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Description

A fantastic off vertical wall offering great climbing in the low to moderate grades

Access issues inherited from Coastal Cliffs

A 4WD is highly recommended to access these cliffs. Smaller cars may be able to reach the campsite at whitewater wall, however they will probably bottom out on approach. Track conditions are subject to change, particularly after heavy rains.

Approach

Follow the track that goes diagonally left just out of the campsite towards the cliff. After a short ways it turns right down an obvious gully. Scramble down here and right (facing the ocean) along the flat granite slabs until you are confronted by a wall. This wall should have a notch in the right hand corner which you scramble up to and through. Climb down the otherside and wander over to the wall.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts up the large offwidth corner crack. The second pitch takes the crack up the right hand side of the large roof at the wall's extreme left. Belay on ledge above the level of the roof. Follow the vertical crack into the corner and up.

hard - 20?

FA: Kim Carrigan & Ian Lewis, 1975

Start as for No Turn Left Unstoned, past bolt. At Rock scab trend left and up run out slab to ledge and deep groove on left side of redish coloured block. Move left around groove and onto layback flake, up to small stance. Straight up over slab bulge and onto ledge and tree belay.

FFA: josh mackenzie & stephanie hart, 2016

Start: Towards the left end of the main wall, below a bolt about halfway up.

Start: The 'line' right of 'No Turn Unstoned'

Set by B. Kennedy, R. Muehlin, I. Lewis, D. Bowman & L. Closs, 1977

Nice climbing following an impressive and distinctive feature.

Start: At the base of the obvious aplite dyke sweeping the cliff.

Starts up the crack 1m to the right of the vertical Apline vein. Starts as great climbing, the top becomes less fun once it hits a dirt ledge with a tree on it. After this it's face climbing. A big cam (4-5?) for the top section works.

FA: Ian Lewis & Lyle Closs, 1974

Set by Lyle Closs & Ian Lewis, 1974

Straight up the guts of the chimney and jam directly through the little roof.

Start in short crack 2m R of The Chimney. Continue up face staying L of Unnamed.

FA:

Up the wall as you please, trending ever so slightly to the left until you merge with 'Apline'.

Start: At the far right of the wall (but still at the base).

FA: Unknown, 2000

Activity

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