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Description

Some masochist should do the first ascent of the offwidth in the middle.

Access issues inherited from Wonderland

Wonderland is in Conglomerate State Forest. Camping, dogs and bolting are all legal.

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Approach

Starts around the corner, about 40m right of the big orange overhangs on Warped Wall.

Ethic inherited from Wonderland

Bolting of routes is legal and there is quite a bit of potential for new lines. Most older routes top-out and adding bolt anchors at the top is deemed acceptable in the interest of preserving vegetation at the top of the cliff. Replacing bolts on routes is OK if required but adding bolts to existing routes is not. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 *** Stairway To Heaven Mixed 25m, 4

The black wall around the corner from Warped Wall. Sustained climbing past about 4 bolts and trad gear to a chain belay.

FA: G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, 1993

2
22 *** Hot Blooded Mixed 20m, 4

The right hand side of the black wall, about 4m left of the gully. Climb steep wall on superb rock. 4 bolts plus trad gear to a chain belay.

FA: G. Dean, K. Bennett, 1991

3
26 Polly Pussy Arms Sport 15m, 4

The overhanging, black arete left of the offwidth crack. Up past bolts to top-out.

FA: B. Christian, 1996

4
25 Glycerine Sport 15m, 3

The undercut, grey wall right right of the offwidth crack. Around the roof, up the wall and top out.

FA: G. Low, 1996

5
21 *** Well Hung Mixed 20m, 3

1m left of Canine Conflagration. Excellent climbing on good rock. Up blocks to bottom of orange wall. Up wall to roof. 3 bolts and cams (for under the roof). Double bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1992

6

Start at the 1m roof leading to a flake.

  1. Scamble up the block, move right under the roof and then up the flake to a ledge.

  2. From the right hand end of the ledge, follow the arete to the top.

FA: E. Sharp, B. Birchall, 1991