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Description

A 100m section of cliff comprising of six faces and a large variety of grades and climbing styles.

Access issues inherited from Wonderland

Wonderland is in Conglomerate State Forest. Camping, dogs and bolting are all legal.

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Approach

Starts 10 m right (facing the cliff) of the descent gully.

Ethic inherited from Wonderland

Bolting of routes is legal and there is quite a bit of potential for new lines. Most older routes top-out and adding bolt anchors at the top is deemed acceptable in the interest of preserving vegetation at the top of the cliff. Replacing bolts on routes is OK if required but adding bolts to existing routes is not. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible.

©

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

The first climb to the right of the descent gully. Just left of the big tree. Up past 2 bolts to the top.

FA: W. Gibbs, W. Anderson, G. Dean, 1993

2
18 Stranger Than Fiction Sport 6m, 2

3m right of Stranger in a Strange Land and just right of the big tree. Up past 2 bolts.

FA: W. Gibbs, W. Anderson, G. Dean, 1993

3
23 Subliminal Erotica Mixed 8m, 2

2m left of the arete. A fine little wall. 2 bolts and a cam. Tree belay.

FA: G. Dean, 1993

4
18 ** Hope and Glory Mixed 15m, 2

3 m right of the arete and around the corner from Subliminal Erotica. 2 bolts and trad gear. Tree anchor.

FA: K. Bennett, G. Dean, 1993

5
20 * Bounty's Revenge Mixed 15m, 2

2m right of Hope and Glory. Climb through bucket in wall to first bolt. 2 bolts and trad gear. Tree anchor.

FA: G. Dean, K. Bennett, 1991

6

The short, left hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

FA: K. Bennett, solo, 1991

7
4 Moist Crack Trad 6m

The short, right hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

FA: G. Dean, solo, 1991

8
19 ** Blind Faith Sport 20m, 4

Start on left side of steep orange face. Up Moist Crack then head rightish and up face past 4 bolts to tree anchor.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1991

9
18 ** Blind Fury Mixed 20m, 2

1 m right of Blind Faith. Up orange wall past 2 bolts and a small cam. Exit left under large roof.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1993

10
22 *** Mind Warp Sport 15m, 4

Around the corner from Blind Fury on a vertical orange wall, under a huge overhang. Climb the crack in the center of the wall, then traverse left, following your nose or bolts, whichever comes first. Then straight up wall past 2 more bolts to chain. Extremely pleasant climbing.

FA: G. Dean, W. Anderson, 1991

11
21 * Wet Dreams Sport 10m, 2

Same start as Mind Warp. Up the crack and then head right past two bolts and optional trad gear to chain.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1993

12
20 Warped Minds Mixed 15m, 2

A link up. Start up Wet Dreams. At the second bolt, traverse left to meet the anchors of Mind Warp.

FA: MK, 1998

13
18 Oh the Humidity Trad 10m

The major offwidth corner just right of Wet Dreams. #5 cam at the start, #4 in the middle then traverse left to chain above Wet Dreams.

14
19 Bush Christening Mixed 20m, 2

The main weakness through the imposing rooves, about 10m left of Tomorrow Boy. There are two bolts. One at the start and one under the roof.

FA: D. Rose

15
25 Tomorrow Boy Sport 10m, 4

The prominent arete with fixed hangers at the right hand end of the big orange rooves. Up the left side of the arete to a lower off at a ledge.

FA: B. Christian, 1996

16
25 On A Crimp And A Prayer Mixed 15m, 5

Same start as Tomorrow Boy. From the forth bolt step around to the right side of the arete and continue up the face past a carrot bolt and cam to a lower-off.

FA: B. Christian, 1996

17
18 Rabid Dog Trad 20m

About 10m right of Tomorrow Boy. The left hand crack, in the corner. Up crack, left into cave and then right and up to tree. Abseil from tree.

FA: A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1993

18
12 Charred Dog Trad 30m

About 10m right of Rabid Dog. A layback crack below a ledge with a large tree.

  1. Follow the corner crack to exit left on a small ledge. Up blocks to a large ledge.

  2. From the left hand end of the large ledge, head straight up to the grass and traverse right or alternatively finish straight up from the large tree. Watch out for the see-saw rock!

FA: E. Sharp, B. Birchall, 1991