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Table of contents
- Unique Features And Strengths:
Like climbing inside a giant mixing bowl.
Warning: - Don’t climb at Dangars Falls if the rock is wet or if it looks like rain. The rock is very slippery when wet.
- S.L.C.D.’s don’t work very well on this rock type - they slip with alarming ease. Hexes and wires are needed here.
- Helmets are recommended. This is a tourist area and tourists throw stones.
Some climbs may not be able to be attempted depending on how much water is coming over the falls. Be sensible.
Follow the signposts from various points around Armidale to Kennedy St. and out onto Dangarsleigh Rd. Continue along this road till you come to the War Memorial. Either turn left here, or continue along Dangarsleigh Rd. to a turn-off further along. Park in the car-park. The access walking track is located down the gully near the car park. This track zig-zags to the bottom of the gorge. Near the bottom the track gets very steep.
The climbs will be described from the “orange pillar” on the right hand side of the water course, around left to the smaller climbs opposite the waterfall. The first climb is The Orange Pillar. Apparently this was climbed by John (Action) Lindsay and Hugh Spencer in 1960. No details or grades are available. As far as I know no-one has ever attempted a second ascent.
Start: In the corner to the left of the orange pillar. This climb was put up by three climbers who became lost while attempting to do Action. The corner has a lot of loose rock. Not recommended. As for Action from pitch 2 onwards.
2-5. 104m Traverse left along obvious ledge, then up up and away...as for Action (see next route).
FA: N.Hughes, N.Beynon, J.Street, 1970
Start: The classic of the cliff. Many variants are possible. Start near the corner of Drednought at an old piton.
FA: D.McLean, D.Mills, 1968
Start: Can only be done when the falls stop flowing. Left of Action is a rib, then a channel the main water course. Goldfinger goes up this channel, then swings right to join Action at approx. 2/3rds height. The grade may be much harder as no-one has yet done a second ascent. The original description, like this one, is very vague. Good luck.
FA: J.Davis, D.McLean, 1965
Slippery When Wet
Start: Moving left from Goldfinger the next obvious feature is a major corner. This is the start for Slippery When Wet (goes diagonally right) and Toecap. Dangars Falls dries completely usually once a year. This climb, like Goldfinger, can only be climbed when completely dry.
FA: -A.Stephens, G.Francis, (alt leads), 1980
Start: As for S.W.W. The rib. Avoid any yellow rock ! Its rotten...Variant starts are possible to the left.
FA: R.Harden, D.McLean, 1965
Further round to the left of 'Toecap' is a smaller wall where the lines finish on a dirty ledge. The left-hand climbs are easiest. The climbs are described here from Left to Right, ie from downstream to upstream. The line furthest to the left is 'Kneecap'. From the top of these climbs you can either walk out up the long dirty gully or, more difficult, go left and down to the large pool, cross the river, then traverse at water level, left around to the original walk-down track.
Start: At the base of a ramp below first pool opposite the main falls
FA: M.Thomas, V.Galer, 1966
Start: 15m. right of Kneecap.
FA: M.Thomas, J.Street, 1968
Start: This is a direct start to Nightcap. No details available.
FA: P.Prior, J.Kelman, 1974
Start; The next major line right of Nightcap. A crack through a roof. A real adrenalin booster.
FA: B.Birchall, G.Croft, 1981
Start: The line right of Foolscap. A crack through a small roof with a thin crack corner above. Paul put a Friend in a vertical, near parallel groove-gave it a tug to test it...the Friend slid straight out, much to his horror. He later returned with Hexes.
FA: P.Bayne, M.Colyvan,(alt leads) G.Croft, Mar., 1981
Start: The next main line right of Total Control.
FA: B.Birchall, G.Francis, (alt leads), 1981
Along the northern rim of the gorge are several granite crags. These can be seen from the various lookouts. The first one you will approach as you proceed along the gorge is Dynomight Buttress. No one has been able to find it since then so if you do let me know.
Eastward, along the north rim of the gorge to the first granite outcrop approx. 200m. past a large gully, descend a minor gully (marked with two pieces of tape on fence) about 20m. then traverse east below upper tier. There are three obvious lines. Two have been completed.
Start; A superb layback crack, starts on a ledge 5m. up.
FA: Paul Bayne & Brian Birchall, 1982
Start: The finger crack through steps.
12m. Up crack through the overhanging steps and join the line to the right at half height.
FA: Paul Bayne & Brian Birchall, 1982
Trad and Aid
|2||Aires and Graces||19||60m|
|5||Pariah||15m||1.4. Pritchard Cliff|
|8||Fairy Choss||60m||1.3. Flaky Buttress|
|9||Toecap Variant||52m||1.1. Dangars Falls|
|10||Kneecap||80m||1.1. Dangars Falls|
|11||Dreadnought||150m||1.1. Dangars Falls|
|12||Copperhead||20m||1.1. Dangars Falls|
|Nightcap||75m||1.1. Dangars Falls|
|13||Slippery When Wet||170m||1.1. Dangars Falls|
|Toecap||200m||1.1. Dangars Falls|
|14||Action||150m||1.1. Dangars Falls|
|Plain Sailing||45m||1.3. Flaky Buttress|
|16||Goldfinger||200m||1.1. Dangars Falls|
|17||Caprice||140m||1.1. Dangars Falls|
|18||Foolscap||230m||1.1. Dangars Falls|
|Nicotinus||65m||1.3. Flaky Buttress|
|19||Aires and Graces||60m||1.5. Richard Cliff|
|Eaves Dropper||30m||1.5. Richard Cliff|
|20||Total Control||65m||1.1. Dangars Falls|
|Dynomight||12m||1.2. Dynomight Buttress|
|Incremental Creep||15m||1.2. Dynomight Buttress|
|Mystery Achievement||10m||1.3. Flaky Buttress|
|20 M1||Bombora||45m||1.3. Flaky Buttress|
|23||Lackluster Backbuster||60m||1.5. Richard Cliff|