis

Up featured wall 5m left of andy goodvibes

FA: Brian Cork, 2012

18Sport 15m, 7
5 * Pimp My Vagrant Ride

Up slab 2m left of AG. A fine route with lots of interesting holds and moves.

FA: L Gray, 2012

22Sport 15m, 5
6 *** Andy Goodvibes

A fantastic slab with a great little crux roof. The orange streak about 15m right of 'Corky's crack'. Up pockets on orange section, then crux move onto the gray slab with progressively better moves to the top.

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1996

22Sport 18m, 7
7 Adventures In Retro Land

3m right of AG, step right on good foot holds to reach the first bolt. Follow bolts to lower off. Carrots

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

22Sport 20m, 4
8 * Sneaky Snake Flake

One of the longest routes at Knox. Same start and first bolt as CT. Stick clip. Strenuously through the roof and then a rising traverse through a series of cool flakes. Probably only about 17 after the tricky start.

FA: Brian Cork, Brad Poidevin, 2013

20Sport 20m, 5
9 * Cosmic Turtle

Start on the arête at the start of the big ledge/cave, 15m R of AG. Stick clip. Traverse left along the rails and then straight up the featured face.

FA: Brian Cork, 2013

20Sport 15m, 4
10 * Fashion Nugget

The corner/arete 2m right of CT. Stick clip first bolt, Jug up to a tricky move or two in the corner to the arête and then right up the face. Nice pockets up high.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

22Sport 15m
11 * Rubik's Roof 27Sport 15m
12 Ally Cat and the Puppet Show

Obvious Corner Crack. Up into the juggy corner, around the roof and up a nice hand crack to a tree.

FA: Brian Cork, 2011

17Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Project 2?

Hard looking roof through hangers

Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 Monkey See, Monkey Do

Start in Back of cave, out through 5m roof to gain headwall and up.

FA: Alan Ezzy, 2012

28Sport 15m
15 ** Allypop And The Ice-Man

The right most route on the corner. First clip hanger from ledge, then power through some great juggy roof moves onto slopers then up face to chains.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

25Sport 15m, 4

1.1.8. Pooh Wall 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

Good warmups or beginner routes. This is named after a famous animal character, not the famous poo dog. It is the slabby wall right of the descent gully at the end of 'Goodvibes Wall'. Much potential still exists especially for beginners. There are some natural lines that have been done through the horizontal breaks here but have not been recorded.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Christopher Robbin: Toy Boy

Left most climb on Pooh Wall. 2 bolts to rings.

FA: Paul Daniel, Tristan Ricketts, 2001

16Sport 12m, 2
2 Piglet Gets Porked

3 bolts, finish as per CRTB

FA: Paul Daniel, Tristan Ricketts, 2001

17Sport 15m, 3
3 Pooh Gets A Dip In The Honey Pot

1m right of PGP. 2 bolts and a fixed hanger, finish as per TM.

FA: Tristan Ricketts, Paul Daniel, 2001

19Sport 12m, 2
4 Tigger's Mark

Start at yellow paw print on wall at knee height. 1m right of PGADITHP, 2 bolts to rings.

FA: M. Cloonan, Tristan Ricketts, Paul Daniel, 2001

18Sport 12m, 2
5 Eeor's Tail

1m right of TM. Natural gear (cams) in breaks, 1 fixed hanger, finish at rings above TM

FA: Martin Cloonan, Tristan Ricketts, 2001

17Mixed 12m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Pale Pooh Streak

15m right of ET. Up the big pale streak at the large tree. Up line of bolts to 2 large fixed hangers.

16Sport 12m
7 The Enchanted Place

2m right of the pale streak. 2 bolts to chains. This climb is purposely run out, so take some natural pro for the breaks if that worries you.

FA: Tristan Ricketts, Paul Daniel, 2001

16Sport 12m, 3
8 * Winnie The Pooh Goes Honey Hunting

In the middle of the wall, great climb for beginners, up the wall past nicely spaced bolts to a lower off in the groove down right of the tree.

FA: H. Friedberg, Jeff Gracie, 1997

17Sport 12m
9 Pooh Scoop

4m right of WTPGHH. Through the large scoop, six bolts (!) to chains at back of large scoop at top. The position of these chains means the rope is running over an edge for the lower off but the chains at WTPGHH can be used as an alternative. Apparently this was set up as a trainer for lead climbing.

15Sport 14m, 6
10 Paint Spot

3m right of WTPGHH around where there is a dish like depression half way up.

FA: Bruce Jones, Clarkson Walter, 1998

14Trad
11 Brush Strokes

1m right of PS

FA: Bruce Jones, Clarkson Walter, 1998

14Trad
12 Piglet Plays the Jugs (aka Pooh Scoop)

Bottomless to BR, then up black rock on gear

14Sport 14m

1.1.9. The Motherlode 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 153.033561, -30.034424

Description:

Features a massive overhang

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Overshadowed

This route was originally conceived by G. Low and he placed some bolts and the chain at the roof. Nic Wagland competed the climb adding several rings. This great route begins with a weakness through the low horizontal roof and then follows the prominent arête. A good rest can be had before the final steep double sided column that leads to the chains..

FA: Nick Wagland

26Sport 25m
2 Shadow

The corner crack, all natural gear, traverse right at the top to join the anchors of TB.

FA: Toby Holmes, 2009

12Trad 12m
3 Toilet Bowl

The closed seam leading into the crack and bowl. Nice easy beginners climb,

FA: David Wagland, 2009

14Sport 12m, 4
4 Project Sport Project
5 Rabid

Natural crack split through blank slab to double ring belay

FA: David Wagland, 2009

16Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Hair of the Dog

20 metres around the corner from R. Natural gear, 2 large cams are useful. Offwidth start leads to small grassy ledge. Over bulge then traverse right and up gully. Top out for tree belay.

FA: Toby Holmes, 2009

17Trad
7 Hairy Dog

Start 5 meters right of HOTD up finger crack in corner topped by what appears to be a loose block (actually solidly wedged) then traverse left and join HOTD. Avoids offwidth start.

FA: Toby Holmes, 2009

17Trad 20m
8 Sickle

A fantastic obvious crack line. Horizontal breaks lead to fist jams followed by finger crack to ledge. Small to medium cams and wires.

FA: Rhys Van Gastel, Toby Holmes, 2009

21Trad 15m

1.2. Sherwood Buttress 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 153.021293, -30.013095

Description:

A good mix of easier routes in a beautiful bushland setting. Most routes require a mix of sport and traditional gear (requiring bolt plates). The area is popular for top roping but the belays nearly all require traditional gear and are quite tricky to arrange. Bring lots of slings or extra rope to assist in setting up belay anchors.

Access Issues:

The area is in Sherwood Nature Reserve. Climbing is fine. Check with the local climbers before considering any bolting. The area is relatively popular with hikers.

Approach:

The smoothest drive is out along Coramba Rd from Coffs Harbour to Glenreagh, with the last five minutes being good unsealed road. This makes for an easy drive in any type of car. Allow an hours travelling time from Coffs Harbour. Drive west out of town along Coramba Rd. You will pass through Karangi, Coramba, and Nana Glen on the way, just as you come to Glenreagh turn right, cross the Orara river then cross the railway track, turn left and follow this along the track to the dirt. The road then leads you up and over the first ridge and down to a bridge at Middle Creek. Approx. 1.1km past the Middle Creek bridge is the parking area for Sherwood Rock. At an obvious left hand turn there is a clearing on the left with a larger tree and a sign marking ‘Sherwood Nature Reserve’, park here. To access the climbing. Walk up the hill past the sign, duck under the fence and then follow the ridge slightly uphill. After 5 minutes you will see the rock appear above you. Using the Woolgoolga map 9537-4-N, Sherwood Rock is at map reference 020 791, with the climbing around the spot height marked on the map as 203.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tink Tink

Farthest left climb on cliff. 1 BR and medium wires. Natural belay

FA: Danny Rose

16Mixed 8m, 1
2 Irish Dorks

2m right of TT. 1BR, Medium wires, Natural belay.

FA: Danny Rose

17Mixed 8m, 1
3 * Maddened Monk

3 BR's and NP

FA: Bruce Jones

18Mixed 8m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Exit Right Pursued By Bear

Start under obvious crack on left side of face. Up wall past 1 BR then natural gear to top out

FA: Danny Rose

19Mixed 8m, 1
5 Monks Alive

3 BR's & NP at start

FA: Bruce Jones

18Mixed 10m, 3
6 Love And Marriage

2m right of the left arete of the open book corner. Vere left above overhang. Finish left of tree. Natural Pro, tree belay.

FA: Danny Rose

16Trad 8m
7 Divorce

1m right of ‘Love and Marriage’. Up obvious chunky route to right of tree Natural pro, tree belay

13Trad 8m
8 Ethan's Tears

1m right of ‘Divorce’ upon delicate flaky holds. 1BR, crux past first bolt. Natural belay

FA: Danny Rose

15Mixed 8m, 1
9 Annulment

Flakes and edges 2m left of "what crack"

FA: Toby Holmes

16Unknown 8m
10 What Crack

Solo or top rope the corner chimney

FA: Danny Rose

12Unknown 8m
11 * Disbelief

1m right of corner. Face climb. 1BR and small wire. Bring medium cams for belay.

FA: Danny Rose, Shiloh Rose

18Mixed 8m, 1
12 ** Parting Gesture

3m right of ‘Disbelief’. Excellent technical climbing. 2BR’s and small wires near top. DBB belay 4m back.

FA: Danny Rose, Bruce Jones

23Mixed 8m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 * King Billie Coke Bottle

Start as for ‘Parting Gesture’. Traverse right to arete then up pastdubious gear to DBB. Excellent top rope route

FA: Danny Rose

18Trad 8m
14 Enema Tree

2m right of ‘KBCB’. Good climbing poor protection. Better to tope rope. DBB.

FA: Danny Rose

17Trad 8m
15 Cheese Cutter

2m right of ‘Enema Tree’. Nice climbing on good but hard to find natural gear through small overhang up face to left of arete. DBB.

FA: Danny Rose

18Trad 8m
16 Sally The Race Car Driver

2m crack on west face

FA: M. Kelly

16Trad 8m
17 *** Birthday Suit

Gotta do it !! Blunt arete approx 10m to the right off ‘Cheese Cutter’. Start on ledge, very tricky start takes you past 2BR’s and small cam to tree belay.

FA: Danny Rose

21Mixed 8m, 2
18 (Project)

6m right of Birthday Suit. Up following the series of shallow, flaring seams. The feet are quite spaced apart and therefore consists of many powerful moves from very high heel hooks with minuscule gastons and sidepulls in the seams supported by an array of similarly sized sidepulls, crimps and slopers. It is very sustained and will probably be graded somewhere between 25 - 27.. At 3/4 height the climb eases into a naturally protected flake which leads to a break and a cruisy head wall. Needs 2 bolts lower down.

Trad Project 12m
19 *** Sherrif

Approx 8m right of Birthday Suite. Left traverse start then up pretty concaved orange wall passing 2BR's and natural pro up top.

FA: Danny Rose

23Mixed 8m, 2
20 Denali And Sequoia

5m right of ‘Sherriff’. Crack climb. Tree belay

FA: Marty Scmidt

19Trad 8m

1.3. Waihoo 24 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 153.031392, -30.084883

Unique Features And Strengths:

Lots of steep rock and new route potential. 90 second walk in.

Description:

Faces South so in shade much of the day.

Approach:

Park 1.3km West of Waihoo Road/ Sherwood Forest Road intersection in small pull in on the left hand side of the road. Walk up mountain bike track for 90 seconds until you go up a little rock step then duck down left and you're at 'Hero Wall'. To get to the bottom Caves and Route, head diagonally down hill along the ramp below 'The Pretender'.

Driving directions from Coffs Harbour are as follows:

Take the Pacific Highway North. After about 14km turn west onto Bucca road. Set your odometer to zero here and use the following mileages:

  1. After about 4.6km turn right onto Sherwood Forest Road

  2. 12.1km stay left at the junction with Marys Waterhole road.

  3. 15.1km stay left a the junction with Plum Pudding Road.3

  4. 21km go straight ahead/right at the junction with Waihoo Rd.

  5. 22.3km park on the left in a small parking spot.

Access is also available via Nana Glen however Waihoo road is often in a poor state so it is best to use the access outlined above. If you are approaching via Nana Glen:

At Nana Glen turn east onto Bucca Rd. After 1.5km turn left onto Morrows Rd and set your odomenter to zero:

  1. 0.0km - Follow Morrows Rd for a few kilometers where it forks.

  2. 5.0km - Take the right fork across the railway line. The road now becomes Waihou Rd. Keep going up zig zags until you reach Sherwood Forest Rd

  3. 12.3km - Turn a sharp left onto Sherwood Forest Road.

  4. 13.6km park on the left in a small parking spot.

Ethic:

A mixed of sport and trad routes but all the routes are well equiped with lower offs and solid bolts

1.3.1. Hero Wall 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 153.032692, -30.086207

Description:

First wall you come to. has some great routes and compact rock.

Approach:

90 seconds from car

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Yosemite Action Hero

The first good piece of rock on the cliff line and possibly the closest sandstone route to Coffs?? Climb arête past 2 bolts. Most people think this route is harder than 19 but Artie refuses to give such a short route a harder grade. Let's call it 'stout'.

FFA: Artie Schultz, 2011

19Sport 6m, 2
2 Salsa

4m left of Yosemite Action Hero. Very punchy through rooflet.

FFA: Toby Holmes, 2012

21Sport 7m, 2
3 Beached DS

Stick clip ring and climb bouldery start to Beached

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2012

21Sport 15m, 4
4 Beached

Start as for FSA then veer right and up thin slab to anchors on ledge

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2011

18Sport 12m, 4
5 Beached Az

As for beached then Continue up steep headwall from ledge to finish with hands on top of cliff. Beware of some loose rock. Needs Anchor

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2011

22Sport 18m, 6
6 Former Special Agent

Climb arête past 3 rb and some finesse

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2011

24Sport 12m, 3
7 Nicks Project

thin face and Arete. looks hard

Sport Project 13m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Release The Hounds

The Obvious trad corner crack in centre of wall. Up to ledge and anchors above FSA

FFA: Brian Cork, 2011

16Trad 12m
9 ** Super Grover

A juggy roof that is way easier than it looks from the ground. 3 bolt slab with pockets to ledge, take a breather and then campus into the roof on massive jugs and up through more steep terrain to a lower off below small tree.

FFA: Brian Cork, 2011

19Sport 18m, 6
10 *** Synchronicity

Climb flake and arete to get to 5m horizontal roof. Fire our roof near finger crack to anchors over lip.

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2011

25Trad 12m
11 * The Pretender

The amazing looking, yellow, honey-comb roof 15m left of Super Grover. Up wall and then crank out the 3-4m horizontal roof on jugs and pockets to finish on holds over the lip.

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2011

22Sport 15m, 5
12 Scribblenaut

Fun face route.

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2012

21Sport 12m, 4
13 Conjunctivitis

All Trad up crack and left at top to anchor for TST

FFA: Toby Holmes, 2012

17Trad 10m
14 The Slippery Truth

wall just left of offwidth

FFA: Toby Holmes, 2012

19Sport 15m, 4

1.3.2. Soundgarden Cave 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 153.031840, -30.085281

Description:

The next tier down from 'Hero Wall', about 100m further on. Steep cave. Lots of potential for short difficult sport lines.

Approach:

Take the vague trail directly below the Pretender at Hero Wall, follow down to the right. follow for about 100-150 metres, at one point goes along a narrow ledge with 10 metre drop below.

History:

Only a few routes so far. Down On The Upside was the first route to go up in 2011, then Talking Marmots and Arboretum in 2012. Still quite a lot of potential.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Brian pro

At start of cave. First 5 bolts are in but roof finish is not complete.

Sport Project 15m, 5
2 ** Down on the Upside

The prominent prow feature in the centre of the first part of the cave. Turn the hard roof down low to a rest, then follow overhung prow and roof above to lower offs. Can be done in all but the heaviest of rain. Six ring bolts and double ring lower offs.

FFA: Arthur Schultz, 2011

FA: Arthur Schultz, 2011

22Sport 15m, 5
3 ** Talking Marmots

2m left of DotU. Boulders start then up steep wall to clip anchors on lip of roof

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2012

23Sport 12m, 6
4 Arboretum

Start left side of cave. Bouldery start, up through bulge and headwall to anchors

FFA: Alan Ezzy, 2012

25Sport 18m, 5

1.3.3. White Wall 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 153.031191, -30.084732

Description:

Obvious white streaked wall about 100m past soundgarden Cave

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project 1

Right route on white wall

Sport 15m, 3
2 Project 2

Middle route

Sport 4
3 Art Project

obvious left line of the wall

Sport 6

1.3.4. Deliverance Area 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 153.030259, -30.083935

Description:

Higher section of Waihoo with longer mixed routes

Approach:

Continue on past cave for a couple of hundred metres.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sanction of the Victim

Climb 4 to 5m through slightly reachy and mildly overhung section until small arete is reached . Move up this for a few metres and then move into corner , use corner and wall until crack is reached then up crack to lower off chains

FA: Marc Bailey lead Jen Marshall 2nd, 2011

19Mixed 32m, 4
2 Concerto of Deliverence

start near beehive. still a project

Trad 32m
3 * Iago

Start as for CoD. Up first 4 bolts on CoD (hangers needed) then step head up and leftward to steep headwall and anchors. Beware of loose rock in the first half, a 60m rope will just get you back to the ground.

FFA: alan ezzy

Set by alan ezzy

24Sport 32m, 8

1.4. Obscurity Wall 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 153.004382, -30.042457

Description:

A 15m wall with 5 fun sport routes. Faces west so get the sun from about midday. Is a good crag to take kids as it is pretty flat at the base.

Access Issues:

It has the same parking area as the God Zone. Access from the top (2wd) From Coffs Harbour go out along Coramba Road to Nana Glen. At Nana Glen turn right onto Bucca Rd. Continue on across a bridge until you come to a road on the left called Morrows Rd. Turn Left into Morrows Road and set your odomenter to zero:

  1. 0.0km - Follow Morrows Rd for a few kilometers where it forks.

  2. 5.0km - Take the right fork across the railway line. The road now becomes Waihou Rd. Keep going up zig zags until you reach Sherwood Forest Rd

  3. 12.3km - Turn a sharp left onto Sherwood Forest Road. Continue along Sherwood Forest Road until you reach Conglomerate Trail (sign posted) on your right.

  4. Drive Past Communications tower and the road heads down and right.

  5. you will come to a creek crossing. park here. you can drive through easily with a 4wd but the water is deepeer than it first looks.

Alternatively you can access Sherwood Forest Road from Bucca road 5km from Pacific Hwy and it is in better condition than waihoo road at the moment.

Walk up the road slightly then follow the ridge upward for about 100m to a small rocky boulder. At the boulder head over the ridge and contour around for another 50m and until you can see the prominent arete next to caught on film.

Approach:

5 minutes walk from car, slightly uphill

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Caught on Film

Start on left side of wall and head up rightward past 4 bolts to anchors

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw

20Sport 13m, 5
2 Chubba The Hutt

Start as for CoF for 3 Bolts then head up right through step wall

FFA: Artie Schultz

22Sport 15m, 5
3 Pixelated

Climb TT for 2 bolts then steep left onto Orange section. Head up past three more bolts to anchors.

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw

22Sport 15m, 5
4 ** Time Thief

Up through bulge at start then slightly overhung wall on thin yellow streak. 6 Rings

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw

24Sport 15m, 6
5 Wet Celebrations

Start under large Yellow Streak, Up past overlap and on left side of cave.

FFA: Artie Schultz

23Sport 15m, 5

1.5. Never Never 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.998671, -30.060044

Description:

One of the larger cliffs in the area. It faces South so stays shaded most of the day. The area called dead mans cave stays dry after rain due to the roof capping it.

Approach:

Access to Never Never Land is a little tricky. Follow Sherwood forest road and at the communications tower (6.2km north of Waihoo Rd) turn left. Drive 1.4km and park at end of the road (be careful near end unless you have 4WD),

Walkin acceess: walk approx 80m back up the road to a rock cairn and a track that will head west back towards car park but in bush. follow down hill and roughly leftward until you find rock cairn and rocky drop offs. Head down these and then south (left facing out) and around the ridge and follow cliff line back east. The track will drop down a little from cliff line and eventually you will get to dead mans cave (15mins walk) which is the obvious orange wall capped by a roof

Abseil access: ...

1.5.1. Hide and Seek Wall 4 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Wall about 150m before you get to Never Never when walking in , up high when the track heads down, head up instead. A bit of a pain to get up to , a little scrambling and grade 6 -7 climbing for a few metres

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Joes Climb (Project)

above chain belay on ledge. This climb is more to the left on wall it is very obvious crack . Finish at ledge at chains.

Trad
2 Tinker Bells Big Brother

Hard to get to start as a little obscure and a short climb involved , but climb up at left end of this area and gingerly make your way to centre of wall . Traverse left and up for 6m past 1 ring bolt then up for 3m to another ring then up and right using big overlap.Finish at chains.

FFA: Marc Bailey lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012

FA: Marc Bailey lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012

19Mixed 20m, 2
3 Sneak it In (Project)

Start as per Tinker Bells BB but only traverse left for a few metres and then follow rings straight up. Project Marc Bailey

Trad Project 17m
4 Lets Zouk

Start as per TBBB but at ring bolt go straight up and right to another ring then straight up to gain crack and then to chains

FFA: Marc Bailey Lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012

FA: Marc Bailey Lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012

18Mixed 15m, 1

1.5.2. Lost Boys Hideout Wall 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bush Wacker

Approx 10m left of The Battle of Evermore. Up blocky broken corner crack to chains at 20m. Then up wide crack to a tricky finish to chains at Lost World Wall. All natural.

FA: Terry Bernutt , Marc Bailey, 2004

17Trad 35m
2 Battle of Evermore

Start approx 8m left of Sublimation. 1st pitch 30m – 20. Start in open book corner. Stay on left side of crack. Thru slightly overhung section trending left to chains. All natural. 2nd pitch 20m – 20. Straight up past 2 BR & cams to chains. 3rd pitch 20m – 17. Straight up past 4 BR & cams to chains.

FA: Marc Bailey, Terry Bernutt , Peter Higgs, 2005

20Mixed 70m, 6
3 Angels of Babylon

Start as for Battle of Evermore but at 4m veer right up over bulge with BR then follow arête to chains. BR and cams.

FA: Terry Bernutt, Marc Bailey

21Mixed 25m, 1
4 Acts Of Sublimation

Open book corner approx 8m left of The Antichrist. Up open book corner to roof, traverse right 3m past 2 BR then straight up wall to ring bolts. 5 BR & small to medium cams

FA: Marc Bailey, Terry Bernutt, 2005

22Mixed 27m, 5
5 ‘Project' - Drop Zone

FA: Bruce Jones, Danny Rosewood, 1997

Trad Project 45m
6 The Hulk - 'Closed Project'

Thin crack 3m left of the start of The Antichrist. Originally perceived by Terry Bernutt but has since been handed on to Marc Bailey. Closed project.

FA: Terry Bernutt

Trad Project 30m
7 The Antichrist

Up obvious corner crack to small roof at 5m, exit roof left. Straight up to roof with 2 FH then up wall to Lost Boys Hideout. Cams, 5 BR, 2 FH, DBB.

FA: Marc Bailey, Peter Higgs, 2002

22Mixed 30m, 7
8 Juicy

Start as for Antichrist but exit small roof at 5m on the right side. Up obvious corner and crack to Lost Boys Hideout. Natural pro, belay at chains.

FA: Marc Bailey, Peter Higgs, Terry Bernutt, 2002

18Trad 30m
9 Prince Planet

Start at crack 4m right of Antichrist. Up crack to ledge then left up to BR then up onto second ledge and traverse right 5m to top of boulder. Step up onto wall and up to roof then up crux to ledge. Traverse right and up over roof to wall above, aid off last BR to top out at Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. BR, cams, nuts. Watch the rope drag.

FA: Terry Bernutt , Marc Bailey, Peter Higgs, 2002

18 A0Aid 35m
10 * Astro Boy

Start 7m left of Hydra - 1st pitch 18m 20. Up wall veering a little right, up crack to ledge then over bulge & thru small roof to ledge with chains – 2nd pitch 17m – 24. Up wall and thru roof (crux) continue up to Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. Can be done as single pitch. BR, cams, nuts.

FA: Terry Bernutt , Marc Bailey, 2003

24Trad 35m
11 Boulder S

Start 1m right of Astro Boy. Up wall to slabby section then climb over large boulder & thru juggy roof to chains. A few small to med cams & BRs. Marc Bailey, Bruce Jones

FA: Marc Bailey, Bruce Jones

20Trad 25m

1.5.3. Dead Mans Cave Wall 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Sky's The Limit

Arête 5m right of Astro Boy 2m left of Hydra the start of Dead Man's Cave wall. Crux is the first 3m of the climb. Varied climbing up arête, start on right side then switch to left up small slab then back right follow BRs. Belay at 35m at chains to help avoid rope drag then up wall to hanging chain belay. 12 BR, 4 or 5 cams

FA: Marc Bailey, Terry Bernutt, 2004

23Mixed 47m, 12
2 ** Hydra

The obvious left hand corner crack at the start of Dead mans cave. Climb crack past 3 BR's to anchors on ledge.

FA: Marc Bailey, Terry Bernutt, 2002

FFA: 2002

19Mixed 30m, 3
3 Hydra's Head

Continuation of Hydra. At top of Hydra traverse left past bolts at Sky's the Limit then veer right thru weakness then back left to hanging chain belay at Sky's The Limit. A little contrived. BR & natural.

FA: Joe Truban, Marc Bailey, 2003

19Trad 17m
4 The Phantom

2m right of Hydra. Stay roughly 2 to 3 m right of corner all the way, when at cave level traverse 3m right to chains at Captain America .8 BRs & cams

FA: Terry Bernutt , Marc Bailey, 2005

20Sport 25m, 8
5 Captain America

Start 7m right of Hydra. Up wall past 2 BRs then up over bulge 2 BRs (stay on left side of these bolts) veering slightly left onto ledge reach up and place a good small cam before moving straight up the wall to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.

FA: Terry Bernutt , Marc Bailey, Peter Higgs, 2002

20Mixed 25m, 4
6 *** The Shadow

Start as for Captain America but climb on the right of the 3rd & 4th BRs. Then straight up wall past 2 BRs to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.

FA: Peter Higgs, Brice Milne, Terry Bernutt, 2003

21Mixed 25m, 6
7 Slip it in if it Feels Good (project)

The things you do when you are bored and it's raining and you want to climb. A metre to the left of Tinker Bell. Finish at ledge as per Tinker Bell and The Shadow. Project Marc Bailey

21Mixed Project 25m, 1
8 * Tinker Bell

Start up crack 1m right of Captain America to ledge and climb up following the large flake right and back left to the ledge above reach up and clip the BR before hauling up over the roof on big jugs to DBB in Dead Man's Cave. Bring natural pro 1 BR.

FA: Peter Higgs, Terry Bernutt, 2002

17Mixed 30m, 1
9 Tinker Bell Direct

As for Tinker Bell but half way up flake move left and straight up past one BR to then rejoin the top of original climb.

FA: Peter Higgs

19Trad 25m
10 Angelina Jollies Jublies

Start as for Tinker Bell (this is left of actual climb but this way you avoid a big loose block) climb easily to ledge move right, clip bolt & then straight up to Dead Man's Cave. DBB. Natural pro & BR.

FA: Brice Milne, Marc Bailey, 2003

19Trad 25m
11 Captain Fantastic

Two pitch extension out of Dead Mans Cave starting 3m L of Tinkerbell's DBB up the roof crack, finishing at the DBB of 'Sky's the Limit'. 1st pitch: 24 (Yet to be freed), 2nd pitch: 21

FA: Leon Gray, Toby Holmes

24Trad Project
12 Strong Like Bull

Start just right of AJJ. Bouldery start off the big horn to nice headwall and chains on ledge. A few cams to place after the crux will help.

Set by Peter Higgs

FA: Alan Ezzy, 2011

24Sport 20m
13 Mighty Mouse

Finger crack 8m right of The Shadow. Up crack then veer right to another crack then up wall to chains. BRs, cams & nuts

FA: Terry Bernutt

18Trad 25m
14 *** Feed The Rat

Approx 40m to the right of Mighty Mouse. Stellar route that has it all. Is often overlooked as the bottom is a bit wet. Starts off dirty/wet ledge under obvious corner. First pitch (19): up corner (carrots and cams) then trend slightly right to just under roof (cams & carrot bolt for belay). Second pitch (25): Short and punchy. Follow carrots through roof to chains. Third pitch (22): Beautiful headwall. Head straight up on carrots and cams (up to No.4 camalot) to mixed hanging belay just below slab. Fourth pitch (24): Fight your way up slab (trending right) using tiny under clings to easier ground and the top. Belay off big tree.

Set by Josef Truban

FFA: Alan Ezzy and Leon Gray, 2011

25Trad 50m

1.5.4. New Wall 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 153.001604, -30.060587

Description:

Access is Rap in only at the moment. approach pitch still to be sorted. Amazing rock, great angle, awesome holds and a great position make the hassle factor of getting to the wall worth it.

Approach:

To rap in, drive 1km past the communication tower and turn left onto a short track that leads to the top of the cliff. Walk down and left and rap off some trees.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Specialist (project) 25Sport Project 15m, 6
2 ** Robot Zombie Pigs

Punchy steep start past big move and up techy face.

22Sport 13m, 5

1.6. Wonderland 78 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.055273, -30.041646

Unique Features And Strengths:© (Pok)

A sandstone crag near Coffs Harbour, NSW with a variety of climbs from moderate cracks to steep sport routes.

Description:© (Pok)

Wonderland is a sandstone crag set in a beautiful forest area, overlooking a quiet valley. Routes range from sketchy, old-school bolted routes and cracks to modern sport clip-ups. The broken, multi-layered crag offers a variety of grades however most of the routes bolted in the initial phase were bolted with carrot bolts so make sure you have bolt plates. A lot of the routes top-out to belay off trees and some sport routes even require belays off traditional gear! The crag generally faces west.

The route descriptions are an amalgamation of the 2 original guide books (with edits).

Access Issues:© (Pok)

Wonderland is in Conglomerate State Forest. Camping, dogs and bolting are all legal.

Approach:© (Pok)

You can access the crag with a 2WD vehicle that has good clearance. If you don't have enough clearance you may have to walk the last 1km.

Approaching from the East: Take Sherwood Creek Road west from the Pacific Highway near Corindi Beach (approx. 35km north of Coffs Harbour or approx. 50km south of Grafton). After approx. 16km turn left onto Plum Pudding Road. Drive 1.7 km and turn right onto Free Grass Road. Drive 400m and take the right fork (Lionels Loop Road). Follow this for 1.3 km to a parking area at Dicks Nob. The surveyor who named this landmark must have had a good chuckle.

Approaching from the West: From Glenreagh take the Sherwood Creek (Upper Corindi Road), for approx. 13 kms and turn right onto Plum Pudding Road. Drive 1.7 km and turn right onto Free Grass Road. Drive 400m and take the right fork (Lionels Loop Road). Follow this for 1.3 km to a parking area at Dicks Nob. (seriously).

From the parking lot walk north along a trail that follows the top of the cliff for about 600m, until you can scramble down a short, faint gully. A rough trail then runs along the base of the cliff.

You can also access the Southern end (Whipping Wall) of Wonderland by hiking 100m back along the road from the parking lot and then bush bashing down to the cliff. This way only takes about 10 minutes to get to Whipping Wall but there is no track. There are descent gullys at either end of Whipping Wall.

Where To Stay:© (Pok)

A primitive but fairly nice camping spot is at the parking lot at the top of the crag. There are no facilities here at all (including water) and it is important that this spot be treated with respect in order to retain this privilege. The area can be very dry so extreme caution must be taken with camp fires.

Alternatively, it is also only about a 20 minute drive back to Corindi Beach which has a caravan park and a pub. The area between Corindi Beach and Coffs Harbour is a popular tourist area and offers hundreds of accommodation options ranging from caravan parks to five star resorts.

Ethic:© (Pok)

Bolting of routes is legal and there is quite a bit of potential for new lines. Most older routes top-out and adding bolt anchors at the top is deemed acceptable in the interest of preserving vegetation at the top of the cliff. Replacing bolts on routes is OK if required but adding bolts to existing routes is not. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible.

History:© (Pok)

Wonderland was founded on the 2nd May of 1991, by Gavin Dean, Keith Bennett and John Kennedy from the Forestry Commission and the area was used as an abseiling school for a couple of years.The potential for rock climbing was soon realised and 25 routes were put up by Gavin Dean, Keith Bennett, Allan Stevens, Dick Curtis and Ed Sharp during June and July of that year! By the end of 1993 the area had 56 routes which were documented in 'A Climbers Guide to the Mid-North Coast' by Gavin Dean (Jan 1994). There was another spate of development led by Ben Christian and Gordon Low (from Armidale) in about 1995 when ten routes harder than grade 25 were bolted. Shortly after that Ben looked across the valley and 'discovered' Fort Knox which was the focus of development in the years to follow. A second climbing guide to the area 'Climbing Guide to Coffs Harbour' was written by Sally Goode in 1997.

Rarely has the development of a crag been dominated so greatly by one person with Gavin Dean being either leader or seconder in 44 of the first ascents.

1.6.1. The Change Room 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Boulder
Description:

An overhanging section of cliff dominated by hard sport routes.

Approach:

50m left (facing the cliff) of the descent gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Undresser

A roof boulder problem down and right from the routes. Start near the wall and traverse out the rail to the jug.

FFA: Sam Mergatroyd, 1996

V7Boulder 3m
2 *** White Chump

The right most of the 3 route in the cave. Start under flake and up steeply to finish on lip.

FA: G. Low, 1996

25Sport 8m
3 Eat This White Chump

A link up. From the 2nd clip on Eat This G-Man traverse right into White Chump and up from the third bolt.

FA: Ben Christan, 1996

25Sport 8m
4 Eat This G-Man

Line of bolts left of White Chump, starts with a big move.

FFA: B. Christian, 1996

26Sport 8m
5 Defence Mode

The line of bolts left of Eat This G-Man. Steep And Powerfull

FA: Nick Wagland, 2009

27Sport 8m

1.6.2. Warped Wall 18 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

A 100m section of cliff comprising of six faces and a large variety of grades and climbing styles.

Approach:

Starts 10 m right (facing the cliff) of the descent gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stranger In A Strange Land

The first climb to the right of the descent gully. Just left of the big tree. Up past 2 bolts to the top.

FA: W. Gibbs, W. Anderson, G. Dean, 1993

18Sport 6m, 2
2 Stranger Than Fiction

3m right of Stranger in a Strange Land and just right of the big tree. Up past 2 bolts.

FA: W. Gibbs, W. Anderson, G. Dean, 1993

18Sport 6m, 2
3 Subliminal Erotica

2m left of the arete. A fine little wall. 2 bolts and a cam. Tree belay.

FA: G. Dean, 1993

23Mixed 8m, 2
4 ** Hope and Glory

3 m right of the arete and around the corner from Subliminal Erotica. 2 bolts and trad gear. Tree anchor.

FA: K. Bennett, G. Dean, 1993

18Mixed 15m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 * Bounty's Revenge

2m right of Hope and Glory. Climb through bucket in wall to first bolt. 2 bolts and trad gear. Tree anchor.

FA: G. Dean, K. Bennett, 1991

20Mixed 15m, 2
6 Yellow Brick Road

The short, left hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

FA: K. Bennett, solo, 1991

4Trad 6m
7 Moist Crack

The short, right hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

FA: G. Dean, solo, 1991

4Trad 6m
8 ** Blind Faith

Start on left side of steep orange face. Up Moist Crack then head rightish and up face past 4 bolts to tree anchor.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1991

19Sport 20m, 4
9 ** Blind Fury

1 m right of Blind Faith. Up orange wall past 2 bolts and a small cam. Exit left under large roof.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1993

18Mixed 20m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 *** Mind Warp

Around the corner from Blind Fury on a vertical orange wall, under a huge overhang. Climb the crack in the center of the wall, then traverse left, following your nose or bolts, whichever comes first. Then straight up wall past 2 more bolts to chain. Extremely pleasant climbing.

FA: G. Dean, W. Anderson, 1991

22Sport 15m, 4
11 * Wet Dreams

Same start as Mind Warp. Up the crack and then head right past two bolts and optional trad gear to chain.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1993

21Sport 10m, 2
12 Warped Minds

A link up. Start up Wet Dreams. At the second bolt, traverse left to meet the anchors of Mind Warp.

FA: MK, 1998

20Mixed 15m, 2
13 Oh the Humidity

The major offwidth corner just right of Wet Dreams. #5 cam at the start, #4 in the middle then traverse left to chain above Wet Dreams.

18Trad 10m
14 Bush Christening

The main weakness through the imposing rooves, about 10m left of Tomorrow Boy. There are two bolts. One at the start and one under the roof.

FA: D. Rose

19Mixed 20m, 2
15 Tomorrow Boy

The prominent arete with fixed hangers at the right hand end of the big orange rooves. Up the left side of the arete to a lower off at a ledge.

FA: B. Christian, 1996

25Sport 10m, 4
16 On A Crimp And A Prayer

Same start as Tomorrow Boy. From the forth bolt step around to the right side of the arete and continue up the face past a carrot bolt and cam to a lower-off.

FA: B. Christian, 1996

25Mixed 15m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Rabid Dog

About 10m right of Tomorrow Boy. The left hand crack, in the corner. Up crack, left into cave and then right and up to tree. Abseil from tree.

FA: A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1993

18Trad 20m
18 Charred Dog

About 10m right of Rabid Dog. A layback crack below a ledge with a large tree.

  1. Follow the corner crack to exit left on a small ledge. Up blocks to a large ledge.

  2. From the left hand end of the large ledge, head straight up to the grass and traverse right or alternatively finish straight up from the large tree. Watch out for the see-saw rock!

FA: E. Sharp, B. Birchall, 1991

12Trad 30m

1.6.3. Canine Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

Some masochist should do the first ascent of the offwidth in the middle.

Approach:

Starts around the corner, about 40m right of the big orange overhangs on Warped Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Stairway To Heaven

The black wall around the corner from Warped Wall. Sustained climbing past about 4 bolts and trad gear to a chain belay.

FA: G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, 1993

24Mixed 25m, 4
2 *** Hot Blooded

The right hand side of the black wall, about 4m left of the gully. Climb steep wall on superb rock. 4 bolts plus trad gear to a chain belay.

FA: G. Dean, K. Bennett, 1991

22Mixed 20m, 4
3 Polly Pussy Arms

The overhanging, black arete left of the offwidth crack. Up past bolts to top-out.

FA: B. Christian, 1996

26Sport 15m, 4
4 Glycerine

The undercut, grey wall right right of the offwidth crack. Around the roof, up the wall and top out.

FA: G. Low, 1996

25Sport 15m, 3
5 *** Well Hung

1m left of Canine Conflagration. Excellent climbing on good rock. Up blocks to bottom of orange wall. Up wall to roof. 3 bolts and cams (for under the roof). Double bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1992

21Mixed 20m, 3
6 *** Canine Conflagration

Start at the 1m roof leading to a flake.

  1. Scamble up the block, move right under the roof and then up the flake to a ledge.

  2. From the right hand end of the ledge, follow the arete to the top.

FA: E. Sharp, B. Birchall, 1991

19Trad 25m

1.6.4. Grab the Gristle Area 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Approach:

About 80m right of Canine Wall. After an alcove section of chossy cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Barn Storming

The left hand, low angled side of the small buttress.

FA: G. Dean (solo), 1991

10Trad 8m
2 Walking Antiques

2m right of Barn Storming. 3 bolts.

FA: K. Bennett (solo), 1991

14Sport 8m, 3
3 Eat The Meat

Climb arete and wall past 2 bolts and trad gear to a tree belay.

FA: G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, 1993

16Mixed 10m, 2
4 Don't Chew The Fat

A fine little wall to the right of the arete. A small cam and then two bolts. Tree belay.

FA: G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, 1992

19Mixed 10m, 2
5 Bitter Fingers

2m right of 'Don't Chew the Fat'. Up the short crack and move left at top to exit.

FA: R. Curtis, E. Sharp, 1991

20Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 *** Grab The Gristle

This climb is on a tier below the main cliff, about 30m below 'Don't Chew The Fat'. A nice, orange slab leading to a 2.5m roof. 2 bolts on the slab and then 2 bolts in the roof. 2 bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, 1993

19Sport 10m, 4
7 The Dodgy Brothers

Through the breaks to a cave.

FA: M. Kelly, 1997

17Trad 10m
8 Tragically Sick

5m left of Exterminator. Up wall past one bolt. Same finish as Exterminator.

FA: G. Dean, K. Harry, 1993

18Mixed 15m, 1
9 Exterminator

3m left of Sealed With A Glascow Kiss. Up wall past bolts then past a slight overhang and another bolt. Trad belay.

FA: G. Bennett, G. Gilchrist, G. Dean, 1993

17Sport 15m
10 Sealed With A Glascow Kiss

3m left of Basic Instinct. Up wall using small cams.

FA: G. Dean, 1992

18Trad 15m
11 Larry The Leisurely Lounge Lizard

A link-up. Climb Sealed With A Glascow Kiss for about 5m and then traverse right to finish up Basic Instinct.

FA: E. Houlton, M. Kelly, 1997

19Mixed 15m, 1
12 ** Basic Instinct

A great wall route with superb moves on great rock. 3 bolts and trad gear.

18Mixed 25m, 3
13 Pink Slip

Start 8m left of 'Basic Instinct'. Make one move up left into crack, up to diagonal section. Follow this nearly to the top, then up to tree

FA: Richard Curtis and Ed Sharp, 1991

19Trad 18m

1.6.5. Silk 'n' Steel Wall 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Approach:

About 100m right of Grab the Gristle. Just after a short, steep slope on the approach trail.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Dick Dastardly

3m left of Bartman. climb the thin flake to the ledge then up the wall. One bolt plus small cams. Tree belay.

FA: G. Dean, K. Bennett, W. Anderson, 1992

19Mixed 15m, 1
2 * Bartman

The left of two cracks 1m apart. Small cams and then step left to chains. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain.

FA: G. Dean, Brett, 1991

17Trad 15m
3 * King Aurther

Climb the right hand crack to chain. Large cams. The second route climbed at Wonderland. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain.

FA: G. Dean, K. Bennett, 1991

16Trad 15m
4 *** Pseudomonas

8m left of 'Fast Day in Paradise', starting below the fragmented crack. Varietal, unique and quality climbing. Hard boulder problem to get established in the crack, following this all the way up until it fades into a flared, shallow seam at half height and then straight up thin wall through breaks, with a cruisy finish up the final headwall to top out and tree belay. Generous and solid gear placements grace the entirety of the route.

FFA: Daniel Ryan, 2014

26Trad 15m
5 Fast Day In Paradise

10m left of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. The left line of bolts that goes through the cool, pocketed rock, the small roof and up the wall. Top out or lower off the last bolt.

FA: Andreas Audetat

FFA: 1996

25Sport 15m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 The Mission

Same start as Fast Day In Paradise but branch off onto the right line of bolts. Top out.

FA: Andreas Audetat, 1996

26Sport 15m, 5
7 *** Silk 'N' Steel

Classic. - Start at large corner with huge roof. Up corner to traverse line on left wall. Follow this out to arete, move around arete and up crack to projecting tooth of rock. Move out left onto wall and then straight up wall to top. If you can deal with the first few feet of loose(ish) rock it is well worth it for the fun 'no hands rest' on the tooth of rock and for the excellent finish up the final wall.

FA: Richard Curtis and Brian Birchall, 1991

21Trad 20m
8 *** Misery

10m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Climb the flake and then the crack. Veer left and up. 3 bolts plus trad gear.

FA: G. Dean, W. Anderson, 1992

23Mixed 25m, 3
9 * Dicky Knee

Up short wall (2 bolts) then up flared crack to a slightly overhanging finish (trad gear) to a bolt belay.

FA: A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1991

18Mixed 20m, 2
10 * Fat Rich Constables

About 20m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Shares a start with Punters and Collectors. Head left from the crack, up wall with cams and 3 bolts.

Named after the great 'Animal' (an infamous climber of the era).

FA: A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1991

19Mixed 16m, 3
11 Punters And Collectors

About 20m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Climb the crack, lay-backing all the way. Large cams.

FA: A. Stephens, P. Horn (Mongrel), J. Lewis, L. Dickson, 1991

14Trad 12m
12 ** Dead Poets

Wall 2m right of Punters and Collectors. 1 bolt plus trad gear to tree anchor.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1991

17Mixed 15m, 1
13 Jester

The crack 3m right of Punters and Collectors. Climb crack to tree belay. Large cams.

FA: K. Bennett, G. Dean, 1991

10Trad 15m

1.6.6. Overdrive Wall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Approach:

About 80m past Silk 'n' Steel.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Zarzoff

An arete/wall 10m right of Jester. 3 bolts past pockets to a tree belay. A cam fits in the first pocket. Named in honor of the famous Zarzoff brothers: Rooti, Kikki, Likki and Shitti. If you are 4 foot 6 inches you will have no problem.

FA: A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1991

21Sport 10m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Burke's Backyard

The left, overhanging crack to small tree belay. Requires a full rack.

FA: G. Dean, G. Gilchrist (Gristle), 1992

18Trad 20m
3 Adrenaline Overdrive

Start 5m right of 'Zarzoff'. An obvious V corner with roof. Up corner. Exit roof on left and up crack to top.

FA: Richard Curtis, Brian Birchall, 1991

19Trad 15m
4 Open Project 1

3 bolts left of Shit Chick and about 10m right of Adrenaline Overdrive. Bolted by E. Houlton. Since this was a project in the 1997 guidebook I would say it could safely be assumed this is an open project by now. Either that or the first ascentionist is very tenacious. Considering Shit Chick is 28, this one might require a rope gun.

Sport 15m, 3
5 Shit Chick

The right hand of the two bolted routes, about 12 m right of Adrenaline Overdrive. Cam and 3 bolts.

FA: E. Houlton

28Sport 15m, 3

1.6.7. Whipping wall 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:

The southern end of Wonderland.

Approach:

About 200m past Overdrive wall, after a long, chossy section of cliff. You can also access this end of Wonderland by hiking 100m back along the road from the parking lot and then bush bashing down to the cliff. This way only takes about 10 minutes but there is no trail. There are descent gullys near 'Working the Dog' or about 50m past 'Confessions of a Window Cleaner'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Working The Dog

The first climb at the base of the descent gully. Don't use the block to begin or your legs will automatically explode. Climb the arete past 2 bots and some small wires. Trad belay as for Whipping Boy.

FA: G. Gilchrist, G. Dean, 1993

17Mixed 12m, 2
2 Whip It Good

1m right of Working the Dog. 2 bolts to trad belay.

FA: G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, 1993

15Sport 12m, 2
3 ** Whipping Boy

The arete just right of the descent gully, about 15m left of Dino's Dilemma. A blocky wall/arete with ledges. 2 bolts plus trad gear to a trad belay. Up corner to ledge, mantle onto next ledge then power out through the small overhang on big holds.

FA: A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1992

19Mixed 12m, 2
4 Alice In Wonderland

A great little number just right of Whipping Boy. A couple of bolts and trad gear. Up easy rock to corner then head left.

FA: G. Dean, K. Harry, 1992

14Mixed 20m, 2
5 ** Dino's Dilemma

The first route climbed at Wonderland and reported in the first guide as 'the finest crack at the cliff'. Climb the corner crack to the tree.

FA: G. Dean, K. Bennett, 1991

18Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 * Indecent Proposal

The arete 2m right of Dino's Dilemma. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean, 1993

24Sport 15m, 3
7 ** Sibling Rivalry

A classic climb on the face 5m right of Dino's Dilemma. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1993

23Sport 15m, 3
8 ** Empty Pockets

2m right of Sibling Rivalry. Climb through the roof, past some empty pockets and onward to the top.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1991

20Sport 10m, 3
9 Knuckle Sandwich

The off-width crack 4m right of Empty Pockets. Large cams.

FA: Richard Curtis, Brian Birchall et al, 1991

15Trad 10m
10 Cave Bird

The crack 1m right of Knuckle Sandwich. Jam to cave, exit right. Small cams.

FA: Dick and Party, 1991

13Trad 10m
11 *** Father and Son

3 bolts, fun climb, trad belay.

FFA: Za Utopia, Darius Utopia, 2012

FA: 2012

17Sport 12m, 3
12 * Dead Heart

Zig-zag crack to under large boulder then exit right. Originally done with all trad gear but a bolt was added 2 years later by the first ascentionist.

FA: G. Dean, K. Bennett, 1991

20Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 ** Confessions Of A Window Cleaner

The wall/arete 10m right and around the corner from Dead Heart. The last wall route on the cliff. Sustained climbing past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay (located on large boulder that overhangs Dead Heart).

FA: G. Dean, G. Gilchrist (Gristle), 1993

19Sport 10m, 3
14 Getting Up

The crack 1m right of 'Confessions of a Window Cleaner'.

FA: Richard Curtis and Brian Birchall, 1991

16Trad

1.6.8. The Top Tier 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The top tier is situated directly above Exterminator.

Approach:

From below, climb Exterminator the a 20m pitch of about grade 12 terrain, depending on where you start. From above, walk down the main track from the parking lot for about 30m and then head towards the cliff, down a small gully and the left (facing the cliff). Routes are described from left to right facing the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Time Waster

The first crack on the left side of the tier. U crack through the dirt to the top. A great climb if you are sick in the head.

FA: G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, 1993

16Trad 10m
2 Twister

The crack 2m right of Blue Sky Mining.

FA: G. Gilchrist, G. Dean, 1993

16Trad 10m
3 Blue Sky Mining

2m right of Twister. Up a pumpy, overhanging wall past a bolt and some silver stick (?), through a roof, past some cams to two new arms!!!

FA: G. Gilchrist, G. Binnett, 1993

20Mixed 10m, 1
4 Fart Arse

8m right of Blue Sky Mining. Up onto ledge then up crack past a bolt to top.

FA: G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, G. Binnett, 1993

16Mixed 10m, 1

1.7. Fun Parlour 63 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.020701, -30.019853

Unique Features And Strengths:© (tholmes)

A small but fun sandstone cliff near Coffs Harbour, NSW. Most of the routes are in the 15-20 grade range.

Description:© (tholmes)

The 'Fun Parlour' is not a big cliff, being only 8 to 10 meters high. But the lines, cracks and walls are a lot of fun. The cliff is situated just out of 'Glenreagh', which is approximately half way (half an hour's drive) from Grafton and Coffs Harbour on the Orara Way.

Being a NW facing cliff summers are generally too hot for climbing at this crag, however winters days can be surprisingly warm and pleasant. After a hot day of climbing it is worth stopping at Middle Creek (500m towards Glenreagh) where a short hike leads to beautiful swimming holes.

Approach:© (tholmes)

About the middle of 'Glenreagh' Sherwood Creek Rd heads off across a bridge spanning the Orara river. Set your odometer to zero here. Follow this across the railway line, then hard left to Middle Creek (bridge at 5km). The parking for 'Fun Parlour' is a small, cleared, roadside area 500m past the bridge over Middle Creek on the Southern (right) side of the road (5.5km from turn off at Glenreagh). The crag is not visible from the road. The trail leaves the road about 10m up the hill from the parking lot. Follow a vague trail diagonally up and generally left for about 150m. When you reach the crag you are near the left hand side with the most obvious feature being the prominent, bolted roof Room With A View. Climbs are listed from left to right as you face the cliff.

Where To Stay:© (tholmes)

The nearest bush camping is at a nearby climbing area called Wonderland. For all other levels of accomodation, it is about a 45 minute drive back into Coffs Harbour or Woolgoolga which offers everything from caravan parks and backpackers hostels to five star resorts.

History:© (tholmes)

The Fun Parlour was founded by a Nymboida River Whitewater Rafting Guide, Larry Dixon some time in the early eighties. In the summer of 1984, during a moment of weakness, his brother Neil 'Dicko' Dixon agreed to see what climbing was all about and tied onto the end of the rope. They put up three routes that year, the best being Cold Tap (14), nearly melted in the process and then rushed back to the Golden Dog for some life-saving beers.

The following year, Dicko found that rock climbing interfered too much with his social life. As a result, another River Guide, Ian Allen, was talked into visiting the cliff. The result was two more new routes by Dixon, the best being Whip It (15).

The first wall route, Chicken Heroes (18) by Al Stephens from Armidale went up in 1986 along with 7 other crack routes.

The true potential of the Fun Parlour began to dawn on Dixon and Stephens in 1987 when they bolted the classic Funnel Web (16) by Dixon and Long Tall Texan (21) by Stephens. A total of eight new routes went up that year. Other visiting climbers that year were Richard Thomas (the long, tall Texan) and Mark Spence from Coffs Harbour.

The year of the Bosch, 1988, resulted in five beautiful routes, the best being the Ramones inspired Planet Earth (19) by Dixon and Quasimodo (18) by Stephens. Other visiting climbers involved int the first ascents were Graham Stewart from Armidale, Wade (Image Man) Fairly and Richard Falls from Tamworth.

1989 saw many visitors come and go and 16 superb routes being put up. Gavin (Coke) Dean, a climbing and abseiling instructor from Coffs got very serious about new routes and, with a variety of seconders, put up 12 new ones (nothing compared to what he did at Wonderland later), the best being The Raw (21) and the infamous, almost impossible for some, Rum and Coke (22). Other visitors during the winter were Niel Crabb and Mark Colyvan from Armidale, Karl Shultz from downtown Glenreagh and Davey and Tim Wood from Ulong.

In 1990 Larry Dixon became more involved in developing his Whitewater Rafting Business and temporarily retired from climbing. Dean, with Stephens and Wayne Anderson, at various times, were involved in 14 of the 15 new routes put up during the year. The best was Walt Disney's Picking Strawberries (23) by Dean (one of the hardest at Fun Parlour). Other climbers involved in the first ascents were Tim (Tadpole) Balla, Patrick Thompson, Toldy Thompson and Tim Loughlin.

In 1991, Gavin Dean discovered Wonderland which became the focus of attention for development. Since then, only a few routes have been added to the crag although it always seems to attract a few climbers every year, especially those who are looking for moderate routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** You Can't Touch This

On a small buttress about 50m left of the main crag. Onto the wall and up through the right side of the roof. 2 bolts and a tree belay.

FA: W. Anderson, G. Dean, 1990

20Sport 8m, 2
2 * Rum And Coke

The first route on the main section of the cliff. A thin crack in a wall. Shoot up crack to horizontal break, then it's suddenly hard. 2 carrot bolt belay 2m back from cliff edge.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1989

22Sport 8m, 2
3 * Deceiving Decisions

Start on the block below the right leaning crack. Up crack then wall with small iron hand holds, wires low down then 3 BR's to the top.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1989

19Mixed 8m, 3
4 Swingin' Oldies

Just right of DECEIVING DECISIONS. Up short wall, thin moves to top, 3 carrot bolts.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1989

18Sport 8m, 3
5 Cosmic Energy

A blunt arete arete, 2 carrots and 2 carrot bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens,, 1989

20Sport 8m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Fantasy And Fiction

The short wall in an alcove, 1m right of COSMIC ENERGY. This moves up the short wall. 2 carrots and 1 bolt plus tree belay.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1989

18Sport 8m, 2
7 Phantom Cockroaches

In the same alcove as FANTASY AND FICTION, 2m right. Don't use the block on the right hand side, you cheat! 1 bolt and a large cam.

FA: G. Dean, L. Dixon, Dave ?, 1989

19Mixed 8m, 1
8 Son Of A Beach

A funky looking crack left of the big overhang (ROOM WITH A VIEW), up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top.

FA: A. Stephens, L. Dixon, G Stewart, 1987

16Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 ** Room With A View

The obvious roof just right of the approach trail. 4 BR's and a small cam down low. 2 BR's are next to each other at the start of the hard bit. Belay back on trees. Was originally graded 22 (in the days when climbing roofs was a new thing).

FA: A. Stephens, 1988

18Sport 8m, 4
10 Shady Retreat

Perfect on a hot sunny day. Up the wall just right of (and perpendicular to) ROOM WITH A VIEW. 3 bolts. Beautiful!

FA: G. Dean, T. Loughlin, P Thompson, 1989

17Sport 8m, 3
11 Steamer

One of the first routes done here. A wide corner rack, bridge and jam.

FA: L. Dixon, N. (Dicko) Dixon, 1984

17Trad 8m
12 Quasimodo

The black wall right of STEAMER.

FA: A. Stephens, L. Dixon, 1988

18Sport 8m, 3
13 ** Silver And Gold

The golden wall with 2 pieces of silver, right of QUASIMODO. Technical and strenuous. In contrast to Room With A View (also by Stephens) which was downgraded, this route was originally graded 22 and is now considered by some to be closer to 24.

FA: A. Stephens, 1989

23Sport 8m, 2
14 Ballroom Blitz

"Ready Steve, alright fellas, lets go......". The narrow wall 1m right of SILVER AND GOLD. Large Friend and 1 bolt. A little contrived, don't bridge off the right hand wall. Techno and streno. (Sorry Ralph!)

FA: A. Stephens, M. Colyvan, L. Dixon, N. Crabb, 1988

19Mixed 8m, 1
15 Cable Layer

The crack in the corner just right of BALLROOM BLITZ. Named after the feeling you get just after you put on your harness. Bridge and jam.

FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens, 1988

12Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 * Planet Earth

A classic. The wall right of CABLE LAYER. Another Ramones inspired route. Large cam in cave and 2 bolts.

FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens, 1988

19Mixed 8m, 2
17 Wasp

The next crack right of PLANET EARTH. A flared crack in a steep wall, hard jamming to top.

FA: L. Dixon, M. Spence, 1988

16Trad 8m
18 ** (Unknown 1) 20Sport 8m
19 Life's A Beach

A steep jam crack, better than it looks.

FA: A. Stephens, L. Dixon, 1987

17Trad 8m
20 Sandy Sandshoes

Great little short wall, out of the sun. Good small holds, pumpy. 2 bolts and a cam.

FA: G. Dean, L. Dixon, 1989

18Sport 8m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 Like A Virgin

The corner right of SANDY SANDSHOES. Neil's first route! Up onto the step then bridge up corner.

FA: N. Crabb, A. Stephens, 1988

11Trad 8m
22 Powered By Bosch

1.5 metres left of 'Chicken Heros'. Up easy slab to bolt with fixed hanger. An interesting sequence leads past this then pad on up to double bolt belay.

FA: D. Carter, A. Donoghue, 1994

18Sport 8m, 2
23 Chicken Heroes

A juggy looking wall with poor pro up high. A large cam about half height, a 1/2 inch Hero loop over the chicken head and a small wire for pro.

FA: A. Stephens, L. Dixon, 1986

18Trad 8m
24 Giblets

A crack with a cave near the top. The first rack right of CHICKEN HEROES. Hard start then easier climbing to top.

FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens, R. Thomas, 1986

16Trad 8m
25 Obscure Route

Up trad crack and tend right to carrot bolt on arete.

FA: Unknown

20Mixed 8m, 1
26 Rags To Riches

The wall right of GIBLETS. Up steepening wall. 3 bolts and trad belay. Superb.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, L. Dixon, 1990

20Sport 8m, 3
27 * Flat Batteries

Totally excellent. A wall in a slight alcove right of RAGS TO RICHES. Up the wall with a bulge, 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay. Nice one Wayne!

FA: W. Anderson, K. Bennett, G. Dean, 1990

21Sport 8m, 3
28 * Light And Easy

Not so easy if you're not light! Between FLAT BATTERIES and the "Shower Recess" (I think!). A steep wall with a thin crack near the top. 4 bolts to a 2 bolt belay. Just great!

FA: G. Dean, P. Thompson, T. Loughlin, T. Thompson, 1989

20Sport 8m, 4
29 * Steamy Windows

This route and the next half dozen are located around the "Shower Recess" (an obvious, square alcove).

5m left of the "Shower Recess". Tricky off the ground. Up through bulge past a bolt to an overhanging wall finish. 3 bolts and a 2 bolt belay.

FA: A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1990

19Sport 8m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
30 Don't Drop The Soap

A couple of metres right of STEAMY WINDOWS. A little contrived but an excellent route if you keep over to the left. Steep and juggy to start, leading to a flake and easy finish. 1 bolt plus small trad gear to tree belay.

FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens, 1990

17Mixed 8m, 1
31 Luke Warm

The left hand arete of the "Shower Recess". Up the arete then easily to top. A great beginners' route.

FA: L. Dixon, M. Spence, 1986

10Trad 8m
32 Cold Tap

The left hand corner of the "Shower Recess". Up the corner with jugs to tree belay. The first good route climbed at the Fun Parlour (and possibly all of the Coffs area).

FA: L. Dixon, N. (Dicko) Dixon, 1984

14Trad 8m
33 * Hot Tap

The right hand corner of the "Shower Recess" Short but much harder than it looks. Sustained.

FA: L. Dixon R. Thomas, A. Stephens, 1986

16Trad 8m
34 Just Add Water

The right arete of the "Shower Recess". Low angle arete with one bolt and trad gear. Cruise up and right on jugs to top to a double bolt belay.

FA: D. Carter, A. Donoghue, 1994

13Mixed 8m, 1
35 Where's My Burrito

The face 3m right of the 'Shower Recess'. Up to horizontal break (cam) then up steep wall past one or two bolts to a double bolt belay.

FA: D.Carter, A. Donoghue, 1994

18Mixed 8m, 1
36 Short And Sweet

The right side of the wall to the right of the "Shower Recess". Beautiful! Do it! Up bulging wall to top. 2 bolts.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1989

22Mixed 8m, 2
37 Snowman

One of the first routs at this cliff by the Dodgy Brothers. A fist sized crack in a short wall. Strait up. Right of SHORT AND SWEET.

FA: L. (Pieman) Dixon, N. (Dicko) Dixon, 1984

8Trad 8m
38 Confidence

A very short wall between SNOWMAN and WOMAN. Nice moves.

FA: G. Stewart A. Stephens, L. Dixon, 1987

12Trad 8m
39 Woman

A waste of space. No .. not women .. just this route. A very short crack. More of a quick way to the top of the cliff.

FA: A. Stephens, L. Dixon, 1986

8Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
40 * Walt Disney's Picking Strawberries

One of the hardest routes at the crag. The obvious roof right of CONFIDENCE. A short steep wall, then muscle round the roof, then easier to tree belay. 2 bolts. It's great!

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1990

23Sport 8m, 2
41 Lambada

2m right of WALT DISNEY'S PICKING STRAWBERRIES. A crack then wall. Small cams and 2 bolts. Be gentle on the footholds up high. Quite nice.

FA: A Stephens, G. Dean, 1990

17Mixed 8m, 2
42 Summer

his route and the next two go up the wall with the large tree close to the wall. Technical, strenuous and it wanders around a little bit - don't bridge off the tree you cheat! Originally reported to have 3 or 4 bolts but may be missing the last one (?)

FA: A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1990

22Sport 8m, 3
43 * Treeology

Right of SUMMER. A crack in a steep wall next to the big Blackbutt tree. Natural pro. Strenuous start, scary in the middle and a tricky finish. A lot of fun.

FA: A Stephens, L. Dixon, 1986

17Trad 10m
44 * Intreeg

Great fun. Superb moves. A couple of metres right of TREEOLOGY. Swing up the wall. 2 bolts and some natural pro.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1990

20Mixed 10m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
45 * The Golden Dog

An excellent climb, named after the friendly Glenreagh Pub. The Pub burnt down during winter 1991 but was rebuilt. The classic Golden Dog statue was added in 2011. A good long route. The left leaning, diagonal crack to the cave then up the wider crack to top. Tree belay.

FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens, G. Stewart, 1987

17Trad 10m
46 * Long Tall Texan

Start as for THE GOLDEN DOG, into the cave then move right from the cave and up the steep wall past 2 bolts and trad gear. Strenuous and sustained. Tree belay.

FA: A. Stephens, G. Stewart, L. Dixon, 1987

21Mixed 10m, 2
47 Whip It

Whip it ... Whip it GOOD! This is good. The first crack on the next wall. A hand to fist crack, with crux near the top.

FA: L. Dixon, I. Allen, 1985

15Trad 8m
48 * The Raw

One of the BEST on the cliff... A definite must do! A long, steep, slightly overhanging wall perpendicular to the main crag. Very sustained. 4 bolts. Originally had a double bolt belay but apparently someone has chopped them (?). Either rap off the dodgy tree or walk down.

FA: G. Dean, P. Thompson, 1989

21Sport 10m, 4
49 And The Cooked

The wall/arete right of THE RAW. It'll keep you guessing. 1 bolt plus trad gear.

FA: W. Anderson, G. Dean, 1989

17Mixed 10m, 1
50 Sandman

The next corner right of AND THE COOKED. A corner with a jam crack near the top, bridging, layaways and jams, it's got it all.

FA: A. Stephens, W. (Image man) Fairly, R. Falls, L. Dixon, 1987

16Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
51 Funnel Web

One of the best at this grade. The first bolted route at Fun Parlour and the Coffs area. Start at the arete next to SANDMAN. Clip the first two bolts then move onto the face, 2 more bolts and a steep little wall to finish.

FA: L Dixon, A. Stephens, 1987

17Sport 10m, 4
52 Pus In Boots

This and the next route are on a short, orange section of the cliff with small roofs and caves. Imagine having pus in your boots! An overhanging arete then easy to top.

FA: T. (Tadpole) Balla, L. Dixon, 1989

14Trad 8m
53 Boot The Puss

2m right of PUS IN BOOTS. Up overhanging wall past crazy thread runner in roof, then cruise.

FA: L. Dixon, Davey, 1989

15Trad 8m
54 Shaky

The next corner right of BOOT THE PUSS. Every cliff needs a horrible climb. Up corner crack to cave, up wall to top.

FA: L. Dixon, I. Allen, 1985

12Trad 8m
55 Sandcastles

The original start on the right side of the arete is about 17. However, a better start is on the left side of the arete and is more in keeping with the grade of the rest of the climb - 14. Excellent value. Straight up the arete to top, natural pro.

FA: G Stewart. A. Stephens, L. Dixon, 1987

14Trad 8m
56 Bacon And Eggs

The next arete right of SAND CASTLES. All natural pro, take a full rack of small sizes. An intense arete that becomes an easier wall. 2 bolt belay. This one for the purist.

FA: G. Dean, W. Anderson, 1990

18Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
57 * Bubble And Squeak

The shaded wall right of BACON AND EGGS. One of the best on the cliff. Love it...Love it...Love it! Up the steep wall with horizontal breaks. 2 bolts and a cam to a 2 bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean, W. Anderson, 1990

20Mixed 8m, 2
58 Power And The Passion

Left of these little wonders is a large boulder that is about to roll down to the road and squash your car. It is called the "Gazebo". The two routes on the eastern side are out of the sun in the afternoon. There's an abseil chain at the top.

'Sometimes you've got to take the hardest line...'. This goes up the northern end, the first line you come to. Forget the passion, it's all power on this one. 2 bolts. Belay off a bolt and chains. Technical and sustained.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1990

21Sport 8m, 2
59 Gazebo

An access route. No pro. Better not to do it. On the easy side.

FA: G. Dean, 1990

9Trad 8m
60 Wedding Cake Island

2m left of POWER AND THE PASSION, the middle of the wall. Straight up past 2 bolts to chains. Nice on a hot afternoon.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1990

19Sport 8m, 2
61 I Don't Mind

Named in honor of the great Bob Geldoff. The wall/arete on the far side of the Gazebo that steepens near the top. Avoid the heat of the afternoon. Great.

FA: A. Stephens, G Dean, 1990

19Unknown 8m, 2
62 delete

.

19Sport 2
63 * delete 19Sport 2

1.8. Solinari 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 153.004054, -30.061296

Description:

A long but discontinuous cliffline, but some very promising rock here. The first wall at the decent has the majority of established routes here, but plenty of potential further along the cliffline.

Approach:

Park as for approach to the top of Never Never (the abseil access), however head south along the cliifline. You will pas a few small boulders and cross a small creek, then walk on til a large interestingly shaped boulder appears. There is an ancient static line tied to a tree at this decent gully (DON"T TRUST IT!!!! Its a million years old at least!). Set up a rap or toprope line for access and escape after climbing. The main wall is obvious and on your left as you rap in, and most of the suitable rock for climbing is on this side. Take great care at the traverse over the void around the corner which leads to more walls further down the cliff -old rusted bolts and some old static are in place here, but treat them with suspicion!!

History:

It was about 1996 when Ben Christian, Gordon Low, and Jeff Gracie (I think it's Gracie...?) started poking around here. Saw very little attention until about 2009, when Rhys Van Gastel and Nic Wagland finished off a steep project of Low's past the death traverse, that went at 25.

1.8.1. Main Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:

The First Wall you come to next to access Gully

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 First Line

First route next to access point. Up pocketed face. Needs Rebolting

Sport 12m
2 ** Second Line

Start under slab, up to ledge and then up awesome orange wall to anchors under lip

23Sport 18m
3 * Third Line

Line 5m right of slab. Up orange face, through roof then up black face to anchors. Overdue for a rebolt

24Sport 18m
4 Sex in Space

2 metres to the right of route three. Easy past two old fixed hangers to rest under roof, then crazy jump move, only possible if you're tall, then slightly pumpy wall to top. Mix of old hangers on easier ground and new ring bolts on harder sections.

FFA: Rhys Van Gastel

FA: Rhys Van Gastel, 2010

26Sport 15m, 6

1.9. Godzone 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.008997, -30.031615

Description:

Most of the route descriptions were provided by Bruce Jones www.verticalmania.com. The order of the routes is uncertain and should be edited here when someone can verify them.

Approach:

Access from the top (2wd) From Coffs Harbour go out along Coramba Road to Nana Glen. At Nana Glen turn right onto Bucca Rd. Continue on across a bridge until you come to a road on the left called Morrows Rd. Turn Left into Morrows Road and set your odomenter to zero:

0.0km - Follow Morrows Rd for a few kilometers where it forks.

5.0km - Take the right fork across the railway line. The road now becomes Waihou Rd. Keep going up zig zags until you reach Sherwood Forest Rd

Turn a sharp left onto Sherwood Forest Road. Continue along Sherwood Forest Road until you drive Past Communications tower and the road heads down and right (*needs kms here). After a while you will come to a creek crossing. park here. you can drive through easily with a 4wd but the water is deeper than it first looks. Follow track going down and around to the right to bottom of crag.

Alternatively you can access Sherwood Forest Road from via Bucca road or through Woolgoolga.

If you have a monster truck you can access the top of the Godzone via Glenreagh too. Take the Upper Corindi Road out of Glenreagh and head towards Middle Creek. A few kilometres out along the dirt you will come to a very steep, rough track on the right (as you drive down a slight hill there is a sharp right hand turn (4 o'clock)). Follow this track until you come to a large clearing at a creek. Park here. Track to climbs starts over the other side of the creek. Follow track going down and around to the right to bottom of crag.

History:

From www.verticalmania.com: Larry Dixon, climber and raft guide from Ulong originally found and named the Gods Cliff (now called Godzone) some time in 1982. He so named the crag due to a large cross (crucifix) and altar we found under the large overhang. Later Gavin Dean and Al Stephens did two single pitch routes to the left of the large overhang but didn't record them - approx grade 16/17. Gavin also did some very short routes near the overhang. Not much was recorded since this time until 1996 when Mal Drummond, F. Schlechtriem, and Bruce Jones began putting up new routes in the area. There is still much potential and the following recorded routes are well worth the effort.

1.9.1. First Tier 19 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 153.008279, -30.032361

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alice's Crux

First obvious roof at start of main cliff. Crux between 1st and 3rd bolt. Excellent heel hook move to get from 2nd to 3rd bolt. 4th bolt in over hanging finish. 3rd bolt not visible from bottom. Double bolt belay.

FA: Mal Drummond, F. Schlechtriem, 1996

20Sport 10m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Bruce's Project

Up through broken ledges and right and follow crack line to first big ledge. Natural up under corner then traverse out right for 3m along overhang then pull up onto prominent ledge. Move to runner up and left and then come back right and up. Traverse out right to clip next runner on honey combed wall. Crux move to thin underneath ledge then left to gain a position to place a SLCD. (strenuous). Strong moves up and right to clip. Exit top and belay from chains or trees.

Trad 18m
3 Lose Control

All natural. Most of the route is probably 18ish but the crux section through the corner crack around half way is a testy 21. Start is approx 3m right of the corner crux section - rightish of the jutting overhang, Climb left until ledge below crux then up corner crack. Move right and follow natural pro line right then left to finish at tree.

FA: Marc Bailey lead Bruce Jones, 2011

21Trad 21m
4 * Freestisla

Same start as 'Bucanner Blood'. Sweet start with easy moves protected by a cam swinging out and around a overhanging section. Clip first bolt runner then up on big ledge to place some natural. Make you way onto next ledge to left of next bolt and clip. Crux move of this ledge and up to small pocket and next bolt runner. Strong moves to next ledge for a deserved rest and next clip. Start the next move and clip above small overhang and reach high to step up right onto awkward balancing ledge. Stand tall and clip last runner for an easy finish. Belay off bolt runners (spread out) and natural.

FA: Andrew Juffermans, Bruce Jones, Marc Bailey, 2007

21Mixed 18m, 4
5 * Buccaneer Blood

3 bolt runners and 4 to 5 cams. Start left under overhang and swing around onto face on great holds. Up left past first bolt onto large ledge ('dropledge'). Move to the left side of large ledge and then up past 2nd and 3rd bolts. Three moves here through these bolts to a natural placement is the crux and sweetesh part of the route - very nice moves. Up through pocket with natural placements to top out on next big ledge. Belay of bolt runner straight above and bolt runner 2 m to the right.

FA: Bruce Jones with Ian, Andrew, Marc, Murray, Brandon, 2011

18Mixed 21m, 3
6 The Blasphemous Traverse of the Infidel

Starts at far right of big overhang. 1st Pitch - Up crack to about 5m and then start traversing left for about 20m , cams and ringbolts. Natural belay (or use ringbolt plus cams). 2nd Pitch - Keep heading left for about another 25m , all natural until just around corner, natural belay. 3rd Pitch Keep heading left for about another 20m, all natural until you reach lower off chains or turn around and traverse back (140m climb). Tons of exposure.Project

FA: Marc Bailey and Murray Vines, 2012

23Mixed Project 70m, 5
7 Can't Find Fun Parlour

7m right of Hedron. Start on ledge. Thin pro at start. Sling up top around large rock for belay on small ledge.

FA: Danny Rose, Bruce Jones, 1996

17Trad 20m
8 Cirrus

Arete route above Seaena & Headron. Self belay route used to climb out. Only access is to abseil in. Probably won't be done by anyone due to access problem. Good though due to exposure.

FA: Bruce Jones

15Trad 12m
9 ** Hedron

5m right of Seaena. Sweet climb on nice orange sandstone rock. Follow bolt line. Natural pro as needed. Eye bolts at top for belay & descent.

FA: Bruce Jones

21Trad 21m
10 Seaena

6 bolt runners plus chain for belay. The route is a little contrived with only two moves at the grade, one at the 3rd bolt, the other at the 5th bolt. The start is reasonable with an easy middle and nice undercling edge near the finish. Good fun and worth the effort.

FA: Bruce Jones, Andrew Juffermans, 2005

23Sport 25m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Arties Project

Mini Lala Land

25Sport 12m
12 Silicosis

Bouldery Start, Stick clip first bolt then up past 3 rb's to single RB anchor

21Sport 12m, 3
13 Holy Water

Thin pro at start up to small tree.

FA: Bruce Jones, Danny Rose,, 1996

16Trad 12m
14 Merlin's Apprentice

A few meters right of Merlin's Platform. Has a Blank orange wall in the middle with one bolt. Crux is from the bolt up. Mostly big slopers 1 bolt & natural pro. Natural belay.

FA: Mal Drummond, F. Schlechtriem, 1996

20Mixed 10m, 1
15 Whiskey Water

1m right of Merlins platform. Up on to small ledge to place first cam. Up to sloper to clip first bolt. Two crimps, feet up, (right foot as far to left as possible for max. height), right layoff, and balance up to pocket. Clip bolt then up onto ledge and run out to top. Belay off Merlins platform (2bolts, & cam or Hex for directional. Technical & sweet.)

FA: Bruce Jones & Mal drummond, 1997

21Mixed 10m, 2
16 Merlin's Platform

15m right of Bealzibbs Revenge . Straight up to platform using small wires. Has a fun dyno in the middle. Easy if you are tall. Belay at top. Natural Pro.

FA: M. Drummond, S. Lyons, 1996

18Trad 10m
17 Grease Mantle

About 40m North of 'Alice's Crux' . An overlap crack with a tricky slightly overhanging finish. Chain belay. Great for offsets.

FA: Mal Drummond, B. Jones, 1996

18Trad 18m
18 Guenevere

10m right of Bealzibbs Revenge. Great route at the grade, often used as a warm up being directly below some abseil chains (top rope). Has it all, hand jam at start, sloper to pocket then pull up, more slopers then mantle on right arm with lay off left hand hold, then finish on edges past left of tree. Great stuff.

FA: Bruce Jones, M Drummond, 1996

18Trad 13m
19 Bealzibub's Revenge

Well north of 'Grease Mantle' where the cliff is doubled tiered. Up 2.5m blank wall past one bolt to crack in corner. Then layback up to small overhanging ledge. Fist jam behind ledge and traverse 2m, R, to end of ledge. Then up small blank black wall to double bolt belay. 1 bolt then NP. Beware loose rocks.

FA: Mal Drummond, F. Schlechtriem, 1996

19Mixed 12m, 1

1.9.2. Second Tier 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Trinity

Directly above Bealzibbs Revenge. Three empty pockets, face down at top. Basic but fun. Natural Pro, double bolt belay.

FA: Mal Drummond, B. Jones, 1996

15Trad 9m
2 The Cauldron

Starts 10m right of 'Trinity'. Hard fingery start up to 2nd bolt. Ease off after 2nd bolt with nice moves to last bolt on overhanging finish. The last move exposes you to 25m above the ground. 5 bolts, double bolt belay.

FA: Mal Drummond, B. Jones, 1996

20Sport 15m, 5

1.9.3. Third Tier 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Grass Roots

Above "'Cauldron' on the 3rd tier. Has a Hard start depending on your height. Easy in the middle. Pumpy finish. natural pro, natural belay.

FA: Mal Drummond, F. Schlechtriem, 1996

20Trad 8m
2 Itchy

2 bolts and natural pro

19Mixed 8m, 2
3 Scratchy 21Unknown 8m
4 Krusty

2 bolts and natural pro

22Mixed 8m, 2
5 Broken Bit 19Unknown 8m
6 Flaming Moes

2 bolts and natural pro, natural belay

19Mixed 8m, 2
7 Abe's Oddesey

2 bolts and natural pro

19Mixed 8m, 2

1.10. Music Hall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 153.025432, -30.027746

Description:

A small area with nice setting

Approach:

Access as for Fort Knox Top Carpark but instead of veering right down get lost trail continue 2.2km to small track on right (after short steep hill). drive to end of trail (about 100m) and park. From car head down right to the right (facing out from cliff) and then back down under cliffs to climbing area

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Chance Meeting

Cnr crack - It was there. Natural Pro

FA: Bruce Jones

16Trad 10m
2 Mobile Moments

Obvious line on BH’s. Crux near top

FA: Bruce Jones

21Trad 12m
3 * Mangle Sandle

Start 2m left of BROKEN TOE, directly under first BR. 3BR's plus natural. Natural after third BR. Nice moves well worth the effort. Tree Belay.

FA: Bruce Jones

19Trad 19m
4 Drum Beat

An easy way to the top. Left of 'Broken Toe' up past a tree. Natural Pro and Belay.

FA: Bruce Jones

15Trad 18m
5 * Broken Toe

Follow crack to top. Tree belay.

FA: Bruce Jones

19Trad 20m
6 Iron John 22Unknown 20m
7 Nudge Nudge

Start in line with arete 2m left and below WINK WINK. Pro in horizontal crack. Up and left for pro in left cnr crack. Move up and right to first BR Follow BR line to top. 3 BR's plus natural. Nice and pleasant. Tree belay

FA: Bruce Jones

16Trad 17m
8 * Wink Wink

First face past first cnr left of RAIN DANCE. Start near tree and use face only. Follow BR line to top. Very nice and sustained. 4 BR's with tree belay.

FA: Bruce Jones

20Trad 15m
9 ** Rain Dance

Arete to the right of 'WINK WINK'. Start below arete and move right then left. Go to left of overhang. Move up and traverse right to arete and mantle up. Move left onto face and head for tree at top

FA: Bruce Jones, 1996

20Trad 20m
10 ** War Dance

Around the cnr to the right of 'RAIN DANCE'. Start in depression and move right then up onto block. Veer left over bulge then right past shrubbery to top.

FA: Matt Hutton

22Unknown 25m
11 Grapevine

4 BR’s wires and cams. Start as for War Dance. Clip first FH then traverse right. Follow BR’s & finish as for War Dance. A little pumpy at top third

FA: Bruce Jones

19Trad 25m

1.11. Bunyip 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.999130, -30.052325

History:

Bunyip was found by Tristan Ricketts & Paul Daniel sometime around 1999.They called it Bunyip 'cos it was big (relative to the Fort Knox area et al),and not easily found.They also wanted a uniquely Australian name.They started bolting wicked wall then moved on to the larger black wall that faces south (30?m left/North of Wicked wall). Unfortunately they only got a few routes done before Tristan got a job and moved to Sydney.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** I'll follow the sun

1st Pitch - Jump start then climb juggy overhang up to ledge then up to chains. 2nd Pitch - Move up large steps approx 8m, climb corner crack to roof and up past loose block, (but secure) up corner crack to small roof and then up to chains.

FFA: T. Bernutt, M. Bailey, 1999

21Trad 35m
2 ** Woosca

15m to the right of I.F.T.S. Straight forward and pleasant climbing to crux. Above crux the rock becomes a little softer. Make way up corner crack to ledge.

FFA: M. Bailey, T. Bernutt, 1999

21Trad 35m
3 Sticky Fingers

3m to the right of Woosca. Up wall using cams and bolts , a few reachy moves and underclings . Trend a little left around block and then up to mantle . Once on small ledge then up and a little right to chains.

FA: Marc Bailey, 1997

FFA: Leon Grey, 2010

22Mixed 25m, 4
4 Sweet Glenreagh

3m right of Sticky Fingers. Project - Marc Bailey

Mixed Project 25m, 4
5 385 Parts per Million

2m right of Sweet Glenreagh. Project Marc Bailey

Trad Project 25m
6 * Thursday

Up tricky crack then head left up through a bulge to ledge, move to corner. Hard start to gain wall, then up to ledge. Up remaining wall to chains. Climbed as a single pitch but could be easily split into 2 or 3 pitches at ledges.

FFA: B. Milne, T. Bernutt, M. Bailey, 1999

20Trad 35m

1.12. Killowatts 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.997320, -30.056276

Approach:

Park at the end of the road and around to the right under the power lines. Walk right (facing outward), down towards creek (usually very little water in creek). Don’t cross creek but vere left towards the cliff edge. Scramble down where creek cuts through cliff or abseil over. The scramble is ok but a little sketchy in places.Walk back under cliff (away from creek) Climbs are to your right with 'Chalk Eye' being around 30m away. Climbs are described Left to Right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Chalk Eye

This climb is designed to be a novice's first lead, It is all natural with good placements for SLCD. A chain belay is waiting on a reasonable ledge

FA: Bruce Jones

13Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Salt

Vere left for 3m from start, 2NP one near start for belayer/2nd. Slight run out after 2nd pro. Straight up for next bit, 2 BR's, then a NP. Vere left 1.5m along a ledge to next BR, the NP belay. Easy top pitch with a couple of NP. Go around to the right of small tree near top. If doing in one pitch watch for rope line.

FA: Bruce Jones

17Trad 35m
3 Chilli Sauce

Start as for Salt. Natural up to first bolt runner (3m) on face next to honey comb section. Climbs tends to the left. Up onto sloppy ledge. Run out to next bolt runner or find a natural. This bit can be a little tricky if you are not feeling confident. Clip next bolt and up over small overhang. Another bolt on next small overhang. Up and on top of this to balance up a face, BR on face. Up and onto large ledge. NP on ledge then out to the left to go to the chain. More NP available if needed.

FA: Bruce Jones

19Trad 20m
4 Pepper

Start as for salt. Vere right for 2m to top of honeycomb. Up through V shape to the left. Follow BR line to belay ledge. 4BR's, 2 NP to belay ledge. Climb can be finished at this ledge, by going to the chain on Chilli Sauce to the left. Watch out for the wasp that inhabit the crack on the big ledge.

FA: Bruce Jones

21Trad 35m
5 Sequential mood

Start on face right of pepper. 5 bolt runners plus natural. Might be a good one to practice with two ropes. Up face to first BR. NP to gain 2nd BR. Straight up a little left of overhang to gain BR on overhang face. Travers across to the right to big ledge. Clip BR then up onto face, then traverse left passed two BR's. Continue slightly left and up running it out to big ledge on left. Continue left traverse to chain on left above large ledge.

FA: Bruce Jones

17Trad 25m
6 Toe Wacker

NP route. Up the open book cnr crack, then traverse to line above the bolt on T. Follow the NP line taking you around the left of the face. Up to chain belay under ledge.

FA: Bruce Jones

13Trad 10m
7 * chip

Direct route with same start as thunder. First move would be a 19 and don't use the thin crack on the left after gaining first ledge.

FA: Bruce Jones, 2002

18Top rope 13m
8 Thunder

First move is more a 18/19. For an easier start move left about half way between Thunder and Toe Wacker - move up for about half a move then traverse to bolt. Probably more in-keeping with the overall grade. Clip first bolt then NP to top. Same top section as TW. Sweet hand Jam just above 2nd pro. Follow the NP line taking you around the right of the face. Up to chain belay under ledge.

Set by Bruce Jones, 2002

FA: Bruce Jones, 2002

17Mixed 13m, 1
9 Her Dirty Mixed Route

Start about 5m left of Cinders. Straight up crack for about 12m - natural pro. After clipping first ring bolt head slightly left and up thru open book corner past one more ring bolt and natural pro to chains

FFA: Marc Bailey, 6th Jul

FA: Marc Bailey, 6th Jul

17Mixed 25m, 2
10 * His Dirty Mixed Route

Start about 5m left of Cinders. Straight up crack for about 12m - natural pro (same first 12m as Her Dirty Mixed Route ). After clipping first ring bolt traverse right about 1m and up past 2 more ring bolts and natural pro to small ledge . Clip ring on ledge before clipping ring just around small roof .Climbed left of last ring to double lower off rings at top to keep grade as listed or up the grade a few notches by staying right of last ring.

FFA: Marc Bailey, 6th Jul

FA: Marc Bailey, 6th Jul

19Mixed 26m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Cinders

Nice balancy start. Crux move half way up with an undercling using high feet. (probably easier if you are tall). Some surprisingly nice holds on this interesting route. Chain for belay.

Set by Bruce Jones

FA: Bruce Jones, 2002

21Trad 20m
12 Pink Chicks

An all natural crack route a few meters left of 'Flamingo Crack'. Move to top of crack then mosey left following NP line to finish at a chain belay. A little strength zapping but nice.

FA: Bruce Jones

19Trad 15m
13 Flamingo Crack

Open book corner crack to the far right of the crag. Before the crag section breaks up Follow crack line to chain on left. Easier than it looks. NP. Belay off chain or natural.

FA: Bruce Jones

Trad

1.13. The Scones 103 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 152.982514, -30.001230

Unique Features And Strengths:

Sandstone bouldering area near Glenreagh with a very short approach.

Description:

A great mini-crag with nice boulders below it. The crag itself has a variety of juggy faces, aretes, and cracks. Landings are generally quite flat but one or more crash pads are recommended. Some of the problems have deceptively slopey top-outs. The Scones seems to see waves of activity over the years so a wire brush (and possibly an old rope) can be handy if you want to attempt more obscure problems or put up new ones. The area faces west and is on Crown Land.

Although many problems have been done over the years. Until the development of this guide, none had been recorded. They have been described as 'Projects' in this guide but should be updated with a name and grade as they get 'repeated'.

Approach:

The Scones are about 100m east of the Orara Way, 6.7km north of the Golden Dog in Glenreagh.

From Glenreagh, drive 6.3km until you see Boundary Rd on the western side of the road. Drive another 400m and park on the east side of the road, opposite the end of the long road barrier. You can see the boulders in the forest to the east. The best walking access is near the sign at the bottom of the hill. Walk 50m to the Kremnos Boulder.

The routes are described in two areas: the south and north. The south area is described starting at Kremnos boulder, going up to the crag, south along the crag and then back through the boulders. The northern areas are described from south to north.

History:

The Scones was first visited in the late 1980s by Larry Dixon and his mates but in those days 'bouldering' consisted of soloing high ball cracks and faces. Being about 20 years before the introduction of crash pads, bouldering was a lot more serious. No boulder problems were ever recorded in this era. The area saw sporadic visits over the next two decades but energy was mainly focussed on the developing sport climbing areas.

The Scones was 'rediscovered' by Ben Whittaker and Artie Schultz in the mid 2000's, who bought a modern bouldering ethic to the area. They established around 30 problems from short and steep through to high and scary including the routes on the classic Kremnos Boulder. They called the area 'Kremnos', due to the northern boundary being flanked by Kremnos creek.

1.13.1. Kremnos Boulder 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * A Volley of Dunlops

SDS, LH arete

V2Boulder 3m
2 ** The Kremonator

SDS at big hueco. Straight up. Probably harder now that the starting foothold has broken

FFA: Artie Schultz

V5Boulder 4m
3 ** Mini Ninja

SDS at big hueco. Traverse R and up.

FFA: Rhys Van Gastel

V4Boulder 4m
4 * Rumplesgotskillskin

A cool traverse under the lip left of the Scarlet Manuka, cool slopers.

FFA: Artie Schultz, Brian Cork, 2012

V2Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 * The Scarlet Manuka

SDS. Up central, juggy arete.

V1Boulder 4m
6 Cecil

SDS as per Scarlet Manuka but traverse R onto ramp.

V0Boulder 4m
7 ** Slap and Tickle

SDS overhanging wall L of RH arete.

V2Boulder 2m
8 Iron Paw

SDS, face to R of arete.

V0Boulder 3m

1.13.2. Blowboy boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

A small boulder that would be very cool if it was taller

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blowboy

Short and easy

V0Boulder
2 Blowgirl

SDS, a bit hard but too short to be worth it.

V1Boulder 2m
3 Slabblown

Back side of the boulder, couple of techy slab moves.

V1Boulder 2m

1.13.3. Low Boy Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Low Boy

SDS Short flake

V3Boulder 2m
2 Low Blow

SDS just right of corner. Up to jugs and mantle

V1Boulder 2m
3 Loafer

Rounded arete left of corner

V2Boulder 2m

1.13.4. Impossible Wall 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rangi

Slab in centre of face, left of chimney

V0Boulder 3m
2 Footrot

Right side of slab, left of chimney

V1Boulder 3m
3 * Project 22

LH arete of amazing, blank looking wall. Probably quite hard.

Boulder 4m
4 ** Project 23

Centre of face. Looks impossible.

Boulder 4m
5 * Project 24

RH arete of Impossibe Wall. Probably pretty hard too.

Boulder 4m

1.13.5. The Fortress 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dolores

Highball face left of crack

V0Boulder 6m
2 * Project 25

Highball face right of crack.

Boulder 6m
3 Jess

Highball corner crack/slab

V0Boulder 5m
4 Project 26

Highball face right of corner. Looks hard.

Boulder
5 The Cry of the Grey Ghost

Highball crack

V0Boulder

1.13.6. The Alcove 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project 14

Arete

Boulder 5m
2 Slabba Dabba Doo

Short, slabby face

V0Boulder 3m
3 Shaggy

Prominent crack left of tree

V0Boulder 4m
4 * Anti Power

Slabby face/scoop right of tree

V4Boulder 4m
5 * Block Head

Blocky face right of corner/chimney

V1Boulder 4m

1.13.7. High Ball Wall 14 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project 27

Highball crack to Offwidth. Yeesh!

Boulder 6m
2 ** Lick My Greasy Crack

Highball, orange crack.

V1Boulder 6m
3 ** Fallen Figures / Project 29

Highball arête. Not as hard as it looks, but a couple of scary moves near the top will get you thinking. Named to honour the loss of Marty and Denali Schmitt who passed away on K2 not long before the FA.

FA: Artie Schultz, 2013

V1Boulder 6m
4 Project 30

Highball face.

Boulder 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Project 31

Highball face/arete

Boulder 6m
6 Scared Frog

Highball corner crack

FFA: Brenton Owens, 2014

V1Boulder 6m
7 ** One Eye and the Optometrist

Highball face, excellent climbing

FFA: Artie Schultz, 2013

V0Boulder 7m
8 * Jug Rattler

Highball face, marginal R rating due to big rock in landing zone and possibly loose jug at 2/3 height

FFA: Artie Schultz, 2013

V0 RBoulder 7m
9 Project 35

Highball corner crack

Boulder 6m
10 Project 36

Highball face

Boulder 6m
11 Project 37

Highball face

Boulder 6m
12 Project 38

Highball face

Boulder 6m
13 Project 39

Crack

Boulder 6m
14 Project 40

Highball face left of descent gully

Boulder 6m

1.13.8. Orange Wall 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Sugar

Featured grey face left of tree

V0Boulder 6m
2 ** HoCho

Orange face to roof

V1Boulder 6m
3 Choccybiccy

Face to roof

V1Boulder 6m

1.13.9. Jam and Cream Wall 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Cream Puff

Arete

V2Boulder 4m
2 * Jam and Cream

Face 1 m right of arete

V0Boulder 4m
3 * Strudel

Face 5 m right of arete, just left of Jam and Scream

FA: Ben Whittaker, Artie Schultz

V4Boulder 5m
4 ** Jam and Scream

Crack above small cave.

V1Boulder 4m
5 Project 10

Face right of crack

Boulder Project 5m

1.13.10. South Central 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Face-scooped

Face to scoop

FFA: Artie Schultz, Brian Cork, 2012

V1Boulder 4m
2 Fed-ex

Face with letterbox slot, thus the name

FFA: Artie Schultz, Brian Cork, 2012

V1Boulder 4m
3 Project 43

Highball face right of dead log

Boulder 5m

1.13.11. Oreo 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left Oreo

Lefthand side of juggy face to ledge

V0Boulder 3m
2 * Oreo

Centre of juggy face to ledge

V0Boulder 3m
3 * Oreo Traverse

Traverse the prominent rail

V0Boulder 4m
4 * Super Cruise

Highball arete right of the Oreo

V0Boulder 5m

1.13.12. South Park 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project 49

Highball face between Oreo and the next crack

Boulder 5m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Project 50

Crack

Boulder 4m
3 Project 51

Face right of crack

Boulder 4m
4 Project 52

Face left of tiny tree on cliff

Boulder 5m
5 Project 53

Face right of tiny tree on cliff

Boulder 5m
6 Project 54

Short face

Boulder 3m
7 Project 55

Short face

Boulder 3m
8 Project 56

Very short flake to right of crack to roof

Boulder 3m

1.13.13. The Smoulder Boulders 12 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Snootch

Start left of the tree

V0Boulder 2m
2 * Cooch

Face left of arete

V0Boulder 3m
3 ** Smoulder

SDS face/arete

V1Boulder 4m
4 Donkey

Face above roof. Painful.

V3Boulder 4m
5 Horse

RH arete

V0Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Project Boulder 2m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Pew V0Boulder 3m
8 Prince Charles

Face R of tree

V0Boulder 3m
9 Project 4

Face R of corner

Boulder
10 Project 5 Boulder
11 Jambalaya

SDS, up to good sidepull and long move to the top

FFA: Brian Cork, Artie Schultz, 2012

V1Boulder
12 Skinless

SDS on angled rail, up to finish on massive horn

FFA: Artie Schultz, Brian Cork, 2012

V1Boulder 3m

1.13.14. Aussie Mateship Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 C'mon Mate

SDS Horizontal flake to jug

V0Boulder 2m
2 * Aussie Mateship

SDS Vertical flake to jug

V0Boulder 2m
3 Onya Mate

SDS Huge arete/flake

V0Boulder 2m
4 Yeah Mate

Arete

V0Boulder 3m

1.13.15. Jugville Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Horn Dog

SDS to large, prominent horn feature. There are many variations of this problem.

V0Boulder 3m
2 Jugville Central

Loads of V0 variations

V0Boulder 2m
3 Gloria's Jeans

Low Traverse right to left.

FA: David Michael, Matt Miller, 2013

V1Boulder

1.13.16. Northern Rooves 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Rasta

Roof to slopey top out. Awesome.

FFA: Luke Cornish, Artie Schultz

V3Boulder 5m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Project 12

Roof problem

Boulder 5m
3 Project 13

Bulges

Boulder 5m

1.13.17. Skip's Highball 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

A tall prominent overhang with two established highball problems so far

Approach:

About 30m north of the Northern Rooves boulders, along the same contour.

History:

Brendan Heywood snagged the FA of the left hand route in the mid 2000s. Rhys Van Gastel did the FA of the harder right hand route some time later.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Skip's Highball

Start on left block, up into break below big roof, then over the lip to huge pocket and up wall above

FFA: Brendan Heywood

V1Boulder 5m
2 Rhys's Highball

Start on right hand block, through the right side of the overhang and up the wall

FFA: Rhys Van Gastel, Artie Schultz

V3Boulder 5m

1.13.18. Graniteish Bloc 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

A black granite-looking boulder with some small crimps on it

Approach:

Just to the north and down the hill slightly from 'Skip's Highball'

History:

Ben Whittaker likely did the FA of the route to the left. Artie Schultz did the FA of the other three routes some time later.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Ben's arete

SDS on the left side of the boulder, up the arete on sidepulls and crimps.

FA: Ben Whittaker

V1Boulder 3m
2 Have a Blow Job Boys

Hard, use the tiny two finger nubbin, huck for the top.

FFA: Artie Schultz

V4Boulder 3m
3 * Have a Blow Boys

Stand start on sidepulls, too slopey hold in the middle of the wall, huck for the top

FFA: Artie Schultz

V3Boulder 3m
4 After the Blow

Not as good as the rest of the problems on this boulder

FFA: Artie Schultz

V1Boulder 3m

1.13.19. Low overhang 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

A small bloc a bit north of the Graniteish bloc

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Leftest

SDS on the left of the overhang.

FFA: Probably Ben Whittaker

V1Boulder 2m
2 Underhang

SDS right of overhang, traverse under.

FFA: Probably Ben Whittaker

V1Boulder
3 Overslap

SDS right of overhang up to obvious pocket, up and left along the lip

FFA: Artie Schultz

V2Boulder
4 Cool pocket

SDS right of overhang up to obvious pocket, exit right

FFA: Ben Whittaker

V1Boulder

1.13.20. Thread Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Thread

The southern side of the boulder with the cool thread. Don't break it.

V0Boulder 3m
2 Project

The western side of the boulder

Boulder 3m

1.13.21. Far North 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

North again from the Granitish Bloc and the Low overhang. little roof at the base to jugfest above

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left wall

Up the wall left of the little roof

V0Boulder 4m
2 Left roof

SDS under left of roof, then up the wall

FFA:

V1Boulder
3 Right Roof

SDS under right side of little roof, then up the wall on jugs.

FFA:

V1Boulder

1.14. The Cube 0 routes in Boulder

Description:

Cool Cube Shaped boulder hidden in the forest under the Waihoo Cliif line

Approach:

walk 50m from Waihoo rd to reach boulder

1.15. The Far Side 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

No one knows where The Far Side is. If you do, please edit this section (or let us know) or we may delete it soon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Avalanche Poodle Unknown
2 Trouble Brewing Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 Moist Crack Trad 6m 1.6.2. Warped Wall
Yellow Brick Road Trad 6m 1.6.2. Warped Wall
8 Snowman Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
Woman Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
9 Gazebo Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
10 Barn Storming Trad 8m 1.6.4. Grab the Gristle Area
Jester Trad 15m 1.6.5. Silk 'n' Steel Wall
Luke Warm Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
11 Like A Virgin Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
12 Shadow Trad 12m 1.1.9. The Motherlode
What Crack Unknown 8m 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
Charred Dog Trad 30m 1.6.2. Warped Wall
Cable Layer Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
Confidence Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
Shaky Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
13 When Twighlight Turns To Dark Trad 15m 1.1.1. Twilight Zone
Divorce Trad 8m 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
Cave Bird Trad 10m 1.6.7. Whipping wall
Just Add Water Mixed 8m, 1 1.7. Fun Parlour
Chalk Eye Trad 10m 1.12. Killowatts
Toe Wacker Trad 10m 1.12. Killowatts
14 Dr Farquhar's Space Age Sleeping Vessel Trad 12m 1.1.1. Twilight Zone
Brush Strokes Trad 1.1.8. Pooh Wall
Paint Spot Trad 1.1.8. Pooh Wall
Piglet Plays the Jugs (aka Pooh Scoop) Sport 14m 1.1.8. Pooh Wall
Toilet Bowl Sport 12m, 4 1.1.9. The Motherlode
Walking Antiques Sport 8m, 3 1.6.4. Grab the Gristle Area
Punters And Collectors Trad 12m 1.6.5. Silk 'n' Steel Wall
Alice In Wonderland Mixed 20m, 2 1.6.7. Whipping wall
Cold Tap Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
Pus In Boots Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
Sandcastles Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
15 * Carnage At The Mouse Machine Trad 12m 1.1.1. Twilight Zone
Gopher Unknown 15m 1.1.2. Wild Dog
Corky's Crack Trad 15m 1.1.7. Goodvibes Wall
Pooh Scoop Sport 14m, 6 1.1.8. Pooh Wall
Ethan's Tears Mixed 8m, 1 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
Knuckle Sandwich Trad 10m 1.6.7. Whipping wall
Whip It Good Sport 12m, 2 1.6.7. Whipping wall
Boot The Puss Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
Whip It Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
Cirrus Trad 12m 1.9.1. First Tier
Trinity Trad 9m 1.9.2. Second Tier
Drum Beat Trad 18m 1.10. Music Hall
V0 Cecil Boulder 4m 1.13.1. Kremnos Boulder
Iron Paw Boulder 3m 1.13.1. Kremnos Boulder
Blowboy Boulder 1.13.2. Blowboy boulder
Rangi Boulder 3m 1.13.4. Impossible Wall
Dolores Boulder 6m 1.13.5. The Fortress
Jess Boulder 5m 1.13.5. The Fortress
The Cry of the Grey Ghost Boulder 1.13.5. The Fortress
Shaggy Boulder 4m 1.13.6. The Alcove
Slabba Dabba Doo Boulder 3m 1.13.6. The Alcove
* Jug Rattler Boulder 7m 1.13.7. High Ball Wall
** One Eye and the Optometrist Boulder 7m 1.13.7. High Ball Wall
* Sugar Boulder 6m 1.13.8. Orange Wall
* Jam and Cream Boulder 4m 1.13.9. Jam and Cream Wall
Left Oreo Boulder 3m 1.13.11. Oreo
* Oreo Boulder 3m 1.13.11. Oreo
* Oreo Traverse Boulder 4m 1.13.11. Oreo
* Super Cruise Boulder 5m 1.13.11. Oreo
* Cooch Boulder 3m 1.13.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Horse Boulder 3m 1.13.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Pew Boulder 3m 1.13.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Prince Charles Boulder 3m 1.13.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Snootch Boulder 2m 1.13.13. The Smoulder Boulders
* Aussie Mateship Boulder 2m 1.13.14. Aussie Mateship Boulder
C'mon Mate Boulder 2m 1.13.14. Aussie Mateship Boulder
Onya Mate Boulder 2m 1.13.14. Aussie Mateship Boulder
Yeah Mate Boulder 3m 1.13.14. Aussie Mateship Boulder
Horn Dog Boulder 3m 1.13.15. Jugville Boulder
Jugville Central Boulder 2m 1.13.15. Jugville Boulder
Thread Boulder 3m 1.13.20. Thread Boulder
Left wall Boulder 4m 1.13.21. Far North
16 35 Degrees Mixed 15m, 5 1.1.1. Twilight Zone
Breaking Dawn Sport 10m, 3 1.1.1. Twilight Zone
Stoned Trad 15m 1.1.2. Wild Dog
Hilti Hijackers Sport 15m 1.1.4. Strong Room
Stealth Mode Mixed 15m, 2 1.1.7. Goodvibes Wall
Christopher Robbin: Toy Boy Sport 12m, 2 1.1.8. Pooh Wall
Pale Pooh Streak Sport 12m 1.1.8. Pooh Wall
The Enchanted Place Sport 12m, 3 1.1.8. Pooh Wall
Rabid Trad 12m 1.1.9. The Motherlode
Annulment Unknown 8m 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
Love And Marriage Trad 8m 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
Sally The Race Car Driver Trad 8m 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
Tink Tink Mixed 8m, 1 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
Release The Hounds Trad 12m 1.3.1. Hero Wall
Eat The Meat Mixed 10m, 2 1.6.4. Grab the Gristle Area
* King Aurther Trad 15m 1.6.5. Silk 'n' Steel Wall
Getting Up Trad 1.6.7. Whipping wall
Fart Arse Mixed 10m, 1 1.6.8. The Top Tier
Time Waster Trad 10m 1.6.8. The Top Tier
Twister Trad 10m 1.6.8. The Top Tier
Giblets Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
* Hot Tap Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
Sandman Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
Son Of A Beach Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
Wasp Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
Holy Water Trad 12m 1.9.1. First Tier
Chance Meeting Trad 10m 1.10. Music Hall
Nudge Nudge Trad 17m 1.10. Music Hall
17 ** Uzi Packing Drug Lords Trad 12m 1.1.1. Twilight Zone
Ally Cat and the Puppet Show Trad 15m 1.1.7. Goodvibes Wall
Eeor's Tail Mixed 12m, 1 1.1.8. Pooh Wall
Piglet Gets Porked Sport 15m, 3 1.1.8. Pooh Wall
* Winnie The Pooh Goes Honey Hunting Sport 12m 1.1.8. Pooh Wall
Hair of the Dog Trad 1.1.9. The Motherlode
Hairy Dog Trad 20m 1.1.9. The Motherlode
Enema Tree Trad 8m 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
Irish Dorks Mixed 8m, 1 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
Conjunctivitis Trad 10m 1.3.1. Hero Wall
Bush Wacker Trad 35m 1.5.2. Lost Boys Hideout Wall
* Tinker Bell Mixed 30m, 1 1.5.3. Dead Mans Cave Wall
Exterminator Sport 15m 1.6.4. Grab the Gristle Area
The Dodgy Brothers Trad 10m 1.6.4. Grab the Gristle Area
* Bartman Trad 15m 1.6.5. Silk 'n' Steel Wall
** Dead Poets Mixed 15m, 1 1.6.5. Silk 'n' Steel Wall
*** Father and Son Sport 12m, 3 1.6.7. Whipping wall
Working The Dog Mixed 12m, 2 1.6.7. Whipping wall
And The Cooked Mixed 10m, 1 1.7. Fun Parlour
Don't Drop The Soap Mixed 8m, 1 1.7. Fun Parlour
Funnel Web Sport 10m, 4 1.7. Fun Parlour
Lambada Mixed 8m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
Life's A Beach Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
Shady Retreat Sport 8m, 3 1.7. Fun Parlour
Steamer Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
* The Golden Dog Trad 10m 1.7. Fun Parlour
* Treeology Trad 10m 1.7. Fun Parlour
Can't Find Fun Parlour Trad 20m 1.9.1. First Tier
Her Dirty Mixed Route Mixed 25m, 2 1.12. Killowatts
Salt Trad 35m 1.12. Killowatts
Sequential mood Trad 25m 1.12. Killowatts
Thunder Mixed 13m, 1 1.12. Killowatts
18 Poltergeist Sport 12m, 3 1.1.1. Twilight Zone
Monkey Boots Mixed 19m, 5 1.1.2. Wild Dog
Prize Winning Duck Sport 10m, 4 1.1.5. The Alcove
* Steves Preposterous Hypothesis Sport 15m, 7 1.1.7. Goodvibes Wall
Tigger's Mark Sport 12m, 2 1.1.8. Pooh Wall
Cheese Cutter Trad 8m 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
* Disbelief Mixed 8m, 1 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
* King Billie Coke Bottle Trad 8m 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
* Maddened Monk Mixed 8m, 3 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
Monks Alive Mixed 10m, 3 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
Beached Sport 12m, 4 1.3.1. Hero Wall
Lets Zouk Mixed 15m, 1 1.5.1. Hide and Seek Wall
Juicy Trad 30m 1.5.2. Lost Boys Hideout Wall
Mighty Mouse Trad 25m 1.5.3. Dead Mans Cave Wall
** Blind Fury Mixed 20m, 2 1.6.2. Warped Wall
** Hope and Glory Mixed 15m, 2 1.6.2. Warped Wall
Oh the Humidity Trad 10m 1.6.2. Warped Wall
Rabid Dog Trad 20m 1.6.2. Warped Wall
Stranger In A Strange Land Sport 6m, 2 1.6.2. Warped Wall
Stranger Than Fiction Sport 6m, 2 1.6.2. Warped Wall
** Basic Instinct Mixed 25m, 3 1.6.4. Grab the Gristle Area
Sealed With A Glascow Kiss Trad 15m 1.6.4. Grab the Gristle Area
Tragically Sick Mixed 15m, 1 1.6.4. Grab the Gristle Area
* Dicky Knee Mixed 20m, 2 1.6.5. Silk 'n' Steel Wall
Burke's Backyard Trad 20m 1.6.6. Overdrive Wall
** Dino's Dilemma Trad 15m 1.6.7. Whipping wall
Bacon And Eggs Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
Chicken Heroes Trad 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
Fantasy And Fiction Sport 8m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
Powered By Bosch Sport 8m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
Quasimodo Sport 8m, 3 1.7. Fun Parlour
** Room With A View Sport 8m, 4 1.7. Fun Parlour
Sandy Sandshoes Sport 8m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
Swingin' Oldies Sport 8m, 3 1.7. Fun Parlour
Where's My Burrito Mixed 8m, 1 1.7. Fun Parlour
* Buccaneer Blood Mixed 21m, 3 1.9.1. First Tier
Grease Mantle Trad 18m 1.9.1. First Tier
Guenevere Trad 13m 1.9.1. First Tier
Merlin's Platform Trad 10m 1.9.1. First Tier
* chip Top rope 13m 1.12. Killowatts
18 A0 Prince Planet Aid 35m 1.5.2. Lost Boys Hideout Wall
19 Close Encounters Sport 8m, 3 1.1.1. Twilight Zone
The Dark Knight Sport 12m, 4 1.1.1. Twilight Zone
Adder Trad 20m 1.1.2. Wild Dog
Spanking Monkeys Trad 10m 1.1.4. Strong Room
House of Cards Sport 12m, 4 1.1.5. The Alcove
Pooh Gets A Dip In The Honey Pot Sport 12m, 2 1.1.8. Pooh Wall
Denali And Sequoia Trad 8m 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
Exit Right Pursued By Bear Mixed 8m, 1 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
** Super Grover Sport 18m, 6 1.3.1. Hero Wall
The Slippery Truth Sport 15m, 4 1.3.1. Hero Wall
Yosemite Action Hero Sport 6m, 2 1.3.1. Hero Wall
Sanction of the Victim Mixed 32m, 4 1.3.4. Deliverance Area
Tinker Bells Big Brother Mixed 20m, 2 1.5.1. Hide and Seek Wall
Angelina Jollies Jublies Trad 25m 1.5.3. Dead Mans Cave Wall
** Hydra Mixed 30m, 3 1.5.3. Dead Mans Cave Wall
Hydra's Head Trad 17m 1.5.3. Dead Mans Cave Wall
Tinker Bell Direct Trad 25m 1.5.3. Dead Mans Cave Wall
** Blind Faith Sport 20m, 4 1.6.2. Warped Wall
Bush Christening Mixed 20m, 2 1.6.2. Warped Wall
*** Canine Conflagration Trad 25m 1.6.3. Canine Wall
Don't Chew The Fat Mixed 10m, 2 1.6.4. Grab the Gristle Area
*** Grab The Gristle Sport 10m, 4 1.6.4. Grab the Gristle Area
Larry The Leisurely Lounge Lizard Mixed 15m, 1 1.6.4. Grab the Gristle Area
Pink Slip Trad 18m 1.6.4. Grab the Gristle Area
*** Dick Dastardly Mixed 15m, 1 1.6.5. Silk 'n' Steel Wall
* Fat Rich Constables Mixed 16m, 3 1.6.5. Silk 'n' Steel Wall
Adrenaline Overdrive Trad 15m 1.6.6. Overdrive Wall
** Confessions Of A Window Cleaner Sport 10m, 3 1.6.7. Whipping wall
** Whipping Boy Mixed 12m, 2 1.6.7. Whipping wall
Ballroom Blitz Mixed 8m, 1 1.7. Fun Parlour
* Deceiving Decisions Mixed 8m, 3 1.7. Fun Parlour
I Don't Mind Unknown 8m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
Phantom Cockroaches Mixed 8m, 1 1.7. Fun Parlour
* Planet Earth Mixed 8m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
* Steamy Windows Sport 8m, 3 1.7. Fun Parlour
Wedding Cake Island Sport 8m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
delete Sport 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
* delete Sport 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
Bealzibub's Revenge Mixed 12m, 1 1.9.1. First Tier
Abe's Oddesey Mixed 8m, 2 1.9.3. Third Tier
Broken Bit Unknown 8m 1.9.3. Third Tier
Flaming Moes Mixed 8m, 2 1.9.3. Third Tier
Itchy Mixed 8m, 2 1.9.3. Third Tier
* Broken Toe Trad 20m 1.10. Music Hall
Grapevine Trad 25m 1.10. Music Hall
* Mangle Sandle Trad 19m 1.10. Music Hall
Chilli Sauce Trad 20m 1.12. Killowatts
* His Dirty Mixed Route Mixed 26m, 5 1.12. Killowatts
Pink Chicks Trad 15m 1.12. Killowatts
V1 * The Scarlet Manuka Boulder 4m 1.13.1. Kremnos Boulder
Blowgirl Boulder 2m 1.13.2. Blowboy boulder
Slabblown Boulder 2m 1.13.2. Blowboy boulder
Low Blow Boulder 2m 1.13.3. Low Boy Boulder
Footrot Boulder 3m 1.13.4. Impossible Wall
* Block Head Boulder 4m 1.13.6. The Alcove
** Fallen Figures Boulder 6m 1.13.7. High Ball Wall
** Lick My Greasy Crack Boulder 6m 1.13.7. High Ball Wall
Scared Frog Boulder 6m 1.13.7. High Ball Wall
Choccybiccy Boulder 6m 1.13.8. Orange Wall
** HoCho Boulder 6m 1.13.8. Orange Wall
** Jam and Scream Boulder 4m 1.13.9. Jam and Cream Wall
* Face-scooped Boulder 4m 1.13.10. South Central
Fed-ex Boulder 4m 1.13.10. South Central
Jambalaya Boulder 1.13.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Skinless Boulder 3m 1.13.13. The Smoulder Boulders
** Smoulder Boulder 4m 1.13.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Gloria's Jeans Boulder 1.13.15. Jugville Boulder
Skip's Highball Boulder 5m 1.13.17. Skip's Highball
After the Blow Boulder 3m 1.13.18. Graniteish Bloc
* Ben's arete Boulder 3m 1.13.18. Graniteish Bloc
Cool pocket Boulder 1.13.19. Low overhang
Leftest Boulder 2m 1.13.19. Low overhang
Underhang Boulder 1.13.19. Low overhang
Left roof Boulder 1.13.21. Far North
Right Roof Boulder 1.13.21. Far North
20 * Convergence Sport 10m, 4 1.1.1. Twilight Zone
** Solar Flare Sport 13m, 4 1.1.1. Twilight Zone
Thin Red Line Mixed 12m, 2 1.1.4. Strong Room
* John West Sport 12m, 5 1.1.5. The Alcove
* Cosmic Turtle Sport 15m, 4 1.1.7. Goodvibes Wall
* Sneaky Snake Flake Sport 20m, 5 1.1.7. Goodvibes Wall
Caught on Film Sport 13m, 5 1.4. Obscurity Wall
Battle of Evermore Mixed 70m, 6 1.5.2. Lost Boys Hideout Wall
Boulder S Trad 25m 1.5.2. Lost Boys Hideout Wall
Captain America Mixed 25m, 4 1.5.3. Dead Mans Cave Wall
The Phantom Sport 25m, 8 1.5.3. Dead Mans Cave Wall
* Bounty's Revenge Mixed 15m, 2 1.6.2. Warped Wall
Warped Minds Mixed 15m, 2 1.6.2. Warped Wall
Bitter Fingers Trad 10m 1.6.4. Grab the Gristle Area
* Dead Heart Trad 15m 1.6.7. Whipping wall
** Empty Pockets Sport 10m, 3 1.6.7. Whipping wall
Blue Sky Mining Mixed 10m, 1 1.6.8. The Top Tier
** (Unknown 1) Sport 8m 1.7. Fun Parlour
* Bubble And Squeak Mixed 8m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
Cosmic Energy Sport 8m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
* Intreeg Mixed 10m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
* Light And Easy Sport 8m, 4 1.7. Fun Parlour
Obscure Route Mixed 8m, 1 1.7. Fun Parlour
Rags To Riches Sport 8m, 3 1.7. Fun Parlour
** You Can't Touch This Sport 8m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
Alice's Crux Sport 10m, 4 1.9.1. First Tier
Merlin's Apprentice Mixed 10m, 1 1.9.1. First Tier
The Cauldron Sport 15m, 5 1.9.2. Second Tier
Grass Roots Trad 8m 1.9.3. Third Tier
** Rain Dance Trad 20m 1.10. Music Hall
* Wink Wink Trad 15m 1.10. Music Hall
* Thursday Trad 35m 1.11. Bunyip
V2 * A Volley of Dunlops Boulder 3m 1.13.1. Kremnos Boulder
* Rumplesgotskillskin Boulder 3m 1.13.1. Kremnos Boulder
** Slap and Tickle Boulder 2m 1.13.1. Kremnos Boulder
Loafer Boulder 2m 1.13.3. Low Boy Boulder
* Cream Puff Boulder 4m 1.13.9. Jam and Cream Wall
Overslap Boulder 1.13.19. Low overhang
21 ** Moon Shadow Mixed 20m, 5 1.1.2. Wild Dog
* Jeff's Live Round Sport 8m, 3 1.1.4. Strong Room
** Magic Dick Sixteen Sport 15m, 3 1.1.4. Strong Room
** Milk and Honey Sport 15m, 5 1.1.5. The Alcove
** Narcissus Raining Down Mixed 10m, 3 1.1.6. Narcissus Roof
Sickle Trad 15m 1.1.9. The Motherlode
*** Birthday Suit Mixed 8m, 2 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
Beached DS Sport 15m, 4 1.3.1. Hero Wall
Salsa Sport 7m, 2 1.3.1. Hero Wall
Scribblenaut Sport 12m, 4 1.3.1. Hero Wall
Angels of Babylon Mixed 25m, 1 1.5.2. Lost Boys Hideout Wall
Slip it in if it Feels Good (project) Mixed Project 25m, 1 1.5.3. Dead Mans Cave Wall
*** The Shadow Mixed 25m, 6 1.5.3. Dead Mans Cave Wall
* Wet Dreams Sport 10m, 2 1.6.2. Warped Wall
*** Well Hung Mixed 20m, 3 1.6.3. Canine Wall
*** Silk 'N' Steel Trad 20m 1.6.5. Silk 'n' Steel Wall
** Zarzoff Sport 10m, 3 1.6.6. Overdrive Wall
* Flat Batteries Sport 8m, 3 1.7. Fun Parlour
* Long Tall Texan Mixed 10m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
Power And The Passion Sport 8m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
* The Raw Sport 10m, 4 1.7. Fun Parlour
* Freestisla Mixed 18m, 4 1.9.1. First Tier
** Hedron Trad 21m 1.9.1. First Tier
Lose Control Trad 21m 1.9.1. First Tier
Silicosis Sport 12m, 3 1.9.1. First Tier
Whiskey Water Mixed 10m, 2 1.9.1. First Tier
Scratchy Unknown 8m 1.9.3. Third Tier
Mobile Moments Trad 12m 1.10. Music Hall
*** I'll follow the sun Trad 35m 1.11. Bunyip
** Woosca Trad 35m 1.11. Bunyip
Cinders Trad 20m 1.12. Killowatts
Pepper Trad 35m 1.12. Killowatts
22 * Paranormal Sport 13m, 4 1.1.1. Twilight Zone
Dicky Seat Sport 7m, 2 1.1.4. Strong Room
** Missing Monkeys Sport 15m, 3 1.1.4. Strong Room
** The Malloy Sport 15m, 5 1.1.5. The Alcove
Adventures In Retro Land Sport 20m, 4 1.1.7. Goodvibes Wall
*** Andy Goodvibes Sport 18m, 7 1.1.7. Goodvibes Wall
* Fashion Nugget Sport 15m 1.1.7. Goodvibes Wall
* Pimp My Vagrant Ride Sport 15m, 5 1.1.7. Goodvibes Wall
Beached Az Sport 18m, 6 1.3.1. Hero Wall
* The Pretender Sport 15m, 5 1.3.1. Hero Wall
** Down on the Upside Sport 15m, 5 1.3.2. Soundgarden Cave
Chubba The Hutt Sport 15m, 5 1.4. Obscurity Wall
Pixelated Sport 15m, 5 1.4. Obscurity Wall
Acts Of Sublimation Mixed 27m, 5 1.5.2. Lost Boys Hideout Wall
The Antichrist Mixed 30m, 7 1.5.2. Lost Boys Hideout Wall
** Robot Zombie Pigs Sport 13m, 5 1.5.4. New Wall
*** Mind Warp Sport 15m, 4 1.6.2. Warped Wall
*** Hot Blooded Mixed 20m, 4 1.6.3. Canine Wall
* Rum And Coke Sport 8m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
Short And Sweet Mixed 8m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
Summer Sport 8m, 3 1.7. Fun Parlour
Krusty Mixed 8m, 2 1.9.3. Third Tier
Iron John Unknown 20m 1.10. Music Hall
** War Dance Unknown 25m 1.10. Music Hall
Sticky Fingers Mixed 25m, 4 1.11. Bunyip
V3 * Low Boy Boulder 2m 1.13.3. Low Boy Boulder
Donkey Boulder 4m 1.13.13. The Smoulder Boulders
** Rasta Boulder 5m 1.13.16. Northern Rooves
Rhys's Highball Boulder 5m 1.13.17. Skip's Highball
* Have a Blow Boys Boulder 3m 1.13.18. Graniteish Bloc
23 Project Sport 15m, 5 1.1.1. Twilight Zone
The New Oriental Chinese Restaurant Trad 1.1.1. Twilight Zone
Sting Mixed 15m, 3 1.1.2. Wild Dog
Shane Of The Jungle Sport 8m 1.1.4. Strong Room
* White Lane Sport 7m, 2 1.1.4. Strong Room
Elders Have Wisdom Sport 16m, 5 1.1.5. The Alcove
* Groovin the Move Sport 10m, 4 1.1.5. The Alcove
*** Sex And Drugs On The Rock And Roll Sport 15m, 7 1.1.5. The Alcove
*** Tim's Vital Life Juice Sport 15m, 4 1.1.5. The Alcove
Wet Patch Sport 15m, 6 1.1.5. The Alcove
* Wisdom Of Youth Sport 20m, 5 1.1.5. The Alcove
* Wisdom Of Youth VS Sport 15m, 5 1.1.5. The Alcove
Will of the Word Sport 15m, 5 1.1.7. Goodvibes Wall
** Parting Gesture Mixed 8m, 2 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
*** Sherrif Mixed 8m, 2 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
** Talking Marmots Sport 12m, 6 1.3.2. Soundgarden Cave
Wet Celebrations Sport 15m, 5 1.4. Obscurity Wall
* Sky's The Limit Mixed 47m, 12 1.5.3. Dead Mans Cave Wall
Subliminal Erotica Mixed 8m, 2 1.6.2. Warped Wall
*** Misery Mixed 25m, 3 1.6.5. Silk 'n' Steel Wall
** Sibling Rivalry Sport 15m, 3 1.6.7. Whipping wall
** Silver And Gold Sport 8m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
* Walt Disney's Picking Strawberries Sport 8m, 2 1.7. Fun Parlour
** Second Line Sport 18m 1.8.1. Main Wall
Seaena Sport 25m, 6 1.9.1. First Tier
The Blasphemous Traverse of the Infidel Mixed Project 70m, 5 1.9.1. First Tier
V4 ** Mini Ninja Boulder 4m 1.13.1. Kremnos Boulder
* Anti Power Boulder 4m 1.13.6. The Alcove
* Strudel Boulder 5m 1.13.9. Jam and Cream Wall
Have a Blow Job Boys Boulder 3m 1.13.18. Graniteish Bloc
24 ** Niles Roof Sport 8m, 5 1.1.3. Niles Roof Area
(Unknown 1) Sport 15m 1.1.4. Strong Room
Agent Mulder Sport 15m, 5 1.1.4. Strong Room
Black And White Sport 8m 1.1.4. Strong Room
Jeff's Orange Barf Sport 10m, 3 1.1.4. Strong Room
Unknown Sport 12m, 3 1.1.4. Strong Room
** Alter Ego Sport 12m, 5 1.1.5. The Alcove
Elders Voodoo Sport Project 12m, 5 1.1.5. The Alcove
** Kanoon Mixed 12m, 4 1.1.5. The Alcove
* Lewis The Crag Dog Sport 15m, 4 1.1.5. The Alcove
** Marty's Route Sport 16m, 5 1.1.5. The Alcove
New Slang Sport 15m, 5 1.1.5. The Alcove
Former Special Agent Sport 12m, 3 1.3.1. Hero Wall
* Iago Sport 32m, 8 1.3.4. Deliverance Area
** Time Thief Sport 15m, 6 1.4. Obscurity Wall
* Astro Boy Trad 35m 1.5.2. Lost Boys Hideout Wall
Captain Fantastic Trad Project 1.5.3. Dead Mans Cave Wall
Strong Like Bull Sport 20m 1.5.3. Dead Mans Cave Wall
*** Stairway To Heaven Mixed 25m, 4 1.6.3. Canine Wall
* Indecent Proposal Sport 15m, 3 1.6.7. Whipping wall
* Third Line Sport 18m 1.8.1. Main Wall
25 Homo Gordonis Sport 12m 1.1.4. Strong Room
* Leaking Boy Beno Sport 16m, 4 1.1.4. Strong Room
Unknown 2 Sport 12m, 4 1.1.4. Strong Room
*** White Man's Voodoo Sport 15m, 4 1.1.5. The Alcove
** Allypop And The Ice-Man Sport 15m, 4 1.1.7. Goodvibes Wall
*** Synchronicity Trad 12m 1.3.1. Hero Wall
Arboretum Sport 18m, 5 1.3.2. Soundgarden Cave
*** Feed The Rat Trad 50m 1.5.3. Dead Mans Cave Wall
** The Specialist (project) Sport Project 15m, 6 1.5.4. New Wall
Eat This White Chump Sport 8m 1.6.1. The Change Room
*** White Chump Sport 8m 1.6.1. The Change Room
On A Crimp And A Prayer Mixed 15m, 5 1.6.2. Warped Wall
Tomorrow Boy Sport 10m, 4 1.6.2. Warped Wall
Glycerine Sport 15m, 3 1.6.3. Canine Wall
Fast Day In Paradise Sport 15m, 6 1.6.5. Silk 'n' Steel Wall
Arties Project Sport 12m 1.9.1. First Tier
V5 ** The Kremonator Boulder 4m 1.13.1. Kremnos Boulder
26 * New Moon Sport 12m, 3 1.1.1. Twilight Zone
* Bourbon Street Direct Sport 15m, 6 1.1.5. The Alcove
* Poor Man On Bourbon Street Sport 15m, 6 1.1.5. The Alcove
*** Overshadowed Sport 25m 1.1.9. The Motherlode
Eat This G-Man Sport 8m 1.6.1. The Change Room
Polly Pussy Arms Sport 15m, 4 1.6.3. Canine Wall
*** Pseudomonas Trad 15m 1.6.5. Silk 'n' Steel Wall
The Mission Sport 15m, 5 1.6.5. Silk 'n' Steel Wall
Sex in Space Sport 15m, 6 1.8.1. Main Wall
27 *** Agent Scully Sport 15m, 4 1.1.4. Strong Room
*** Laaabia Sport 15m, 5 1.1.5. The Alcove
* Rubik's Roof Sport 15m 1.1.7. Goodvibes Wall
Defence Mode Sport 8m 1.6.1. The Change Room
V7 ** The Undresser Boulder 3m 1.6.1. The Change Room
28 Monkey See, Monkey Do Sport 15m 1.1.7. Goodvibes Wall
Shit Chick Sport 15m, 3 1.6.6. Overdrive Wall
? Project Sport 1.1.3. Niles Roof Area
Project 2? Sport 1.1.7. Goodvibes Wall
Project Sport Project 1.1.9. The Motherlode
(Project) Trad Project 12m 1.2. Sherwood Buttress
Nicks Project Sport Project 13m 1.3.1. Hero Wall
Brian pro Sport Project 15m, 5 1.3.2. Soundgarden Cave
Art Project Sport 6 1.3.3. White Wall
Project 1 Sport 15m, 3 1.3.3. White Wall
Project 2 Sport 4 1.3.3. White Wall
Concerto of Deliverence Trad 32m 1.3.4. Deliverance Area
Joes Climb (Project) Trad 1.5.1. Hide and Seek Wall
Sneak it In (Project) Trad Project 17m 1.5.1. Hide and Seek Wall
The Hulk - 'Closed Project' Trad Project 30m 1.5.2. Lost Boys Hideout Wall
‘Project' - Drop Zone Trad Project 45m 1.5.2. Lost Boys Hideout Wall
Open Project 1 Sport 15m, 3 1.6.6. Overdrive Wall
First Line Sport 12m 1.8.1. Main Wall
Bruce's Project Trad 18m 1.9.1. First Tier
385 Parts per Million Trad Project 25m 1.11. Bunyip
Sweet Glenreagh Mixed Project 25m, 4 1.11. Bunyip
Flamingo Crack Trad 1.12. Killowatts
* Project 22 Boulder 4m 1.13.4. Impossible Wall
** Project 23 Boulder 4m 1.13.4. Impossible Wall
* Project 24 Boulder 4m 1.13.4. Impossible Wall
* Project 25 Boulder 6m 1.13.5. The Fortress
Project 26 Boulder 1.13.5. The Fortress
Project 14 Boulder 5m 1.13.6. The Alcove
Project 27 Boulder 6m 1.13.7. High Ball Wall
Project 30 Boulder 6m 1.13.7. High Ball Wall
Project 31 Boulder 6m 1.13.7. High Ball Wall
Project 35 Boulder 6m 1.13.7. High Ball Wall
Project 36 Boulder 6m 1.13.7. High Ball Wall
Project 37 Boulder 6m 1.13.7. High Ball Wall
Project 38 Boulder 6m 1.13.7. High Ball Wall
Project 39 Boulder 6m 1.13.7. High Ball Wall
Project 40 Boulder 6m 1.13.7. High Ball Wall
Project 10 Boulder Project 5m 1.13.9. Jam and Cream Wall
Project 43 Boulder 5m 1.13.10. South Central
Project 49 Boulder 5m 1.13.12. South Park
Project 50 Boulder 4m 1.13.12. South Park
Project 51 Boulder 4m 1.13.12. South Park
Project 52 Boulder 5m 1.13.12. South Park
Project 53 Boulder 5m 1.13.12. South Park
Project 54 Boulder 3m 1.13.12. South Park
Project 55 Boulder 3m 1.13.12. South Park
Project 56 Boulder 3m 1.13.12. South Park
Project Boulder 2m 1.13.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Project 4 Boulder 1.13.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Project 5 Boulder 1.13.13. The Smoulder Boulders
Project 12 Boulder 5m 1.13.16. Northern Rooves
Project 13 Boulder 5m 1.13.16. Northern Rooves
Project Boulder 3m 1.13.20. Thread Boulder
Avalanche Poodle Unknown 1.15. The Far Side
Trouble Brewing Unknown 1.15. The Far Side