Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

One of Sydney's smaller and less-intrepid sea cliffs, 'Clovelly' has a range of (often-steep)climbing. The bolts are generally good (by sea-cliff standards) and the rock is not too friable.

© (willmonks)

Approach

On the northern side of 'Clovelly' Beach, beneath Burrows Park. Park in Ocean St, opposite the park, or catch a 339 or 340 bus to the beach and walk up the hill. There is a descent gully at the southern end of the crag (near the northern point of 'Clovelly' Bay), however it is hard to get to the northern climbs, such as 'Steep', from here when the sea is rough or the tide is high. The easiset approch for these climbs is to abseil of the large white survey marker. This is just visible from the road, on the far (sea) side of Burrows Park.

© (willmonks)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route

Project Block

The following two routes are on the isolated block, approximately 100m south of the gully containing Sarah and Peter. Retrobolted 2001

There is good bouldering / top-roping on the grey wall to the right.

1
21 Lets Go Retro / A Sport 9m, 4

Start at the left of the block climb along the lip to the arete and then up the face to DRB lower off

2
21 Magic Rings / B Sport 9m, 4

Starts at the right side of the arete and continues along the lip then up the the DRB lower off shared with LGR

Orange Slab

The following routes are on the orange slab on the left in the gully

3
17 Orange Slab 1 Top rope 6m

First line after the arete on the left. Blast up to the break if you're tall or move delicate up the slab

4
16 Orange Slab 2 Top rope 6m

To the right of the black streak

5
17 Orange Slab 3 Top rope 6m

Start in the hole and continue up the right side of the streak

6
17 Orange Slab 4 Top rope 6m

Start in the hole and continue up the right side of the streak

7
15 Orange Slab 5 Top rope 6m

Between 6 and 4, right of the black streak

8
16 Orange Slab 6 Top rope 6m

Last Climb on the slab, Bulge on the arete is out

South Facing Wall

The following 6 routes are located on the northern side of the gully dropping down from Burrows Park, after the orange slab

9
8 Sarah Top rope 8m

Up the corner with a hard start with large gear. triple BR belay

10
16 Peter Top rope 7m

Up the flake 1m right of Sarah. Then through the chossy roof with a hard snady topout. Triple BR belay

11
23 DTD Top rope 7m

1 meter right of Peter. Marked and chipped starting hold. 5m roof boulder directly underneath

12
22 Disparity Top rope 7m

3m Right of DTD. Straight up the from the areate off the block and continue onto the slab

13
18 Normal Eyes Trad 9m

Same Start as Disparity, but traverse right anong the break then up the left corner next to C

14
16 C Trad 15m

Up the right corner above the seepage. Sandy and natural anchors.

15
16 Flagfall Trad 9m

6m right of . Up easy right and head toward the manky BR. Has a triple bolt belay with one manky bolt

East Side

The following 10 routes are best accessed by abseiling in from in front of the white survey marker.

16
20 ** Solidarity Trad 10m

The obvious thin black flake around the corner from the previous routes. The base is often wave-washed.

17
23 Barknuckles Trad 10m
18
M2 Pete's Effort Aid 12m

10m right of B, below even bigger roof crack. Set a belay off 2 good BBs (and maybe a cam or two) on the small ledge under the crack. Out the roof then up the garbage choked crack above (take care of broken glass and rusty cans). Natural belay.

FA: Peter Nolan, 1998

Survey Marker Walls

The following climbs are best accessed by abseiling off the white concrete survey marker on the top of the cliff ( hard to miss)

19
11 D Sport 13m
20
16 Pigeon Shit Trad 17m
21
17 Dusty Condom Trad 17m
22
25 * Dead Man's Fingers Sport 15m, 5

FA: Trevor Cooper-Williams, 1994

23
22 * Steep Sport 10m, 2

As the name suggests, it is steep!

Start: At the large ringbolt in the rock platform on the northern side of a small bay. ~50m south of the survey marker abseil.

FA: Trevor Cooper-Williams, 1994

24
20 Heat Seeker Unknown 17m
25
15 E Sport 13m
26
23 ** F Sport 13m
27
21 G Sport 15m

Bowling Club Wall

The following two routes are chipped into the orange wall in front of the bowling club. There's a fisherman's descent to the north.

28
21 H Top rope 15m

Right Most Line

29
18 I Top rope 15m

Middle Line

30
18 J Top rope 15m

Right most line

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.