Routes in Wonderland

A roof boulder problem down and right from the routes. Start near the wall and traverse out the rail to the jug.

The right most of the 3 route in the cave. Start under flake and up steeply to finish on lip.

A link up. From the 2nd clip on Eat This G-Man traverse right into White Chump and up from the third bolt.

Line of bolts left of White Chump, starts with a big move.

The line of bolts left of Eat This G-Man. Steep And Powerfull

The first climb to the right of the descent gully. Just left of the big tree. Up past 2 bolts to the top.

3m right of Stranger in a Strange Land and just right of the big tree. Up past 2 bolts.

2m left of the arete. A fine little wall. 2 bolts and a cam. Tree belay.

3 m right of the arete and around the corner from Subliminal Erotica. 2 bolts and trad gear. Tree anchor.

2m right of Hope and Glory. Climb through bucket in wall to first bolt. 2 bolts and trad gear. Tree anchor.

Climb Yellow Brick Road and then left up the face to a tree belay.

The short, left hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

The short, right hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

Start on left side of steep orange face. Up Moist Crack then head rightish and up face past 4 bolts to tree anchor.

1 m right of Blind Faith. Up orange wall past 2 bolts and a small cam. Exit left under large roof.

Around the corner from Blind Fury on a vertical orange wall, under a huge overhang. Climb the crack in the center of the wall, then traverse left, following your nose or bolts, whichever comes first. Then straight up wall past 2 more bolts to chain. Extremely pleasant climbing.

Same start as Mind Warp. Up the crack and then head right past two bolts and optional trad gear to chain.

A link up. Start up Wet Dreams. At the second bolt, traverse left to meet the anchors of Mind Warp.

The major offwidth corner just right of Wet Dreams. #5 cam at the start, #4 in the middle then traverse left to chain above Wet Dreams.

The main weakness through the imposing rooves, about 10m left of Tomorrow Boy. There are two bolts. One at the start and one under the roof.

The prominent arete with fixed hangers at the right hand end of the big orange rooves. Up the left side of the arete to a lower off at a ledge.

Same start as Tomorrow Boy. From the forth bolt step around to the right side of the arete and continue up the face past a carrot bolt and cam to a lower-off.

About 10m right of Tomorrow Boy. The left hand crack, in the corner. Up crack, left into cave and then right and up to tree. Abseil from tree.

About 10m right of Rabid Dog. A layback crack below a ledge with a large tree.

1. Follow the corner crack to exit left on a small ledge. Up blocks to a large ledge.

2. From the left hand end of the large ledge, head straight up to the grass and traverse right or alternatively finish straight up from the large tree. Watch out for the see-saw rock!

The black wall around the corner from Warped Wall. Sustained climbing past about 4 bolts and trad gear to a chain belay.

The right hand side of the black wall, about 4m left of the gully. Climb steep wall on superb rock. 4 bolts plus trad gear to a chain belay.

The overhanging, black arete left of the offwidth crack. Up past bolts to top-out.

Some masochist should climb this 'quite nice' looking off-width crack.

The undercut, grey wall right right of the offwidth crack. Around the roof, up the wall and top out.

1m left of Canine Conflagration. Excellent climbing on good rock. Up blocks to bottom of orange wall. Up wall to roof. 3 bolts and cams (for under the roof). Double bolt belay.

Start at the 1m roof leading to a flake.

1. Scamble up the block, move right under the roof and then up the flake to a ledge.

2. From the right hand end of the ledge, follow the arete to the top.

The left hand, low angled side of the small buttress.

2m right of Barn Storming. 3 bolts.

Climb arete and wall past 2 bolts and trad gear to a tree belay.

A fine little wall to the right of the arete. A small cam and then two bolts. Tree belay.

2m right of 'Don't Chew the Fat'. Up the short crack and move left at top to exit.

This climb is on a tier below the main cliff, about 30m below 'Don't Chew The Fat'. A nice, orange slab leading to a 2.5m roof. 2 bolts on the slab and then 2 bolts in the roof. 2 bolt belay.

Starts in the middle of the slab 5m right of "Grab The Gristle". Directly up with good gear in the breaks then punch through the overhang. Climb up then left to a tree belay.

Through the breaks to a cave.

About 15 m right of Bitter Fingers, just past the small ridge. Up wall past one bolt. Same finish as Exterminator.

Up wall past bolts then past a slight overhang and another bolt. Trad belay.

Up wall using small cams.

A link-up. Climb Sealed With A Glascow Kiss for about 5m and then traverse right to finish up Basic Instinct.

A great wall route with superb moves on great rock. 3 bolts and trad gear.

About 8m right of 'Basic Instinct'. Make one move up left into crack then follow the crack to the tree A bit loose near the top.

3m left of Bartman. climb the thin flake to the ledge then up the wall. One bolt plus small cams. Tree belay.

The left of two cracks 1m apart. Small cams and then step left to chains. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain.

Climb the right hand crack to chain. Large cams. The second route climbed at Wonderland. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain.

8m left of 'Fast Day in Paradise', starting below the fragmented crack. Varietal, unique and quality climbing. Hard boulder problem to get established in the crack, following this all the way up until it fades into a flared, shallow seam at half height and then straight up thin wall through breaks, with a cruisy finish up the final headwall to top out and tree belay. Generous and solid gear placements grace the entirety of the route.

10m left of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. The left line of bolts that goes through the cool, pocketed rock, the small roof and up the wall. Top out or lower off the last bolt.

Same start as Fast Day In Paradise but branch off onto the right line of bolts. Top out.

Classic. - Start at large corner with huge roof. Up corner to traverse line on left wall. Follow this out to arete, move around arete and up crack to projecting tooth of rock. Move out left onto wall and then straight up wall to top. If you can deal with the first few feet of loose(ish) rock it is well worth it for the fun 'no hands rest' on the tooth of rock and for the excellent finish up the final wall.

10m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Climb the flake and then the crack. Veer left and up. 3 bolts plus trad gear.

Up short wall (2 bolts) then up flared crack to a slightly overhanging finish (trad gear) to a bolt belay.

About 20m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Shares a start with Punters and Collectors. Head left from the crack, up wall with cams and 3 bolts.

Named after the great 'Animal' (an infamous climber of the era).

About 20m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Climb the crack, lay-backing all the way. Large cams.

Wall 2m right of Punters and Collectors. 1 bolt plus trad gear to tree anchor.

The crack 3m right of Punters and Collectors. Climb crack to tree belay. Large cams.

An arete/wall 10m right of Jester. 3 bolts past pockets to a tree belay. A cam fits in the first pocket. Named in honor of the famous Zarzoff brothers: Rooti, Kikki, Likki and Shitti. If you are 4 foot 6 inches you will have no problem.

The left, overhanging crack to small tree belay. Requires a full rack.

Start 5m right of 'Zarzoff'. An obvious V corner with roof. Up corner. Exit roof on left and up crack to top.

3 bolts left of Shit Chick and about 10m right of Adrenaline Overdrive. Bolted by E. Houlton. Since this was a project in the 1997 guidebook I would say it could safely be assumed this is an open project by now. Either that or the first ascentionist is very tenacious. Considering Shit Chick is 28, this one might require a rope gun.

The right hand of the two bolted routes, about 12 m right of Adrenaline Overdrive. Cam and 3 bolts.

The first climb at the base of the descent gully. Don't use the block to begin or your legs will automatically explode. Climb the arete past 2 bots and some small wires. Trad belay as for Whipping Boy.

1m right of Working the Dog. 2 bolts to trad belay.

The arete just right of the descent gully, about 15m left of Dino's Dilemma. A blocky wall/arete with ledges. 2 bolts plus trad gear to a trad belay. Up corner to ledge, mantle onto next ledge then power out through the small overhang on big holds.

A great little number just right of Whipping Boy. Up onto ledge then easy rock to corner then head left past a bolt to the ledge above Whipping Boy. Trad belay.

The first route climbed at Wonderland and reported in the first guide as 'the finest crack at the cliff'. Climb the corner crack to the tree.

The arete 2m right of Dino's Dilemma. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

A classic climb on the face 5m right of Dino's Dilemma. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

2m right of Sibling Rivalry. Climb through the roof, past some empty pockets and onward to the top.

The off-width crack 4m right of Empty Pockets. Large cams.

The crack 1m right of Knuckle Sandwich. Jam to cave, exit right. Small cams.

2 pockets and a hueco to a slabby face. 3 bolts, fun climb, trad belay. Was originally bolted and climbed but not documented in the 1990s.

Zig-zag crack to under large boulder then exit right. Originally done with all trad gear but a bolt was added 2 years later by the first ascentionist.

The wall/arete 10m right and around the corner from Dead Heart. The last wall route on the cliff. Sustained climbing past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay (located on large boulder that overhangs Dead Heart).

The crack 1m right of 'Confessions of a Window Cleaner'.

The first crack on the left side of the tier. U crack through the dirt to the top. A great climb if you are sick in the head.

The crack 2m left of Blue Sky Mining.

2m right of Twister. Up a pumpy, overhanging wall past a bolt and some silver stick (?), through a roof, past some cams to two new arms!!!

There are at least two carrot bolts leading out the amazing looking holds in the roof. The route is not documented but was presumably bolted at the same time as the other routes. Someone should climb it. Looks like mid 20s,

8m right of Blue Sky Mining. Up onto ledge then up crack past a bolt to top.