Routes as trad in Glenreagh

Far right side. Start 4 R of O climb up corner. Anchor long slings 2 boulders.

2m R of O.start right of blackboy. Small run out at the end. last break too dirty for gear. Anchor tree and boulder. Long slings.

Middle of wall . Start above blackboy climb up to base of tree. Tree anchor

Left of Othila.

6m R of updl. Start above small cave, up to vertical crack, then another smaller cave, over this to ledge. Tree anchor.climb

Up Wall on Trad Gear

Up flack and through bulge

climbs the right leaning orange crack

the corner crack on left of wall

Up short corner and wall through overlap and up to anchors.

Up Crack and wall on trad gear.

Start on face and cnr crack below first BR and fig tree. Can solo to first BR. Follow BR and crack line to top. (Don't use tree) 5 BR's plus SLCD. Tree Belay Single BR for directional.

5m right of Moon Shadow. Follow crack to top. Finish to the right of tree. Crux at top. Most of the climb is 16-18 but the top move is a little scary and is about 19. Natural Pro and belay.

1m right of 'Adder'. Up face to tree. 3BRs plus SLCD's. Tree Belay.

The arete 5/6m right of 'Adder'. Start around on the right face. Use brass offset or RP past first BR. A little contrived but generally follow arete and BR's. Beware Chossy rock. 5 BR's plus 2 natural. DB Belay.

The second obvious crack to the right of 'Monkey Boots'. Crack to tree then Cnr crack to top. Beware loose rocks. Natural Pro and Belay.

Super fun flake/crack up the middle of Lama Land. Bolt belay.

Short corner crack then up through breaks to top, natural gear.

4m right of 'Hilti Hijackers', and around the corner on the East facing wall. Up to obvious small ledge then up seemingly empty wall, finish at anchors for MDS. 2 BRs

The corner at the right hand end. Up the corner on natural gear, clip bolt before huge move. Head left to anchors.

It’s the only route on the wall. Up past 2 bolts and a piece of gear to roof, and last bolt to lower off

Up the nice corner crack, step left around the roof and then tend right to the bolts at the lip.

About 2m right of Corkys Crack. Up the wall past 2 bolts and then through the rooflet on trad gear. Anchor bolts at the lip. A little bit spicy.

Obvious Corner Crack. Up into the juggy corner, around the roof and up a nice hand crack to a tree.

1m right of TM. Natural gear (cams) in breaks, 1 fixed hanger, finish at rings above TM

3m right of WTPGHH around where there is a dish like depression half way up.

1m right of PS

Project on the left side of the ML. This route involves a series of roofs with steep walls in between. Going to take some serious work to unlock its sequences

The corner crack, all natural gear, traverse right at the top to join the anchors of TB.

Natural crack split through blank slab to double ring belay

20 metres around the corner from R. Natural gear, 2 large cams are useful. Offwidth start leads to small grassy ledge. Over bulge then traverse right and up gully. Top out for tree belay.

Start 5 meters right of HOTD up finger crack in corner topped by what appears to be a loose block (actually solidly wedged) then traverse left and join HOTD. Avoids offwidth start.

A fantastic obvious crack line. Horizontal breaks lead to fist jams followed by finger crack to ledge. Small to medium cams and wires.

The Obvious trad corner crack in centre of wall. Up to ledge and anchors above FSA

Climb flake and arete to get to 5m horizontal roof. Fire our roof near finger crack to anchors over lip.

All Trad up crack and left at top to anchor for TST

Possibly the worst, documented route in the Coffs Area. An adventure route that is the antithesis of the neighboring sport climbs. About 30 m past the White Wall, before you get to the main Deliverance Area.

1. 15m. Delicately up the orange, chossy, corner crack to the base of the chimney.

2. 15m. Struggle and stem your way up the flairing off-width/chimney on reasonable rock until you reach the overhanging soil. Detour left around the arete onto poorly protected slopers and bushes before crawling across a ledge back into the main crack system.

3. 5m. Enjoy a surprisingly nice stemming crack to the summit.

Climb 4 to 5m through slightly reachy and mildly overhung section until small arete is reached . Move up this for a few metres and then move into corner , use corner and wall until crack is reached then up crack to lower off chains

start near beehive. still a project

Corner Crack on Right side of wall. no anchors except you can traverse left to anchor on project

Mixed route of zigzagging cracks with anchors

Up the short corner past wire to tree, then easily up wide corner crack to anchors of Rubber Toe. Readily TR from these anchors if you don’t have big gear.

Climb Rat Attack and step left under roof

Start up Chimney to ledge, then up beautiful corner crack to roof and traverse right under roof to anchors.

Climb Chimney as for Rat attack then traverse right on underclings to gain crack and flake. Up past a couple of bolts to anchors on the right of the tree.

The fantastic looking crack system seen overhead to the right during approach to the crag, starting in gully off to the right. Scramble down from main crag or alternate approach from main access trail by heading right along base cliff before the fixed roped section.

Mantle daintily onto first ledge, place first good gear at back of rooflette then pull bouldery move up and into main crack system. Great protection the whole way.

above chain belay on ledge. This climb is more to the left on wall it is very obvious crack . Finish at ledge at chains.

Hard to get to start as a little obscure and a short climb involved , but climb up at left end of this area and gingerly make your way to centre of wall . Traverse left and up for 6m past 1 ring bolt then up for 3m to another ring then up and right using big overlap.Finish at chains.

Start as per Tinker Bells BB but only traverse left for a few metres and then follow rings straight up. Project Marc Bailey

Start as per TBBB but at ring bolt go straight up and right to another ring then straight up to gain crack and then to chains

Approx 10m left of The Battle of Evermore. Up blocky broken corner crack to chains at 20m. Then up wide crack to a tricky finish to chains at Lost World Wall. All natural.

Start approx 8m left of Sublimation. 1st pitch 30m – 20. Start in open book corner. Stay on left side of crack. Thru slightly overhung section trending left to chains. All natural. 2nd pitch 20m – 20. Straight up past 2 BR & cams to chains. 3rd pitch 20m – 17. Straight up past 4 BR & cams to chains.

Start as for Battle of Evermore but at 4m veer right up over bulge with BR then follow arête to chains. BR and cams.

Open book corner approx 8m left of The Antichrist. Up open book corner to roof, traverse right 3m past 2 BR then straight up wall to ring bolts. 5 BR & small to medium cams

Thin crack 3m left of the start of The Antichrist. Originally perceived by Terry Bernutt but has since been handed on to Marc Bailey. Closed project.

Up obvious corner crack to small roof at 5m, exit roof left. Straight up to roof with 2 FH then up wall to Lost Boys Hideout. Cams, 5 BR, 2 FH, DBB.

Start as for Antichrist but exit small roof at 5m on the right side. Up obvious corner and crack to Lost Boys Hideout. Natural pro, belay at chains.

Start 7m left of Hydra - 1st pitch 18m 20. Up wall veering a little right, up crack to ledge then over bulge & thru small roof to ledge with chains – 2nd pitch 17m – 24. Up wall and thru roof (crux) continue up to Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. Can be done as single pitch. BR, cams, nuts.

Start 1m right of Astro Boy. Up wall to slabby section then climb over large boulder & thru juggy roof to chains. A few small to med cams & BRs. Marc Bailey, Bruce Jones

Arête 5m right of Astro Boy 2m left of Hydra the start of Dead Man's Cave wall. Crux is the first 3m of the climb. Varied climbing up arête, start on right side then switch to left up small slab then back right follow BRs. Belay at 35m at chains to help avoid rope drag then up wall to hanging chain belay. 12 BR, 4 or 5 cams

The obvious left hand corner crack at the start of Dead mans cave. Climb crack past 3 BR's to anchors on ledge.

The real extension to Hydra, pack your big boy pants. From anchors of hydra head up and left towards arête. Before you get there head back right via horizontal break and then straight up via bolt to DBB.

Continuation of Hydra. At top of Hydra traverse left past bolts at Sky's the Limit then veer right thru weakness then back left to hanging chain belay at Sky's The Limit. A little contrived. BR & natural.

Start 7m right of Hydra. Up wall past 2 BRs then up over bulge 2 BRs (stay on left side of these bolts) veering slightly left onto ledge reach up and place a good small cam before moving straight up the wall to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.

Start as for Captain America but climb on the right of the 3rd & 4th BRs. Then straight up wall past 2 BRs to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.

The things you do when you are bored and it's raining and you want to climb. A metre to the left of Tinker Bell. Finish at ledge as per Tinker Bell and The Shadow. Project Marc Bailey

Start up crack 1m right of Captain America to ledge and climb up following the large flake right and back left to the ledge above reach up and clip the BR before hauling up over the roof on big jugs to DBB in Dead Man's Cave. Bring natural pro 1 BR.

As for Tinker Bell but half way up flake move left and straight up past one BR to then rejoin the top of original climb.

Start as for Tinker Bell (this is left of actual climb but this way you avoid a big loose block) climb easily to ledge move right, clip bolt & then straight up to Dead Man's Cave. DBB. Natural pro & BR.

Two pitch extension out of Dead Mans Cave starting 3m L of Tinkerbell's DBB up the roof crack, finishing at the DBB of 'Sky's the Limit'. 1st pitch: 24 (Yet to be freed), 2nd pitch: 21

Finger crack 8m right of The Shadow. Up crack then veer right to another crack then up wall to chains. BRs, cams & nuts

Approx 40m to the right of Mighty Mouse. Stellar route that has it all. Is often overlooked as the bottom is a bit wet. Starts off dirty/wet ledge under obvious corner. First pitch (19): up corner (carrots and cams) then trend slightly right to just under roof (cams & carrot bolt for belay). Second pitch (25): Short and punchy. Follow carrots through roof to chains. Third pitch (22): Beautiful headwall. Head straight up on carrots and cams (up to No.4 camalot) to mixed hanging belay just below slab. Fourth pitch (24): Fight your way up slab (trending right) using tiny under clings to easier ground and the top. Belay off big tree.

Start on the block below the right leaning crack. Up crack then wall with small iron hand holds, wires low down then 3 BR's to the top.

In the same alcove as FANTASY AND FICTION, 2m right. Don't use the block on the right hand side, you cheat! 1 bolt and a large cam.

A funky looking crack left of the big overhang (ROOM WITH A VIEW), up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top.

One of the first routes done here. A wide corner rack, bridge and jam.

"Ready Steve, alright fellas, lets go......". The narrow wall 1m right of SILVER AND GOLD. Large Friend and 1 bolt. A little contrived, don't bridge off the right hand wall. Techno and streno. (Sorry Ralph!)

The crack in the corner just right of BALLROOM BLITZ. Named after the feeling you get just after you put on your harness. Bridge and jam.

A classic. The wall right of CABLE LAYER. Another Ramones inspired route. Large cam in cave and 2 bolts.

The next crack right of PLANET EARTH. A flared crack in a steep wall, hard jamming to top.

A steep jam crack, better than it looks.

The corner right of SANDY SANDSHOES. Neil's first route! Up onto the step then bridge up corner.

A juggy looking wall with poor pro up high. A large cam about half height, a 1/2 inch Hero loop over the chicken head and a small wire for pro.

A crack with a cave near the top. The first rack right of CHICKEN HEROES. Hard start then easier climbing to top.

Up trad crack and tend right to carrot bolt on arete.

A couple of metres right of STEAMY WINDOWS. A little contrived but an excellent route if you keep over to the left. Steep and juggy to start, leading to a flake and easy finish. 1 bolt plus small trad gear to tree belay.

The left hand arete of the "Shower Recess". Up the arete then easily to top. A great beginners' route.

The left hand corner of the "Shower Recess". Up the corner with jugs to tree belay. The first good route climbed at the Fun Parlour (and possibly all of the Coffs area).

The right hand corner of the "Shower Recess" Short but much harder than it looks. Sustained.

The right arete of the "Shower Recess". Low angle arete with one bolt and trad gear. Cruise up and right on jugs to top to a double bolt belay.

The face 3m right of the 'Shower Recess'. Up to horizontal break (cam) then up steep wall past one or two bolts to a double bolt belay.

The right side of the wall to the right of the "Shower Recess". Beautiful! Do it! Up bulging wall to top. 2 bolts.

One of the first routs at this cliff by the Dodgy Brothers. A fist sized crack in a short wall. Strait up. Right of SHORT AND SWEET.

A very short wall between SNOWMAN and WOMAN. Nice moves.

A waste of space. No .. not women .. just this route. A very short crack. More of a quick way to the top of the cliff.

2m right of WALT DISNEY'S PICKING STRAWBERRIES. A crack then wall. Small cams and 2 bolts. Be gentle on the footholds up high. Quite nice.

Right of SUMMER. A crack in a steep wall next to the big Blackbutt tree. Natural pro. Strenuous start, scary in the middle and a tricky finish. A lot of fun.

Great fun. Superb moves. A couple of metres right of TREEOLOGY. Swing up the wall. 2 bolts and some natural pro.