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Description

This area has a some hidden gems. While some climbs have crappy rock, the rock is generally excellent white granite. The area has seen very little development on the boulders. Please fill in all the gaps and projects!

The bouldering is split into two locations. 1) The mainland boulders (i.e. Joy slab, Last Chance boulder, and Sniff My Fingers Boulder), and 2) the point boulders (i.e. Dinosaur Boulder, and Oystercatcher Boulder).

The boulders on the point may be hard to reach if the swell or tide are high.

Access issues inherited from Coastal Cliffs

A 4WD is highly recommended to access these cliffs. Smaller cars may be able to reach the campsite at whitewater wall, however they will probably bottom out on approach.

Approach

To access this area, park at the first gravel spot on the right, 200m past the steep section of the road. From the parking spot, walk 80 metres north and, just past a drain, and head then right on an old 4WD track.

You'll most likely start bushbashing, but it is pretty easy to find (it's the point). Once at the cliffs, you can decent on the northern side of the cliffs.

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Routes

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Grade Route

On the boulder above and behind 'Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy'. Climb the featured face.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

Climb the slab.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

Climb the face to arete.

Easy face.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010

Climb the right side of the arete from a SDS.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

Easy slab.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

From the jug, mantle up.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

Starting on the jug, traverse right on slopers.

Climb the big... ah... you-know-what.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

Mantle

From a sit start, traverse the arete from left to right.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010

Start on the flake at face-level and go up. Sit down start would be harder.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010

Climb the cracks from a sit

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010

Sit start arete

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

On the inland side of the boulder, this is the decent route. Stand start.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010

Just right of 'The Decent of the Dinsosaurs', climb the slab.

FA: X Zheng, 2016

Sit start with jugs, heading up through the double undercling and a reach finish.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

Climb the arete using wide pinches

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

Climb the face just right of the arete on good holds.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

Rightside of face on large moves between great holds.

FA: Laura Bussolini, 2016

Climb the arete starting with RH slope and LH crimp

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

Climb slightly right of the middle on small slopes

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

Climb the right side of the face on great holds.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

Crack

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

Climb the face. The shorter you are, the harder it is.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

Climb the face with the diagonal crack. Pretty good!

FA: Laura Bussolini, 2016

Corner crack

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

Climb the crack using either both or the right crack. Either way is about the same difficulty.

FA: Mike Hitchcock & X Zheng, 2016

Slabby face

Dogleg crack

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016

Easy corner with bad landing

Activity

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