Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lights Beach Stand Alone Bloc | |||||
V3 | ★ Glass Mountain Policy
Can pretty much start anywhere around the boulder and start traversing in either direction. Largely well featured with a couple tricky sections (and sometimes a wet section near the water depending on the swell). Traverse around the whole boulder. Good one for working on the footwork. | ||||
V0 | ★ The Lights Boulder
Stand start. Up the slab with flat holds. | ||||
V2 | ★★ Lux Aeterna
Stand start with the obvious large flake. Up and slightly right. Great exposure with easy moves | ||||
V2/3 | ★★ High and Dry
Stand start with the next juggy feature along then up. Rad. | ||||
Don't fall on the dog
Standing start head left of the flake on small crimps and over onto the slab | |||||
V3 | ★ The Original
Far left line on the face. Start with undercling flake and up. | ||||
V0 | ★ Back slab
Well featured slab facing away from the ocean. | ||||
Slab stuff
Didn't try it, but probably some easy slab stuff here... | |||||
V0 - 1 | Vague Crack
Stand start. | ||||
V1/2 | ★ Flakes and Pockets
Sit start with the flake. Up to the obvious large pocket jug and up. | ||||
VB | Lights lite
Well featured section of the wall. | ||||
V0 | Mini-flake
Sit start. Layback and up easy slab | ||||
V0 | Off sider
Sit start. | ||||
Lights Beach Main Area | |||||
V5 | ★★ Wave Particle Duality, left
Sit start on flat edges. Up the face trending left with sharp holds. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Wave Particle Duality Direct
Sit start on flat edges. Up directly and slightly right. Avoid using the obvious juggy flake as it has a lot of flex to it and will probably come off soon. A bit more awkward than the left | 3m | |||
V1 | EM Radiation
Sit start with crimp. Up arete. Awkward to start | 3m | |||
V0 | Maxwells Equations
Sit start, layback. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Light Wave Experiment
Sit start on the far left with left hand on arete and right hand on sloper. High foot under the roof and slap out right and traverse all the way around until you can swing your feet down onto the chossy flake and top out. Early exits are possible. | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ Into Daylight
Sit start as for 'Light At The End of The Tunnel' and extend the traverse all the way left to a finishing mantle at the far left corner (big obvious flake on the left that isn't connected to boulder is out). | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Light At The End of The Tunnel
Start matched on obvious flat-ish low jug on the right. Traverse left and up. Awesome. https://youtu.be/ts9SvK0c9H8?t=69 | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Tunnel Vision
Start on obvious flat-ish jug as for 'Light At The End of The Tunnel'. Head straight up with slopey holds. Tricky moves to navigate around the bulge onto the slab. https://youtu.be/WqrZPGv8opU?si=tH3sw3FIkIML-AZV | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Darkness
Sit start with flake. Straight up. https://youtu.be/ts9SvK0c9H8?t=22 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Christmas Lights
The far left line. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Fairy Lights
Stand start with sidepull jugs and up. Fun and easy | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Fairy Lights Variant
Stand start with the flat juggy hold and up. | 3m | |||
V1/2 | ★ The Lighthouse
Sit start and up with good holds. | 4m | |||
V3/4 | ★★ The Illuminated Path
Sit start on the right with two flat holds. Thrutchy first move up to the undercling then traverse leftward on undercling to an easy topout. | 5m | |||
V0 | ★ Lumos
Stand start and up easy jugs. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Lumos, Sit
Sit with two flat holds as for 'The Illuminated Path'. Up to undcercling then up with jugs | 4m | |||
V0 - 1 | ★ Luma 255
Stand start, up with flat holds. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Wavelength
Sit start compressing the lowball overhang and up avoiding the right boulder. | ||||
Lights Beach The Sandy Blocs | |||||
V1 | Low Tide
Sit start with obvious hold. Up the slab. Avoid the big flake on the left for feet. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Sand In My Shoe
Sit start. Up the obvious crack trending right. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Sand In My Shoe, Left
Trending left onto the slab. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Slip, Slop, Slap
Sit start. Up the obvious jug flake. Often wet. | 3m | |||
VB | SPF 40+
Sit start. Up the slabby crack. | 3m | |||
V0 | Beach Games
Sit start the lowball face. | 2m | |||
V1/2 | Jaws
Sit start matched on obvious jug. Up the arete. A bit awkward. | 2m | |||
V0 - 1 | ★ Great White
Sit start right hand undercling left hand arete. Slap up and over. Fun | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Sharknado
Sit start. Traverse rightwards on the slopey lip. | 3m | |||
The Channel Wall | |||||
V1 | ★★ bumble gum
start sitting on the bulge with left hand in the higher 2 finger pocket and right hand in the pocket low on the bulge, trend right on good holds avoiding the thin flakes and choss above and finish matched on the slopey bulge just below the lip. FA: Aussie Edwards, May 2023 | ||||
V5 | ★★★ The Bees Knees
Start as ‘Bumble Gum’ and traverse right to link all the way right and finish as ‘Queen Bee’ FA: Michael Taran, Jul 2023 | ||||
V4 | ★★ swarm dreams
sit start matched on the good side pull jug under the mini roof, big move up to the good holds and finish matched on the slopey bulge just below the lip. FA: Aussie Edwards, May 2023 | ||||
V3 | ★★ swarm nightmares
crouch start on big jutting jug in the mini roof traverse left on slopers and a cool pinch hold join into bumble gum and finish matched on the slopey bulge just below the lip. FA: Aussie Edwards, May 2023 | ||||
V3 | ★★ dirty baggers
crouch start on the big jutting jug under the mini roof and traverse right on slopers to join and finish as for the honey hole FA: Aussie Edwards, May 2023 | ||||
V4 | ★ sausage dogs are a myth
crouch start on the big jutting jug under the mini roof and head up eliminating the slopers out right, using a right hand side pull move up to a slopey pocket up high and move right to finish matched on the bulge. FA: Aussie Edwards, May 2023 | ||||
V2 | ★★★ the honey hole midstart
stand start with good 3 finger pocket and perfectly round 2 finger pocket, move up through slopers and into a two finger pocket to finish matched on the bulge just above. FA: Aussie Edwards, May 2023 | ||||
V4 | ★★ the honey hole
sit start with thin side pull and flat crimp directly up to join the stand and finish matched on the bulge above the two finger pocket. FA: Aussie Edwards, May 2023 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Queen bee
Stand start in the 3 finger slot and the 2 finger pocket and traverse right with shouldery moves on slopey holds to finish matched on the blocky bulge (the pinch to the left of the bulge doesn't count) FA: Aussie Edwards, Jun 2023 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Queen Bee Sit
Sit start as for the honey hole on the left hand side pull and right hand flat edge move up and trend right along seam of bad slopers to finish with a precarious match on the blocky bulge up high (the pinch to the left of the bulge doesn't count) FA: Aussie Edwards, Jun 2023 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Lockjaw and Tetanus
Sit start on green jug with a big dead point move to a slopey crimp, traverse along similar holds left to join the start of Honey hole and finish the same FA: Aussie Edwards, May 2023 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Lockjaw Queen
Start as for lockjaw and tetanus and link into queen bee traversing right on slopers into a precarious match finish on the blocky bulge up high (the pinch on the left of the block does not count) FA: Aussie Edwards, Jun 2023 | ||||
V4 | Bare knuckle fist fight
Start on the big green jug as for lockjaw and tetanus and head right and finish matched in the black slot FA: Aussie Edwards, Jun 2023 | ||||
V5 | ★★ A Knife to a fist fight
Sit start on low slot and pocket, move up through crimps and pinches to join bare knuckle fist fight and finish matched in the black slot. Direct might go? FA: Aussie Edwards, Jun 2023 | ||||
V8 | ★★ Lockjaw to a knife fight
Start in low slots as for knife fight and head left climbing into 'lockjaw and tetanus' and finish matched on the bulge. Bit of a power endurance piece. FA: Aussie Edwards, Jun 2023 | ||||
V8 | ★★ Lockjaw to a Knife Fight var
Climb as ‘lockjaw to a knife fight’ but instead of finishing left as ‘honey hole’ traverse right from the three finger pocket and finish as ‘lockjaw queen’. Slightly harder than the original https://youtu.be/k1WCoBsiq2U FA: just a variant to the original line for a bit of fun | ||||
Lockjaw Direct
Straight up after the big move with powerful throw to slopey edge then finish on obvious blocky jugs. Hard as nails | |||||
V6 | Misdirection
Start as for 'A Knife to A Fist Fight' but up tending right to finish in the black slot. Awkward FA: Michael Taran, Jul 2023 | ||||
V4 | ★ The scientific name of a bee
Sit start on slopey edge and move up and right with powerful moves to finish in the chossy break FA: Aussie Edwards, Jun 2023 | ||||
mustache proj
Sit start on back wall and link into under ya nose | |||||
V5 | ★★ under ya nose
start matched on the flat ledge and move up through slopey dimples finish on the jug up high | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Killer Bee
Sit start on the right and traverse left with tricky moves into the stand of 'Under ya nose'. Pumpy and cool. FA: Michael Taran, Jul 2023 | ||||
Right project #1
| |||||
V6 | ★★ rocket pockets
sit start left hand on pad 2 finger pocket and right hand on good jug under mini roof, power your way up and move right through the pockets with a big move finish just above on strange holds on the bulge FA: Aussie Edwards, May 2023 | ||||
Distancing Boulders Carpark circuit the orange blocks | |||||
V0 | ★ COVIDiot
sit start squeezing the boulder and up FA: Michael Taran, 2020 | ||||
V1 | COVID Tracker
start on blocky jug straight up on jugs FA: Michael Taran, 2020 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Pre-Apocalypse
sit start on two side pulls stacked on top of each other, squeeze your way up FA: Michael Taran, 2020 | ||||
V5 | ★ Remain Indoors!
start with left hand on big jug and right hand on good side pull avoiding big juggy sidepulls in the break, move left to join arguing and top out FA: Michael Taran, 2020 | ||||
Distancing Boulders Social Distancing Bloc (and surrounds) | |||||
V1/2 | ★★ Solitude
Sit start with left hand on arete, and low right hand. Low foot under the roof and right heel. https://youtu.be/aoQ46s61esg?t=35 FA: Michael Taran, Mar 2020 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★★ Distancing
Sit start and then up the obvious vertical jug flake. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoQ46s61esg FA: Michael Taran, Mar 2020 | 4m | |||
V1 | Distancing, Left
Sit start then traverse left on edges to an easy top. FA: Michael Taran, Mar 2020 | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Social Distancing
Sit start with left hand low slopey sidepull, right hand flat crimp and up the arete with awesome moves. Avoid escaping right and instead go straight up. Classic. https://youtu.be/aoQ46s61esg?t=63 FA: Michael Taran, Mar 2020 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★ Breaking Quarantine
Sit start as for 'Distancing' then go right to the flat rail and finish as for 'Social Distancing'. FA: Michael Taran, Mar 2020 | 5m | |||
V6 | ★ Cross Contamination
Sit start as for 'Social Distancing' but from the flat rail escape left through jugs to the easy top of 'Distancing' FA: Michael Taran, Mar 2020 | 5m | |||
Distancing Boulders Distancing west | |||||
V2 | ★★ Plandemic
Sit start on the under cling and squeeze up the lowball FA: Michael Taran, Mar 2020 | ||||
V2 | ★ Lockdown
Sit start in the crack and up FA: Michael Taran, Mar 2020 | ||||
DIVOC
FA: Michael Taran, Mar 2020 | |||||
Flat Curve Society
FA: Michael Taran, Mar 2020 | |||||
Conspiracy Theories
FA: Michael Taran, Mar 2020 | |||||
Boat Harbour The Pit | |||||
V2 | ★★★ The kraken
Sit start and layback up the crack FA: Aussie Edwards, Mar 2022 | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Into the kraken
Start matched where the flake looks like it's missing on the arete, get horizontal half way up and link into the kraken FA: Aussie Edwards, Mar 2022 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Cephalopod Limb
Start the same as into the kraken, instead follow the arete up to the top FA: Aussie Edwards, Mar 2022 | ||||
V1 | ★ Sloop
Sit start in a layback and follow the obvious feature up FA: Aussie Edwards, Mar 2022 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Sloops Tooth
Start as for sloop but traverse left across slopers to the tooth and then up FA: Aussie Edwards, Mar 2022 | ||||
V3 | ★★★ First Mate
Sit start on the obvious flake into the Gaston on and up to the lip, top out through slab. Great climb FA: Aussie Edwards, Mar 2022 | ||||
V2 | ★★★ Sounds like snails
Sit start in the crack on the bulge easy moves up into a cool mantle on the feature the gain the slopey lip. Climbs well FA: Sophie Blundell, Mar 2023 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Prowd Guppy
Start as for sounds like snails on the bulge but make some tricky moves straight up the arete to gain the lip FA: Chiara Blundell, Mar 2023 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Pegleg Gumbies
Start right hand on the bad gaston and left hand on the arete (not too high) and make some balancey moves to gain the lip. Easier if tall FA: Aussie Edwards, Mar 2023 | ||||
V1 | Bilge
Low start squeezing the boulder. Top out directly up Pretty Jank FA: Aussie Edwards, Mar 2022 | ||||
V3 | ★ Bilge pump
Low start squeezing the boulder come out right and traverse along the lip before topping FA: Aussie Edwards, Mar 2022 | ||||
V3 | ★ Smoke stack
Sit start low on flake/sidepulls up through sharp jugs FA: Aussie Edwards, Mar 2022 | ||||
V5 | ★ Below deck
Real low sit start on slots, Into jugs and up. Last move is real cool FA: Aussie Edwards, Mar 2022 | ||||
V6/7 | ★★ Stargate
Sit start far left and traverse right on slopey holds avoiding the lip until the end of the low feature then mantle. Pumpy and fun. FA: Michael Taran, Sep 2023 | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Whale egg
Start right side of boulder on rail and traverse into a big move to the lip. FA: Aussie Edwards, Mar 2022 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Buried Treasure
Start in the cave on obvious flake, cool moves on jugs to the lip. Dig deep for the mantle Low flake is out for feet FA: Aussie Edwards, Mar 2022 | ||||
V5 | ★ Calm Seas
Start as for 'Buried Treasure', but traverse leftwards on low seam to top out with obvious plate. Dabby. FA: Michael Taran, Aug 2023 | ||||
V3 | ★ Tigers Tail
Start on the arete move up through slopers to gain the jugs, don't top out too early FA: Aussie Edwards, Mar 2022 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Gale Force
Sit start on crimps following the obvious rail features up the aesthetic face. Bonus points for the knee bar FA: Justin Hannig, 2019 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Slip Sliding with the Captain
Sit start on the undercling shield feature and up. Crack techniques helpful FA: julian dear, Jul 2022 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Mr T walks the plank
Stand start low left hand slot, right hand slopey arete, up through the features and match the sloper on top of the black streak to finish. Top out might go, but seems desperate FA: Aussie Edwards, Jul 2022 |