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Description

This cute collection of short walls rests to the south of 'Tetragrammaton Buttress'. They offer both laid-back days and productive days, and both - if the sea co-operates, that is.

© (deano)

Access issues inherited from Coastal Cliffs

A 4WD is highly recommended to access these cliffs. Smaller cars may be able to reach the campsite at whitewater wall, however they will probably bottom out on approach. If taking a smaller car, you are best to approach on the more westerly track.

Approach

The northern tip of the crag is visible from Little Bluestone Bay. Look for the square cut blocks sitting on the large, brown ledge sloping right into the water.

In very rough weather, conditions will be quite unpleasant. The view from Little Bluestone Bay gives a good indication of what to expect. In very low seas and calm weather, access is very easy and climbing is possible on the blue and red faces.

'Access' to the base is best made by scrambling/walking down at the far southern end. Be careful of the loose soil/dirt/rocks as you make your way from the hillside down to the water. If the sea is very low then access is simple (grade 1), but if the sea is up a little bit then you will need to climb a short (5m) corner (grade 3/4) inbetween the "orange" and "yellow" faces.

Abseiling in from above the centre faces is also a worthwhile option for less confident parties.

© (deano)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Up shallow corner to undercling spike. Follow tricky cracks above.

Start: Left of two corners on the face.

A tricky finger start to the small ledge. Up the crack system above.

Start: The larger of the two corners on the face (the one on the right).

Take the easiest line of jugs up the wall. Poor pro.

Frictional.

Start: Corner between right end of green face and left end of black face.

A cool series of juggy flakes leads to a bouldery crux, followed by a flustering mantle. 4UB + DBB.

Start: First line left of Roxanne's Corner.

FA: mutton chops

This stinky corner is home to lots of live bugs, dead bugs. dead seagulls, live grandma's handbags, dead grandma's handbags and God knows what else. Climb it if you feel like punishing yourself.

Start: The obvious corner where the Red Face meets the overhanging Blue Face.

FA: Roxanne Wells, 2000

FA: S.Young, 2006

Straight up the steep cracks, to more a more relaxed angle face with jugs and jams.

Start: At the base of the twin cracks around the corner to the right from a + b.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Activity

Check out what is happening in Rubik's Cube.