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Description

One of Sydney's smaller and less-intrepid sea cliffs, 'Clovelly' has a range of (often-steep)climbing. The bolts are generally good (by sea-cliff standards) and the rock is not too friable.

© (willmonks)

Approach

On the northern side of 'Clovelly' Beach, beneath Burrows Park. Park in Ocean St, opposite the park, or catch a 339 or 340 bus to the beach and walk up the hill. There is a descent gully at the southern end of the crag (near the northern point of 'Clovelly' Bay), however it is hard to get to the northern climbs, such as 'Steep', from here when the sea is rough or the tide is high. The easiset approch for these climbs is to abseil of the large white survey marker. This is just visible from the road, on the far (sea) side of Burrows Park.

© (willmonks)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The following two routes are on the isolated block, approximately 100m south of the gully containing Sarah and Peter.

There is good bouldering / top-roping on the grey wall to the right.

1
21 A / Lets Go Retro Sport 9m, 4
2
21 B Sport 9m

The following 6 routes are located on the northern side of the gully dropping down from Burrows Park. The nice short orange slab left of Sarah is worth top-roping.

3
8 Sarah Top rope 8m
4
16 Peter Top rope 7m
5
23 DTD Top rope 7m
6
22 Disparity Top rope 7m
7
18 Normal Eyes Trad 9m
8
16 Flagfall Trad 9m
9
20 ** Solidarity Trad 10m

The obvious thin black flake around the corner from the previous routes. The base is often wave-washed.

10
23 Barknuckles Trad 10m

The following 10 routes are best accessed by abseiling in from in front of the white survey marker.

11
? C Trad 15m
12
16 Pigeon Shit Trad 17m
13
17 Dusty Condom Trad 17m
14
25 * Dead Man's Fingers Sport 15m, 5

FA: Trevor Cooper-Williams, 1994

15
22 * Steep Sport 10m, 2

As the name suggests, it is steep!

Start: At the large ringbolt in the rock platform on the northern side of a small bay. ~50m south of the survey marker abseil.

FA: Trevor Cooper-Williams, 1994

16
20 Heat Seeker Unknown 17m
17
11 D Sport 13m
18
15 E Sport 13m
19
23 ** F Sport 13m
20
21 G Sport 15m

The following two routes are chipped into the orange wall in front of the bowling club. There's a fisherman's descent to the north.

21
21 H Top rope 15m
22
18 I Top rope 15m

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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