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Routes as trad in Richard Cliff

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Showing all 4 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
19 Eaves Dropper

Start: Half-way down the gully is a corner with two roofs. Scramble up to the large ledge at the base of the corner.

Bridge the corner and move around the roofs. Up the overhanging jam crack and an easier crack to the top.

FA: A.Stephens & R.Clark (alt. leads) (one rest), 1981

FFA: A.Stephens & E.Sharp, 1981

Trad 30m
19 Aires and Graces

Start: Approx. half-way between Eaves Dropper and Nicotinus. Scramble up to the base of the right-angled corner.

  1. 20m (crux) Hard jamming up a corner to good ledge.

  2. 15m Up and around roof to base of fierce crack. Avoid the true line and traverse left to a large flake.

  3. 25m Up flake then easily up crack.

FA: R.Clark & A.Stephens (alt. leads) (one rest), 1981

FFA: M.Colyvan, G.Pritchard & A.Stephens, 1981

Trad 60m, 3
23 Lackluster Backbuster

Start: The direct line up from where Airs And Graces begins. Pitches 1,2 and 3 are great climbing. Pitch 4 is the price you have to pay.

  1. 20m As for 'Airs and Graces'

  2. 10m (crux) Continue straight up crack to belay where it ends.

  3. 10m Traverse right to mantle onto jutting block, then up corner to belay in large sloping alcove.

  4. 20m Through jam/offwidth bulge (three right hands needed) then up body chimney (struggle) to top.

FA: P.Bayne & A.Stephens (alt. leads), 1982

Trad 60m, 4
18 Nicotinus

Start: Near the right-hand end of the main cliff, an off-width chimney corner.

  1. 25m (crux) Off-width chimney leads to twin grooves. Take the left groove, belay on ledge.

  2. 25m (crux) Up crack to ledge. traverse left to main exit crack which leads to a large ledge.

  3. 15m Jam up sickle shaped crack (avoid the layback), move right and up to ledge. Scramble to top.

FA: R.Clark & A.Stephens (alt leads), 1981

Trad 65m, 3

Showing all 4 routes.