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Description

Park in Niblo or Darrell Pl and walk straight up the hill to a set of boulders past some trees. V0 to V8+ climbing. The area has been updated with a topo - not all climbs are listed as this is a guide to help you find which boulder is which. From there, the photo topos should get you onto the correct climb! Some of the angles on the drawn topo may also be slightly skewed.

Access issues inherited from Cooleman Ridge Bouldering

Please be sensible accessing the Horse Paddock boulders if walking in from the Kambah side and go around the horses rather than straight through the pen. Parking for access from this side is on Hake Street.

Approach

3-5 minutes from Niblo or Darrell Place, uphill. There is a small walking track between the trees, or you can walk directly uphill through the scrub and blackberry. See area topo.

Ethic inherited from Cooleman Ridge Bouldering

While some of the harder climbs on the ridge were created by chipping, where previously no climb was possible, please leave your chisels at home. There are not so many climbs at the higher grades that they should be brought down to lower levels!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
V5 * The Knife Edge Boulder 3m

Straight up the most overhung part of the boulder, with no real footing to get you started. Hugely shouldery, height dependent as well but essentially a fairly short problem (shorter people can probably add 1-2 grades and will probably need to toe-hook the other side of the boulder just to get started on very poor slopers).

FA: Unknown, 2012

2
V3 * #4 Boulder 3m

Bring a mat and a spotter - big sharp rock right in the fall zone. While this climb is quite short, it's also almost devoid of anywhere to place your feet.

3
V4 * #5 Boulder 2m

Direct up the arete off the small flake. Balancy and thin with a deadpoint required. Mat and spotter mandatory if you like your back.

4
V2 Purple patch Boulder 3m

Thin crimpy and short direct line on face to right of the #6 large flake

5
V6 * Icecream traverse Boulder Project 3m

Open project - traverse the obvious ridge of the icecream boulder near to #6 - all the way! Crux is the section facing to the road. Has been attempted many times, including by a foreign climber doing 8b on rope! If you send it, please grade it.

6
V0 Icecream Pleez? Boulder

From front of the icecream traverse boulder, up and left from a stand start, top out to the left. Straight up a fair bit harder.

7
V4 * Bring Bert Back Boulder 4m

Straight up the front of the Icecream Boulder. Try not to rip off the crucial loose rubble on the right shoulder of the bottom block.

FFA: B Bertson

8
V1 ** #6 Boulder

Up past the large flake and mantle out on top. A few variants, all roughly V1.

9

Bring spotters and mats and be prepared to fall. A few reasonable handholds, but expect to be 8 feet up falling onto hard packed earth should you not have eaten the wheaties to get yourself ready for this. Insecure, scary, dangerous. You have been warned.

10
V2 #7 Boulder 5m

Variation of number 6. The arete is the definitive climb in the CCA guide. V7 for the arete, V2 to join up with no. 6.

11
V7 #8 Boulder 5m

Straight up using the poor feet and the incut at chest height, incut higher up and the bulge. A few ways to do it but they're all mean.

12
US V8 #8 arete Boulder 6m

Straight up the arete, topping out straight up through the seam. Hard!

13
V8 #9 Boulder 5m

One chipped hold, strenuous moves on tiny holds. Getting feet onto the rock is the crux - probably a 1-2 move problem, but hard ones nonetheless. Grade to be confirmed.

14
V3 SLSS Boulder 2m

Before the fence, there's a group of boulders to the right. Sit start on the first 'face' climbable boulder, off two sidepulls and up. Strenuous, short, and massively contrived. Getting feet set is very, very tough.

15
V1 #10 Boulder 2m

Forget looking for holds - trust the friction, Luke. Sit start.

16
V0 #11 Boulder 2m

Friction climb. Very slabby.

17
V1 #12 (squat start) Boulder

For anyone feeling strong - needs a sit added. Round the corner from #13, the arete climb.

18
V4 Furking Leer Boulder 3m

A one-hand pull up at the start throwing to sidepulls and small incuts for the feet. Once you stand up over the bulge, everything is easy sailing.

FA: Who knows, 2011

19
V3 #13 Boulder 2m

Sit start up the arete. Burly. Round the corner of the boulder from #12. Top out directly from the undercut side - don't pull around onto the slab.

20
V5 * Acid Traverse Boulder 1m

Traverse the whole boulder (spraypainted boulder, home to The Dish and #s 14-18). Strenuous crimping/balance section, easy to fall off.

FFA:

21
V0 #14 Boulder 4m

Easiest one on the rock. Ladder-like.

22
V0 #15 Boulder 4m

Somewhat forgettable with no really hard moves.

23
V1 #16 Boulder 4m

Left of the dish - difficult to place feet until you get to the bucket.

24

Lovely compression climb just left of #17.

25
V4 #17 Boulder 4m

Straight up the acid traverse boulder on tiny crimps with a slopey as crap dish to help you along. May want to lose 5 kilos before hopping on it! V4 with the gaston, probably closer to V5 if you throw straight from the chipped incut crimps to the hueco.

26
V3 * 17 RH variant Boulder 4m

From a stand start, head leftwards and up past a glory incut at head height to the hueco then up.

27
V4 SS RH variant to 17 Boulder 4m

Sit start down low, then up as for the RH variant of #17.

28
V0 #18 Boulder 4m

Not to be confused with #14, the descent. Round the corner a little - can be climbed as an eliminate, upping the grade.

29
V3 #19 Boulder 3m

Sit start. A large amount of rock has broken off on the left side. There is another large piece that is ready to go at any moment, but shouldn't affect the difficulty. Grade depends on whether you use the kneebar.

30
V3 #20 Boulder 3m

Sit start.

31
V2 #21a Boulder 2m

Sit start, at the end of the boulder sharing #21.

32
V2 #22 Boulder 3m

Lovely heel hook in this climb. Sit start.

33

Around the corner from #22. Tricky start.

34
V1 #23 Boulder 3m

Climb or dyno, either works.

35
V2 23 arete Boulder 3m

Sit-start up the arete using the protruding block. Moving around to the other side, there's a truly lovely one handed layback possible. Otherwise, there's face holds.

36
V0 #24 Boulder 3m

Go from the bottom to the top. Layback, climb the face, do what you will really.

37
V1 #25 Boulder 3m

On the boulder off to the left and downhill a bit from the acid traverse boulder. If you look closely you can still see the number written on the boulder where the climb starts.

38

Technical and balancy sit start.

39
V3 #26 Boulder 3m

Sit start from the crimps low down to the incut then straight up.

40
V1 Between #26 and #27 Boulder 3m

Sit start (?) between #26 and #27.

41
V2 #27 Boulder

Sit start.

42
V1 #28 Boulder 4m

A stretchy climb - crux is the start.

43
V0 #29 Boulder 5m

Slabby and more scary than tough. Don't be fooled by the photos - it's quite tall!

44
V1 Dishysoisse Boulder 2m

Photo to be added sometime soon. Lowball to the extreme, but goes on slopers which makes it almost worthwhile.

FA: David Nott, 2011

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.