Sherwood Buttress Mostly Trad climbing21 routes in crag
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A good mix of easier routes in a beautiful bushland setting. Most routes require a mix of sport and traditional gear (requiring bolt plates). The area is popular for top roping but the belays nearly all require traditional gear and are quite tricky to arrange. Bring lots of slings or extra rope to assist in setting up belay anchors.
The area is in Sherwood Nature Reserve. Climbing is fine. Check with the local climbers before considering any bolting. The area is relatively popular with hikers.
The smoothest drive is out along Coramba Rd from Coffs Harbour to Glenreagh, with the last five minutes being good unsealed road. This makes for an easy drive in any type of car. Allow an hours travelling time from Coffs Harbour. Drive west out of town along Coramba Rd. You will pass through Karangi, Coramba, and Nana Glen on the way, just as you come to Glenreagh turn right, cross the Orara river then cross the railway track, turn left and follow this along the track to the dirt. The road then leads you up and over the first ridge and down to a bridge at Middle Creek. Approx. 1.1km past the Middle Creek bridge is the parking area for Sherwood Rock. At an obvious left hand turn there is a clearing on the left with a larger tree and a sign marking ‘Sherwood Nature Reserve’, park here. To access the climbing. Walk up the hill past the sign, duck under the fence and then follow the ridge slightly uphill. After 5 minutes you will see the rock appear above you. Using the Woolgoolga map 9537-4-N, Sherwood Rock is at map reference 020 791, with the climbing around the spot height marked on the map as 203.
Ethic inherited from Coffs Harbour
Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.
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