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Approach

Park at the end of the road and around to the right under the power lines. Walk right (facing outward), down towards creek (usually very little water in creek). Don’t cross creek but vere left towards the cliff edge. Scramble down where creek cuts through cliff or abseil over. The scramble is ok but a little sketchy in places.Walk back under cliff (away from creek) Climbs are to your right with 'Chalk Eye' being around 30m away. Climbs are described Left to Right.

Ethic inherited from Coffs Harbour

Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
13 Chalk Eye Trad 10m

This climb is designed to be a novice's first lead, It is all natural with good placements for SLCD. A chain belay is waiting on a reasonable ledge

FA: Bruce Jones

2
17 Salt Trad 35m

Vere left for 3m from start, 2NP one near start for belayer/2nd. Slight run out after 2nd pro. Straight up for next bit, 2 BR's, then a NP. Vere left 1.5m along a ledge to next BR, the NP belay. Easy top pitch with a couple of NP. Go around to the right of small tree near top. If doing in one pitch watch for rope line.

FA: Bruce Jones

3
19 Chilli Sauce Trad 20m

Start as for Salt. Natural up to first bolt runner (3m) on face next to honey comb section. Climbs tends to the left. Up onto sloppy ledge. Run out to next bolt runner or find a natural. This bit can be a little tricky if you are not feeling confident. Clip next bolt and up over small overhang. Another bolt on next small overhang. Up and on top of this to balance up a face, BR on face. Up and onto large ledge. NP on ledge then out to the left to go to the chain. More NP available if needed.

FA: Bruce Jones

4
21 Pepper Trad 35m

Start as for salt. Vere right for 2m to top of honeycomb. Up through V shape to the left. Follow BR line to belay ledge. 4BR's, 2 NP to belay ledge. Climb can be finished at this ledge, by going to the chain on Chilli Sauce to the left. Watch out for the wasp that inhabit the crack on the big ledge.

FA: Bruce Jones

5
17 Sequential mood Trad 25m

Start on face right of pepper. 5 bolt runners plus natural. Might be a good one to practice with two ropes. Up face to first BR. NP to gain 2nd BR. Straight up a little left of overhang to gain BR on overhang face. Travers across to the right to big ledge. Clip BR then up onto face, then traverse left passed two BR's. Continue slightly left and up running it out to big ledge on left. Continue left traverse to chain on left above large ledge.

FA: Bruce Jones

6
13 Toe Wacker Trad 10m

NP route. Up the open book cnr crack, then traverse to line above the bolt on T. Follow the NP line taking you around the left of the face. Up to chain belay under ledge.

FA: Bruce Jones

7
18 * chip Top rope 13m

Direct route with same start as thunder. First move would be a 19 and don't use the thin crack on the left after gaining first ledge.

FA: Bruce Jones, 2002

8
17 Thunder Mixed 13m, 1

First move is more a 18/19. For an easier start move left about half way between Thunder and Toe Wacker - move up for about half a move then traverse to bolt. Probably more in-keeping with the overall grade. Clip first bolt then NP to top. Same top section as TW. Sweet hand Jam just above 2nd pro. Follow the NP line taking you around the right of the face. Up to chain belay under ledge.

Set by Bruce Jones, 2002

FA: Bruce Jones, 2002

9
17 Her Dirty Mixed Route Mixed 25m, 2

Start about 5m left of Cinders. Straight up crack for about 12m - natural pro. After clipping first ring bolt head slightly left and up thru open book corner past one more ring bolt and natural pro to chains

FFA: Marc Bailey, 6th Jul

FA: Marc Bailey, 6th Jul

10
19 * His Dirty Mixed Route Mixed 26m, 5

Start about 5m left of Cinders. Straight up crack for about 12m - natural pro (same first 12m as Her Dirty Mixed Route ). After clipping first ring bolt traverse right about 1m and up past 2 more ring bolts and natural pro to small ledge . Clip ring on ledge before clipping ring just around small roof .Climbed left of last ring to double lower off rings at top to keep grade as listed or up the grade a few notches by staying right of last ring.

FFA: Marc Bailey, 6th Jul

FA: Marc Bailey, 6th Jul

11
21 Cinders Trad 20m

Nice balancy start. Crux move half way up with an undercling using high feet. (probably easier if you are tall). Some surprisingly nice holds on this interesting route. Chain for belay.

Set by Bruce Jones

FA: Bruce Jones, 2002

12
19 Pink Chicks Trad 15m

An all natural crack route a few meters left of 'Flamingo Crack'. Move to top of crack then mosey left following NP line to finish at a chain belay. A little strength zapping but nice.

FA: Bruce Jones

13

Open book corner crack to the far right of the crag. Before the crag section breaks up Follow crack line to chain on left. Easier than it looks. NP. Belay off chain or natural.

FA: Bruce Jones

Open trips

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