Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

The southern end of Wonderland.

Access issues inherited from Wonderland

Wonderland is in Conglomerate State Forest. Camping, dogs and bolting are all legal.

©

Approach

About 200m past Overdrive wall, after a long, chossy section of cliff. You can also access this end of Wonderland by hiking 100m back along the road from the parking lot and then bush bashing down to the cliff. This way only takes about 10 minutes but there is no trail. There are descent gullys near 'Working the Dog' or about 50m past 'Confessions of a Window Cleaner'.

Ethic inherited from Wonderland

Bolting of routes is legal and there is quite a bit of potential for new lines. Most older routes top-out and adding bolt anchors at the top is deemed acceptable in the interest of preserving vegetation at the top of the cliff. Replacing bolts on routes is OK if required but adding bolts to existing routes is not. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible.

©

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
17 Working The Dog Mixed 12m, 2

The first climb at the base of the descent gully. Don't use the block to begin or your legs will automatically explode. Climb the arete past 2 bots and some small wires. Trad belay as for Whipping Boy.

FA: G. Gilchrist, G. Dean, 1993

2
15 Whip It Good Sport 12m, 2

1m right of Working the Dog. 2 bolts to trad belay.

FA: G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, 1993

3
19 ** Whipping Boy Mixed 12m, 2

The arete just right of the descent gully, about 15m left of Dino's Dilemma. A blocky wall/arete with ledges. 2 bolts plus trad gear to a trad belay. Up corner to ledge, mantle onto next ledge then power out through the small overhang on big holds.

FA: A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1992

4
14 Alice In Wonderland Mixed 20m, 2

A great little number just right of Whipping Boy. A couple of bolts and trad gear. Up easy rock to corner then head left.

FA: G. Dean, K. Harry, 1992

5
18 ** Dino's Dilemma Trad 15m

The first route climbed at Wonderland and reported in the first guide as 'the finest crack at the cliff'. Climb the corner crack to the tree.

FA: G. Dean, K. Bennett, 1991

6
24 * Indecent Proposal Sport 15m, 3

The arete 2m right of Dino's Dilemma. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean, 1993

7
23 ** Sibling Rivalry Sport 15m, 3

A classic climb on the face 5m right of Dino's Dilemma. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1993

8
20 ** Empty Pockets Sport 10m, 3

2m right of Sibling Rivalry. Climb through the roof, past some empty pockets and onward to the top.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1991

9
15 Knuckle Sandwich Trad 10m

The off-width crack 4m right of Empty Pockets. Large cams.

FA: Richard Curtis, Brian Birchall et al, 1991

10
13 Cave Bird Trad 10m

The crack 1m right of Knuckle Sandwich. Jam to cave, exit right. Small cams.

FA: Dick and Party, 1991

11
17 *** Father and Son Sport 12m, 3

3 bolts, fun climb, trad belay.

FFA: Za Utopia, Darius Utopia, 2012

FA: 2012

12
20 * Dead Heart Trad 15m

Zig-zag crack to under large boulder then exit right. Originally done with all trad gear but a bolt was added 2 years later by the first ascentionist.

FA: G. Dean, K. Bennett, 1991

13

The wall/arete 10m right and around the corner from Dead Heart. The last wall route on the cliff. Sustained climbing past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay (located on large boulder that overhangs Dead Heart).

FA: G. Dean, G. Gilchrist (Gristle), 1993

14
16 Getting Up Trad

The crack 1m right of 'Confessions of a Window Cleaner'.

FA: Richard Curtis and Brian Birchall, 1991