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Summary

The large granite dome of Monkey Rock allows superb views along the south coast.

Description

Most traditional lines have been done, but there is vast potential for new sport routes. A full rack of wires and cams is required.

Approach

Head west out of Denmark along Ocean Beach Road and turn right onto Lights Road after 6km. Continue for another 4km and park in parking area on right side of road.

From carpark, a well marked walking trail leads to the summit lookout.

Routes

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Grade Route

West Face

From the approach track on the northern side of the summit, skirt around base of dome until the gully on the west face is reached. Routes are left to right (north to south).

1
14 * Le Mure Trad 15m

Start at left side of West Face. Traverse left for 3m above bushes then diagonally up and rightwards for 10m. FA was a solo.

FA: A. Roilo, 1989

2
15 Cheeta Trad 25m

Starts 20m right of Le Mure and 2m left of chimney. Climb slightly overhanging wall via the holes up to a good ledge. Chimney for 5m then traverse left up slabs to finish.

FA: A. Roilo & R. Mann

3
19 Tarzan In New York Trad 20m

Start near the base of the gully and climb halfway along the diagonal crack and traverse right for 3m onto face. Up face for 5m then move back left to finish straight up slab above.

FA: A. Roilo

South Face

Best reached by abseiling to the large slabby ledge at base of wall.

4
18 Father and Son Trad 35m

Starts 5m east of gully at base of slab of South Face. Climb up large ockets at 5m then diagonally leftward onto steeper rock until te angle starts to ease. Marginal gear.

FA: K. Bennet & D. Bennet, 1991

5
18 * Shock The Monkey Trad 40m

The slab on the right side of the face. Climb slab for 7m to reach a large crack. Follow crack and go for a long run-out (10m) to the large horizontal crack and build belay.

FA: A. Roilo & R. Mann, 1990

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.