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Description

Hawkesbury sandstone at it's best. 'Steep', water polished and long. Shame about the current problematic access through private property (permission required) - or a rather epic 4.5km walk along fire roads from above. Cliff faces north-east, and in summer gets into total shade by 2pm. The big plus is that the crag is very steep and has major corners which block much of the sun, so you can climb here all day in summer. The crag is famous for the tilted slopers which turn an easy looking route into total desperation!

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 * You Don't Beat The River Sport 17m, 6

Interesting Taipan-bridge start to gain break. Up onto slab which is continually engaging all the way to the clip+lower anchors.

2

Start as for YDBTR to break, then move R clipping a FH to big flake feature. Climb the slab above, always tending R past several UB's, finishing through bulge (sure, use the jugs on the right) to chain anchor.

3
25 *** Buck Yeager Sport 15m, 6

Start at the single bolt belay on large ledge. Up with juggy flakes past FH's to sit-down rest. Traverse L on swirly stone before blasting up with authority. Traverse back R under rearing headwall. Mind blowing finale to uber finishing horn jug. Lower-off.

5
24 * Drop Them Pants Sport 15m, 6

Deep reachy pockets to start, then desperate black slab. Finish with exciting haul past horizontal break to single monster u-bolt anchor half way up the cliff.

Start: Starts two metre left of 'Swampy Cow Corner' below black wall.

6
(Marathon Man - proj) Sport 26m, 10

The left arete on the Sloper Central wall. The longest route on the crag. Easy for a while then punchy to small ledge. Jug out bulge and finish up final epic wall on unlikely holds to exciting finish onto ledge. Stay off until complete.

7
20 ** Swampy Cow Corner Sport 20m, 7

Stylish major right facing corner in middle of crag.

8
22 * Sea Of Slopers Sport 20m, 7

Start as for 'Swampy Cow Corner'. At 2nd bolt trend right onto orange wall. Weave up this trying to locate anything that might be actually usable amongst the sea of slopers. Finish at double rings under roof.

9
21 *** Sea of Sleep Unknown 20m
10
24 ** Siesta Sport 22m, 8

Sustained and independent line just to the the right of Sea of Slopes, with a punchy lip traversing start on pockets and a long sustained wall above. Don't cheat by finishing at Sea of Slopes anchors - the real finish is right and above the roof (hidden bolt) on the black slab.

12
21 Purty Lips LHV Unknown 15m

As for PL to first big scoop on left wall. Hop in, dyno/reach break, monkey horizontally left and finish up crack in arete. Not yet equipped.

FA: FTRA Lee Cujes, 2000

13
18 * Purty Lips Sport 12m, 5

Right facing orange corner with capped roof. From ground, up easy angle slab passing one UB. Then stem up corner to clip+lower station under roof.

FA: 2009

14
19 * Squeal Like A Pig Sport 16m, 6

Come in from the right to start. Very easy climbing up juggy wall to a tricky sloper move just under the roof (well protected) to break. Avoid the roof on it's right using good slots. Up wall above to tree anchor (rope & mallion).

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Purty Lips'

FA: 2009

15
17 * Manta Ray Sport 18m, 5

A long atmospheric jug haul up a giant flake feature.

Start: Walk 100m right of Squeal Like a Pig past numerous walls and caves to find this route.

16
Project - Chubby Boy Unknown 17m, 8

Start: 'Steep' cave climbing 3m right of 'Buck Yeager'. Impressive dyno half way up and desperate mantle to finish. Stay off until complete.

17

Only partially equipped (FH & UB). Note: need grinder (cutting disc), putty, green alien, then come in from the top to finish. Keep off.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Siesta'.

18
21 *** Sea of Sleep - LINK-UP Sport 20m, 8

Climbs the best rock on the wall without too many weird mantle moves. Start as for Sea of Slopes to 3rd bolt. Traverse right to 'Siesta' - up this past several bolts to the 'ledge' where you can traverse left to the anchors above Sea of Slopes.

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