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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 153.004054, -30.061296
A long but discontinuous cliffline, but some very promising rock here. The first wall at the decent has the majority of established routes here, but plenty of potential further along the cliffline.
Park as for approach to the top of Never Never (the abseil access), however head south along the cliifline. You will pas a few small boulders and cross a small creek, then walk on til a large interestingly shaped boulder appears. There is an ancient static line tied to a tree at this decent gully (DON"T TRUST IT!!!! Its a million years old at least!). Set up a rap or toprope line for access and escape after climbing. The main wall is obvious and on your left as you rap in, and most of the suitable rock for climbing is on this side. Take great care at the traverse over the void around the corner which leads to more walls further down the cliff -old rusted bolts and some old static are in place here, but treat them with suspicion!!
- Ethic: inherited from Coffs Harbour
Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.
It was about 1996 when Ben Christian, Gordon Low, and Jeff Gracie (I think it's Gracie...?) started poking around here. Saw very little attention until about 2009, when Rhys Van Gastel and Nic Wagland finished off a steep project of Low's past the death traverse, that went at 25.
The First Wall you come to next to access Gully
First route next to access point. Up pocketed face. Needs Rebolting
Start under slab, up to ledge and then up awesome orange wall to anchors under lip
Line 5m right of slab. Up orange face, through roof then up black face to anchors. Overdue for a rebolt
Sex in Space
2 metres to the right of route three. Easy past two old fixed hangers to rest under roof, then crazy jump move, only possible if you're tall, then slightly pumpy wall to top. Mix of old hangers on easier ground and new ring bolts on harder sections.
FFA: Rhys Van Gastel
FA: Rhys Van Gastel, 2010
|23||Second Line||18m||1.1. Main Wall|
|24||Third Line||18m||1.1. Main Wall|
|26||Sex in Space||615m,||1.1. Main Wall|
|?||First Line||12m||1.1. Main Wall|