South Coogee All sport climbing15 routes in area
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A 40m long by 10m high patch of excellent but dead blank sandstone, with a lot of (dodgy!) bolts and chips thrown in for good measure.
The crag is located below Alexandria Parade, 'South Coogee', with a large dodgy "bolt" being the main landmark on top of the cliff. To get there by public transport, catch a 372, 373, or 374 bus to Coogee Beach and walk south along the clifftop track (through Grant and Trenerry Reserves) until you reach the crag. Alternatively, you can park in Alexandria Pde.
Apart from "Get a Rat Up Ya", almost none of the routes are suitable for leading, since most of the bolts are very badly weathered. Many of the belay bolts were replaced during the 90s, so top roping is a good option.
Although the rock is excellent and many of the routes are worth doing, the crag has a bad tendency to seep. Apparently this has only started occuring in the last 10 years or so as a result of local landowners dumping their lawn clippings on the cliff side of the road. If you're walking south from Coogee Beach, you can scope out the state of the crag from the start of the boardwalk in Trenerry Reserve, about 200m north of the crag.© (willmonks)
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