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Description

Large crag facing North West. Warm winter spot overlooking the Colo river. Plenty of old style sport on some rusty carrots with a bunch of nice trad and newer sport thrown in. Be careful of the odd car as you belay from the roadside.

Approach

Located on Lower Colo Rd (Southern side of Colo River). Turn off Putty Rd at Upper Colo Rd exit. Turn right under overpass and park just past the bridge. Walk about 300m along Lower Putty Road.

Some new stainless carrots and a wire brush and many of the slab climbs will become very nice routes.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route

The first climb is located at the far left end (looking in) of the crag and subseqent routes populate the large orange wall. Some starts are marked but the paint has become very faded over the years.

1
14 The Corner Crack Trad 20m

Coner crack at far left end of Crag. After the overhang section

2
15 Camp Crusty Trad 75m

FA: J.Anderson, J.Gilson, C.Radford, 1998

3
24 ** Ethereal McCoy Sport 20m
5
24 Wippet Filter Sport 5m
6
21 Poppet Sport 25m
7
9 * Space to Rent Sport 30m

Starts at the right end of large orange wall. There is a thin yellow bloodwood. The route heads up ramp and heads right across the top of the caves finishing at the top of H and LRR. Is protected with BRs but take rack to reduce the run outs as necessary.

Routes on topo may not be correct fo H and Hail. They seem to be the logical line but don't match the descriptions very well. Please update the description or topo if you work them out.

8
18 H Sport 15m

Start to the left of Hail and LRR Line of bolts straight up then left round roof and right to finish at anchors.

9
20 ** Hali Sport 25m, 11

Marked Start. Right hand end of overhanging section of orange rock. Up corner then moveing left 4m to corner then roof. Left to slab then up to roof. Hand traverse right to finish.

10
20 * Little Red Rooster Sport 25m, 7

Marked Start. Right hand end of overhanging section of orange rock. Shares the same corner start as Hail but continues straight up to top.

The following routes are on the large grey slab area of the crag and are listed from left to right looking in. Twisted routes and bushy corner are the obvious lines and others can be located in relation to them. There is an abseil chain at half way that is less then average (50m rope will reach ground) and also a double ring bolt belay further right on the large ledge (60m rope required).

11
17 Flight Path Sport 50m

The first line of bolts at the left side of the Grey slabs. P1. Follow the line of bolts to the corner crack of twisted roots then follow bolts traversing right to DBB or abseil chain. P2. Heads diagonally right to top of cliff.

12
16 * Lanie Wouldn't Sport 25m

Nice slab climb with some thought provoking moves and an old school run out towards the top. Starts 2m left of Twisted Roots. Straight up wall passing 4? BR to ledge and continue to BR moving right to BR finish at DBB or mover further right to chain.

13
14 Pleasant Sport 13m, 4

The line of bolts to to the left of the obvious flake of Twisted Roots. High first bolt to start (can be protected with a cam). Straight up to short chain in small cave.

FA: H Luxford, S Chambers, 1994

14
16 Twisted Roots Trad 55m

Starts to the left of the exposed roots. Probably the most obvious line on the main slab.

  1. Up the good flake / crack move left up ramp to ledge.

  2. Moving left to belay at slanting orange corner.

  3. Up to BR then move left past roofs.

15
20 * Erotic Nightmare Sport 25m, 9

2m right of twisted roots. Straight up wall pasing 9 BR to finish at abseil chain.

16
20 * Abseil Wall Sport 50m
17
25 Sleepmaster Sport 5m
18
23 ** Groove Terminator Sport 25m
19
20 * Jewish Generosity Sport 25m, 8

The line of bolts to the left of BC. Up wall past blocks then right to faint corner and up over roof to finish on ledge. (SRCC online guide grades this route 18?)

20
14 Bushy Corner Sport 16m, 5

The obvious left facing corner on main slab. Technical start leading to easy left facing corner. 5 BRs to DRBB.

21
14 * Senior Cit's Slab Trad 25m

Starts to the right of Bushy Corner at the left end of the cave. Over buldge to cave BR, then cam and up slab passing DRBB of bushy corner. Up slab with 2 more BR to finish at DRBB on ledge. (has cleaned up nice after it has seen a few more ascents in 2013)

FA: P.Thompson, N.Nicholas, 1990

Past the larger grey slab now and onto the shorter slab that has a few caves on the lower section. Most of these routes finish at trees on a ledge to abseil off.

22
15 Nines Fine Sport 15m

Start marked? To the right of SCS at left end of cave. Up to bolt moving right into cave. Out over roof and up.

FA: H.Luxford, S.Chambers,S.Kitchen, 1994

23
16 Skin Deep Sport 15m

Start marked? Left hand end of large cave. Up over bulges past edge of cave. Move left slightly then straight up to belay off tree.

FA: H.Luxford, S.Chambers, S.Kitchen, 1994

24
23 Prawn of Prophesy Sport 10m

Follows the yellow streak to the right of cave. Straight up wall.

FA: M.Law, 1990

Following 3 routes are at the right end of the main wall sections. SD and IMMM finish at the large bloodwood that overhangs the cliff top. There is another cliff line accessible from the top of these that appears to be undeveloped.

25
18 Jack the Zapper Sport 10m

Line of bolts to the left of Shattered Dreams?

26
14 Shattered Dreams Sport 20m, 5

Straight up passing 2 BR's then move right to BR (hard to see) then up easier ground to large tree belay. Poor Bolts.

27
14 * I Me, Me Mine Sport 18m, 5

3m right of SD. Straight up, Step left to slab and then finishing right up to larger bloodwood. Start can be rather dirty.

Moving west along the road to second cliff line.

28
16 Fadded Message Sport 18m

Start to the right of the old faded safety message on the rock (hard to see). Follow the line of bolts to the left of the large cave.

29
30
28 * Crabstick Unknown 10m
31
22 1976 Unknown 10m
32
22 * Non-stop Sausage Action Unknown 15m
33
16 * Mystic Abstraction Unknown 27m
35
16 Indulge In Reveries Sport 25m
36
18 Rainy day roof Sport 7m, 4

Starts in the middle of the cave, follows obvious crack and pockets thru roof,passing 4BRs to DRBB at cave edge, Lower off here.(first bolt requires 90degree plate as its hard to get others on)

37

climb continues over edge past two more BRs but is not recomended as top is covered in lantana and dirt, is much harder if done to end

38
23 Upside down miss jane Sport 13m, 4
Starts on the right side of cave, up head wall to first RB, then into roof heading left past 3 more RBs to DRBB at edge of cave shared with RDR.

FA: C.martin, J.leel, 2012

Open trips

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