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Description

One of Sydney's smaller and less-intrepid sea cliffs, Clovelly has a range of (often-steep) climbing. The bolts are generally good (by sea-cliff standards) and the rock is not too friable.

© (willmonks)

Approach

On the northern side of Clovelly Beach, beneath Burrows Park. Park in Ocean St, opposite the park, or catch a 339 or 340 bus to the beach and walk up the hill. There is a descent gully at the southern end of the crag near the northern point of Clovelly Bay, marked Shark Point on the Google map. Since it is hard to get to the northern climbs, such as 'Steep', from here when the sea is rough or the tide is high, the easiest approach for these climbs is to abseil in from in front of the large white survey marker. This is just visible from the road, on the far (sea) side of Burrows Park.

© (willmonks)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The following two routes are on the isolated overhanging block that projects out from the cliff line, approximately 100m south of the 'Orange Slab' and 'South Facing Wall'. The two climbs on this block were retrobolted in 2001.

Start at the left of the block, traverse along the balancy lip to the arete and then around the corner and up the face to DRB lower off. Same anchors as magic rings. Be aware of rope drag.

Starts at the right side of the block and traverses left along the lip then up to the DRB lower off shared with 'Lets Go Retro'.

The aesthetic pocketed grey wall to the right of the 'Projecting Block'. Offers a variety of nice boulder problems / micro-top-ropes (3 double BBs on top), and a great traverse.

Traverse the grey wall left to right.

The following routes are on the orange slab with great rock on the left side (facing out) of the walkdown gully. The routes are pretty indistinct - the wall can really be climbed just about anywhere. There are various stainless carrots at the top, strangely placed 1-3m back from the edge, so bring several long slings for top roping.

First line after the arete on the left. Blast up to the break if you're tall or move delicately up the slab.

To the left of the black streak

Start in the hole and continue up the left side of the streak.

Start in the hole and continue up the right side of the streak.

Between 6 and 4, right of the black streak

Last climb on the right of the slab, bulge on the arete is out.

The following 6 routes are located on the taller walls that are a continuation of the 'Orange Slab'.

Up the corner using medium to large gear. Stainless carrot belay 3m back from top.

Start 1m right of 'Sarah'. Up the flake then through the chossy roof with a hard sandy topout. Triple BR belay

Start 1m right of 'Peter'. The chipped boulder problem is under this route. Start with your hands in the break. Punk up and pull on blood-blister crimps up to sloped hold and top through the honeycomb roof. Balancy. Easier on the tall, rude to the short. You can do a fun boulder / toprope combo too by staying on lax rope and pads as you boulder from under the chipped cave then out and up the wall as your belayer kicks in. Three carrot anchors shared with 'DTD'.

Start 2m right of 'Haemoglobin' at chipped hold marked 'DTD'. Straight up from start hold, boost up to tiny finger pocket and friction balancing on blankness. Three carrot anchors shared with 'Haemoglobin'.

Start 3m Right of 'DTD'. Straight up the from the arete off the block and continue onto the slab.

Same start as 'Disparity', but traverse right along the break then up the left corner next to 'C'.

Up the right corner above the seepage. Sandy natural anchors. Toprope by slinging off rock features on top.

6m right of 'Moist crack'. Up easy right and head toward the manky BR. Has a triple bolt belay with one manky bolt

The wall facing the ocean - the base is often swept with waves.

The obvious thin black flake around the corner from the previous routes. The base is often wave-washed.

"A 1970s-style five metre hand-crack ceiling about 50-80m north of 'Solidarity'. BB and Friend on small ledge. Out across roof, problematic exit, then more easily to top." [Sydney and the Sea Cliffs, 1991]

10m right of 'B', below even bigger roof crack. Set a belay off 2 good BBs (and maybe a cam or two) on the small ledge under the crack. Out the roof then up the garbage choked crack above (take care of broken glass and rusty cans). Natural belay.

FA: Peter Nolan, 1998

The following climbs are best accessed by abseiling in from in front of the white concrete survey marker on the top of the cliff (hard to miss).

Note: do not use the survey marker in your anchor - these types of marker are not usually attached to the underlying rock (they simply rest on it under their own weight), and using it in an anchor is a liability concern for the local council.

FA: Trevor Cooper-Williams, 1994

As the name suggests, it is steep!

Start: At the large ringbolt in the rock platform on the northern side of a small bay. ~50m south of the abseil.

FA: Trevor Cooper-Williams, 1994

The route directly below the abseil. Honeycomb choss and alarmingly projecting bolts.

The steep arête / prow right of the abseil. Starts left of the prow itself. Some of the bolts (especially in the initial section) are hard to see.

The following routes are chipped into the orange wall in front of the bowling club. There's a fisherman's descent at the northern end of the wall.They are most easily visible from the bottom. Top rope only. Belay off the green logs at the back of the rock platform (take care).

Left Most Line

Middle Line

Right most line

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