Sherwood Buttress Mostly trad climbing

20 routes in crag

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Description

A good mix of easier routes in a beautiful bushland setting. Most routes require a mix of sport and traditional gear (requiring bolt plates). The area is popular for top roping but the belays nearly all require traditional gear and are quite tricky to arrange. Bring lots of slings or extra rope to assist in setting up belay anchors.

Access issues

The area is in Sherwood Nature Reserve. Climbing is fine. Check with the local climbers before considering any bolting. The area is relatively popular with hikers.

Approach

The smoothest drive is out along Coramba Rd from Coffs Harbour to Glenreagh, with the last five minutes being good unsealed road. This makes for an easy drive in any type of car. Allow an hours travelling time from Coffs Harbour. Drive west out of town along Coramba Rd. You will pass through Karangi, Coramba, and Nana Glen on the way, just as you come to Glenreagh turn right, cross the Orara river then cross the railway track, turn left and follow this along the track to the dirt. The road then leads you up and over the first ridge and down to a bridge at Middle Creek. Approx. 1.1km past the Middle Creek bridge is the parking area for Sherwood Rock. At an obvious left hand turn there is a clearing on the left with a larger tree and a sign marking ‘Sherwood Nature Reserve’, park here. To access the climbing. Walk up the hill past the sign, duck under the fence and then follow the ridge slightly uphill. After 5 minutes you will see the rock appear above you. Using the Woolgoolga map 9537-4-N, Sherwood Rock is at map reference 020 791, with the climbing around the spot height marked on the map as 203.

Ethic inherited from Coffs Harbour

Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
16 Tink Tink Mixed 8m, 1

Farthest left climb on cliff. 1 BR and medium wires. Natural belay

FA: Danny Rose

2
17 Irish Dorks Mixed 8m, 1

2m right of TT. 1BR, Medium wires, Natural belay.

FA: Danny Rose

3
18 * Maddened Monk Mixed 8m, 3

3 BR's and NP

FA: Bruce Jones

4

Start under obvious crack on left side of face. Up wall past 1 BR then natural gear to top out

FA: Danny Rose

5
18 Monks Alive Mixed 10m, 3

3 BR's & NP at start

FA: Bruce Jones

6
16 Love And Marriage Trad 8m

2m right of the left arete of the open book corner. Vere left above overhang. Finish left of tree. Natural Pro, tree belay.

FA: Danny Rose

7
13 Divorce Trad 8m

1m right of ‘Love and Marriage’. Up obvious chunky route to right of tree Natural pro, tree belay

8
15 Ethan's Tears Mixed 8m, 1

1m right of ‘Divorce’ upon delicate flaky holds. 1BR, crux past first bolt. Natural belay

FA: Danny Rose

9
16 Annulment Unknown 8m

Flakes and edges 2m left of "what crack"

FA: Toby Holmes

10
12 What Crack Unknown 8m

Solo or top rope the corner chimney

FA: Danny Rose

11
18 * Disbelief Mixed 8m, 1

1m right of corner. Face climb. 1BR and small wire. Bring medium cams for belay.

FA: Danny Rose, Shiloh Rose

12
23 ** Parting Gesture Mixed 8m, 2

3m right of ‘Disbelief’. Excellent technical climbing. 2BR’s and small wires near top. DBB belay 4m back.

FA: Danny Rose, Bruce Jones

13

Start as for ‘Parting Gesture’. Traverse right to arete then up pastdubious gear to DBB. Excellent top rope route

FA: Danny Rose

14
17 Enema Tree Trad 8m

2m right of ‘KBCB’. Good climbing poor protection. Better to tope rope. DBB.

FA: Danny Rose

15
18 Cheese Cutter Trad 8m

2m right of ‘Enema Tree’. Nice climbing on good but hard to find natural gear through small overhang up face to left of arete. DBB.

FA: Danny Rose

16

2m crack on west face

FA: M. Kelly

17
21 *** Birthday Suit Mixed 8m, 2

Gotta do it !! Blunt arete approx 10m to the right off ‘Cheese Cutter’. Start on ledge, very tricky start takes you past 2BR’s and small cam to tree belay.

FA: Danny Rose

18
(Project) Trad Project 12m

6m right of Birthday Suit. Up following the series of shallow, flaring seams. The feet are quite spaced apart and therefore consists of many powerful moves from very high heel hooks with minuscule gastons and sidepulls in the seams supported by an array of similarly sized sidepulls, crimps and slopers. It is very sustained and will probably be graded somewhere between 25 - 27.. At 3/4 height the climb eases into a naturally protected flake which leads to a break and a cruisy head wall. Needs 2 bolts lower down.

19
23 *** Sherrif Mixed 8m, 2

Approx 8m right of Birthday Suite. Left traverse start then up pretty concaved orange wall passing 2BR's and natural pro up top.

FA: Danny Rose

20

5m right of ‘Sherriff’. Crack climb. Tree belay

FA: Marty Scmidt

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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