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Description

First wall you come to. has some great routes and compact rock.

Approach

90 seconds from car

Ethic inherited from Waihoo

A mixed of sport and trad routes but all the routes are well equiped with lower offs and solid bolts

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
19 Yosemite Action Hero Sport 6m, 2

The first good piece of rock on the cliff line and possibly the closest sandstone route to Coffs?? Climb arête past 2 bolts. Most people think this route is harder than 19 but Artie refuses to give such a short route a harder grade. Let's call it 'stout'.

FFA: Artie Schultz, 2011

2
21 Salsa Sport 7m, 2

4m left of Yosemite Action Hero. Very punchy through rooflet.

FFA: Toby Holmes, 2012

3
21 Beached DS Sport 15m, 4

Stick clip ring and climb bouldery start to Beached

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2012

4
18 Beached Sport 12m, 4

Start as for FSA then veer right and up thin slab to anchors on ledge

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2011

5
22 Beached Az Sport 18m, 6

As for beached then Continue up steep headwall from ledge to finish with hands on top of cliff. Beware of some loose rock. Needs Anchor

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2011

6
24 Former Special Agent Sport 12m, 3

Climb arête past 3 rb and some finesse

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2011

7
Nicks Project Sport Project 13m

thin face and Arete. looks hard

8
16 Release The Hounds Trad 12m

The Obvious trad corner crack in centre of wall. Up to ledge and anchors above FSA

FFA: Brian Cork, 2011

9
19 ** Super Grover Sport 18m, 6

A juggy roof that is way easier than it looks from the ground. 3 bolt slab with pockets to ledge, take a breather and then campus into the roof on massive jugs and up through more steep terrain to a lower off below small tree.

FFA: Brian Cork, 2011

10
25 *** Synchronicity Trad 12m

Climb flake and arete to get to 5m horizontal roof. Fire our roof near finger crack to anchors over lip.

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2011

11
22 ** The Pretender Sport 15m, 5

The amazing looking, yellow, honey-comb roof 15m left of Super Grover. Up wall and then crank out the 3-4m horizontal roof on jugs and pockets to finish on holds over the lip.

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2011

12
21 Scribblenaut Sport 12m, 4

Fun face route.

FFA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2012

13
17 Conjunctivitis Trad 10m

All Trad up crack and left at top to anchor for TST

FFA: Toby Holmes, 2012

14
19 The Slippery Truth Sport 15m, 4

wall just left of offwidth

FFA: Toby Holmes, 2012