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Ethic inherited from Coffs Harbour

Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.

Routes

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Grade Route

Approx 10m left of The Battle of Evermore. Up blocky broken corner crack to chains at 20m. Then up wide crack to a tricky finish to chains at Lost World Wall. All natural.

FA: Terry Bernutt & Marc Bailey, 2004

Start approx 8m left of Sublimation. 1st pitch 30m – 20. Start in open book corner. Stay on left side of crack. Thru slightly overhung section trending left to chains. All natural. 2nd pitch 20m – 20. Straight up past 2 BR & cams to chains. 3rd pitch 20m – 17. Straight up past 4 BR & cams to chains.

FA: Marc Bailey, Terry Bernutt & Peter Higgs, 2005

Start as for Battle of Evermore but at 4m veer right up over bulge with BR then follow arête to chains. BR and cams.

FA: Terry Bernutt & Marc Bailey

Open book corner approx 8m left of The Antichrist. Up open book corner to roof, traverse right 3m past 2 BR then straight up wall to ring bolts. 5 BR & small to medium cams

FA: Marc Bailey & Terry Bernutt, 2005

FA: Bruce Jones & Danny Rosewood, 1997

Thin crack 3m left of the start of The Antichrist. Originally perceived by Terry Bernutt but has since been handed on to Marc Bailey. Closed project.

FA: Terry Bernutt

Up obvious corner crack to small roof at 5m, exit roof left. Straight up to roof with 2 FH then up wall to Lost Boys Hideout. Cams, 5 BR, 2 FH, DBB.

FA: Marc Bailey & Peter Higgs, 2002

Start as for Antichrist but exit small roof at 5m on the right side. Up obvious corner and crack to Lost Boys Hideout. Natural pro, belay at chains.

FA: Marc Bailey, Peter Higgs & Terry Bernutt, 2002

Start at crack 4m right of Antichrist. Up crack to ledge then left up to BR then up onto second ledge and traverse right 5m to top of boulder. Step up onto wall and up to roof then up crux to ledge. Traverse right and up over roof to wall above, aid off last BR to top out at Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. BR, cams, nuts. Watch the rope drag.

FA: Terry Bernutt, Marc Bailey & Peter Higgs, 2002

Start 7m left of Hydra - 1st pitch 18m 20. Up wall veering a little right, up crack to ledge then over bulge & thru small roof to ledge with chains – 2nd pitch 17m – 24. Up wall and thru roof (crux) continue up to Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. Can be done as single pitch. BR, cams, nuts.

FA: Terry Bernutt & Marc Bailey, 2003

Start 1m right of Astro Boy. Up wall to slabby section then climb over large boulder & thru juggy roof to chains. A few small to med cams & BRs. Marc Bailey, Bruce Jones

FA: Marc Bailey & Bruce Jones

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