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Description

On the eastern side of the river. The large cliff overlooking the Mushroom Rapid.

Access issues inherited from Nymboida Gorge

The area lies within Nymboi-Binderay National Park. Climbing is encouraged.

Approach

Scramble down a gully to the south of the buttress or paddle a boat across from The Chute camp.

Ethic inherited from Nymboida Gorge

There are bountiful possibilities for new routes. Up to this point no bolts have been placed in this area as sufficient natural protection has been available. The area is within Nymboi-Binderay National Park so it would be best to discretely check with the latest policies for bolting within National Parks.

Routes

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Grade Route

On the right hand side of Mushroom Buttress, in the gully. 1st Pitch (22m): Left up the ramp, left around roof then boldly right onto slab, love hole to ledge. 2nd Pitch (15m): Left around roof, up through downward flared chimney to ledge. 3rd Pitch (30m): Straight up left facing flake and left up blocks to top.

FFA: T. Balla, D. Baker & A. Breheny (alt leads), 1995

70m left and down from Lanky Dick and the Love Hole. Near the lowest point on the buttress. 1st pitch (15m): Wide crack to tree. 2nd pitch (30m): Follow line, mainly on face holds. 3rd pitch (15m): Stay in line to large ledge. Walk 40m left to below orange wall and roof. 4th pitch (38m): Up loose corners and grooves. 5th pitch (10m): Crux. Traverse right below orange wall and up steep chimney. 6th pitch (15m): Finish off the chimney and wander up choss to top.

FFA: T. Waters & S. Goode, 1996

30m left of Sorry, below large, detached block. 1st pitch (20m): Up past 2 ledges to detached block. Delicately up right hand side of block and onto treed ledge. 2nd pitch (30m): Crux. Follow crackline leading diagonally left to short, steep, hanging corner. Up this to big ledge belay. Wlak 80m left around arete to small tree at end of ledge. 3rd pitch (30m): Crux. Up blocks, veering right to crack then traverse left to block, over this and up to ledge below rooves. 4th pitch (15m): Up under rooves, up and left to top.

FFA: D. Baker, M. Nesbitt & C. Pulkinnen, 1996

Activity

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