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Whipping wall 14 routes in Sector

  • Avg. Height: 13m
  • Style: Trad,Sport
  • Approach time: 25 minutes
  • Ascents: 65
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Description:
Overhung Afternoon sun W

The southern end of Wonderland.

Access Issues:© inherited from Wonderland

Wonderland is in Conglomerate State Forest. Camping, dogs and bolting are all legal.

Approach:
Gentle 10-20 min

About 200m past Overdrive wall, after a long, chossy section of cliff. You can also access this end of Wonderland by hiking 100m back along the road from the parking lot and then bush bashing down to the cliff. This way only takes about 10 minutes but there is no trail. There are descent gullys near 'Working the Dog' or about 50m past 'Confessions of a Window Cleaner'.

Ethic:© inherited from Wonderland

Bolting of routes is legal and there is quite a bit of potential for new lines. Most older routes top-out and adding bolt anchors at the top is deemed acceptable in the interest of preserving vegetation at the top of the cliff. Replacing bolts on routes is OK if required but adding bolts to existing routes is not. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible.

Tags:
Sandstone Rap off

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Working The Dog

The first climb at the base of the descent gully. Don't use the block to begin or your legs will automatically explode. Climb the arete past 2 bots and some small wires. Trad belay as for Whipping Boy.

FA: G. Gilchrist, G. Dean, 1993

17
Mixed 12m , 2
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RouteGradeStylePopularity
2 Whip It Good

1m right of Working the Dog. 2 bolts to trad belay.

FA: G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, 1993

15
Sport 12m , 2
3 ** Whipping Boy

The arete just right of the descent gully, about 15m left of Dino's Dilemma. A blocky wall/arete with ledges. 2 bolts plus trad gear to a trad belay. Up corner to ledge, mantle onto next ledge then power out through the small overhang on big holds.

FA: A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1992

19
Mixed 12m , 2
4 Alice In Wonderland

A great little number just right of Whipping Boy. A couple of bolts and trad gear. Up easy rock to corner then head left.

FA: G. Dean, K. Harry, 1992

14
Mixed 20m , 2
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RouteGradeStylePopularity
5 ** Dino's Dilemma

The first route climbed at Wonderland and reported in the first guide as 'the finest crack at the cliff'. Climb the corner crack to the tree.

FA: G. Dean, K. Bennett, 1991

18
Trad 15m
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RouteGradeStylePopularity
6 * Indecent Proposal

The arete 2m right of Dino's Dilemma. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean, 1993

24
Sport 15m , 3
7 ** Sibling Rivalry

A classic climb on the face 5m right of Dino's Dilemma. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1993

23
Sport 15m , 3
8 ** Empty Pockets

2m right of Sibling Rivalry. Climb through the roof, past some empty pockets and onward to the top.

FA: G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1991

20
Sport 10m , 3
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9 Knuckle Sandwich

The off-width crack 4m right of Empty Pockets. Large cams.

FA: Dick and Party, 1991

15
Trad 10m
10 Cave Bird

The crack 1m right of Knuckle Sandwich. Jam to cave, exit right. Small cams.

FA: Dick and Party, 1991

13
Trad 10m
11 *** Father and Son

3 bolts, fun climb, trad belay.

FFA: Za Utopia, Darius Utopia, 2012

FA: , 2012

17
Sport 12m , 3
12 * Dead Heart

Zig-zag crack to under large boulder then exit right. Originally done with all trad gear but a bolt was added 2 years later by the first ascentionist.

FA: G. Dean, K. Bennett, 1991

20
Trad 15m
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RouteGradeStylePopularity
13 ** Confessions Of A Window Cleaner

The wall/arete 10m right and around the corner from Dead Heart. The last wall route on the cliff. Sustained climbing past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean, G. Gilchrist (Gristle), 1993

19
Sport 10m , 3
14 Getting Up

The crack 1m right of 'Confessions of a Window Cleaner'.

FA: Richard Curtis and Brian Birchall, 1991

16
Trad
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