Mandalay Cliff Mostly sport climbing40 routes in crag
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Large crag facing North West. Warm winter spot overlooking the Colo river. Plenty of old style sport on some rusty carrots with a bunch of nice trad and newer sport thrown in. Be careful of the odd car as you belay from the roadside.
Located on Lower Colo Rd (Southern side of Colo River). Turn off Putty Rd at Upper Colo Rd exit. Turn right under overpass and park just past the bridge. Walk about 300m along Lower Putty Road.
Some new stainless carrots and a wire brush and many of the slab climbs will become very nice routes.
The first line of bolts at the left side of the Grey slabs. P1. Follow the line of bolts to the corner crack of twisted roots then follow bolts traversing right to DBB or abseil chain. P2. Heads diagonally right to top of cliff.
Nice slab climb with some thought provoking moves and an old school run out towards the top. Starts 2m left of Twisted Roots. Straight up wall passing 4? BR to ledge and continue to BR moving right to BR finish at DBB or mover further right to chain.
The line of bolts to to the left of the obvious flake of Twisted Roots. High first bolt to start (can be protected with a cam). Straight up to short chain in small cave.
FA: H Luxford, S Chambers, 1994
Starts to the left of the exposed roots. Probably the most obvious line on the main slab.
Up the good flake / crack move left up ramp to ledge.
Moving left to belay at slanting orange corner.
Up to BR then move left past roofs.
2m right of twisted roots. Straight up wall pasing 9 BR to finish at abseil chain.
The line of bolts to the left of BC. Up wall past blocks then right to faint corner and up over roof to finish on ledge. (SRCC online guide grades this route 18?)
The obvious left facing corner on main slab. Technical start leading to easy left facing corner. 5 BRs to DRBB.
Starts to the right of Bushy Corner at the left end of the cave. Over buldge to cave BR, then cam and up slab passing DRBB of bushy corner. Up slab with 2 more BR to finish at DRBB on ledge. (has cleaned up nice after it has seen a few more ascents in 2013)
FA: P.Thompson, N.Nicholas, 1990
Past the larger grey slab now and onto the shorter slab that has a few caves on the lower section. Most of these routes finish at trees on a ledge to abseil off.
Start marked? To the right of SCS at left end of cave. Up to bolt moving right into cave. Out over roof and up.
FA: H.Luxford, S.Chambers,S.Kitchen, 1994
Start marked? Left hand end of large cave. Up over bulges past edge of cave. Move left slightly then straight up to belay off tree.
FA: H.Luxford, S.Chambers, S.Kitchen, 1994
Follows the yellow streak to the right of cave. Straight up wall.
FA: M.Law, 1990
Following 3 routes are at the right end of the main wall sections. SD and IMMM finish at the large bloodwood that overhangs the cliff top. There is another cliff line accessible from the top of these that appears to be undeveloped.
Line of bolts to the left of Shattered Dreams?