Whipping wall Rock climbing14 routes in sector
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Access issues inherited from Wonderland
Wonderland is in Conglomerate State Forest. Camping, dogs and bolting are all legal.©
About 200m past Overdrive wall, after a long, chossy section of cliff. You can also access this end of Wonderland by hiking 100m back along the road from the parking lot and then bush bashing down to the cliff. This way only takes about 10 minutes but there is no trail. There are descent gullys near 'Working the Dog' or about 50m past 'Confessions of a Window Cleaner'.
Ethic inherited from Wonderland
Bolting of routes is legal and there is quite a bit of potential for new lines. Most older routes top-out and adding bolt anchors at the top is deemed acceptable in the interest of preserving vegetation at the top of the cliff. Replacing bolts on routes is OK if required but adding bolts to existing routes is not. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible.©
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
The first climb at the base of the descent gully. Don't use the block to begin or your legs will automatically explode. Climb the arete past 2 bots and some small wires. Trad belay as for Whipping Boy.
FA: G. Gilchrist & G. Dean, 1993
1m right of Working the Dog. 2 bolts to trad belay.
FA: G. Dean & G. Gilchrist, 1993
The arete just right of the descent gully, about 15m left of Dino's Dilemma. A blocky wall/arete with ledges. 2 bolts plus trad gear to a trad belay. Up corner to ledge, mantle onto next ledge then power out through the small overhang on big holds.
FA: A. Stephens & G. Dean, 1992
A great little number just right of Whipping Boy. A couple of bolts and trad gear. Up easy rock to corner then head left.
FA: G. Dean & K. Harry, 1992
The first route climbed at Wonderland and reported in the first guide as 'the finest crack at the cliff'. Climb the corner crack to the tree.
FA: G. Dean & K. Bennett, 1991