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Routes in Monkey Rock

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Showing all 26 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Western Slab Face
10 Marcel

This route is a great introduction to leading. Glue in U-bolts pro-tect. Start below two obvious opposing diagonal cracks that bisect each other about 4m above the ground to form a large "X". Climb directly to the second bolt, take the crack on the left for a move or two, then move out on to the right face and up to a double bolt belay on a good ledge. Descend using the rappel station 2m to the right at the top of Funky Monkey, or top out up the second pitch of Funky Monkey. FA Scott Ishman, Paul Collis, 19th April 2015.

Sport 26m, 8
13 Funky Monkey

Start a few metres right and below of Marcel, below a faint cres-cent flake/crack at 5m. Climb rightwards up to the flake, make a tricky move up to a pocket on the left and then on up the features and slabs above. Glue in U-bolts protect. FA Paul Collis, Scott Ishman, 19th April 2015

Sport 27m, 8
11 Derek’s Line

Start a few metres right of Funkey Monkey at a short blank slab below a deep vertical groove line. Climb the slab which can be tricky if wet and then move to the right wall of the groove. Climb up a pillar to breaks then step left to the crack as it begins to turn to the right. Climb the crack to reach a double U-bolt belay. The gear is mostly good but is a bit sparse and at about one third height. FA Scott Ishman, Paul Collis 30th May 2016? Led previously? Known to have been top-roped by Derek et al.

Trad 26m
15 Ancestral Vices

Start eight metres right of Funkey Monkey just left of a wide righ-wards leaning block filled groove/crack. Climb up leftwards across a blankish wall (crux) to reach a short diagonal crack. Move up right and then onwards up the pockets and over a diagonal break to reach a double U-bolt belay. Glue in U-bolts protect. FA Paul Collis, Scott Ishman, 30th May 2016

Sport 26m, 10
17 King of the Swingers Sport 12m
12 Compulsion

Begin below a bush at the base of a left facing flake at 5m. Climb directly to the flake, up it, and then head slightly right to join King Louie and finish up that route. The line is a bit grubby and unless you have very small cams the gear is a bit sketchy (and even if you have them it’s dubious in places). FA Scott Ishman, Paul Collis, 30th May 2016.

Trad 27m
12 King Louie

The route is located on the south east most portion of the area marked on the map. Ideal beginners route. Mix of gentle sloped slabs and areas with plenty of holds. Upper portion is basically slab/steep scramble. No belay loop present but otherwise u bolts present. Tree roots etc available to tie in light belayers/top rope.

FA:

Sport 27m, 9
10 Jungle Fever

The route is located on the south east most portion of the area marked on the map. Ideal beginners route with plenty of decent holds and the large crack the allows some chimney style movements. U bolts present, no belay loop at base but suitable tree roots present.

Sport 12m, 6
14 Chimpanology Sport 40m
23 Vicki Got The Beta

Follow the track past the intail climbs, just before the access to the top there is a ring bolted sport route next to it. Follow the cresent moon crack to the top and then head left and top out for the route. Top access for ring bolts or a sport 19 to the right for a warm up to get to the ring bolts. Have not bolted the route itself yet.

UnknownProject 25m, 3
Monkey Rock, West Face
14 Le Mure

Start at left side of West Face. Traverse left for 3m above bushes then diagonally up and rightwards for 10m. FA was a solo.

FA: A. Roilo, 1989

Trad 15m
15 Cheeta

Starts 20m right of Le Mure and 2m left of chimney. Climb slightly overhanging wall via the holes up to a good ledge. Chimney for 5m then traverse left up slabs to finish.

FA: A. Roilo & R. Mann

Trad 25m
19 Tarzan In New York

Start near the base of the gully and climb halfway along the diagonal crack and traverse right for 3m onto face. Up face for 5m then move back left to finish straight up slab above.

FA: A. Roilo

Trad 20m
Monkey Rock, South Face
18 Simian

Grade 18-20?, carrots/trad., 38m? No details of this route are known so the name and grade are as-sumed. An undercut start just left of Father and Son leads to good looking climbing, trending left first then up. The stainless steel car-rot bolts look to be fairly closely spaced except for between bolts 3 & 4 where some medium/large cams might be used in pockets to the right. Thanks to some kind soul this route is blessed with a big fat double U-bolt belay which it shares with the next two routes. Scramble off to the top. FA Unknown

Trad 38m
18 Father and Son

Starts 5m east of gully at base of slab of South Face. Climb up large ockets at 5m then diagonally leftward onto steeper rock until te angle starts to ease. Marginal gear.

FA: K. Bennet & D. Bennet, 1991

Trad 35m
18 Shock The Monkey

The slab on the right side of the face. Climb slab for 7m to reach a large crack. Follow crack and go for a long run-out (10m) to the large horizontal crack and build belay.

FA: A. Roilo & R. Mann, 1990

Trad 40m
Western Slab Plateau Bouldering
15/16 Permanent Wave

This climb begins in the wide cleft between the biggest boulder and its’ crescent fake offspring. Climb the cleft until the outer edge disappears then go directly up the main boulder face to the summit. Two or three carrots or glue-in machine bolts protect. Looks to be a tad bold even in its current form. In its original form this route is reported to have been climbed as a pure unprotected bridging route up the cleft. The steepening cleft and increasingly scary rattling fall down into it made it a bold and “never again” lead according to one ascentionist Steve Cooper. There is also a carrot and a fixed hanger at the top for anchor, but you can't abseil from that. You can scramble down the north face though.

Sport 10m, 2
14 Little Trouble in Big China

This climb takes the obvious compelling crack in the south face of the boulder. Easy OW well protected with a 5 & 6 plus supplemental smaller cams. Adventurous down climb through the blocky chimney to the east.

Trad 10m
Monkey Rock, Eastern Face
16 Monkey Puzzle

FA: Paul Collis & Scott Ishman, 27 Apr 2015

Sport 48m
17 Monkey Puzzle Direct

FA: Paul Collis & Scott Ishman, 27 Apr 2015

Sport 48m
18 Ape Index Unknown
16 Cheeky Monkey

FA: Paul Collis & Scott Ishman, 18 Apr 2015

Sport 27m
18 Monkey Business

FA: Paul Collis & Scott Ishman, 26 Apr 2015

Sport 22m
13 The Naked Ape Trad 20m
14 Rock Lobster

Found on a CAWA Forum from 2015, potentially a duplicate of something already here. Please delete if not the FA. Without photos I can't tell what's what. https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/monkey-rock-rock-lobster-16m-14/

This is the obvious short chimney that is easily found on the descent to the Eastern face,

Start to the right of “The Naked Ape” at the obvious chimney. Climb the chimney and then continue up the vertical crack on the left. There is a bolted anchor at the top for “The Naked Ape”.

N. Cole, R. Trigger Sep 15

Trad 16m
13 The Measure of a Man

Begin just down from the top of the gully at a large right hand flake crack/chimney. If you have very large cams and a penchant for Yosemite style classic chimneys, climb up inside the off-width. If you have no large cams but bags of confidence, layback boldly up the outside of the flake until rewarded by respite and gear. Move up and then left to join The Naked Ape to finish. FA Unknown.

Trad 20m

Showing all 26 routes.

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