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Description

A 40m long by 10m high patch of excellent but dead blank sandstone, with a lot of (dodgy!) bolts and chips thrown in for good measure.

The crag is located below Alexandria Parade, 'South Coogee', with a large dodgy "bolt" being the main landmark on top of the cliff. To get there by public transport, catch a 372, 373, or 374 bus to Coogee Beach and walk south along the clifftop track (through Grant and Trenerry Reserves) until you reach the crag. Alternatively, you can park in Alexandria Pde.

Apart from "Get a Rat Up Ya", almost none of the routes are suitable for leading, since most of the bolts are very badly weathered. Many of the belay bolts were replaced during the 90s, however, so top roping is a good option.

Although the rock is excellent and many of the routes are worth doing, the crag has a bad tendency to seep. Apparently this has only started occuring in the last 10 years or so as a result of local landowners dumping their lawn clippings on the cliff side of the road. If you're walking south from Coogee Beach, you can scope out the state of the crag from the start of the boardwalk in Trenerry Reserve, about 200m north of the crag.

© (willmonks)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
?(S) R A Sport 8m

2 or 3 bolts to fixed carabiner lower off. All of the bolts are hideously rusted.

Start: Under the massive rooves, 50m south of the main wall. Can only be accessed at low tide and with a small swell. Apparently people have bouldered here in the past as well.

2
26 R Wop Bop Baloo Bop Sport 15m

Up to BR just above lip, traverse left then follow 3 BRs to the top. All of the bolts are very badly weathered.

Start: At far left hand end of main wall.

FA: Mike Law, 1980

3
29 R * SKP Sport 15m

Head up to the first BR on WBBB, then straight up the wall above, passing 1 (?) more BR. The bolts are all badly weathered.

Start: As for WBBB.

FA: Mike Law, 1980

4
27 R ** Beef and Chips Sport 15m

Straight up the wall, passing 4 BRs. All of the bolts are hideously rusted.

Start: 3m right of SKP.

FA: Mike Law, 1980

5
24 R Mark's Unnamed Sport 15m

At the first BR of BaC, tend right past 3 more BRs. All of the bolts are badly weathered.

Start: As for BaC.

FA: Mark Colyvan, 1980

6
21 R * Gash Rash Sport 15m

Up to first bolt on GaRUY, then traverse left and up past 4 more BRs to double BBs (?). All bolts are badly rusted.

Start: 10m right of MU.

FA: Paul Colyvan, 1980

7
23 * Get a Rat Up Ya Sport 15m
8
21 Fuck My Dog Sport 15m
9
23 Come On Aussies Sport 10m
10
16 Jenny's Arete Sport 10m
11
23 * Head Hi Takl Sport 12m
12
23 All in Brawl Sport 12m
13
21 B Sport 10m
14
18 C Sport 10m
15
23 * D Sport 10m