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Approach

This is further east, approx. 2km along the gorge rim from the Dangars Falls car park, and is the first large buttress seen from the Dangars Falls lookouts. The climbs are described from left to right. The first climb you see is the roof problem Mystery Achievement.

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Start: 6m right of the fence, at the left hand end (higher) of the buttress. A rightward trending crack through a roof.

10m Start in cave, climb crack through roof to top.

FA: J.Lattanzio & M.Colyvan, 1980

2
8 Fairy Choss Trad 60m 2

Start: The corner 30m right of Mystery Achievement.

  1. 30m Up chimney trending to off-width, to a sloping grassy ledge. Belay in open chimney.

  2. 30m Continue up corner to spacious grassy ledge, then up chimney to top.

FA: J.Lattanzio & E.Sharp, 1980

3
14 Plain Sailing Trad 45m

Start: Corner crack about 20m. right of F.C.

Pleasant, well protected climbing up corner crack.

FA: B.Killip, A.Killip, R.Thomas & B.Birchall, 1978

4
20 M1 ** Bombora Aid 45m 2

Start: The impressive line up the wave-like rock to the right of Plain Sailing.

  1. 20m (crux) Straight up the crack till it no longer feels like 20. Some aid over the bulge and into the crack again. At the top move left onto small ledge.

  2. 25m Straight up the crack then easy wall to top.

FA: A.Stephens & G.Croft, 1982

Activity

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