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Table of contents

1. Darlington 59 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 116.102735, -31.942251

Unique Features And Strengths:

A nice crag in beautiful bushland makes this an ideal place to hangout with friends on weekends.

Description:

Darlington Boulders contains a large amount of sport climbing on boulders. The climbs are generally short and technical. Avoid this place during the hot months as the heat and ticks are unpleasant

Approach:

Parking is on Nelson Road next to the Darlington Estate Winery Entrance, there are two locked white gates here.

Walk past the white gate located at the end of the road and walk along the 4WD track for approximately 1.8km.

After approximately 1.8km you will come across a small cairn in a small clearing on the left side of the road. From the cairn follow the faint trail through the bush for 100m or so. This trail will take you to the "Ironing board", "Solstice" and "Pyramid"" boulders. All other boulders can easily be found from here.

1.1. Brutus Boulder 1 route in Unknown

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Brutus 21Trad 7m

1.2. Deception Area 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blur 19Unknown 6m
2 Ticked 23Unknown 7m, 1
3 Deception 20Mixed 12m, 3
4 Cold Start 12Unknown 10m
5 Rudi Trains For Makulu

FA: Rudolf Denk, 1997

16Trad 12m
6 * Axial Order 23Mixed 14m, 1
7 ** Axial Disorder 22Mixed 14m, 2
8 I'm Spartacus 16Trad 11m
9 Fist Full of Friends 16Trad 11m

1.3. Pyramid Boulder East 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 116.102880, -31.943074

Description:

This is the largest boulder in the area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Enter The Aardvark

Thin crack on the south side of the boulder. Small gear.

19Trad 8m
2 Irish Stew

Start left of Pogue Mahone. Climb the arête.

17Sport 12m, 2
3 Pogue Mahone 16Mixed 12m, 1
4 * Fryaway

The easy crack. Plenty of gear.

13Trad 13m
5 Andy Pandy

Start as for Fryaway. Climb to the right of the Fryaway crack.

17Trad 13m
6 Teddy 18Trad 13m
7 * P.L.F. 25Sport 13m, 2
8 Face to Face 18Unknown 16m

1.4. Pyramid Boulder North 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Helter Swelter 24Sport 14m
2 No Comment

Start 3m to the right of Helter Swelter.

Sport 4

1.5. Solstice Boulder 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

located above/next to the Pyramid Boulder. Trad anchors at top.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Born of Boredom

Left arête of the boulder.

16Sport 10m, 2
2 The Rack 17Sport 10m, 1
3 * Short Time 22Sport 10m, 2
4 * Solstice 21Sport 10m, 2
5 Solstice Traverse

Start at Solstice and traverse right past two RB. Finish on top.

21Sport 12m, 2
6 Mixed Emotions 24Sport 10m, 3

1.6. The Ironing Board 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The boulder shaped like an ironing board.

Approach:

Located slightly uphill from the Pyramid Boulder next to the Solstice boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Licenced to Drill

Climb the left arête of the boulder. 3 bolts and a fixed belay.

22Sport 10m, 3

1.7. The Mushroom 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Approach:

Approximately 15m east of the Pyramid Boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ryobi Dreaming 22Sport 7m

1.8. The Slot Machine 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad
Description:

The 10m high boulder with a thin crack up the middle.

Approach:

Approximately 50m north from the Pyramid Boulder. Follow the faint track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Short 'n' Sweet 16Unknown 7m
2 Cerberus

Arête left of slot machine. Very bad protection.

20 XTrad 8m
3 ** Slot Machine

Follow the thin crack to the tope. Crux is about half way up. Small gear.

19Trad 11m
4 Prism 16Unknown 6m
5 Bugstagut 19Unknown 6m

1.9. The Eastern Slabs 18 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 116.103214, -31.941947

Description:

Large slab to the north east of the main area.

Approach:

Approximately 80m north-east from the Slot Machine Boulder. From Slot Machine cross the creek (usually dry in summer) and walk up hill following the faint track to the slab.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Easy Does It 11Trad 12m
2 Blackhead 20Mixed 16m, 1
3 Wishful Thinking 13Unknown 16m
4 Anticipation 14Unknown 12m
5 Thin Ice 17Trad 16m
6 Ice Breaker 17Trad 17m
7 Bongo Man

Start below the large flake (takes cams). Climb over the flake past a bolt to the DBB at the top.

16Mixed 15m, 1
8 * Calling the Savage 21Sport 17m, 3
9 Wild Honey Pie

Starts to the right of the gulley. Follow 3 fixed hangers to the DBB at the top.

16Sport 15m, 3
10 * Lucky Legs

Starts to the right of Wild Honey Pie. 3 bolts to a DBB.

17Sport 11m, 3
11 * This Monkey is Going to Heaven

FA: Ross Weiter, Jon Gregg

23Sport 23m, 2
12 Stomping Ground 18Sport 16m, 2
13 * Stolen Pride 22Sport 16m, 3
14 *** Bare Necessities 22Sport 16m, 3
15 ** Captain Funkmayer's Hot Pink Acid Jazz Dream 17Sport 16m, 3
16 Plastic Surgery Details

FA: Ross Weiter, Jon Gregg

12Unknown 15m
17 * Turpentine

FA: Jon Gregg, Ross Weiter

16Sport 15m, 3
18 Slippery When Wet

FA: Jon Gregg, Ross Weiter

15Unknown 16m

1.10. Gravitation Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Small boulder

Approach:

From the southern point of the eastern slabs go uphill for approximately 25m.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Gravitation

The left arête.

20Sport 6m, 1
2 * True Glue 18Sport 6m, 2

1.11. Upper Darlington 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 This Big 22Unknown 5m
2 The Aesthetics of Risk 14Unknown 8m
3 Above and Beyond 15Unknown 5m
4 Parting Company 20Unknown 6m
5 * Burning Sensations Where the Sun Don't Shine 19Sport 8m
6 ** Bodyguard of Lies 17Sport 8m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
11 Easy Does It Trad 12m 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
12 Cold Start Unknown 10m 1.2. Deception Area
Plastic Surgery Details Unknown 15m 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
13 * Fryaway Trad 13m 1.3. Pyramid Boulder East
Wishful Thinking Unknown 16m 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
14 Anticipation Unknown 12m 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
The Aesthetics of Risk Unknown 8m 1.11. Upper Darlington
15 Slippery When Wet Unknown 16m 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
Above and Beyond Unknown 5m 1.11. Upper Darlington
16 Fist Full of Friends Trad 11m 1.2. Deception Area
I'm Spartacus Trad 11m 1.2. Deception Area
Rudi Trains For Makulu Trad 12m 1.2. Deception Area
Pogue Mahone Mixed 12m, 1 1.3. Pyramid Boulder East
Born of Boredom Sport 10m, 2 1.5. Solstice Boulder
Prism Unknown 6m 1.8. The Slot Machine
Short 'n' Sweet Unknown 7m 1.8. The Slot Machine
Bongo Man Mixed 15m, 1 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
* Turpentine Sport 15m, 3 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
Wild Honey Pie Sport 15m, 3 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
17 Andy Pandy Trad 13m 1.3. Pyramid Boulder East
Irish Stew Sport 12m, 2 1.3. Pyramid Boulder East
The Rack Sport 10m, 1 1.5. Solstice Boulder
** Captain Funkmayer's Hot Pink Acid Jazz Dream Sport 16m, 3 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
Ice Breaker Trad 17m 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
* Lucky Legs Sport 11m, 3 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
Thin Ice Trad 16m 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
** Bodyguard of Lies Sport 8m 1.11. Upper Darlington
18 Face to Face Unknown 16m 1.3. Pyramid Boulder East
Teddy Trad 13m 1.3. Pyramid Boulder East
Stomping Ground Sport 16m, 2 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
* True Glue Sport 6m, 2 1.10. Gravitation Boulder
19 Blur Unknown 6m 1.2. Deception Area
Enter The Aardvark Trad 8m 1.3. Pyramid Boulder East
Bugstagut Unknown 6m 1.8. The Slot Machine
** Slot Machine Trad 11m 1.8. The Slot Machine
* Burning Sensations Where the Sun Don't Shine Sport 8m 1.11. Upper Darlington
20 Deception Mixed 12m, 3 1.2. Deception Area
Cerberus Trad 8m 1.8. The Slot Machine
Blackhead Mixed 16m, 1 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
* Gravitation Sport 6m, 1 1.10. Gravitation Boulder
Parting Company Unknown 6m 1.11. Upper Darlington
21 Brutus Trad 7m 1.1. Brutus Boulder
* Solstice Sport 10m, 2 1.5. Solstice Boulder
Solstice Traverse Sport 12m, 2 1.5. Solstice Boulder
* Calling the Savage Sport 17m, 3 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
22 ** Axial Disorder Mixed 14m, 2 1.2. Deception Area
* Short Time Sport 10m, 2 1.5. Solstice Boulder
Licenced to Drill Sport 10m, 3 1.6. The Ironing Board
Ryobi Dreaming Sport 7m 1.7. The Mushroom
*** Bare Necessities Sport 16m, 3 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
* Stolen Pride Sport 16m, 3 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
This Big Unknown 5m 1.11. Upper Darlington
23 * Axial Order Mixed 14m, 1 1.2. Deception Area
Ticked Unknown 7m, 1 1.2. Deception Area
* This Monkey is Going to Heaven Sport 23m, 2 1.9. The Eastern Slabs
24 *** Helter Swelter Sport 14m 1.4. Pyramid Boulder North
Mixed Emotions Sport 10m, 3 1.5. Solstice Boulder
25 * P.L.F. Sport 13m, 2 1.3. Pyramid Boulder East
? No Comment Sport 4 1.4. Pyramid Boulder North