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Access issues inherited from Wonderland

Wonderland is in Conglomerate State Forest. Camping, dogs and bolting are all legal.

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Approach

About 100m right of Grab the Gristle. Just after a short, steep slope on the approach trail.

Ethic inherited from Wonderland

Bolting of routes is legal and there is quite a bit of potential for new lines. Most older routes top-out and adding bolt anchors at the top is deemed acceptable in the interest of preserving vegetation at the top of the cliff. Replacing bolts on routes is OK if required but adding bolts to existing routes is not. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
19 *** Dick Dastardly Mixed 15m, 1

3m left of Bartman. climb the thin flake to the ledge then up the wall. One bolt plus small cams. Tree belay.

FA: G. Dean, K. Bennett, W. Anderson, 1992

2
17 * Bartman Trad 15m

The left of two cracks 1m apart. Small cams and then step left to chains. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain.

FA: G. Dean, Brett, 1991

3
16 * King Aurther Trad 15m

Climb the right hand crack to chain. Large cams. The second route climbed at Wonderland. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain.

FA: G. Dean, K. Bennett, 1991

4
26 Pseudomonas (Closed Project) Trad Project 15m

8m left of 'Fast Day in Paradise'. Overhanging start takes you up the intermittent and gradually shrinking crack until it becomes but a flared seem at half height. Finish up the thin face plugging cams in the breaks to tree belay. All natural baby! Closed Project - Daniel Ryan.

5
25 Fast Day In Paradise Sport 15m, 6

10m left of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. The left line of bolts that goes through the cool, pocketed rock, the small roof and up the wall. Top out or lower off the last bolt.

FA: Andreas Audetat

FFA: 1996

6
26 The Mission Sport 15m, 5

Same start as Fast Day In Paradise but branch off onto the right line of bolts. Top out.

FA: Andreas Audetat, 1996

7
21 *** Silk 'N' Steel Trad 20m

Classic. - Start at large corner with huge roof. Up corner to traverse line on left wall. Follow this out to arete, move around arete and up crack to projecting tooth of rock. Move out left onto wall and then straight up wall to top. If you can deal with the first few feet of loose(ish) rock it is well worth it for the fun 'no hands rest' on the tooth of rock and for the excellent finish up the final wall.

FA: Richard Curtis and Brian Birchall, 1991

8
23 *** Misery Mixed 25m, 3

10m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Climb the flake and then the crack. Veer left and up. 3 bolts plus trad gear.

FA: G. Dean, W. Anderson, 1992

9
18 * Dicky Knee Mixed 20m, 2

Up short wall (2 bolts) then up flared crack to a slightly overhanging finish (trad gear) to a bolt belay.

FA: A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1991

10
19 * Fat Rich Constables Mixed 16m, 3

About 20m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Shares a start with Punters and Collectors. Head left from the crack, up wall with cams and 3 bolts.

Named after the great 'Animal' (an infamous climber of the era).

FA: A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1991

11

About 20m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Climb the crack, lay-backing all the way. Large cams.

FA: A. Stephens, P. Horn (Mongrel), J. Lewis, L. Dickson, 1991

12
17 ** Dead Poets Mixed 15m, 1

Wall 2m right of Punters and Collectors. 1 bolt plus trad gear to tree anchor.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1991

13
10 Jester Trad 15m

The crack 3m right of Punters and Collectors. Climb crack to tree belay. Large cams.

FA: K. Bennett, G. Dean, 1991