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Showing all 7 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
15 Pull Up

Start: Interesting climb directly up the face of the falls. Some loose rock. Possible only in dry weather. Start at the chockstone to the left of the bottom of the crack and left-hand ledge of falls.

  1. 25m Right to base of crack, up crack then slab to belay.

  2. 20m (crux) Back down (?) slab to crack, up crack, then chimney and left at top of crack to stance.

  3. 33m. Traverse left along ledge, then up small wall onto slab, then tree belay.

  4. 33m. Traverse right across slab then up water chute.

FA: J.Davis & B.Harden, 1965

Trad 130m, 4
10 Rumble Gully

Start: At the bottom of the second gully to the left of the pool below the major falls.

  1. 20m (crux) Up crack, then chimney and over the small overhang

  2. 40m Scramble up to knife-edge which hides the hidden pool.

  3. 12m Up wall above the hidden pool via crack.

  4. Walk up.

  5. 20m. Depending on the amount of water, take the overhanging chimney behind big rock in big pool. Alternatively, chimney to the right of the pool and traverse left.

FA: B.Harden & D.McLean, 1965

Trad 90m, 5
10 Variant Start To Rumble Gully

Start: In gully right of RG.

Up 7m then up right crack 10m traverse 5m (which way?) then after this wandering, over slight overhang to belay.

FA: D.McLean (second did not follow), 1965

Trad 30m
14 Deception

Start: The crack between R.G. and Zig Zag.

Up the crack for 30m. (some rotten rock) over the bulge and either up the slabs to the right, or continue up the corner crack

FA: R.Dixon, B.Killip & B.Birchall, 1974

Trad 40m
11 Zig Zag

Start: An appropriate name. In the chimney Start: A crack on a wall in the watercourse above the lower pool, to the right of Deception. below the pool.

Up narrow chimney, then traverse right, along ledge, then up, traverse left, then right and up line of weakness. Traverse left and scramble to top.

FA: D.McLean & B.Harden, 1965

Trad 33m
16 Calculated Thrill

Start: On the large wall downstream from the main falls. The huge (Eternity) crack in the wall.

Hands to easy off-width. Large gear (Tubes if you have them) is necessary.

  1. 47m (crux) A short hand traverse then straight up the crack.

  2. 25m. Traverse left, joining up with Pitch 2 of Bird On A Wire. Belay in corner.

  3. 20m Straight up as for Pitch 3 of Bird On A Wire, then scramble out to top of gorge.

FA: A.Stephens, E.Sharp (alt. leads) & E.Sharp (alt leads), 1981

Trad 92m, 3
16 Bird On A Wire

Start: A Leonard Cohen classic. On the downstream side of the lower pinnacle, approx 50m downstream from the waterfall.

  1. 35m. Up the line of corners to the base of a ramp.

  2. 25m. A rising traverse to the left along the ramp.

  3. 20m (crux) Up the right-hand crack/chimney, scramble up the groove and then some mank for 70m.

FA: R.Dixon, A.Stephens (alt leads) & C.May, 1975

Trad 90m, 3

Showing all 7 routes.