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Light Fingered Maddison Buttress

Description

An impressive wall right above the crashing waves offering some classic crack climbing.

Access issues inherited from Coastal Cliffs

A 4WD is highly recommended to access these cliffs. Smaller cars may be able to reach the campsite at whitewater wall, however they will probably bottom out on approach. Track conditions are subject to change, particularly after heavy rains.

Approach

Best accessed by walking easily around about 50m north (climbers right) from Whitewater Wall. Alternatively, it's the wall directly below the flat area just before you scramble up and through the notch to access Whitewater Wall and here there is plenty of opportunity to build a bomber trad anchor and rap straight in.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Exactly what it looks and sounds like!

Straight up the rad hand crack before a desperately cruxy right hand traverse via the obvious juggy undercling to finish up Light Fingered Maddison

FA: Simon Parsons, 2000

Continue up the immaculate and crazy flared finger crack above and slightly left of Animal Instinct's hand crack. Radness

A classic route at the grade. Start up the diagonal cracks just left of the water and climb up through a sentry box feature to the thin cracks above

FA: Neale Smith, Nic Deka, Frank Moon & Bob McMahon

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