A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Darlington 70 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 116.102735, -31.942251

Unique Features And Strengths:

A nice crag in beautiful bushland makes this an ideal place to hangout with friends on weekends.

Description:

Darlington Boulders contains a large amount of sport climbing on boulders. The climbs are generally short and technical.

Approach:

Parking is on Nelson Road next to the Darlington Estate Winery Entrance, there are two locked gates here.

Walk past the gate located at the end of the road and walk along the 4WD track for approximately 1.8km.

After approximately 1.8km you will come across a small cairn in a small clearing on the left side of the road. From the cairn follow the faint trail through the bush for 100m or so. This trail will take you to the "Ironing board", "Solstice" and "Pyramid"" boulders. All other boulders can easily be found from here.

1.1. Brutus Boulder 1 route in Unknown

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Brutus 21 Trad 7m

1.2. Deception Area 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blur 19 Unknown 6m
2 Ticked 23 Unknown 7m, 1
3 * Deception 20 Mixed 12m, 3
4 Cold Start 12 Unknown 10m
5 Rudi Trains For Makulu

FA: Rudolf Denk, 1997

16 Trad 12m
6 * Axial Order 23 Mixed 14m, 1
7 ** Axial Disorder 22 Mixed 14m, 2
8 I'm Spartacus 16 Trad 11m
9 Fist Full of Friends 16 Trad 11m

1.3. Pyramid Boulder East 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 116.102880, -31.943074

Description:

This is the largest boulder in the area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Enter The Aardvark

Thin crack on the south side of the boulder. Small gear.

19 Trad 8m
2 Irish Stew

Start left of Pogue Mahone. Climb the arête.

17 Sport 12m, 2
3 Pogue Mahone 16 Mixed 12m, 1
4 ** Fryaway

The easy crack. Plenty of gear.

13 Trad 13m
5 Andy Pandy

Start as for Fryaway. Climb to the right of the Fryaway crack.

17 Trad 13m
6 Teddy 18 Trad 13m
7 * P.L.F. 25 Sport 13m, 2
8 Face to Face 18 Unknown 16m

1.4. Pyramid Boulder North 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Helter Swelter 24 Sport 14m
2 No Comment

Start 3m to the right of Helter Swelter.

Sport 4

1.5. Solstice Boulder 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

located above/next to the Pyramid Boulder. Trad anchors at top.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Born of Boredom

Left arête of the boulder.

16 Sport 10m, 2
2 The Rack 17 Sport 10m, 1
3 * Short Time 22 Sport 10m, 2
4 * Solstice 21 Sport 10m, 2
5 Solstice Traverse

Start at Solstice and traverse right past two RB. Finish on top.

21 Sport 12m, 2
6 Mixed Emotions 24 Sport 10m, 3

1.6. The Ironing Board 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The boulder shaped like an ironing board.

Approach:

Located slightly uphill from the Pyramid Boulder next to the Solstice boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Licenced to Drill

Climb the left arête of the boulder. 3 bolts and a fixed belay.

22 Sport 10m, 3

1.7. The Mushroom 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
All Sport
Approach:

Approximately 15m east of the Pyramid Boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ryobi Dreaming 22 Sport 7m

1.8. The Slot Machine 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The 10m high boulder with a thin crack up the middle.

Approach:

Approximately 50m north from the Pyramid Boulder. Follow the faint track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Short 'n' Sweet 16 Trad 7m
2 Cerberus

Arête left of slot machine. Very bad protection.

20 X Trad 8m
3 ** Slot Machine

Follow the thin crack to the tope. Crux is about half way up. Small gear.

19 Trad 11m
4 Prism

This route is on the West Boulder. See the "West Boulder".

16 Trad 6m
5 Bugstagut 19 Trad 6m

1.9. West Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

A 6 metre high boulder

Approach:

This is the boulder approximately 80 metres uphill and to the north-west from the slot machine boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blur 19 Trad 6m
2 Prism 16 Trad 6m

1.10. The Eastern Slabs 19 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 116.103214, -31.941947

Description:

Large slab to the north east of the main area.

Approach:

Approximately 80m north-east from the Slot Machine Boulder. From Slot Machine cross the creek (usually dry in summer) and walk up hill following the faint track to the slab.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Easy Does It 11 Trad 12m
2 Blackhead 20 Mixed 16m, 1
3 Wishful Thinking 13 Unknown 16m
4 Anticipation 14 Unknown 12m
5 Thin Ice 17 Trad 16m
6 Ice Breaker 17 Trad 17m
7 Bongo Man

Start below the large flake (takes cams). Climb over the flake past a bolt to the DBB at the top.

16 Mixed 15m, 1
8 ** Calling the Savage 21 Sport 17m, 3
9 Wild Honey Pie

Starts to the right of the gulley. Follow 3 fixed hangers to the DBB at the top.

16 Sport 15m, 3
10 * Lucky Legs

Starts to the right of Wild Honey Pie. 3 bolts to a DBB.

17 Sport 11m, 3
11 * This Monkey is Going to Heaven

FA: Ross Weiter, Jon Gregg

23 Sport 23m, 2
12 Stomping Ground 18 Sport 16m, 2
13 * Stolen Pride 22 Sport 16m, 3
14 *** Bare Necessities

Start to the right of the fallen tree that is resting on the face of the eastern slabs. Follow 2 fixed hangers and 1 carrot bolt to a rusty DBB.

A newer set of lower-offs can be found a few metres to the right of the rusty DBB.

21 Sport 16m, 3
15 ** Anorexia Crimposa

Start to the right of Bare necessities. Follow 4 fixed hangers to a rusty DDB.

A newer lower-off can be found a few metres to the right of the rusty DBB.

23 Sport 15m, 4
16 * Captain Funkmayer's Hot Pink Acid Jazz Dream

Start approximately four metres to the right of Anorexia Crimposa. Follow the crimps past four carrot bolts to a rusty DDB.

A newer set of lower offs can be found a few metres to the right of the rusty DDB.

17 Sport 15m, 4
17 Plastic Surgery Details

Start as for CFHPAJD and go right to follow the water runnel to the DDB. It is possible to use a couple of the bolts from Turpentine.

FA: Ross Weiter, Jon Gregg

12 Trad 15m
18 * Turpentine

Start to the right of PSD. Follow 3 BRs past a flake to the DBB at the top.

FA: Jon Gregg, Ross Weiter

16 Sport 15m, 3
19 Slippery When Wet

FA: Jon Gregg, Ross Weiter

15 Unknown 16m

1.11. Gravitation Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 116.103570, -31.942296

Description:

Small boulder

Approach:

From the southern point of the eastern slabs go uphill for approximately 25m.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Gravitation

The left arête. One fixed hanger high on the route.

20 Sport 6m, 1
2 * True Glue 18 Sport 6m, 2

1.12. Ridge Top Boulder 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.104015, -31.942077

Approach:

Follow the trail from the southern end of the eastern slabs past the gravitation boulder and continue for approximately 100m

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 This Big 22 Unknown 5m
2 The Aesthetics of Risk 14 Unknown 8m
3 Above and Beyond 15 Unknown 5m
4 Parting Company 20 Unknown 6m
5 * Burning Sensations Where the Sun Don't Shine

This route can be found in the upper Darlington area. See "Upper Darlington" for route.

19 Sport 8m
6 ** Bodyguard of Lies

This route can be found in the upper Darlington area. For description see "Upper Darlington".

17 Sport 8m

1.13. Upper Darlington 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 116.104123, -31.939657

Description:

Upper Darlington is north east of the eastern slabs.

Small interesting boulders. Great spot to stay out of the sun. The boulders are in two sections; the Stone Masons' Hall and the Stonehenge area.

The Stone Masons' hall is the lower set of boulders. A chasm is where most of the routes can be found.

The Stonehenge area is the upper set of boulder approximately 50m up from the Stonemasons' Hall.

1.13.1. Stone Masons' Hall 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Sport and Unknown
Description:

The lower set of boulders.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Trading While insolvent

Climb on the left end of chasm.

14 Sport 8m, 2
2 * Burning Sensations Where The Sun Don't Shine 19 Sport 8m, 3
3 Smoking Child

The climb on the right end of the chasm.

The first bolt is shared with a route on the left. Follow 2 BRs on the right to the top.

16 Sport 8m, 3
4 Escape the Snape

Directly behind smoking child.

12 Unknown 6m
5 It's Not A Burn It's A Rash 12 Unknown 6m

1.13.2. Stonehenge 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The upper set of boulders.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Menhir Arete

the left arête on the menhir (upright stone).

23 Sport 8m, 3
2 ** Bodyguard Of Lies

Climb the face of the menhir following the 3 carrot bolts to the top.

The DBB at the top is the two carrot bolts located on the back of the boulder.

17 Sport 8m, 3
3 Snitch Slab 16 Sport 8m, 2

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
11 Easy Does It Trad 12m 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
12 Cold Start Unknown 10m 1.2. Deception Area
Plastic Surgery Details Trad 15m 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
Escape the Snape Unknown 6m 1.13.1. Stone Masons' Hall
It's Not A Burn It's A Rash Unknown 6m 1.13.1. Stone Masons' Hall
13 ** Fryaway Trad 13m 1.3. Pyramid Boulder East
Wishful Thinking Unknown 16m 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
14 Anticipation Unknown 12m 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
The Aesthetics of Risk Unknown 8m 1.12. Ridge Top Boulder
Trading While insolvent Sport 8m, 2 1.13.1. Stone Masons' Hall
15 Slippery When Wet Unknown 16m 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
Above and Beyond Unknown 5m 1.12. Ridge Top Boulder
16 Fist Full of Friends Trad 11m 1.2. Deception Area
I'm Spartacus Trad 11m 1.2. Deception Area
Rudi Trains For Makulu Trad 12m 1.2. Deception Area
Pogue Mahone Mixed 12m, 1 1.3. Pyramid Boulder East
Born of Boredom Sport 10m, 2 1.5. Solstice Boulder
Prism Trad 6m 1.8. The Slot Machine
Short 'n' Sweet Trad 7m 1.8. The Slot Machine
Prism Trad 6m 1.9. West Boulder
Bongo Man Mixed 15m, 1 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
* Turpentine Sport 15m, 3 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
Wild Honey Pie Sport 15m, 3 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
Smoking Child Sport 8m, 3 1.13.1. Stone Masons' Hall
Snitch Slab Sport 8m, 2 1.13.2. Stonehenge
17 Andy Pandy Trad 13m 1.3. Pyramid Boulder East
Irish Stew Sport 12m, 2 1.3. Pyramid Boulder East
The Rack Sport 10m, 1 1.5. Solstice Boulder
* Captain Funkmayer's Hot Pink Acid Jazz Dream Sport 15m, 4 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
Ice Breaker Trad 17m 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
* Lucky Legs Sport 11m, 3 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
Thin Ice Trad 16m 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
** Bodyguard of Lies Sport 8m 1.12. Ridge Top Boulder
** Bodyguard Of Lies Sport 8m, 3 1.13.2. Stonehenge
18 Face to Face Unknown 16m 1.3. Pyramid Boulder East
Teddy Trad 13m 1.3. Pyramid Boulder East
Stomping Ground Sport 16m, 2 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
* True Glue Sport 6m, 2 1.11. Gravitation Boulder
19 Blur Unknown 6m 1.2. Deception Area
Enter The Aardvark Trad 8m 1.3. Pyramid Boulder East
Bugstagut Trad 6m 1.8. The Slot Machine
** Slot Machine Trad 11m 1.8. The Slot Machine
Blur Trad 6m 1.9. West Boulder
* Burning Sensations Where the Sun Don't Shine Sport 8m 1.12. Ridge Top Boulder
* Burning Sensations Where The Sun Don't Shine Sport 8m, 3 1.13.1. Stone Masons' Hall
20 * Deception Mixed 12m, 3 1.2. Deception Area
Blackhead Mixed 16m, 1 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
* Gravitation Sport 6m, 1 1.11. Gravitation Boulder
Parting Company Unknown 6m 1.12. Ridge Top Boulder
20 X Cerberus Trad 8m 1.8. The Slot Machine
21 Brutus Trad 7m 1.1. Brutus Boulder
* Solstice Sport 10m, 2 1.5. Solstice Boulder
Solstice Traverse Sport 12m, 2 1.5. Solstice Boulder
*** Bare Necessities Sport 16m, 3 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
** Calling the Savage Sport 17m, 3 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
22 ** Axial Disorder Mixed 14m, 2 1.2. Deception Area
* Short Time Sport 10m, 2 1.5. Solstice Boulder
Licenced to Drill Sport 10m, 3 1.6. The Ironing Board
Ryobi Dreaming Sport 7m 1.7. The Mushroom
* Stolen Pride Sport 16m, 3 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
This Big Unknown 5m 1.12. Ridge Top Boulder
23 * Axial Order Mixed 14m, 1 1.2. Deception Area
Ticked Unknown 7m, 1 1.2. Deception Area
** Anorexia Crimposa Sport 15m, 4 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
* This Monkey is Going to Heaven Sport 23m, 2 1.10. The Eastern Slabs
* Menhir Arete Sport 8m, 3 1.13.2. Stonehenge
24 *** Helter Swelter Sport 14m 1.4. Pyramid Boulder North
Mixed Emotions Sport 10m, 3 1.5. Solstice Boulder
25 * P.L.F. Sport 13m, 2 1.3. Pyramid Boulder East
? No Comment Sport 4 1.4. Pyramid Boulder North