Routes in Eastern MacDonnells

1. Start 5m right og the left hand end of the inset arch, climb the undercling crack and follow it righ towards the apex.

2. Committing moves from the belay off right using the jug then easy diagonal traverse up and right to a small ledge. Belay here or continue 5m to a large ledge.

3. Whatever you like - moving up the roof corner from large ledge is about a 15 and a touch thrutchy.

This offers a different first pitch to M&M traversing the right side of the large arch up through the roof, about 1.5m from the apex. Sitting belay option just above the apex. From there the climb follows the M&M line for another 2 pitches

Runout start can be avoided by starting up GWTMT and traversing into line (same grade). Originally graded 19, easily worth an extra grade for the top section alone.

Excellent and steep, sustained headwall. Starting 5m left of the left hand end of the triangle roof just below a piton at 6m. Up past the piton and trend back right to a block at the overlap. Pass the block on it's left before continuing past a 2nd pin and sustained climbing. Solid grade for 19.

Dirty, crumbly climb up the right hand end of the wall. Straight up, can be done in one pitch with a 60m rope. Wear a helmet! Good fun on the squeeze and jam on the boulder near the top.

The exact location of this climb is unknown. The original description detailed the climb as starting from the sundeck in the middle of the cliff.

This and following three climbs are on a large and obvious semi detached arch at the far L end of the cliff, about 200m L of the waterhole. Climb the huge crack up the L side of the arch to its apex, then over roof to nice face above.

Thin crack 4m R of CC, in the middle of the arch. Through overhang to join CC. Little to no protection at the crux about 7 metres up. Delicate moves will get you to the flake above where a size 4 cam will save the day. Not for the faint of heart as there is potential for a ground fall at the crux.

The R side of the arch, then undercling out and over roof to join CC

As for ES for 3m, then step R and up overhang to lovely cracks above.

Main wall right of the Arch: Wide chimney 4m R of ES separating the huge detached flake and the main cliff. Not very well protected

1. 23m Chimney to a large ledge.

2. 13m Up wall to a ledge, then climb diagonally up and L to finish.

Nice climbing with bomber protection up major corner 7m R of the major chimney of TLP. Start 5m L of large pine conifer at nice curving flakes.

1. 30m Up flakes, over small roof on R, and up into easy corner which is followed to roof and belay.

2. 15m Traverse R below roof (poor pro) till you can breach roof and climb the layback slab above. For an easier climb, keep traversing R below roof, then finish up corner (12).

Two variants exist, and both pull out on to the face L of the major corner. Climb CV's crack to the start of the red slab and corner, pull out onto face and up to ledge.

Start 10m R of CV on a ledge with a small conifer. Climb face and vertical crack to L leading ramps. Up to belay at piton.

3m R of RAK is a thin crack. Up this to faces and mini-roofs to ledge, step R, up corner and straight up middle of the lovely face to top (poor pro).

Good value. Major corner-crack and slanting roof 100m L of waterhole. Start at flat dirt spot (just R of a white ghost gum), below crack and large prominent corner.

1. 45m Up crack to bush, then corner to slanting roof. Around this and up to semi-hanging belay.

2. 20m Traverse 8m R till a weakness (directly below large tree) leads to large ledge.

Walk off L, or climb short wall above (Mark Rewi, 05/04/98).

Aptly named. Start 2m L of large pine tree 20m R of HWC.

1. 26m Climb small slab to ledge, then up vegetated ledge to large boulder. Step L, up over bulge to belay at R end of ledge.

2. 34m Corner to slab angling towards large crack on R till large bush. Up L of this and face to large tree

Start at the small brown gumtree and a white gumtree in the middle of the cliff (which one is the question!)

1. 30m Up corner, past ledge to another corner. At next ledge traverse L and up corner to another large ledge.

2. 23m Up corner at the L end of ledge, then traverse L until it is possible to go through break in the roof. Up wall to the top

A full excursion to the very top of the cliff. Starts about 85m L of the waterhole, directly below large R facing corner that starts about 30m off the ground.

1. 30m. Climb face and crack breaking through a small roof at 8m, continue up the crack and climb past a shallow chimney to reach a large belay ledge.

2. 25m Straight up the fun R facing corner to finish at a ledge below small overhang.

3. 25m Up corner to roof, step L around the corner and up into vague crack. Up to vague crack and so to ledge - scramble the last 10m to top

Wide crack/corner in gully just R of CT. When it degenerates to a scramble traverse R to just above a tree to gain chimney which is followed to top.

Wide crack on the RHS of gully, just R of Threllin. Climb crack until it is possible to gain ledge on R (just before bushy tree). Up slab just R of bush to broken ground. Finish up slab above.

A vegetated scramble through history - bring your whipper-snipper? Vegetated crack just R of gully R of Diakon. Up through tree to below second tree which avoided on its L. Return to crack and up to bush which is also avoided on its L. When the line breaks into two, follow the obvious corner to the top.

Obvious companion crack-line just L of Wisecrack. Scramble to the start.

1. 10m Up corner to tree, then R and up to ledge.

2. 30m Up easy crack from the L end of ledge to another large ledge on R.

3. 17m Continue up crack to top

Locate large block at base off cliff (about 10m L of two gum trees). Scramble to the top of this.

1. 36m Short jam crack up from the L side of block to ledge. Up into chimney until a large ledge is reached on R.

2. 14m Continue up obvious line to belay on large tree.

Locate short slab behind the two gums R of Wisecrack. Climb instead the short vegetated corner on the L side of the slab (just R of the block). At ledge, climb crack above to gain a ramp leading R. From ramp, straight up chimney to enter a corner above from the R. Up to large chockstone, step R and continue to top

Starts at the E end of the cliff, by the gap and two gums.

1. 14m Up crack just R of the two gums to where it bends R and step across onto narrow ledge.

2. 15m Continue up (now heavily overgrown) corner crack to the top

Just L of the waterhole are two slabs, with an overhanging wall separating the two. This climb ascends the L one. At small ledge follow the obvious rising zigzag with some tricky moves to a good finger edge and what probably passes for the crux. Then follow centre of slab to top

This is the popular black slab to the R of the TEG. When the waterhole is high, this climb may be inaccessible. Otherwise a small sandbar leads to the base. Straight up middle of slab (tricky start). Poor pro, but can be toproped by climbing up the easy arete around the corner.

Up the massive L corner crack, L of TPA, the final bulge being the crux.

A Strenuous and sustained crack 3m L of CC.

This climb is in the gap - please do not climb it.

Slab and crack in middle of wall, passing rooflet.

2m R of HWWU. Grassy groove, passing rooflet at three quarter height

This and the following five climbs are on Carrot Wall, the prominent wall R of the waterhole. Diagonally L up ramp to small ledge. Straight up corner past small dead bush at half height. Continue up crack to top

Up crack in middle of buttress 8m R of BB, passing dead bush at half height.

Up corner 4m R of BLD to join L trending crack after 4m. Past small tree to top.

Thin crack 4m R of BH at R end of cliff. Up 4m then step L into prominent corner crack and layback to top.

A nice varied crack in a fairly obvious position (I hope you find that position).

From the carpark, locate the big flake about 200m L (W) of gap. Nice but escapable. Walk to the base of the flake, at L leaning ramps and tree. Thin crack 3m R of ramp. Hard start can be avoided by traversing in from L. Climb face all the way, veering L before big flake. Along flake, then straight up and over to shallow corner. Scramble off L or R

This and the following climbs are reprinted from the 1973 guide. The climbs start at the L end of the cliff, before you get to the large boulder stewn scree slope. Presto takes the R of two gullies, just above a ramp.

Good climbing up the corner R of Presto. Up to spike (beware of loose rock), continue up corner to top.

Locate large tree, 30m up and L of black slab at L end of wall. Scramble up to crack 10m above tree.

1. 35m L diagonal crack, then short ramp on R to slanting corner. Diagonally L under this to a ledge.

2. 14m Crack at the R side of slab, through break and L around bulge to top

Corner at R edge of slab to narrow chimney. Up to tree and ledge. John Griffiths

1. 23m Wide corner-crack R of AT, up to large ledge on R. Continue up smooth corner to another large ledge.

2. 17m Up line until it is possible to go R and around onto exposed face, finishing up v-groove.

Corner R of NS to where it narrows, finishing up the tight chimney

Obvious chimney splitting the centre of slab R of OS. 1) 12m Crack to ledge. 2) 26m Chimney to top.

1. 12m As for Evolution.

2. 27m From R hand end of ledge, climb crack until it is possible to move into gully to the L. Grade unknown.

Crack in the smooth slab R of Debut, directly to tree

Start at shattered groove, 2m R of prominent crack R of Genesis's slab. 1) 13m Groove to the junction with the crack at overhang. Traverse L to belay on bushy ledge. 2) 44m Slab above, moving L when the holds start to thin. Up groove on R, to easier ground below the obvious hanging block. Up corner-crack to the top

Prominent crack that the start of Primate avoids. When necessary, step R onto wall. Up into the crack again which is followed up to a ledge. Belay here, or scramble up the L crack of three short cracks above.

Scramble up gully R of Procreation for about 30m (up behind fig tree). 1) 25m Easily up L gully to below a black slab. Belay on slab, or in R gully. 2) 30m Continue up L gully until it steepens. Up crack to below overhang. Traverse L around this to a stance. 3) 8m Scramble to top.

Starts as for Valgus, taking the R hand gully. Climb up under the large chockstone, then straight up chimney to top

At R (Eastern) end of Taree cliff are two cracks, both leading to a large chockstone. 1) 12m Climb slab below bush, L of chockstone. Veer around bush then back L to the wide L crack, up this, and belay below chimney. 2) 23m Chimney-crack to ledge, finish up curving crack

The sister crack, 3m R of TW. 1) 43m Up slab on R to ledge above chockstone. Up and though 'overhang', following crack up to a small stance. 2) 40m Step R and up slab to ridge, following this up L to a small white corner. Up corner, then R to belay

Starts by the tree in the gully opposite car park. Be warned of poor pro and loose rock. 1) 40m From slab on L side of gully climb corner about 3m down from the tree. Follow corner to where it steepens, up short wall to a small ledge. Up slab bounded by wide crack on R, then groove to poor belay at stance. 2) 27m Traverse L across easy slab to far edge. Make an exposed move around this to gain easy ridge and belay

Starts at line, halfway along the cliff. Marked by a small cairn. 1) 47m Up for 3m, then diagonally R, then L for 5m and up to white slab. Traverse R and up to grassy ledge. 2) 6m Up easily to belay below large corner. 3) 34m Easily up corner to top.

Named for the old brown stubby bottle found at the start of the climb. We've left it there for reference. Up the large right leaning crack, to ledge then through the vertical crack on the blank looking face to the small shrub. Continue up slightly left to the top. First climbed by Garn and Anna Brooke on a beautiful winters day

Climb the overhung wall and arete to chain.

Nice little line with 3 bolts. Start up cutting edge, then traverse left to FH (it spins, but the bolt is solid). Up lower-off.

Bouldery start to short steep crack (good med wires) in centre of crag. Up to FH, then across to diagonal seam and finish as for MS.

Diagonal line starting from RHS. Tricky move into line, then more easily to join last few moves of MS.

Nice, thoughtful climbing. Used to have one bolt and fiddly pro. Now has 3 bolts and an anchor sporting fixed carabiners

Mixed climb. 2 bolts to start, then good wires/cams. Finish off Rt to lower off anchor at top of Diagenesis.

This climb starts up the R leading diagaonal crack on the buttress to the R. Then straight up for 5m, then up and around RH arete to easy but poorly protected slab above. Now has bolted belay which serves this and 2 adjacent routes.

Mixed climb. 2 bolts, then good wire/cam x 2. Shares same finish with Diagenesis. Finish at lower off anchor for Diagenesis.

Takes the line immediately left of the crack/weakness. 4 bolts to same anchor as Ruby Gap 5. Eases off to grade 14 after 3rd bolt.

About 15m right of Stubby. Left side of the large crack starts in front of the right hand ghost gum on a grounded boulder. Sequency start to smooth moves, watch for a few loose rocks yet to be dislodged. Straight up

Pleasant bolted climb. Easy route finding, but some still manage to get lost. 6 bolts to Rap anchor. Start on Right of boulder in shallow groove. Starting off boulder directly below 1st bolt slightly harder.

A large eagle was circling above while climbing on the first ascent, hence the name. Follows the prominent crack 4m left of something about swallows. Still a bit of cleaning to be done but a great featured climb

4m right of prominent centre vertical crack. Start traversing left on left leaning ramp then straight up right side of arete. Final 3metres takes you left around the arete to top out. Walk off on ramp about 15m to the left.

Climb curving corner-crack directly below hanging boulder 50m L of main cliff.

Excellent, well protected climbing up a beautiful seam on L of attractive buttress in the middle of the cliff. Two BRs.

Reachy. Seam and corner 3m R of Superfreak. Three BRs.

Crack 3m R of LP.

200m R of the Superfreak buttress, and 80m R of two detatched pinnacles. L leaning crack then back R to main crack that splitts butress.

Sustained L facing groove 5m R of ANH, 2m R of chossy weakness. Finish up short R leaning diagonal to prominent white gum.

Situated on Lower Benstead, before you get to the main cliff. Start about 10m R of giant fig tree. Good, steep face climbing up 5 BR's to chain

Access is an issue

Takes the line of least resistance up the main cliff, taking wall R of the major cave up on the left. Upon approach, walk up the L side of the cliff until you climb up a small step. A large diagonal crack leads up to the R takes good natural gear, take a few cams of all sizes.

1. 25m 21. Steep start eases to nice climbing up line. Strenuous moves lead past small hanging corner (#1 friend) to a good jug, then continue up left to DBB (25m abseil from here).

2. 25m 22. Traverse 5m R to gain diagonal crack (crux). Up this till it ends, then straight up (poor pro) to the slab above . Traverse L to 45m rap from rings to the ground.

A fantastic line, and amazing climbing in a proud position. Start on the far R of main cliff. Climb short wall (FH) to cave and bolt (requires bracket) then L and up (take #9 wire to better protect moves to the next FH). Up to horizontal, then L and nice climbing up line to double diagonal cracks - (lower off possible here 25m, 25). Into corner and up (crux) to another diagonal crack. Up on pockets, traverse along L leading diagonal, then straight up past another FH to finish at chain on huge block. Possible to lower to shackles with a 60m rope.

Start near a small tree in the middle of the cliff and follow the broken vertical crack for 3m, then make a rising rightward traverse following the thin crack

Probably climbed earlier. pitch 1 45M 14. Pitch 2 25m 14. Pitch 3 50m 14