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Table of contents

1. Deliverance 18 routes in Crag

Sport and Unknown
Description:© (nmonteith)

Hawkesbury sandstone at it's best. 'Steep', water polished and long. Shame about the current problematic access through private property (permission required) - or a rather epic 4.5km walk along fire roads from above. Cliff faces north-east, and in summer gets into total shade by 2pm. The big plus is that the crag is very steep and has major corners which block much of the sun, so you can climb here all day in summer. The crag is famous for the tilted slopers which turn an easy looking route into total desperation!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * You Don't Beat The River

Interesting Taipan-bridge start to gain break. Up onto slab which is continually engaging all the way to the clip+lower anchors.

22 Sport 17m, 6
2 Who's a Pickin' That Banjer?

Start as for YDBTR to break, then move R clipping a FH to big flake feature. Climb the slab above, always tending R past several UB's, finishing through bulge (sure, use the jugs on the right) to chain anchor.

22 Sport 18m, 6
3 *** Buck Yeager

Start at the single bolt belay on large ledge. Up with juggy flakes past FH's to sit-down rest. Traverse L on swirly stone before blasting up with authority. Traverse back R under rearing headwall. Mind blowing finale to uber finishing horn jug. Lower-off.

25 Sport 15m, 6
4 (Chubby Boy - Neil project) Unknown
5 * Drop Them Pants

Deep reachy pockets to start, then desperate black slab. Finish with exciting haul past horizontal break to single monster u-bolt anchor half way up the cliff.

Start: Starts two metre left of 'Swampy Cow Corner' below black wall.

24 Sport 15m, 6
6 (Marathon Man - proj)

The left arete on the Sloper Central wall. The longest route on the crag. Easy for a while then punchy to small ledge. Jug out bulge and finish up final epic wall on unlikely holds to exciting finish onto ledge. Stay off until complete.

Sport 26m, 10
7 ** Swampy Cow Corner

Stylish major right facing corner in middle of crag.

20 Sport 20m, 7
8 * Sea Of Slopers

Start as for 'Swampy Cow Corner'. At 2nd bolt trend right onto orange wall. Weave up this trying to locate anything that might be actually usable amongst the sea of slopers. Finish at double rings under roof.

22 Sport 20m, 7
9 *** Sea of Sleep 21 Unknown 20m
10 ** Siesta

Sustained and independent line just to the the right of Sea of Slopes, with a punchy lip traversing start on pockets and a long sustained wall above. Don't cheat by finishing at Sea of Slopes anchors - the real finish is right and above the roof (hidden bolt) on the black slab.

24 Sport 22m, 8
11 (Project - Lee) Unknown
12 Purty Lips LHV

As for PL to first big scoop on left wall. Hop in, dyno/reach break, monkey horizontally left and finish up crack in arete. Not yet equipped.

FA: FTRA Lee Cujes, 2000

21 Unknown 15m
13 * Purty Lips

Right facing orange corner with capped roof. From ground, up easy angle slab passing one UB. Then stem up corner to clip+lower station under roof.

FA: 2009

18 Sport 12m, 5
14 * Squeal Like A Pig

Come in from the right to start. Very easy climbing up juggy wall to a tricky sloper move just under the roof (well protected) to break. Avoid the roof on it's right using good slots. Up wall above to tree anchor (rope & mallion).

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Purty Lips'

FA: 2009

19 Sport 16m, 6
15 * Manta Ray

A long atmospheric jug haul up a giant flake feature.

Start: Walk 100m right of Squeal Like a Pig past numerous walls and caves to find this route.

17 Sport 18m, 5
16 Project - Chubby Boy

Start: 'Steep' cave climbing 3m right of 'Buck Yeager'. Impressive dyno half way up and desperate mantle to finish. Stay off until complete.

Unknown 17m, 8
17 Lee - Project

Only partially equipped (FH & UB). Note: need grinder (cutting disc), putty, green alien, then come in from the top to finish. Keep off.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Siesta'.

18 *** Sea of Sleep - LINK-UP

Climbs the best rock on the wall without too many weird mantle moves. Start as for Sea of Slopes to 3rd bolt. Traverse right to 'Siesta' - up this past several bolts to the 'ledge' where you can traverse left to the anchors above Sea of Slopes.

21 Sport 20m, 8

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
17 * Manta Ray Sport 18m, 5
18 * Purty Lips Sport 12m, 5
19 * Squeal Like A Pig Sport 16m, 6
20 ** Swampy Cow Corner Sport 20m, 7
21 Purty Lips LHV Unknown 15m
*** Sea of Sleep Unknown 20m
*** Sea of Sleep - LINK-UP Sport 20m, 8
22 * Sea Of Slopers Sport 20m, 7
Who's a Pickin' That Banjer? Sport 18m, 6
* You Don't Beat The River Sport 17m, 6
24 * Drop Them Pants Sport 15m, 6
** Siesta Sport 22m, 8
25 *** Buck Yeager Sport 15m, 6
? (Chubby Boy - Neil project) Unknown
(Marathon Man - proj) Sport 26m, 10
(Project - Lee) Unknown
Lee - Project Unknown
Project - Chubby Boy Unknown 17m, 8