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Description

One of Sydney's smaller and less-intrepid sea cliffs, Clovelly has a range of (often-steep) climbing. The bolts are generally good (by sea-cliff standards) and the rock is not too friable.

© (willmonks)

Approach

On the northern side of Clovelly Beach, beneath Burrows Park. Park in Ocean St, opposite the park, or catch a 339 or 340 bus to the beach and walk up the hill. There is a descent gully at the southern end of the crag (near the northern point of Clovelly Bay), however it is hard to get to the northern climbs, such as 'Steep', from here when the sea is rough or the tide is high. The easiest approach for these climbs is to abseil in from in front of the large white survey marker. This is just visible from the road, on the far (sea) side of Burrows Park.

© (willmonks)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Projecting Block

The following two routes are on the isolated overhanging block that projects out from the cliff line, approximately 100m south of the 'Orange Slab' and 'South Facing Wall'. The two climbs on this block were retrobolted in 2001.

1
21 Lets Go Retro Sport 9m, 4

Start at the left of the block, traverse along the balancy lip to the arete and then around the corner and up the face to DRB lower off. Same anchors as magic rings. Be aware of rope drag.

2
21 Magic Rings Sport 9m, 4

Starts at the right side of the block and traverses left along the lip then up to the DRB lower off shared with 'Lets Go Retro'.

Grey Wall

The aesthetic pocketed grey wall to the right of the 'Projecting Block'. Offers a variety of nice boulder problems / micro-top-ropes (3 double BBs on top), and a great traverse.

3
V2 * Traverse Boulder 10m

Traverse the grey wall left to right.

Orange Slab

The following routes are on the orange slab with great rock on the left side (facing out) of the walkdown gully. The routes are pretty indistinct - the wall can really be climbed just about anywhere.

4
17 * Orange Slab 1 Top rope 6m

First line after the arete on the left. Blast up to the break if you're tall or move delicate up the slab

5
16 Orange Slab 2 Top rope 6m

To the right of the black streak

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17 Orange Slab 3 Top rope 6m

Start in the hole and continue up the right side of the streak

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17 * Orange Slab 4 Top rope 6m

Start in the hole and continue up the right side of the streak

8
15 Orange Slab 5 Top rope 6m

Between 6 and 4, right of the black streak

9
16 Orange Slab 6 Top rope 6m

Last Climb on the slab, Bulge on the arete is out

South Wall

The following 6 routes are located on the taller walls that are a continuation of the 'Orange Slab'.

10
8 Sarah Top rope 8m

Up the corner with a hard start with large gear. triple BR belay

11
16 Peter Top rope 7m

Up the flake 1m right of 'Sarah'. Then through the chossy roof with a hard sandy topout. Triple BR belay

12
23 Haemoglobin Top rope

Same carrot anchors as dtd. 1m right of Peter. Dtd is marked and chipped 2m right of haemoglobin. The chipped boulder problem is under this route. Start with your hands in the break. Punk up and pull on blood-blister crimps up to sloped hold and top through the honeycomb roof. Balancey. Easier on the tall, rude to the short. You can do a fun boulder / toprope combo too by staying on lax rope and pads as you boulder from under the chipped cave then out and up the wall as your belayer kicks in.

13
24 DTD Top rope 7m

2m right of 'haemoglobin'. Same 3 carrot anchors. Marked and chipped starting hold. Straight up from start hold. boost up to tiny finger pocket and friction balancing on blankness.

14
22 Disparity Top rope 7m

3m Right of 'DTD'. Straight up the from the areate off the block and continue onto the slab

15
18 Normal Eyes Trad 9m

Same Start as 'Disparity', but traverse right along the break then up the left corner next to 'C'.

16
17 * Moist crack Trad 15m

Up the right corner above the seepage. Sandy natural anchors. Toprope by slinging off rock features on top.

17
16 Flagfall Trad 9m

6m right of . Up easy right and head toward the manky BR. Has a triple bolt belay with one manky bolt

East Wall

The wall facing the ocean - the base is often swept with waves.

18
20 * Solidarity Trad 10m

The obvious thin black flake around the corner from the previous routes. The base is often wave-washed.

19
23 Barknuckles Trad 10m
20
M2 Pete's Effort Aid 12m

10m right of 'B', below even bigger roof crack. Set a belay off 2 good BBs (and maybe a cam or two) on the small ledge under the crack. Out the roof then up the garbage choked crack above (take care of broken glass and rusty cans). Natural belay.

FA: Peter Nolan, 1998

Survey Marker Walls

The following climbs are best accessed by abseiling in from in front of the white concrete survey marker on the top of the cliff (hard to miss).

Note: do not use the survey marker in your anchor - these types of marker are not usually attached to the underlying rock (they simply rest on it under their own weight), and using it in an anchor is a liability concern for the local council.

21
11 D Sport 13m
22
16 Pigeon Shit Trad 17m
23
17 Dusty Condom Trad 17m
24
25 Dead Man's Fingers Sport 15m, 5

FA: Trevor Cooper-Williams, 1994

25
22 * Steep Sport 10m, 2

As the name suggests, it is steep!

Start: At the large ringbolt in the rock platform on the northern side of a small bay. ~50m south of the abseil.

FA: Trevor Cooper-Williams, 1994

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20 Heat Seeker Unknown 17m
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15 E Sport 13m

The route directly below the abseil. Honeycomb choss and alarmingly projecting bolts.

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23 ** F Sport 13m

The steep arête / prow right of the abseil. Starts left of the prow itself. Some of the bolts (especially in the initial section) are hard to see.

29
21 G Sport 15m

Bowling Club Wall

The following routes are chipped into the orange wall in front of the bowling club. There's a fisherman's descent at the northern end of the wall.They are most easily visible from the bottom. Top rope only. Belay off the green logs at the back of the rock platform (take care).

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21 H Top rope 15m

Left Most Line

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18 I Top rope 15m

Middle Line

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18 J Top rope 15m

Right most line

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