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Description

This is a remote cliff in a great spot with beautiful lines. Access is by the Sea Level Traverse, or alternatively most people now approach from the Star Factory. Walk along the base of the Star Factory to the last routes and below the Mens Gallery. From the belay bolts used to get up to the Mens Gallery rap down to the slabs below and then make an easy scramble up and around the corner to The Gonk.

Routes

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1

The ultimate deep water solo? Climb the stunning flake on the west face of the huge boulder, at the southern end of the slabs below the Gonk.

FFA: Nick Hancock, 2003

2
15 Sporting Nightmare Unknown 70m

Provides an easy, but poorly protected, climb to the top of The Gonk. Scramble up L of the long blank wall L of Dumpster, to belay below a short chimney.

  1. Climb the chimney behind the block and continue up the slab above to the scrub. Go slightly R through this to an easy crack leading to a tree belay on the saddle.

  2. Follow the crack above, then slabs up R to a DBB. Abseil off via On the Highway to Hell, double ropes required.

FFA: Nick Hancock and Jake Bresenhan, 2003

3
20 Dumpster Unknown 45m

Follow 'Sealevel Traverse' until Flowstone Wall is first seen. This route is the short overhung corner.

  1. 20m. Up corner to a large ledge.

  2. 25m. Follow the flakes to other ledge. Abseil off.

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Mike Law, Greg Child, 1978

4

Pan-dimensional hyperclassic line and location. Not bad climbing either. The arête right of Dumpster.

  1. 18m 20. Climb the arête to the foot of the corner.

  2. 25m 24. Climb the incipient corner crack on small wires using bridging, layback, steep slab and even crack climbing. When the top of the corner can be reached, step L onto the face to clip the bolt, then tend L to the ledge. A bolt lower down protects the possibility of a hazardous fall over the arête.

FFA: P1, L. Bottomley, G Cooper, T Chappell '91. P2, M and H Jackson '94.

5
25 *** On The Highway to Hell Unknown 80m

The direct finish to Where in the Stain is Snedn, up the amazing soaring arête.

  1. 20m 20 - As for Where in the Stain is Snedn.

  2. 30m 25 - Climb the incipient corner crack of the original, but instead of traversing off L at the second bolt, continue straight on up the flying arête via 5 more bolts, to a bolt belay where the angle eases.

  3. 30m 22 - Step L and climb the barrelling slab via 4 bolts to an easy runnel leading to a bolt belay at the clifftop. Double ropes are essential to rappel the climb.

FFA: Nick Hancock, Keiran Lawton, 2002

6
24 *** The Meaning of Life Sport 25m, 8

The awesome flake route right of Where in the Stain is Sneden (fully equipped, with DBB).

FFA: Doug McConnell, 2003

7
26 *** The Holy Grail Sport 40m, 9

Spectacular, steep and sustained. One of the finest routes of this grade and style in Tasmania. (fully equipped). Start 25m right of The Meaning and climb the left trending dyke to DBB above pitch 2 of Highway to Hell.

FFA: Nick Hancock, 2003

8

Start as for Holly Grail and climb the thin crack to ledge and BB below big unclimbed corner.

FFA: Doug McConnell and Nick Hancock, 2003