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Warped Wall 17 routes in Sector

  • Avg. Height: 14m
  • Style: Trad,Sport
  • Approach time: 10 minutes
  • Ascents: 161

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Description:
Overhung Afternoon sun W

A 100m section of cliff comprising of six faces and a large variety of grades and climbing styles.

Access Issues:© inherited from Wonderland

Wonderland is in Conglomerate State Forest. Camping, dogs and bolting are all legal.

Approach:
Gentle 10-20 min

Starts 10 m right (facing the cliff) of the descent gully.

Ethic:© inherited from Wonderland

Bolting of routes is legal and there is quite a bit of potential for new lines. Most older routes top-out and adding bolt anchors at the top is deemed acceptable in the interest of preserving vegetation at the top of the cliff. Replacing bolts on routes is OK if required but adding bolts to existing routes is not. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible.

Tags:
Sandstone Rap off

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Stranger In A Strange Land

The first climb to the right of the descent gully. Just left of the big tree. Up past 2 bolts to the top.

FA: W. Gibbs, W. Anderson, G. Dean, 1993

18
Sport 6m , 2
RouteGradeStylePopularity
2 Stranger Than Fiction

3m right of Stranger in a Strange Land and just right of the big tree. Up past 2 bolts.

FA: W. Gibbs, W. Anderson, G. Dean, 1993

18
Sport 6m , 2
RouteGradeStylePopularity
3 Subliminal Erotica

2m left of the arete. A fine little wall. 2 bolts and a cam. Tree belay.

FA: G. Dean, 1993

23
Mixed 8m , 2
4 ** Hope and Glory

3 m right of the arete and around the corner from Subliminal Erotica. 2 bolts and trad gear. Tree anchor.

FA: K. Bennett, G. Dean, 1993

18
Mixed 15m , 2
RouteGradeStylePopularity
5 * Bounty's Revenge

2m right of Hope and Glory. Climb through bucket in wall to first bolt. 2 bolts and trad gear. Tree anchor.

FA: G. Dean, K. Bennett, 1991

20
Mixed 15m , 2
6 Yellow Brick Road

The short, left hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

FA: K. Bennett, solo, 1991

4
Trad 6m
7 Moist Crack

The short, right hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

FA: G. Dean, solo, 1991

4
Trad 6m
8 ** Blind Faith

Start on left side of steep orange face. Up Moist Crack then head rightish and up face past 4 bolts to tree anchor.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1991

19
Sport 20m , 4
9 ** Blind Fury

1 m right of Blind Faith. Up orange wall past 2 bolts and a small cam. Exit left under large roof.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1993

18
Mixed 20m , 2
RouteGradeStylePopularity
10 *** Mind Warp

Around the corner from Blind Fury on a vertical orange wall, under a huge overhang. Climb the crack in the center of the wall, then traverse left, following your nose or bolts, whichever comes first. Then straight up wall past 2 more bolts to chain. Extremely pleasant climbing.

FA: G. Dean, W. Anderson, 1991

22
Sport 15m , 4
11 * Wet Dreams

Same start as Mind Warp. Up the crack and then head right past two bolts and optional trad gear to chain.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1993

21
Sport 10m , 2
12 Warped Minds

A link up. Start up Wet Dreams. At the second bolt, traverse left to meet the anchors of Mind Warp.

FA: MK, 1998

20
Mixed 15m , 2
RouteGradeStylePopularity
13 Bush Christening

The main weakness through the imposing rooves, about 10m left of Tomorrow Boy. There are two bolts. One at the start and one under the roof.

FA: D. Rose,

19
Mixed 20m , 2
14 Tomorrow Boy

The prominent arete with fixed hangers at the right hand end of the big orange rooves. Up the left side of the arete to a lower off at a ledge.

FA: B. Christian, 1996

25
Sport 10m , 4
15 On A Crimp And A Prayer

Same start as Tomorrow Boy. From the forth bolt step around to the right side of the arete and continue up the face past a carrot bolt and cam to a lower-off.

FA: B. Christian, 1996

25
Mixed 15m , 5
16 Rabid Dog

About 10m right of Tomorrow Boy. The left hand crack, in the corner. Up crack, left into cave and then right and up to tree. Abseil from tree.

FA: A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1993

18
Trad 20m
17 Charred Dog

About 10m right of Rabid Dog. A layback crack below a ledge with a large tree.

  1. Follow the corner crack to exit left on a small ledge. Up blocks to a large ledge.

  2. From the left hand end of the large ledge, head straight up to the grass and traverse right or alternatively finish straight up from the large tree. Watch out for the see-saw rock!

FA: E. Sharp, B. Birchall, 1991

12
Trad 30m