Godzone Mostly Trad climbing28 routes in crag
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Most of the route descriptions were provided by Bruce Jones www.verticalmania.com. The order of the routes is uncertain and should be edited here when someone can verify them.
Access from the top (2wd) From Coffs Harbour go out along Coramba Road to Nana Glen. At Nana Glen turn right onto Bucca Rd. Continue on across a bridge until you come to a road on the left called Morrows Rd. Turn Left into Morrows Road and set your odomenter to zero:
0.0km - Follow Morrows Rd for a few kilometers where it forks.
5.0km - Take the right fork across the railway line. The road now becomes Waihou Rd. Keep going up zig zags until you reach Sherwood Forest Rd
Turn a sharp left onto Sherwood Forest Road. Continue along Sherwood Forest Road until you drive Past Communications tower and the road heads down and right (*needs kms here). After a while you will come to a creek crossing. park here. you can drive through easily with a 4wd but the water is deeper than it first looks. Follow track going down and around to the right to bottom of crag.
Alternatively you can access Sherwood Forest Road from via Bucca road or through Woolgoolga.
If you have a monster truck you can access the top of the Godzone via Glenreagh too. Take the Upper Corindi Road out of Glenreagh and head towards Middle Creek. A few kilometres out along the dirt you will come to a very steep, rough track on the right (as you drive down a slight hill there is a sharp right hand turn (4 o'clock)). Follow this track until you come to a large clearing at a creek. Park here. Track to climbs starts over the other side of the creek. Follow track going down and around to the right to bottom of crag.
Ethic inherited from Coffs Harbour
Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.
From www.verticalmania.com: Larry Dixon, climber and raft guide from Ulong originally found and named the Gods Cliff (now called Godzone) some time in 1982. He so named the crag due to a large cross (crucifix) and altar we found under the large overhang. Later Gavin Dean and Al Stephens did two single pitch routes to the left of the large overhang but didn't record them - approx grade 16/17. Gavin also did some very short routes near the overhang. Not much was recorded since this time until 1996 when Mal Drummond, F. Schlechtriem, and Bruce Jones began putting up new routes in the area. There is still much potential and the following recorded routes are well worth the effort.
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