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Summary

Immaculate water polished orange granite, generally slightly overhanging, 30m high and 500m long wall, mostly sport routes and some trad.

Description

(This guide is sourced from thesarvo.com, we thank Jake Bresenhan and Nick Hancock for Compiling it!)

The Star Factory is unique in Australian climbing in that it has a large number of very high quality climbs from 21 to 32 on good granite that is highly featured with holds of all shapes and sizes, in addition to the more usual cracks. The Star Factory is now the best (hard) sport crag in Tassie and arguably one of the best in Australia. All the bolted sport climbs have double bolt belays at the top, from which it is advised to lower off as there is loose gravel above the top of the cliff. Winter days are the best, climbing in the sun with a nice southerly wind. You can climb in the summer but is best after about 2pm. The projects are all closed, but feel free to put in the blood, sweat and tears to put your own up. Be careful on the slabs at the base of the routes. If you stuff up, you probably won't wake up again. In the wet they are even worse!

Approach

Access is by following The Skyline Traverse from Sleepy Bay for 35 minutes until a distinct col is reached below the slabs leading up to Wombat Crags. From here head left and down, below a steep wall, then head south to above the cliff. There is a steep scramble at the far right hand side and abseil anchors above some of the right hand climbs. Access along the foot of the crag is straightforward except for a 30 meter section left from Ferret on a Leash, where it is necessary to rope up as the slabs below the wall shelve steeply to the sea over 70 meters below.

History

The cliff now known as the Star Factory was first climbed on by the Jackson Brothers in 1994, when they wandered up a modest corner towards the left end of the wall. They returned in early 2002 to finish off their previous climb to create The Adjuster (21), and added another, Glass Tier (22). These were the only routes on the cliff until Nick Hancock re-discovered it in early 2003. He tried to keep it a secret and even managed to pick off a few of the best lines with Doug McConnell until the motor-mouth Jake Bresnehan got hold of the rumour and passed it on to Garry Phillips, who then marched up there and tore the place apart. Garry has put up about half the routes to date and is responsible for most of the hardest routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

Routes are listed R to L as you come to them via the access trail.

1
20 Access Route Sport

Climbs to the ledge where Chris the Porn King starts.

FFA: Al Williams, 2004

2
24 * Chris the Porn King Sport 15m, 6

Climb the Access route till the ledge. Double bolt belay. Climb the top pitch up via some cool moves on not the best quality rock. Not a bad little route. Harder if you are short.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2003

3
23 Naturally Blond Trad 15m

Follow the crack L of Chris The Porn King to the roof. Head R to pass the roof and follow the thin layback to the double bolt belay.

FFA: Al Williams, 2004

4

The obvious corner R of The Reason. In fact this striking line, when viewed from a kayak below, was the inspiration for the development of the Star Factory, perhaps the true reason. From a distance it looked like a grade 21 corner! Climb easy crack for 8m to good natural belay at base of corner. Layback and stem the steep thin corner to ledge then onto DBB. Better than it looks from the ground, as the crack is perfect water polished granite, rather than the crystals it appears to be. Gear from 00-0.75 BD + a few bigger pieces for the belay.

FFA: Alex Lewis, 2010

5
26 *** The Reason Sport 20m, 6

Climb a grade 15 crack for 8 meters to gain the big ledge. A wicked striking corner. Classic. Maybe the best 26 at the factory.

FFA: Doug McConnell, 2003

6
21 * Project - Ben Ikin Sport 12m, 6

Start up the initial corner of The Reason, step right on ledge, then steep and pumpy shallow corner to a rooflet then series of tricky side pulls to an anchor at half height. The extension above is a project.

FFA: Ben Ikin, 2013

7
25 Pot Bellied Whale Sport 25m, 10

Layback the pillar. Up the arête. Not that good.

FFA: Nick Hancock, 2003

8
28 * Soft Option Sport 20m, 8

Same start as Street Fighter. Head R at the top of the chimney.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2004

9
28 ** Street Fighter Sport 20m, 7

Grovel up the chimney until you can get out onto the L face. Power out on the underclings and then up. A bit of a power endurance classic.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2003

10
32 * Street Fighter 3 Sport 20m, 9

Direct Start into Street Fighter. V10 if your 6 and a half feet tall. Harder if shorter.

FFA: Steve Townsend, 2014

11
29 * Street Fighter 2 Sport 20m, 10

Climb the first 3 bolts of Antimatter then break R and up to join Street Fighter. A bit sharp, and just adds a little bit. Probably grade 26 to join Street Fighter.

FFA: Jake Bresenhan, 2004

12
23 *** Antimatter Sport 25m, 9

A classic of the grade. Climb up flakes/jugs till about two meters from the roof. A tricky section leads into the roof. Then suck up some air and crank around on big side pulls and glassy feet. Super warm up. For those whom it's not a warm up it could be 24.

FFA: Doug McConnell, 2003

13
25 * Matter of Fact Sport 28m, 9

For when you get bored of Antimatter. At the roof of Antimatter head L past 1 bolt via some moves.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2007

14
27 *** Decafe Sport 28m, 11

Climb Power Of The Percolator until you reach the roof with a fixed hanger at about half hight. Climb R and finish up Antimatter. Really fun, worth doing. You will be sucking up for air if you are unfit.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2006

15
28 *** Power of the Percolator Sport 28m, 12

This could be the best 28 in Tassie. A must do!

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2003

16
29 * Grand Slam Sport 25m, 9

Start as for Power of the Percolator but head L. Lowers off the 2nd last bolt and needs to be extended.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2003

17
22 Juicebox Mixed 20m, 2

The obvious corner to the Right of Kim's Project. Up past two bolts into the corner. Up this to the lower-off for Kim's Project. Gear from tips to #1 Camalot.

FFA: Simon Young, 2009

18
Project - Kim Sport Project

Up the slab. Looks classic. All Kim has to do is get out of his office and climb it. Hopefully the bolts are ok!

19
24 *** Promised Land Sport 20m

Climb Balance of Evil and break R across to join Kim's project. A bit cheeky but a good route.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2006

20
25 ** Balance of Evil Sport 25m, 10

A bit tricky down low. Up the R facing corner to the top.

FFA: Norm Selby, 2003

21

10 meters R of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack to a rest, then up the hanging groove. Wires and friends up to #3.

FFA: Nick Hancock, 2004

22
22 ** The Glass Tier Trad 25m

Follow a series of left trending flakes just past a ridiculously thin crack-line. Most of the rock on this climb looks dubious from the ground, but in fact it is pristine quality except for the first move. The upper section is reasonably sustained.

FFA: Hamish & Marcel Jackson, 2002

23
Project - Garry 3 Sport Project

Closed

24

Closed

25
32 *** Wizard Of Oz Sport 27m

Climb up the start of the arch. Break left to gain small corner system. Crazy shouldery stemming to reach the jug out L. Traverse R on edges to a good rest then to the belay past some funky moves. One hell of a good route.

FFA: Jake Bresnehan, 2006

26
27 *** Ferret On A Leash Sport 25m, 11

Classic intro to the harder climbs at the Star Factory. Up a nice looking corner to a big ledge. Then up thin groove. The moves are insecure and the feet are slick and mean.

FFA: Nick Hancock, 2003

27
Project Sport Project

Line left of Ferret on a Leash

28
32 ** The Tooth Fairy Sport 25m, 10

Named after the route stole the Kim’s front teeth while he was bolting it. Start at the end of the fixed walking rope. Climb up past 3 tricky boulder problems. A good one.

FFA: Kim Robinson, 2004

29
31 *** Fairy Floss Sport 25m

Climb the Tooth Fairy until the big hanging flake at half hight and then break out L past a bit of a kung fu pinch move. Powerful crux section.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2006

30

One sick project, closed.

31
29 *** Entree Sport 25m

Head up easy ground to half height. Head R and up past a rad punch to the biggest under cling in Tassie. Squirm up the groove to reach the belay. Super classic.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2004

32
30 ** Come Get Me Sport 25m

Same start as Entrée but go direct. When the route steepens, the hard climbing begins! (skip dogging bolts on redpoint). To some jugs. Then go and get it. A very nice and sharp hold. Head out L to reach the chains. Come Get Me!

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2005

33
27 *** The Supposed Golden Path Sport 25m, 8

The far LH side of the wall. 8 bolts up a nice yellow arête, with a tricky finish.

FFA: Nick Hancock, 2003

34
27 *** Star Wars Sport 25m, 5

This is a little goodie. Up the fixed rope to the base. Climb the amazing face above with some dynamic moves downwards and left towards the top. Could go direct at the last bolt, but so far every one has gone L on the bigger holds. The best 27 the Factory has to offer.

FFA: Doug McConnell

35
19 Fusion Sport 14m, 4

The sharp arête right of Maxwell's Demon. Start bridging on slab and wall, then up slighty right of arête. Crimpy.

FFA: Will Bartlett & Sam Peyr, 2010

36
28 *** Maxwell's Demon Sport 20m, 7

Up, traverse R via mono(!), up. Stand on top to finish. Preclip the 2nd bolt if you like your ankles as they are.

FFA: Doug McConnell, 2010

37
30 *** Astro Boy Sport 20m, 8

Water polished granite. Climb Me. This gem of a climb is a must for people who like climbing good routes. A hard boulder to get to the 4th draw will keep the masses away, and the mantel at the top will keep the boulderers crying. Good conditions help.

FFA: Al Williams, 2005

38
29 *** Back Yard Surgery Sport 20m

The line 4m L of Astro Boy. V6 start, then awesome climbing.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2008

39
28 *** Simply The Best Sport 20m

The name says it all! Just enjoy - if you can get in the groove of the style. A little cruxy at one point, but once the flared hand jam is reached the fun heats up.

FFA: Garry Phillips

40
Project - Garry 2 Sport Project

U's heading up and right from Simply the Best overlap. Closed.

41
Project - Madness Sport Project

Garry's project heading up and left from Simply the Best overlap. Closed.

42
Project - Redline Sport Project

Closed

43
21 ** The Adjuster Trad 36m

The well-defined R facing corner system toward the lower end of the tier. Perfect rock. Perfect position. 1. 18m 13. Climb the corner to the ledge under the roof. 2.18m 21. Up to the roof then follow an airy traverse R until the roof fades into a faint depression. Tricky moves to the top.

FFA: P1, M, H Jackson '94. P2, M, H Jackson, T Brown & '02

44
25 *** Turbo Hammer Sport 20m, 6

Named after the one and only. Looks easy but! Climb up the radtastic left leaning flared crack, on some smears and a few more smears. Very good.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2003

45

Faceted blocky arête to same belay as Seal Launch.

FFA: Al Williams, 2003

46
22 ** Seal Launch Sport 20m, 7

Climb a dogleg groove just R of a distinct arête formation.

FFA: Al Williams, 2003

47

The arête and RH Face left of seal launch, delicate technical climbing mostly on the face past 3 FH lead to jugs past another FH to a DBB.

FFA: Al Williams, 2005

48
24 * Cheese Supreme Sport 12m, 5

Start just L of Technicality. Reachy moves in the thin seam to get off the ground lead to some big moves off big holds on immaculate rock. 5 bolts + lower-off. (This route goes straight up thin seam around the corner from Technicality, lower-off is off a small ledge at about the same height as Technicality).

The following routes are on the flat slightly slabby face characterised by large (often loose) crystals, the rock quallity is not perfect but the unique large crystals make for interesting climbing.

49
22 The Great Gonzo Sport 21m, 10

Next route R of Holy Ghost. Up steep wall on good holds with tricky moves gaining slab. Up on big crystals to the top. 10 bolts + lower-off.

FFA: Doug McConnell

50
24 * The Holy Ghost Sport 25m

The RH line of bolts with a reachy crux high up.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2003

51
21 * The Son Sport 22m, 8

The central line of bolts with a tricky slab finish.

FFA: Doug McConnell, 2003

52
22 * The Father Sport 25m, 8

Follow the LH line of bolts on the highly featured wall at the far LH end of the cliff.

FFA: Nick Hancock, 2003

The Men's Gallery

The Men's Gallery is a little separate from the main Star Factory crag. To get to the Men's Gallery walk down the ramp at the far Lside of the Star Factory to a rap station. From here climb the short wall above via 4 bolts (grade 12) to the belay on the ledge (directly below Doug's Power Climb). To descend rap off the rings, but try to avoid letting the ropes fall down the crack below!

53
26 *** Red Hill Town Sport 9

The furthest line R on this bit of the wall. Power up steep wall (crux) to good rest. Continue easily, with tricky move at half height. 9 U-bolts + lower-offs. Best done with the first two bolts pre-clipped.

FFA: Simon Young, 2006

54
Project - Garry 1 Sport Project

Middle line of bolts between Red Hill Town and Wild Winds. Closed.

55
27 *** Wild Winds Sport 15m

Starts 2m R of the belay on the Men's Gallery ledge. Up face and corner system via some unlikely looking moves. A really good resistance route.

FFA: Garry Phillips, 2005

56
26 *** Doug's Power Climb Sport 15m, 6

Starts 4m left of Wild Winds. Up on good holds to hard boulder problem, then easily to the top. Excellent climbing.

FFA: Doug McConnell, 2006

About 6m left of the normal belay is a DBB (FHs) on the sloping ledge.

57
Project - Will Sport Project

Closed

58
Project - Alex Sport Project

Closed

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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