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Approach

Access via sleepy bay walking track. continue on other side of the beach and go along the skyline traverse. Leave the skyline traverse down to the left along a sloping red granite slab to access the sea-level traverse.

Tags

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start 20m L of Japhlion, 8m to the left of a right facing corner and arete.

  1. 45m Up slab trending to the top right, drop down into gully and tree belay

  2. 40m

  3. 35m

  4. 45m

  5. 30m Crux

  6. 45m

  1. 55m (16) Follow flakes for 20 m then step left and run it out to a pocket full of quartz crystals, then continue to belay near a small tree.

  2. 45m (16) Step left off ledge. Straight up the slab past the overlap. Belay in zen-like cavey scoop on the slab.

  3. 50m (16) Exciting climbing up the slab to an overlap (gear), then follow the gully/crack on the right (staying to its left) to belay in the gully about 15m below the steep corner.

  4. 45m (16) Up to the steep corner (vertical rock? wha-a-at!?) and climb it to a chimney. Get back into slab mode and follow thin crack, tending right to a belay.

  5. 50m (8) Up easy slabs to the top.

Rack - Wires and cams up to BD#4. Small cams (C3s etc) are very useful. Protection could be considered sparse for leaders not confident at the grade.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Hazards Main Wall (Low Starting Point).