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Access issues inherited from Wonderland

Wonderland is in Conglomerate State Forest. Camping, dogs and bolting are all legal.

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Approach

About 80m past Silk 'n' Steel.

Ethic inherited from Wonderland

Bolting of routes is legal and there is quite a bit of potential for new lines. Most older routes top-out and adding bolt anchors at the top is deemed acceptable in the interest of preserving vegetation at the top of the cliff. Replacing bolts on routes is OK if required but adding bolts to existing routes is not. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible.

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Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
21 ** Zarzoff Sport 10m, 3

An arete/wall 10m right of Jester. 3 bolts past pockets to a tree belay. A cam fits in the first pocket. Named in honor of the famous Zarzoff brothers: Rooti, Kikki, Likki and Shitti. If you are 4 foot 6 inches you will have no problem.

FA: A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1991

2
18 Burke's Backyard Trad 20m

The left, overhanging crack to small tree belay. Requires a full rack.

FA: G. Dean, G. Gilchrist (Gristle), 1992

3

Start 5m right of 'Zarzoff'. An obvious V corner with roof. Up corner. Exit roof on left and up crack to top.

FA: Richard Curtis, Brian Birchall, 1991

4
Open Project 1 Sport 15m, 3

3 bolts left of Shit Chick and about 10m right of Adrenaline Overdrive. Bolted by E. Houlton. Since this was a project in the 1997 guidebook I would say it could safely be assumed this is an open project by now. Either that or the first ascentionist is very tenacious. Considering Shit Chick is 28, this one might require a rope gun.

5
28 Shit Chick Sport 15m, 3

The right hand of the two bolted routes, about 12 m right of Adrenaline Overdrive. Cam and 3 bolts.

FA: E. Houlton