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Description

The overhung chipped side of the boulder facing the walking track.

Access issues inherited from Cooleman Ridge Bouldering

Please be sensible accessing the Horse Paddock boulders if walking in from the Kambah side and go around the horses rather than straight through the pen. Parking for access from this side is on Hake Street.

Ethic inherited from Cooleman Ridge Bouldering

While some of the harder climbs on the ridge were created by chipping, where previously no climb was possible, please leave your chisels at home. There are not so many climbs at the higher grades that they should be brought down to lower levels!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V0 #61 Boulder 3m

Balance problem, great training for slab climbs. Of course, friends don't let friends do slab.

2
US V2 Traverse Boulder 3m

Start for #61 and traverse right into pure slab territory. Hit the undercling and make your way up.

3

Slabby and balancy.

4
V0 #62 Boulder 3m

Another slab problem. Using the crack makes it VBeginner.

5
V0 #63 Boulder 3m

Stay away from that crack!

6
V0 #64 Boulder 3m

Slabbity slab slab.

7
V2 Right of #64 Boulder 4m

A face climb, slapping the arete on the right. Techy.

8
V1 #65 Boulder 3m
9
V3 #66 Boulder 2m

A quality climb slapping up the arete from a sitstart.

10
V4 to V6 #67 sit start Boulder 2m

Completely chipped. Look for the chipped handholds. Photo is a bit misleading - it's about 60 degrees overhung and the first chipped handhold is a bit too low for most people! Grade's pretty dependent on whether you use the tiny incut at the top or either of the aretes. Take the grade you feel, V6 if you go from the chips to the incut before deadpointing to the top.

11
V8 #68 sit start Boulder 3m

Sit start. Use the very low chipped hold and rail on the left to grunt your way up to the next chipped hold for your right hand. Bump successively to oppositional holds then topout (?)

12
V2 #69 Boulder

In between the chipped climbs. Quite overhung climbing on sloped holds.

13
V8 #70 sit start Boulder

Probably the best face climb on the Ridge. Powerful and delicate, requiring great body tension and with a demanding topout. There are rocks in the fall zone so a spotter would be a good idea.

14
V6 * #71 sit start Boulder

Sit start.

15
V4 * #71 RH variant Boulder 3m

Sit start from the start to #71, then trend right, heel hook up and edge your way onto positive holds around the blunt arete. Top out from there.

16
V? #72 no hands Boulder

Is it a climb if you don't use your hands? Or just a steep walk?

17
V3 #73 Boulder

Cute little climb with a few suspect flakes. Sit start out right and head left onto good footholds and easily topout.

18
V1 #74 Boulder 4m

Undercling on smears and up. Left hand closer to V1, right hand more like V2.

19
V0 #75 Boulder 4m

SlabLyfe.

20
V0 #76 Boulder 4m

A nice little jaunt onto a jug.

21
V2 #77 Boulder 4m

Stand start the arete.

22
V5 * 77 sit start Boulder 4m

Sit start and grunt your way up along the arete and using a few oppositional holds.

FA: David Nott

23
V2 * #78 Boulder 4m
24

On boulder down hill from main group towards Pony boulders. Avoid obvious loose block. Route on short overhung face of LHS facing fire trail.

25

On boulder down hill from main group towards Pony boulders. Avoid obvious loose block. Route just right of Here's Lucy on back of boulder.

26
V1 Vampires Fang Boulder

Small sloper traverse on wedge shaped boulder to the right of main group. Sit start on distinctive fang then up and right to arete topout.

FA: Stu and Mike, 2009

27
V2 Spagnum Boulder

sit start problem on thin crack on left near "cave" to mossy topout