A slabby day out. Easy to follow. Bring some smaller wires and cams .1 to 3 BD.
Start 20m L of Japhlion, 8m to the left of a right facing corner and arete.
45m (15) Up the crack for about 10m until confident enough to move right onto the slab, then head boldly towards the top RH corner of slab. Drop off the edge of slab into the gully and go up to the second tree belay.
40m (14) Thrash through tree and step out right onto slab. Head up and right but staying away from the vegetation. Belay in the gully on the Left.
35m (16) Solo diagonally out left and up to a hollow sounding flake. Continue soloing directly up the weakness towards the small shrub in the steeper slab. Continue up easy slab above to a bush belay in the left hand gully.
45m (14) Up the slab trending slightly left, to a wire belay just below the steeper headwall.
30m (16) Up the right leaning crack below the headwall. Pull around this and onto the slab above and belay on large ledge with a trees.
45m (16) Step across a gutter onto the wall behind (don't fall) and follow the slab above to the top.
50m (16) Follow flakes for 20 m then step left and run it out to a pocket full of quartz crystals, then continue to belay near a small tree.
45m (16) Step left off ledge. Straight up the slab past the overlap. Belay in zen-like cavey scoop on the slab.
55m (15) Exciting climbing up the slab to an overlap (gear), then follow the gully/crack on the right (staying to its left) to belay in the gully about 15m below the steep corner.
45m (16) Up to the steep corner (vertical rock? wha-a-at!?) and climb it to a chimney. Get back into slab mode and follow thin crack, tending right to a belay.
50m (8) Up easy slabs to the top.
Rack - Wires and cams up to BD#4. Small cams (C3s etc) are very useful. Protection could be considered sparse for leaders not confident at the grade.
A very nice well-protected slab route accessed by abseil from the top of the Main Wall - a worthy companion to Winning Streaks. Follow the Skyline Traverse track past the top of the Suzuki Complex to the top of the Main Wall. Where the track levels off, and shortly before the top of Japhlion, a squeeze through a slot gives access to a short leaf filled gully on the sea side with a gum tree growing out of it. Down this for about 10m to a scrubby ledge that leads back left 20m towards Sleepy Bay and two U-bolts on the wall above. Abseil 80m (1x25m/1x35m/1x25m) off double U bolt anchors to a small stance at the base of a clean crack on the slab, above the steepening, where you can build a trad anchor.
25m 17 Climb the clean crack up the slab with good gear to a double bolt anchor at a small stance.
35m 17 Follow the line of bolts up the polished water streak to a double bolt anchor on a scrubby ledge. Fully bolted with a couple of optional gear placements.
25m 17 Climb the slab past two bolts to a cam placement in a flake, step left and follow the well protected corner to a tricky little slab then the top.