Dead Mans Cave Wall

Ethic inherited from Coffs Harbour

Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.


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Arête 5m right of Astro Boy 2m left of Hydra the start of Dead Man's Cave wall. Crux is the first 3m of the climb. Varied climbing up arête, start on right side then switch to left up small slab then back right follow BRs. Belay at 35m at chains to help avoid rope drag then up wall to hanging chain belay. 12 BR, 4 or 5 cams

FA: Marc Bailey & Terry Bernutt, 2004

The obvious left hand corner crack at the start of Dead mans cave. Climb crack past 3 BR's to anchors on ledge.

FA: Marc Bailey & Terry Bernutt, 2002

FFA: 2002

The real extension to Hydra, pack your big boy pants. From anchors of hydra head up and left towards arête. Before you get there head back right via horizontal break and then straight up via bolt to DBB.

FA: Alan Ezzy, Jan 2014

Continuation of Hydra. At top of Hydra traverse left past bolts at Sky's the Limit then veer right thru weakness then back left to hanging chain belay at Sky's The Limit. A little contrived. BR & natural.

FA: Joe Truban & Marc Bailey, 2003

2m right of Hydra. Stay roughly 2 to 3 m right of corner all the way, when at cave level traverse 3m right to chains at Captain America .8 BRs & cams

FA: Terry Bernutt & Marc Bailey, 2005

Start 7m right of Hydra. Up wall past 2 BRs then up over bulge 2 BRs (stay on left side of these bolts) veering slightly left onto ledge reach up and place a good small cam before moving straight up the wall to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.

FA: Terry Bernutt, Marc Bailey & Peter Higgs, 2002

Start as for Captain America but climb on the right of the 3rd & 4th BRs. Then straight up wall past 2 BRs to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.

FA: Peter Higgs, Brice Milne & Terry Bernutt, 2003

The things you do when you are bored and it's raining and you want to climb. A metre to the left of Tinker Bell. Finish at ledge as per Tinker Bell and The Shadow. Project Marc Bailey

Start up crack 1m right of Captain America to ledge and climb up following the large flake right and back left to the ledge above reach up and clip the BR before hauling up over the roof on big jugs to DBB in Dead Man's Cave. Bring natural pro 1 BR.

FA: Peter Higgs & Terry Bernutt, 2002

As for Tinker Bell but half way up flake move left and straight up past one BR to then rejoin the top of original climb.

FA: Peter Higgs

Start as for Tinker Bell (this is left of actual climb but this way you avoid a big loose block) climb easily to ledge move right, clip bolt & then straight up to Dead Man's Cave. DBB. Natural pro & BR.

FA: Brice Milne & Marc Bailey, 2003

1 24
2 21

Two pitch extension out of Dead Mans Cave starting 3m L of Tinkerbell's DBB up the roof crack, finishing at the DBB of 'Sky's the Limit'. 1st pitch: 24 (Yet to be freed), 2nd pitch: 21

FA: Leon Gray & Toby Holmes

Start just right of AJJ. Bouldery start off the big horn to nice headwall and chains on ledge. A few cams to place after the crux will help.

Set by Peter Higgs

FA: Alan Ezzy, 2011

Finger crack 8m right of The Shadow. Up crack then veer right to another crack then up wall to chains. BRs, cams & nuts

FA: Terry Bernutt

1 19
2 25
3 22
4 24

Approx 40m to the right of Mighty Mouse. Stellar route that has it all. Is often overlooked as the bottom is a bit wet. Starts off dirty/wet ledge under obvious corner. First pitch (19): up corner (carrots and cams) then trend slightly right to just under roof (cams & carrot bolt for belay). Second pitch (25): Short and punchy. Follow carrots through roof to chains. Third pitch (22): Beautiful headwall. Head straight up on carrots and cams (up to No.4 camalot) to mixed hanging belay just below slab. Fourth pitch (24): Fight your way up slab (trending right) using tiny under clings to easier ground and the top. Belay off big tree.

Set by Josef Truban

FFA: Alan Ezzy & Leon Gray, 2011

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