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Description:

Start: Moving left from Goldfinger the next obvious feature is a major corner. This is the start for Slippery When Wet (goes diagonally right) and Toecap. Dangars Falls dries completely usually once a year. This climb, like Goldfinger, can only be climbed when completely dry.

  1. 33m. Up rib (15m) then traverse right (6m.) and up to ledge below steep wall (rusty piton).
  2. 18m. Diagonally up and right, then traverse right and up corner with thin crack to very large ledge (another rusty piton).
  3. 22m. Diagonally up and right, then straight up to belay in small corner (yet another rusty piton).
  4. 28m. Diagonally up and right, then straight up corner, then right onto nose, then right into second corner, up corner then traverse right to belay on ledge 6m. left of Action.
  5. 30m. Diagonally up left across slabs then to base of wall, traverse left and down slightly, then up fine, left diagonal crack to belay in sentry box.
  6. 23m. Up diagonally right crack line, then diagonally right again to corner, left around projections.
  7. 18m.The line of least resistance to top.
Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: -A.Stephens, G.Francis, (alt leads), 1980

Location:  

Located in Dangars Falls approx:
Long/Lat: 151.727379,-30.676110

Route Grade Citations

13 Principal
13 John Lattanzio

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

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