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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 152.998671, -30.060044
One of the larger cliffs in the area. It faces South so stays shaded most of the day. The area called dead mans cave stays dry after rain due to the roof capping it.
Access to Never Never Land is a little tricky. Follow Sherwood forest road and at the communications tower (6.2km north of Waihoo Rd) turn left. Drive 1.4km and park at end of the road (be careful near end unless you have 4WD),
Walkin acceess: walk approx 80m back up the road to a rock cairn and a track that will head west back towards car park but in bush. follow down hill and roughly leftward until you find rock cairn and rocky drop offs. Head down these and then south (left facing out) and around the ridge and follow cliff line back east. The track will drop down a little from cliff line and eventually you will get to dead mans cave (15mins walk) which is the obvious orange wall capped by a roof
Abseil access: ...
- Ethic: inherited from Coffs Harbour
Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.
Wall about 150m before you get to Never Never when walking in , up high when the track heads down, head up instead. A bit of a pain to get up to , a little scrambling and grade 6 -7 climbing for a few metres
Joes Climb (Project)
above chain belay on ledge. This climb is more to the left on wall it is very obvious crack . Finish at ledge at chains.
Tinker Bells Big Brother
Hard to get to start as a little obscure and a short climb involved , but climb up at left end of this area and gingerly make your way to centre of wall . Traverse left and up for 6m past 1 ring bolt then up for 3m to another ring then up and right using big overlap.Finish at chains.
FFA: Marc Bailey lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012
FA: Marc Bailey lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012
Sneak it In (Project)
Start as per Tinker Bells BB but only traverse left for a few metres and then follow rings straight up. Project Marc Bailey
Start as per TBBB but at ring bolt go straight up and right to another ring then straight up to gain crack and then to chains
FFA: Marc Bailey Lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012
FA: Marc Bailey Lead Alan Ezzy 2nd, 2012
Approx 10m left of The Battle of Evermore. Up blocky broken corner crack to chains at 20m. Then up wide crack to a tricky finish to chains at Lost World Wall. All natural.
FA: Terry Bernutt , Marc Bailey, 2004
Battle of Evermore
Start approx 8m left of Sublimation. 1st pitch 30m – 20. Start in open book corner. Stay on left side of crack. Thru slightly overhung section trending left to chains. All natural. 2nd pitch 20m – 20. Straight up past 2 BR & cams to chains. 3rd pitch 20m – 17. Straight up past 4 BR & cams to chains.
FA: Marc Bailey, Terry Bernutt , Peter Higgs, 2005
Angels of Babylon
Start as for Battle of Evermore but at 4m veer right up over bulge with BR then follow arête to chains. BR and cams.
FA: Terry Bernutt, Marc Bailey
Acts Of Sublimation
Open book corner approx 8m left of The Antichrist. Up open book corner to roof, traverse right 3m past 2 BR then straight up wall to ring bolts. 5 BR & small to medium cams
FA: Marc Bailey, Terry Bernutt, 2005
‘Project' - Drop Zone
FA: Bruce Jones, Danny Rosewood, 1997
The Hulk - 'Closed Project'
Thin crack 3m left of the start of The Antichrist. Originally perceived by Terry Bernutt but has since been handed on to Marc Bailey. Closed project.
FA: Terry Bernutt
Up obvious corner crack to small roof at 5m, exit roof left. Straight up to roof with 2 FH then up wall to Lost Boys Hideout. Cams, 5 BR, 2 FH, DBB.
FA: Marc Bailey, Peter Higgs, 2002
Start as for Antichrist but exit small roof at 5m on the right side. Up obvious corner and crack to Lost Boys Hideout. Natural pro, belay at chains.
FA: Marc Bailey, Peter Higgs, Terry Bernutt, 2002
Start at crack 4m right of Antichrist. Up crack to ledge then left up to BR then up onto second ledge and traverse right 5m to top of boulder. Step up onto wall and up to roof then up crux to ledge. Traverse right and up over roof to wall above, aid off last BR to top out at Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. BR, cams, nuts. Watch the rope drag.
FA: Terry Bernutt , Marc Bailey, Peter Higgs, 2002
Start 7m left of Hydra - 1st pitch 18m 20. Up wall veering a little right, up crack to ledge then over bulge & thru small roof to ledge with chains – 2nd pitch 17m – 24. Up wall and thru roof (crux) continue up to Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. Can be done as single pitch. BR, cams, nuts.
FA: Terry Bernutt , Marc Bailey, 2003
Start 1m right of Astro Boy. Up wall to slabby section then climb over large boulder & thru juggy roof to chains. A few small to med cams & BRs. Marc Bailey, Bruce Jones
FA: Marc Bailey, Bruce Jones
Sky's The Limit
Arête 5m right of Astro Boy 2m left of Hydra the start of Dead Man's Cave wall. Crux is the first 3m of the climb. Varied climbing up arête, start on right side then switch to left up small slab then back right follow BRs. Belay at 35m at chains to help avoid rope drag then up wall to hanging chain belay. 12 BR, 4 or 5 cams
FA: Marc Bailey, Terry Bernutt, 2004
The obvious left hand corner crack at the start of Dead mans cave. Climb crack past 3 BR's to anchors on ledge.
FA: Marc Bailey, Terry Bernutt, 2002
Continuation of Hydra. At top of Hydra traverse left past bolts at Sky's the Limit then veer right thru weakness then back left to hanging chain belay at Sky's The Limit. A little contrived. BR & natural.
FA: Joe Truban, Marc Bailey, 2003
FA: Terry Bernutt , Marc Bailey, 2005
Start 7m right of Hydra. Up wall past 2 BRs then up over bulge 2 BRs (stay on left side of these bolts) veering slightly left onto ledge reach up and place a good small cam before moving straight up the wall to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.
FA: Terry Bernutt , Marc Bailey, Peter Higgs, 2002
Start as for Captain America but climb on the right of the 3rd & 4th BRs. Then straight up wall past 2 BRs to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.
FA: Peter Higgs, Brice Milne, Terry Bernutt, 2003
|7||Slip it in if it Feels Good (project)||21||125m,|
Start up crack 1m right of Captain America to ledge and climb up following the large flake right and back left to the ledge above reach up and clip the BR before hauling up over the roof on big jugs to DBB in Dead Man's Cave. Bring natural pro 1 BR.
FA: Peter Higgs, Terry Bernutt, 2002
Tinker Bell Direct
As for Tinker Bell but half way up flake move left and straight up past one BR to then rejoin the top of original climb.
FA: Peter Higgs
Angelina Jollies Jublies
Start as for Tinker Bell (this is left of actual climb but this way you avoid a big loose block) climb easily to ledge move right, clip bolt & then straight up to Dead Man's Cave. DBB. Natural pro & BR.
FA: Brice Milne, Marc Bailey, 2003
Two pitch extension out of Dead Mans Cave starting 3m L of Tinkerbell's DBB up the roof crack, finishing at the DBB of 'Sky's the Limit'. 1st pitch: 24 (Yet to be freed), 2nd pitch: 21
FA: Leon Gray, Toby Holmes
Strong Like Bull
Start just right of AJJ. Bouldery start off the big horn to nice headwall and chains on ledge. A few cams to place after the crux will help.
Set by Peter Higgs
FA: Alan Ezzy, 2011
Finger crack 8m right of The Shadow. Up crack then veer right to another crack then up wall to chains. BRs, cams & nuts
FA: Terry Bernutt
Feed The Rat
Approx 40m to the right of Mighty Mouse. Stellar route that has it all. Is often overlooked as the bottom is a bit wet. Starts off dirty/wet ledge under obvious corner. First pitch (19): up corner (carrots and cams) then trend slightly right to just under roof (cams & carrot bolt for belay). Second pitch (25): Short and punchy. Follow carrots through roof to chains. Third pitch (22): Beautiful headwall. Head straight up on carrots and cams (up to No.4 camalot) to mixed hanging belay just below slab. Fourth pitch (24): Fight your way up slab (trending right) using tiny under clings to easier ground and the top. Belay off big tree.
Set by Josef Truban
FFA: Alan Ezzy and Leon Gray, 2011
Long/Lat: 153.001604, -30.060587
Access is Rap in only at the moment. approach pitch still to be sorted. Amazing rock, great angle, awesome holds and a great position make the hassle factor of getting to the wall worth it.
To rap in, drive 1km past the communication tower and turn left onto a short track that leads to the top of the cliff. Walk down and left and rap off some trees.
|1||The Specialist (project)||25||615m,|
Robot Zombie Pigs
Punchy steep start past big move and up techy face.