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Table of contents

1. Dangars Gorge 43 routes in Crag

Trad, Deep Water and Aid

Long/Lat: 151.743183, -30.681797

1.1. Dangars Falls 12 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.727379, -30.676110

Unique Features And Strengths:

Like climbing inside a giant mixing bowl.


Warning: - Don’t climb at Dangars Falls if the rock is wet or if it looks like rain. The rock is very slippery when wet.

  • S.L.C.D.’s don’t work very well on this rock type - they slip with alarming ease. Hexes and wires are needed here.
  • Helmets are recommended. This is a tourist area and tourists throw stones.

Some climbs may not be able to be attempted depending on how much water is coming over the falls. Be sensible.


Follow the signposts from various points around Armidale to Kennedy St. and out onto Dangarsleigh Rd. Continue along this road till you come to the War Memorial. Either turn left here, or continue along Dangarsleigh Rd. to a turn-off further along. Park in the car-park. The access walking track is located down the gully near the car park. This track zig-zags to the bottom of the gorge. Near the bottom the track gets very steep.

Where To Stay:

There is a National Park Campground at the falls.



Rock climbing in the Armidale district is believed to have commenced around 1960 at Dangars Falls. Two climbers, John (Action) Lindsay and Hugh Spencer, at that time, climbed the waterfall face right of the water-course. This is of course the climb known today as Action. At the same time it is believed that they also climbed the orange pinnacle right of Action.

Looking for other great challenges, in 1961 Lindsay and party attempted and completed the first ascent of the Wollomombi-Chandler Ridge. Obviously other members of the Mountaineering Club thought they were a little crazy, as none of these climbs were recorded. No doubt Lindsay and others attempted/completed other climbs but unfortunately no records were kept.

The first recorded climbs were completed in 1964.

Bob Harden and Doug McLean formed a climbing group called the Delta Club, a breakaway group from the University Of New England Mountaineering Club (UNEMC). Starts of climbs were marked with a Delta instead of the usual square. Some of these markings were still visible at Bakers Creek in the early seventies but have since been worn away. Two climbs were put up in 1964 by Harden and McLean. They are Bakercide (6) and Nitrocide(8), both at Bakers Creek. 1965 saw the Delta club leap into action. John Davis and Mike Thomas joined Harden and McLean.

Apart from climbing at Bakers Creek, the group make excursions to Mihi Falls and Dangars Falls. Five new climbs were put up at Bakers Creek. The best being Davicide(13) by Davis, Punjacide(13) by I.Logan and the two aid climbs, ADP(M1) and ryocide(M1), both by Harden. Three climbs were completed at Mihi- the best being the classic Pull Up(15) by Davis. During the same year they made their first visit onto the big, scary wall of Dangars Falls. Harden put up the very run-out Toecap(13), while Davis climbed Goldfinger(16), a climb that hasn’t, at the time of writing this guide, had a second ascent !

In 1966 McLean with Dave Mills repeated Lindsay’s route, giving it the name Action (14), while the best route at Bakers Creek was Normacide (11) by Mills.

1967 produced only two new ones at Bakers Creek. Hardicide (14) by Thomas and the tricky Speleocide (12) by B.Douglas.

The only new route in 1968 was at Dangars, Nightcap (12) by Thomas.

Mills pioneered two new ones at Bakers Creek in 1969. The best being Klettercide (12). Noel Beynon with J.Street had a close look at the rock around Wollomombi Falls. They found and climbed Dono Dedit (8) During this year the Wollomombi-Chandler Ridge became a popular trip. Elaine Cantrill (Elaine’s Gorge-a canyon- is named after her) arrived on the scene, and swinging leads with R.Jones, put up the long Magnificent Obsession (9) on Oaky Falls. The same pair did the first route at Four Mile Creek Falls, Skylite (6).


The only new route in 1970 was Drednought (14) at Dangars Falls by N.Hughes and Beynon. This takes the corner right of Action and left of the Orange Pillar. Today it is quite loose and probably was then.

1971 produced eight climbs. Five at Bakers Creek- the best being Pissed Psychedelic Peanut (15) by A.Suters and Cornelius Corners (15) by Rob Dixon. Hughes and Beynon found the chossiest route in New England at Wollomombi Falls. It goes up a slabby wall onto the Wollomombi-Chandler Ridge, opposite the falls. It is appropriately titled Violet Crumble Bar (13). J.Street with Dick Gallimore did We Are Not Amused(12), the chimney next to the falls at Four Mile Creek Falls, while R.Jones with Gallimore did Nuttinge (14) at the same crag.

1974 saw Phil Prior arrive, and with Jill Kelman put up a direct start to Nightcap, which they named Copperhead (12). Rob Dixon dragged Bob Killip and Brian Birchall to Mihi to do Deception(14). Prior, at Bakers Creek, disappeared into the mank just downstream of Bakers Creek Falls, to produce Frigid Air (6).

In 1975, Al Stephens with Dixon added the first four pitches to We Are Not Amused (12) at Four Mile Creek Falls. At the same location Killip with Rob Stazewski completed The Killip-Stazewski Route On The East Face Of Four Mile (20). At Mihi Dixon, with Stephens, did Bird On A Wire (16). In 1978, a granite cliff,Flaky Buttress, downstream from Dangars, was discovered by Bob Killip. The result was Plain Sailing (14).


Dangars received two new ones in 1980. Stephens with Geoff Francis did the multi-pitch Slippery When Wet (13) during a drought, while on the opposite wall Birchall with Francis did Caprice (17). At Bakers Creek Austin Legler with Greg (Dulux) Pritchard did Basilisk (16). Back at Flaky Buttress (Dangars) Jack Lattanzio, with Ed Sharp, warmed up on Fairy Choss (8), and later that year returned with Mark Colyvan to complete Mystery Achievement (20).

1981 saw Dangars Falls yield Total Control (20) by Bayne and Colyvan, as well as Foolscap (18) by Birchall. Downstream, past Flaky Buttress Stephens and Rob Clark found The Richard Cliff and put up three great climbs, the best being Eavesdropper (19) by Stephens and Airs and Graces (19) by Clark. Stephens with Sharp had a Calculated Thrill (16) at Mihi after he did White Man’s Burden (20) with Clark at Bakers Creek. Near The Richard Cliff Pritchard found The Pritchard Cliff and soloed the only route to date, Pariah (5).

In 1982 Paul Bayne found another crag, Dynomight Buttress, near (before ?) Flaky Buttress. No one has been able to locate it since. At Flaky Buttress Stephens put up the great Bombora (20 M1). Bayne managed to eliminated most of the aid but left the grade the same. On Richard Cliff, the next crag down the gorge, Bayne with Stephens, did the powerful Lackluster Backbuster (23).

In 1985, Stephens made a brief visit to Bakers Ck. to establish Cheesy Gland (20), a variant finish to Cornelius Corners.

At Bakers Ck. in 1986 Stephens with Larry Dixon eliminated all aid on ADP, now 21.


No new routes were put up on or around any of the falls from 1986 until the drought of 1993 when Wollomombi Falls were completely dry! Ben Christian and Stephens did After the Rain (18). The drought continued in 1994 and once again Wollomombi Falls dried up. This time Gordon Low and Stephens with Tim Hill completed a line parallel to After the Rain, called God’s Of Thunder (18).

Most of this guide and the history was documented in 'Waterfalls-A Rock climbers guide to the waterfalls of New England' by Al Stephens (1996)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The climbs will be described from the “orange pillar” on the right hand side of the water course, around left to the smaller climbs opposite the waterfall. The first climb is The Orange Pillar. Apparently this was climbed by John (Action) Lindsay and Hugh Spencer in 1960. No details or grades are available. As far as I know no-one has ever attempted a second ascent.

1 Dreadnought

Start: In the corner to the left of the orange pillar. This climb was put up by three climbers who became lost while attempting to do Action. The corner has a lot of loose rock. Not recommended. As for Action from pitch 2 onwards.

  1. 46m. Straight up the corner for approx. 41m then traverse left for 5m. to a large ledge.

2-5. 104m Traverse left along obvious ledge, then up up and away...as for Action (see next route).

FA: N.Hughes, N.Beynon, J.Street, 1970

11 Trad 150m
2 ** Action

Start: The classic of the cliff. Many variants are possible. Start near the corner of Drednought at an old piton.

  1. 30m. Straight up the steps. Belay on the most convenient ledge.
  2. 50m. Continue straight up. You will eventually come to a slightly overhanging short crack corner. Up this, onto ledge then continue up to large ledge at the base of a layback crack corner. Belay.
  3. 50m. Layback/bridge up the corner, then move across to the slightly vegetated wall above, and continue up the wall. Belay wherever convenient.
  4. 35m. Continue straight up till you can move in right , behind a large block. Belay.
  5. 30m.+ (crux) Up the steep wall beside the water course, picking the easiest line to the top. The exit is awkward and exposed.

FA: D.McLean, D.Mills, 1968

14 Trad 150m
3 ** Goldfinger

Start: Can only be done when the falls stop flowing. Left of Action is a rib, then a channel the main water course. Goldfinger goes up this channel, then swings right to join Action at approx. 2/3rds height. The grade may be much harder as no-one has yet done a second ascent. The original description, like this one, is very vague. Good luck.

  1. 40m. Up the channel left of the rib.
  2. 30m. Slightly steeper now. Sparse protection. Continue straight up choosing the line of least resistance.
  3. 20m. Continue upwards till you are able to move right to join the last three pitches of Action. 4.5.6. 110m. As for Action.

FA: J.Davis, D.McLean, 1965

16 Trad 200m
4 Slippery When Wet

Start: Moving left from Goldfinger the next obvious feature is a major corner. This is the start for Slippery When Wet (goes diagonally right) and Toecap. Dangars Falls dries completely usually once a year. This climb, like Goldfinger, can only be climbed when completely dry.

  1. 33m. Up rib (15m) then traverse right (6m.) and up to ledge below steep wall (rusty piton).
  2. 18m. Diagonally up and right, then traverse right and up corner with thin crack to very large ledge (another rusty piton).
  3. 22m. Diagonally up and right, then straight up to belay in small corner (yet another rusty piton).
  4. 28m. Diagonally up and right, then straight up corner, then right onto nose, then right into second corner, up corner then traverse right to belay on ledge 6m. left of Action.
  5. 30m. Diagonally up left across slabs then to base of wall, traverse left and down slightly, then up fine, left diagonal crack to belay in sentry box.
  6. 23m. Up diagonally right crack line, then diagonally right again to corner, left around projections.
  7. 18m.The line of least resistance to top.

FA: -A.Stephens, G.Francis, (alt leads), 1980

13 Trad 170m
5 Toecap

Start: As for S.W.W. The rib. Avoid any yellow rock ! Its rotten...Variant starts are possible to the left.

  1. 45m. Up left of rib, then onto rib, up slabs to wall, traverse 5m. to left, then up corner to large ledge, then scramble easily up to ledge below steep wall.
  2. 40m. Diagonally left onto slabs, up slabs to obvious corner.
  3. 45m. Up corner, traverse left along ledge to belay stance.
  4. 40m. Rising traverse to right (poor protection), then to ledge.
  5. 30m. Up wall and scramble to top.

FA: R.Harden, D.McLean, 1965

13 Trad 200m
6 Toecap Variant 9 Trad 52m

Further round to the left of 'Toecap' is a smaller wall where the lines finish on a dirty ledge. The left-hand climbs are easiest. The climbs are described here from Left to Right, ie from downstream to upstream. The line furthest to the left is 'Kneecap'. From the top of these climbs you can either walk out up the long dirty gully or, more difficult, go left and down to the large pool, cross the river, then traverse at water level, left around to the original walk-down track.

7 Kneecap

Start: At the base of a ramp below first pool opposite the main falls

  1. 34m. Up towards vertical cracks, step right and continue up to right, to a spiky ledge. Belay.
  2. 32m. Traverse right to bottom of v-shaped gully. Up wall on right, traverse right under small overhang. Belay
  3. 14m.Up corner or wall to top.

FA: M.Thomas, V.Galer, 1966

10 Trad 80m
8 Nightcap

Start: 15m. right of Kneecap.

  1. 30m. Traverse along and up ramp, moving up to base of wall on right.
  2. 15m. Up to right, across wall.
  3. 30m. Up to top of small gully.

FA: M.Thomas, J.Street, 1968

12 Trad 75m
9 Copperhead

Start: This is a direct start to Nightcap. No details available.

FA: P.Prior, J.Kelman, 1974

12 Trad 20m
10 Foolscap

Start; The next major line right of Nightcap. A crack through a roof. A real adrenalin booster.

  1. 25m. (crux) Slab up to left of roof, swing right and up to base of roof, surmount roof then up crack and then step right to belay ledge.
  2. 40m. Up incipient crack directly above ledge to tree belay (trend slightly to left).
  3. 40m. Right, and up vegetated gully to obvious wide crack, continue up to suitable tree belay.
  4. 25m. Take the easiest line to tree belay (trending right).
  5. 50m. Straight up wall, then scrambling, climbing to tree belay.
  6. 50m. Take easiest line, scrambling and climbing to top.

FA: B.Birchall, G.Croft, 1981

18 Trad 230m
11 Total Control

Start: The line right of Foolscap. A crack through a small roof with a thin crack corner above. Paul put a Friend in a vertical, near parallel groove-gave it a tug to test it...the Friend slid straight out, much to his horror. He later returned with Hexes.

  1. 25m. (crux) Up slab to base of roof, around roof and delicately up corner, moving slightly right in thinnest section, to belay ledge.
  2. 40m. As for pitch 2 of Foolscap.
  3. Either walk off leftwards or continue as for Foolscap.

FA: P.Bayne, M.Colyvan,(alt leads) G.Croft, Mar., 1981

20 Trad 65m
12 ** Caprice

Start: The next main line right of Total Control.

  1. 22m. Slightly leftward up slabs to wall, traverse right around nose and up ramp to small ledge at base of large corner (protection poor).
  2. 16m. Up corner and through short off-width to small ledge (crux).
  3. 25m. Up corner 8m. then traverse right into smaller corner and delicately up over bulges (loose rock) to base of wall.
  4. 40m. Up onto ledge, then up corner and onto wall on right,diagonally leftwards and up more easily to belay tree.
  5. 37m Scramble up slabs to trees.

FA: B.Birchall, G.Francis, (alt leads), 1981

17 Trad 140m

1.2. Dynomight Buttress 2 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Along the northern rim of the gorge are several granite crags. These can be seen from the various lookouts. The first one you will approach as you proceed along the gorge is Dynomight Buttress. No one has been able to find it since then so if you do let me know.


Eastward, along the north rim of the gorge to the first granite outcrop approx 200m past a large gully, descend a minor gully (marked with two pieces of tape on fence) about 20m then traverse east below upper tier. There are three obvious lines. Two have been completed.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Incremental Creep

Start; A superb layback crack, starts on a ledge 5m. up.

FA: Paul Bayne & Brian Birchall, 1982

20 Trad 15m
2 Dynomight

Start: The finger crack through steps.

12m. Up crack through the overhanging steps and join the line to the right at half height.

FA: Paul Bayne & Brian Birchall, 1982

20 Trad 12m

1.3. The Dragons Belly 13 routes in Crag

All Deep Water

Long/Lat: 151.730260, -30.672916

Unique Features And Strengths:

The only and best deep water soloing in New England


A slightly over hanging and vertical cliff with deep water soloing potential. All climbs and projects are all open to extensions and first ascents to promote development of this unique area.


Once you have hiked down to the gorge floor. Swim across the large pool heading downstream. or traverse around if you are a wizard. Once across the pool rock hop down the gorge for 10 minutes till you reach a large pool as big as the one you first swam across. This is The Dragons Belly. The total approach time should be about 1 hour. With a step strenuous walk in and out.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jeepers Creepers, Al Did This In Sneakers

Swim Start. Up onto the slab, head up to the obvious crack line that trends L to the top of the waterfall

FA: @alanezzy, 30th Jan

20 DWS 10m
2 Salmon Run

Swim Start. Head up rocky breaks RHS of Waterfall.

FA: @benyv, 2015

12 DWS 10m
3 ** Hungry Catfish, Frothing Dragon Traverse

Swim Start from the R of the bottom of the waterfall. Easy RH traverse around into the Slimy Eel & The Cesspool of Doom Cave. Traverse through a series of laybacks just above the water height. Where it goes, nobody knows!

Set by @benyv,@alanezzy,Dr. Phil

DWS Project 1m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 * White Lightening

Climb the white streaked slightly over hanging wall

FA: Mitch Stewart, 2015

DWS 10m
5 Stomach Acid

Climb starts 3 m right of White Lightening up obvious jugs to tricky blank section then up to crack.

FA: Ben Vincent, 2015

23 DWS 10m
6 Project 1

Start 2m right of stomach acid on large side pull

DWS Project 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Underbelly

Swim Start. Exit water at the slab, where you can afford a rest/dry down. Traverse L and low around blank buldge.

Set by Dr. Phil

DWS Project
8 ** 'Dis'-Location

Swim Start, up and out of the water at the base of the white streak, directly below the little rooflet. Up white streak to rooflet and traverse L and trend up and L to finish at Middle Earth Traverse

FA: Ben Vincent, 30th Jan

24 DWS 5m
9 * Dyno Access Ramp

Swim Start. From directly beneath the dyno, head up the ramp trending R until you get to the block at the end of T.T.

FA: @benyv, 2015

21 DWS 3m
10 Dyno-Soar

From the block at the end of T.T. down-climb ramp to the two obvious juggy pockets on the arete. Set yourself and then hit the massive dyno. You can see the nice flat ledge that you're aiming for from the block.

DWS Project 2m
11 *** Middle Earth Traverse

Starts from the block end of Thor's Traverse. Traverse down & L along sloping rail and mantle the Dyno Project finish. Traverse L along the large rocky bridge section until it ends. Some committing moves at this level above the large sloping slab bring you to a further rest and the traverse ends at the small shrub. Plenty of scope for extension!

FA: @benyv, 2015

23 DWS 50m
12 *** Middle Earth Traverse Extension

Continuing on from the hands free stance at the end of M.E.T (at the small bottlebrush shrub). Keep traversing L at the same height as M.E.T until you reach the blocky blank rooflet section with the precariously placed flake of death (you'll know it when you come to it). Move delicately L and through. Current extension finishes about 3m beyond this rooflet.

FA: @benyv, 30th Jan

23 DWS 30m
13 ** Thor's Traverse

The first DWS route set in the Dragons Belly. Traverse left along wall. Finish on top of large square block.

Set by @thorburey, 2015

20 DWS 20m

1.4. Flaky Buttress 4 routes in Crag

Trad and Aid

This is further east, approx. 2km along the gorge rim from the Dangars Falls car park, and is the first large buttress seen from the Dangars Falls lookouts. The climbs are described from left to right. The first climb you see is the roof problem Mystery Achievement.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mystery Achievement

Start: 6m right of the fence, at the left hand end (higher) of the buttress. A rightward trending crack through a roof.

10m Start in cave, climb crack through roof to top.

FA: J.Lattanzio,M.Colyvan,, 1980

20 Trad 10m
2 Fairy Choss

Start: The corner 30m right of Mystery Achievement.

  1. 30m Up chimney trending to off-width, to a sloping grassy ledge. Belay in open chimney.

  2. 30m Continue up corner to spacious grassy ledge, then up chimney to top.

FA: J.Lattanzio, E.Sharp, 1980

8 Trad 60m 2
3 Plain Sailing

Start: Corner crack about 20m. right of F.C.

Pleasant, well protected climbing up corner crack.

FA: B.Killip,A.Killip,R.Thomas, B.Birchall, 1978

14 Trad 45m
4 ** Bombora

Start: The impressive line up the wave-like rock to the right of Plain Sailing.

  1. 20m (crux) Straight up the crack till it no longer feels like 20. Some aid over the bulge and into the crack again. At the top move left onto small ledge.

  2. 25m Straight up the crack then easy wall to top.

FA: A.Stephens,G.Croft, 1982

20 M1 Aid 45m 2

1.5. Richard Cliff 4 routes in Area

All Trad

This is the next major cliff approx. half a kilometre past Flaky Buttress and about the same size. Named in honour of the famous Cliffy Ritchard and The Shadows!

The first climb is Eaves Dropper.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Eaves Dropper

Start: Half-way down the gully is a corner with two roofs. Scramble up to the large ledge at the base of the corner.

Bridge the corner and move around the roofs. Up the overhanging jam crack and an easier crack to the top.

FA: A.Stephens,R.Clark, (alt. leads) (one rest), 1981

FFA: A.Stephens, E.Sharp, 1981

19 Trad 30m
2 Aires and Graces

Start: Approx. half-way between Eaves Dropper and Nicotinus. Scramble up to the base of the right-angled corner.

  1. 20m (crux) Hard jamming up a corner to good ledge.

  2. 15m Up and around roof to base of fierce crack. Avoid the true line and traverse left to a large flake.

  3. 25m Up flake then easily up crack.

FA: R.Clark,A.Stephens,(alt. leads) (one rest), 1981

FFA: M.Colyvan,G.Pritchard, A.Stephens, 1981

19 Trad 60m 3
3 Lackluster Backbuster

Start: The direct line up from where Airs And Graces begins. Pitches 1,2 and 3 are great climbing. Pitch 4 is the price you have to pay.

  1. 20m As for 'Airs and Graces'

  2. 10m (crux) Continue straight up crack to belay where it ends.

  3. 10m Traverse right to mantle onto jutting block, then up corner to belay in large sloping alcove.

  4. 20m Through jam/offwidth bulge (three right hands needed) then up body chimney (struggle) to top.

FA: P.Bayne,A.Stephens, (alt. leads), 1982

23 Trad 60m 4
4 Nicotinus

Start: Near the right-hand end of the main cliff, an off-width chimney corner.

  1. 25m (crux) Off-width chimney leads to twin grooves. Take the left groove, belay on ledge.

  2. 25m (crux) Up crack to ledge. traverse left to main exit crack which leads to a large ledge.

  3. 15m Jam up sickle shaped crack (avoid the layback), move right and up to ledge. Scramble to top.

FA: R.Clark,A.Stephens, (alt leads), 1981

18 Trad 65m 3

1.6. Pritchard Cliff 1 route in Crag

All Trad

The green slabs on the right of Richard Cliff descent gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pariah

Start: An unpleasant excursion into the fringes of Botany. Solid for the grade.

Up the obvious corner/slab to a large ledge. Escape (walk) off left.

FA: G.Pritchard,(solo,flashed,ethically pure, on-sight), 1981

5 Trad 15m

1.7. Mihi Falls 7 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.734504, -30.694844


From the car park walk over to the information shelter. Behind the shelter a track leads off down across the river, out through the Dingo gate to a lookout over Dangars Falls, then continues on across country to Mihi Falls.

To get to the climbs you can either descend the gully near where the track ends (involves a short abseil), or walk around the rim to the top of the falls. From here go down the falls face by following the water chute down to the large slabs where the chute goes to the left of a large rock projection. The descent route goes to the right of this projection, then down a steep slab, bringing you to an abseil from a chockstone in a crack. You are now at the hidden pool which can be seen whilst descending the slabs, and is not part of the main falls. At the bottom of the falls is Pull Up. It goes straight up the falls face and can only be climbed when completely dry.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pull Up

Start: Interesting climb directly up the face of the falls. Some loose rock. Possible only in dry weather. Start at the chockstone to the left of the bottom of the crack and left-hand ledge of falls.

  1. 25m Right to base of crack, up crack then slab to belay.

  2. 20m (crux) Back down (?) slab to crack, up crack, then chimney and left at top of crack to stance.

  3. 33m. Traverse left along ledge, then up small wall onto slab, then tree belay.

  4. 33m. Traverse right across slab then up water chute.

FA: J.Davis, B.Harden, 1965

15 Trad 130m 4
2 Rumble Gully

Start: At the bottom of the second gully to the left of the pool below the major falls.

  1. 20m (crux) Up crack, then chimney and over the small overhang

  2. 40m Scramble up to knife-edge which hides the hidden pool.

  3. 12m Up wall above the hidden pool via crack.

  4. Walk up.

  5. 20m. Depending on the amount of water, take the overhanging chimney behind big rock in big pool. Alternatively, chimney to the right of the pool and traverse left.

FA: B.Harden,D.McLean,, 1965

10 Trad 90m 5
3 Variant Start To Rumble Gully

Start: In gully right of RG.

Up 7m then up right crack 10m traverse 5m (which way?) then after this wandering, over slight overhang to belay.

FA: D.McLean, (second did not follow), 1965

10 Trad 30m
4 Deception

Start: The crack between R.G. and Zig Zag.

Up the crack for 30m. (some rotten rock) over the bulge and either up the slabs to the right, or continue up the corner crack

FA: R.Dixon,B.Killip,B.Birchall,, 1974

14 Trad 40m
5 Zig Zag

Start: An appropriate name. In the chimney Start: A crack on a wall in the watercourse above the lower pool, to the right of Deception. below the pool.

Up narrow chimney, then traverse right, along ledge, then up, traverse left, then right and up line of weakness. Traverse left and scramble to top.

FA: D.McLean, B.Harden, 1965

11 Trad 33m
6 Calculated Thrill

Start: On the large wall downstream from the main falls. The huge (Eternity) crack in the wall.

Hands to easy off-width. Large gear (Tubes if you have them) is necessary.

  1. 47m (crux) A short hand traverse then straight up the crack.

  2. 25m. Traverse left, joining up with Pitch 2 of Bird On A Wire. Belay in corner.

  3. 20m Straight up as for Pitch 3 of Bird On A Wire, then scramble out to top of gorge.

FA: A.Stephens,E.Sharp (alt. leads),E.Sharp,(alt leads), 1981

16 Trad 92m 3
7 Bird On A Wire

Start: A Leonard Cohen classic. On the downstream side of the lower pinnacle, approx 50m downstream from the waterfall.

  1. 35m. Up the line of corners to the base of a ramp.

  2. 25m. A rising traverse to the left along the ramp.

  3. 20m (crux) Up the right-hand crack/chimney, scramble up the groove and then some mank for 70m.

FA: R.Dixon,A.Stephens,(alt leads), C.May, 1975

16 Trad 90m 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5 Pariah Trad 15m 1.6. Pritchard Cliff
8 Fairy Choss Trad 60m 2 1.4. Flaky Buttress
9 Toecap Variant Trad 52m 1.1. Dangars Falls
10 Kneecap Trad 80m 1.1. Dangars Falls
Rumble Gully Trad 90m 5 1.7. Mihi Falls
Variant Start To Rumble Gully Trad 30m 1.7. Mihi Falls
11 Dreadnought Trad 150m 1.1. Dangars Falls
Zig Zag Trad 33m 1.7. Mihi Falls
12 Copperhead Trad 20m 1.1. Dangars Falls
Nightcap Trad 75m 1.1. Dangars Falls
Salmon Run DWS 10m 1.3. The Dragons Belly
13 Slippery When Wet Trad 170m 1.1. Dangars Falls
Toecap Trad 200m 1.1. Dangars Falls
14 ** Action Trad 150m 1.1. Dangars Falls
Plain Sailing Trad 45m 1.4. Flaky Buttress
Deception Trad 40m 1.7. Mihi Falls
15 Pull Up Trad 130m 4 1.7. Mihi Falls
16 ** Goldfinger Trad 200m 1.1. Dangars Falls
Bird On A Wire Trad 90m 3 1.7. Mihi Falls
Calculated Thrill Trad 92m 3 1.7. Mihi Falls
17 ** Caprice Trad 140m 1.1. Dangars Falls
18 Foolscap Trad 230m 1.1. Dangars Falls
Nicotinus Trad 65m 3 1.5. Richard Cliff
19 Aires and Graces Trad 60m 3 1.5. Richard Cliff
Eaves Dropper Trad 30m 1.5. Richard Cliff
20 Total Control Trad 65m 1.1. Dangars Falls
Dynomight Trad 12m 1.2. Dynomight Buttress
Incremental Creep Trad 15m 1.2. Dynomight Buttress
Jeepers Creepers, Al Did This In Sneakers DWS 10m 1.3. The Dragons Belly
** Thor's Traverse DWS 20m 1.3. The Dragons Belly
Mystery Achievement Trad 10m 1.4. Flaky Buttress
20 M1 ** Bombora Aid 45m 2 1.4. Flaky Buttress
21 * Dyno Access Ramp DWS 3m 1.3. The Dragons Belly
23 *** Middle Earth Traverse DWS 50m 1.3. The Dragons Belly
*** Middle Earth Traverse Extension DWS 30m 1.3. The Dragons Belly
Stomach Acid DWS 10m 1.3. The Dragons Belly
Lackluster Backbuster Trad 60m 4 1.5. Richard Cliff
24 ** 'Dis'-Location DWS 5m 1.3. The Dragons Belly
? Dyno-Soar DWS Project 2m 1.3. The Dragons Belly
** Hungry Catfish, Frothing Dragon Traverse DWS Project 1m 1.3. The Dragons Belly
Project 1 DWS Project 10m 1.3. The Dragons Belly
Underbelly DWS Project 1.3. The Dragons Belly
* White Lightening DWS 10m 1.3. The Dragons Belly