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Description

This cute collection of short walls rests to the south of 'Tetragrammaton Buttress'. They offer both laid-back days and productive days, and both - if the sea co-operates, that is.

© (deano)

Approach

The northern tip of the crag is visible from Little Bluestone Bay. Look for the square cut blocks sitting on the large, brown ledge sloping right into the water.

In very rough weather, conditions will be quite unpleasant. The view from Little Bluestone Bay gives a good indication of what to expect. In very low seas and calm weather, access is very easy and climbing is possible on the blue and red faces.

'Access' to the base is best made by scrambling/walking down at the far southern end. Be careful of the loose soil/dirt/rocks as you make your way from the hillside down to the water. If the sea is very low then access is simple (grade 1), but if the sea is up a little bit then you will need to climb a short (5m) corner (grade 3/4) inbetween the "orange" and "yellow" faces.

Abseiling in from above the centre faces is also a worthwhile option for less confident parties.

© (deano)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
2
15 Interval Trad 15m
3
20 The Horror Trad 8m
4
24 * Blinking Idiot Sport 8m
5
24 Snakes, Ladders Trad 8m
6
19 * Bill's Climb Trad 8m

Up shallow corner to undercling spike. Follow tricky cracks above.

Start: Left of two corners on the face.

7
15 a + b Trad 8m

A tricky finger start to the small ledge. Up the crack system above.

Start: The larger of the two corners on the face (the one on the right).

8
12 Easy Solo Trad 8m

Take the easiest line of jugs up the wall. Poor pro.

9
20 * Digit Trad 7m
10
21 ** Spirit Of Place Trad 6m
11
21 * Soft Grit Trad 6m
12
16 Tangent Trad 6m
13
21 Fractional Trad 12m

Frictional.

Start: Corner between right end of green face and left end of black face.

14
10 Pink Solo Trad 6m
15
15 Denominator Trad 6m
16
17 Rhomboid Trad 10m
17
22 Dynamo Hum Trad 10m
18
22 Left Crack Trad 10m
19
17 Geometry Trad 10m
20
17 Hypothetical Trad 10m
21

A cool series of juggy flakes leads to a bouldery crux, followed by a flustering mantle. 4UB + DBB.

Start: First line left of Roxanne's Corner.

FA: mutton chops

22
8 Roxanne's Corner Trad 12m

This stinky corner is home to lots of live bugs, dead bugs. dead seagulls, live grandma's handbags, dead grandma's handbags and God knows what else. Climb it if you feel like punishing yourself.

Start: The obvious corner where the Red Face meets the overhanging Blue Face.

FA: Roxanne Wells, 2000

23
15 D Squared + r Trad 12m
24
14 Logarithm Trad 12m
25
18 Untitled Route Trad 10m

Straight up the steep cracks, to more a more relaxed angle face with jugs and jams.

Start: At the base of the twin cracks around the corner to the right from a + b.

FA: Unknown, 2000