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Description

This is the next major cliff approx. half a kilometre past Flaky Buttress and about the same size. Named in honour of the famous Cliffy Ritchard and The Shadows!

The first climb is Eaves Dropper.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
19 Eaves Dropper Trad 30m

Start: Half-way down the gully is a corner with two roofs. Scramble up to the large ledge at the base of the corner.

Bridge the corner and move around the roofs. Up the overhanging jam crack and an easier crack to the top.

FA: A.Stephens & R.Clark (alt. leads) (one rest), 1981

FFA: A.Stephens & E.Sharp, 1981

2
19 Aires and Graces Trad 60m, 3

Start: Approx. half-way between Eaves Dropper and Nicotinus. Scramble up to the base of the right-angled corner.

  1. 20m (crux) Hard jamming up a corner to good ledge.

  2. 15m Up and around roof to base of fierce crack. Avoid the true line and traverse left to a large flake.

  3. 25m Up flake then easily up crack.

FA: R.Clark & A.Stephens (alt. leads) (one rest), 1981

FFA: M.Colyvan, G.Pritchard & A.Stephens, 1981

3
23 Lackluster Backbuster Trad 60m, 4

Start: The direct line up from where Airs And Graces begins. Pitches 1,2 and 3 are great climbing. Pitch 4 is the price you have to pay.

  1. 20m As for 'Airs and Graces'

  2. 10m (crux) Continue straight up crack to belay where it ends.

  3. 10m Traverse right to mantle onto jutting block, then up corner to belay in large sloping alcove.

  4. 20m Through jam/offwidth bulge (three right hands needed) then up body chimney (struggle) to top.

FA: P.Bayne & A.Stephens (alt. leads), 1982

4
18 Nicotinus Trad 65m, 3

Start: Near the right-hand end of the main cliff, an off-width chimney corner.

  1. 25m (crux) Off-width chimney leads to twin grooves. Take the left groove, belay on ledge.

  2. 25m (crux) Up crack to ledge. traverse left to main exit crack which leads to a large ledge.

  3. 15m Jam up sickle shaped crack (avoid the layback), move right and up to ledge. Scramble to top.

FA: R.Clark & A.Stephens (alt leads), 1981

Activity

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