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Access issues inherited from Wonderland

Wonderland is in Conglomerate State Forest. Camping, dogs and bolting are all legal.

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Approach

About 80m right of Canine Wall. After an alcove section of chossy cliff.

Ethic inherited from Wonderland

Bolting of routes is legal and there is quite a bit of potential for new lines. Most older routes top-out and adding bolt anchors at the top is deemed acceptable in the interest of preserving vegetation at the top of the cliff. Replacing bolts on routes is OK if required but adding bolts to existing routes is not. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The left hand, low angled side of the small buttress.

FA: G. Dean (solo), 1991

2m right of Barn Storming. 3 bolts.

FA: K. Bennett (solo), 1991

Climb arete and wall past 2 bolts and trad gear to a tree belay.

FA: G. Dean & G. Gilchrist, 1993

A fine little wall to the right of the arete. A small cam and then two bolts. Tree belay.

FA: G. Dean & G. Gilchrist, 1992

2m right of 'Don't Chew the Fat'. Up the short crack and move left at top to exit.

FA: R. Curtis & E. Sharp, 1991

This climb is on a tier below the main cliff, about 30m below 'Don't Chew The Fat'. A nice, orange slab leading to a 2.5m roof. 2 bolts on the slab and then 2 bolts in the roof. 2 bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean & G. Gilchrist, 1993

Starts in the middle of the slab 5m right of "Grab The Gristle". Directly up with good gear in the breaks then punch through the overhang. Climb up then left to a tree belay.

FA: Josiah Hess & Lukas, 2016

Through the breaks to a cave.

FA: M. Kelly, 1997

About 15 m right of Bitter Fingers, just past the small ridge. Up wall past one bolt. Same finish as Exterminator.

FA: G. Dean & K. Harry, 1993

Up wall past bolts then past a slight overhang and another bolt. Trad belay.

FA: G. Bennett, G. Gilchrist & G. Dean, 1993

Up wall using small cams.

FA: G. Dean, 1992

A link-up. Climb Sealed With A Glascow Kiss for about 5m and then traverse right to finish up Basic Instinct.

FA: E. Houlton & M. Kelly, 1997

A great wall route with superb moves on great rock. 3 bolts and trad gear.

About 8m right of 'Basic Instinct'. Make one move up left into crack then follow the crack to the tree A bit loose near the top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Ed Sharp, 1991

Activity

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